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Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture最新文献

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New Fashion Identity and the State in China: A Decolonial Interpretation 中国的新时尚认同与国家:一个非殖民化的解读
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2023-01-27 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2023.2166205
C. Fu
{"title":"New Fashion Identity and the State in China: A Decolonial Interpretation","authors":"C. Fu","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2023.2166205","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2023.2166205","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study explores the intersections between state and fashion in China by examining the facilitation of a new fashion identity in a fashion edutainment program produced by national television. It argues that the state-sponsored (re)appraisal of traditional sartorial esthetics from which a decolonized fashion identity is expected to evolve is intimately interweaved with the state’s metanarrative of national revival. The study interprets the reversion back to native historical traditions to counter and offer an alternative to Western cultural episteme as an inherently decolonial effort. With an emancipated fashion identity, the state aims to reclaim cultural authorship from the dictates of colonialism and orientalism. The paper examines how sartorial nationalism is given new expressions and highlights the question of authenticity working within state-prescribed parameters. The desire for international recognition however undermines the decoloniality of this undertaking.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"581 - 602"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48798268","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Lasting Bonds: Understanding Wearer-Clothing Relationships through Interpersonal Love-Theory 持久的纽带:通过人际爱情理论理解穿着者与服装的关系
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2023-01-26 DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706
Ana Neto, J. Ferreira
{"title":"Lasting Bonds: Understanding Wearer-Clothing Relationships through Interpersonal Love-Theory","authors":"Ana Neto, J. Ferreira","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41693549","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Artful Decoloniality: The Politics of Fashion as Art in 20th and 21st Century Vietnam 巧妙的去殖民化:20世纪和21世纪越南的时尚政治艺术
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2023-01-09 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2109690
M. Nguyen, Ann Marie Leshkowich
{"title":"Artful Decoloniality: The Politics of Fashion as Art in 20th and 21st Century Vietnam","authors":"M. Nguyen, Ann Marie Leshkowich","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2109690","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2109690","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Drawing on two case studies of designers whose work centered on the Vietnamese aó dài, one from the 1930s and the other the 2010s–2020s, this article considers how desires to construe fashion as art and the designer as fine artist have been implicated in transnational circuits of symbolic and material value, as well as colonial and postcolonial power relations. While decolonial scholarship on fashion has called for attention to diverse dress practices that are external to modernity and coloniality, this article argues that artist-designers’ demands for recognition of Vietnamese dress within universalizing systems of fashion and art can also constitute a decolonial move because they highlight the plurality at the heart of fashion’s aesthetic and material regime. At the same time, the designers’ creative processes often grapple with internalized discourses of essentialized Vietnamese identities that have emerged within a patriarchal context and have tended to deploy the clothed bodies of women. In simultaneously positioning their fashion as art and asserting an essentialized national identity, Vietnamese designers in different temporal contexts have both constituted and challenged the ideological and material contours of the raced, gendered, and classed hierarchies of modernity, coloniality, and fashion.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"355 - 381"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41756597","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Letter from the Editors 编辑的信
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2175963
Jonathan C. Kaplan, P. McNeil
{"title":"Letter from the Editors","authors":"Jonathan C. Kaplan, P. McNeil","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2175963","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2175963","url":null,"abstract":"The editorial introduces a Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, ‘Fashion in the Age of AIDS’. Outlining the devastating impact of the emergence of Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome (AIDS) from the 1980s in the West on mainly gay men and minorities, the editors provide their rationale and introduce the contributors. As well as its effects on the fashion and styling industries, creating a ‘lost’ or ‘missing’ generation, AIDS and its rhetoric saw an array of new styles and looks developed by and for LGBTQI peoples in response to the crisis. Authors cover areas as diverse as fashion and music, fashion and intersectional homophobia, the fashion industry’s response to AIDS, ‘passing’ as straight, and fashion and body modification.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"1 - 3"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44341755","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century 物质生活:18世纪的女性制造者与消费文化
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-12-16 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151700
Kate Strasdin
{"title":"Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century","authors":"Kate Strasdin","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151700","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151700","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"317 - 321"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-12-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43160396","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Samlingen 该系列
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-12-16 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2155291
Johanna Zanon
{"title":"Samlingen","authors":"Johanna Zanon","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2155291","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2155291","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"473 - 482"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-12-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48107707","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fashion|Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion Fashion|Sense:论哲学与时尚
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-11-30 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151117
Jeffrey DeShell
{"title":"Fashion|Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion","authors":"Jeffrey DeShell","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151117","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151117","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"311 - 316"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45412717","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Elvis: Direct from Graceland 猫王:从雅园直接过来
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-11-11 DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2022.2137292
Paola Di Trocchio
{"title":"Elvis: Direct from Graceland","authors":"Paola Di Trocchio","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2022.2137292","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2022.2137292","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"295 - 303"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46440146","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Letter from the Editor 编辑来信
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-11-10 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2154937
V. Steele
{"title":"Letter from the Editor","authors":"V. Steele","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2154937","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2154937","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"921 - 924"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44539391","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Undercover—From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19 低调——从必要到奢华：新冠肺炎期间面部遮盖物的演变
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-10-25 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2129138
Joshua M. Bluteau
{"title":"Undercover—From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19","authors":"Joshua M. Bluteau","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2129138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2129138","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"157 - 164"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41510087","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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