TEXTILE PROGRESS最新文献

{"title":"Wool: applications, insect-proofing treatments and the preparation of wool powder","authors":"M. Essaket, Ilham Allam, A. Boukhriss, Mohamed Tahiri, A. El Maliki, I. Essaket, Omar Cherkaoui","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2023.2274730","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2023.2274730","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract For thousands of years, wool has been a valuable fibre for humans. Today, wool remains an essential fibre in the textile industry and is suitable for a wide range of applications because of its unique properties and versatility. In addition, wool is renewable and biodegradable making it a sustainable choice for technical textiles. However, wool is susceptible to moth damage. This is caused by the moth larvae that feed on the keratin protein present in wool fibres. Therefore, mothproofing methods are necessary to protect wool products. This review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of wool and its different applications. Wool’s chemical composition and structure are discussed in addition to its unique properties and world production. This is followed by a section that highlights the different applications of wool ranging from apparel to technical textiles as well as the numerous insect-proofing treatments of wool. A growing interest in wool powder applications has led researchers to explore various methods for its preparation. In this context, the review reports on developments in novel and emergent mechanical methods of preparing wool powder and its potential applications.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"26 1","pages":"165 - 199"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139324794","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmeto-textiles","authors":"M. Singh, Annika Singh, Holly Morris","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2023.2258675","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2023.2258675","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Cosmeto-textiles are textiles that aim to enrich and address aspects of modern-day life, such as slimming by cellulite reduction, skin moisture management, energising the human body, protection from ultraviolet radiation, providing pleasant fragrance or providing anti-ageing-appearance properties. To achieve the intended outcomes, various compounds of animal, mineral, and plant origin are utilised in cosmeto-textiles and incorporated into the textile product. Cosmetic functionality can be incorporated into textiles by modifying the fibre by introducing a functional moiety into the fibre’s polymer chain, or by doping the polymer with additives before fibre extrusion, by functionalising the yarns, or by coating the fabrics or garments for example by grafting or lamination. This is commonly undertaken by the use of microencapsulation or using cyclodextrin as a cage material. The cosmeto-textiles market is expanding globally. Whilst characterisation of cosmeto-textiles has been challenging, the Europeans have taken the lead in classifying and standardising the testing of cosmetic effects of cosmeto-textiles in the same manner that cosmetic items are tested. Cosmeto-textiles may be characterised by the chemical attributes they have or by the function they undertake. Whilst the field of cosmeto-textiles remains at an embryological stage, the joint efforts of cosmetic scientists, textile engineers, biochemists, dermatologists, and life scientists are allowing for standardisation of testing and an expansion in products that can be taken through to market. This issue of Textile Progress aims to summarise the field as it currently stands.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"46 1","pages":"109 - 163"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139363905","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Smart textiles","authors":"Md Raihan Hossain, Md Raju Ahmed, Md Shamim Alam","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2023.2250651","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2023.2250651","url":null,"abstract":"AbstractSmart textiles, also known as electronic textiles or e-textiles, are advanced materials that merge traditional textile structures with integrated electronic components and technologies. These textiles offer enhanced functionality and capabilities by incorporating sensors, actuators, power sources, processing units, and communication systems. They enable interaction with the environment and other devices, going beyond the capabilities of traditional textiles. This paper overviews smart textiles and their applications in various sectors such as sportswear, industry, automotive, entertainment, military, public sector, healthcare, and safety domains. It also highlights recent advancements in the field. The focus is wearable fabric-based personal systems, including fitness monitoring, safety, security, and promoting a healthy lifestyle. Integrating smart textiles into garments and accessories can revolutionise industries and improve the quality of life by offering personalised and innovative solutions.Keywords: Health care and safetyinteractive textilesnanotechnologysportswearsmart textiles Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"44 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135717914","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Leather-like materials by cellular agriculture","authors":"Dana Wilson, O. Tsigkou, L. Bosworth, Celina Jones","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2023.2188835","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2023.2188835","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Leather, a popular material in a wide array of industries, is traditionally sourced from animal hides. The scale of production has increased over time, leading to ever-greater concerns about the environmental, ethical and health impacts of leather manufacture. The substantial resources required, plus the pollution and waste generated, pose serious doubts over the sustainability of existing production systems and their ability to meet the increasing demand for leather-like materials. To address these issues, alternatives to leather have been developed. Up to now though, these materials have been unable to perform as well as genuine leather, either mechanically, aesthetically or texturally. Some of the polymer-based alternatives may even be more harmful to the environment than leather itself. The need for a more-suitable leather substitute has coincided with the emergence of cellular agriculture technologies. In the future, it is hoped that leather-like materials may be engineered from collagen created by cellular agriculture, instead of relying upon animal slaughter. Such a material could offer great design, sustainability, environmental and ethical benefits over real leather. Whilst there is significant potential, more investment in research and development is needed before the technology can be considered sufficiently well developed. So far, tissue-engineering techniques applied from clinical fields have proven too costly and inefficient for scaling up, but work has already commenced to identify sources of collagen and cell growth media that are less animal-dependent and not so expensive. Even so, more-efficient methods of controlling the collagen network structure still need to be created. The new round of research is therefore expected to focus upon increasing cell-culture efficiency using, for example, specialised bioreactors.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"55 1","pages":"1 - 45"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41582008","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Product development, fashion buying and merchandising","authors":"R. Parker-Strak, R. Boardman, L. Barnes, Stephen A. Doyle, R. Studd","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2023.2182062","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2023.2182062","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This issue of Textile Progress provides a critical literature review and reflection relating to academic research in the field of fashion buying and merchandising, with a specific focus on the fashion product development process. As the topic has not been reviewed before in Textile Progress, the paper follows the process of fashion product development, a key task that forms one of the many responsibilities of fashion buyers and merchandisers and explores the literature from its origins to the present day, capturing the significant elements that have changed and shaped the process over time. Establishing the challenges and changes in contemporary fashion retailing enables the development of an understanding of how and why these fundamental factors impact not only the process of getting products from idea to concept, but also the roles and responsibilities of the buyers and merchandisers; added to this, the review provides a critical overview of the Buying Cycle. The review further explores the external and internal components and participants influencing the fashion product development process, thereby updating what can be found in the existing product development literature to reflect the current state-of-play in the industry. By illustrating and reviewing the process models of new product development and fashion product development from their original and early forms to the present day, the review establishes the links, connections, and differences across both the more-general and specific areas of research. Subsequently, there is a review of the roles and responsibilities of the fashion buyer and merchandiser, alongside a discussion of how the developments, advancements and transformation of the industry have changed the nature of the involvement of these crucial personnel in the fashion product development process over time. This aspect of the review provides a base upon which to analyse the contemporary fashion-retail buying cycle, establishing its early connection to organisational decision-making process models and the implications and challenges that product assortment planning, development, and retailing pose on the cycle. The last two chapters of this review are dedicated to two crucial areas of the contemporary fashion industry, namely sustainability and technology and address how they have become key drivers in determining the roles of the fashion buyer and merchandiser and how the fashion product development process is now addressed.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"54 1","pages":"247 - 403"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43969949","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Graphene in wearable textile sensor devices for healthcare","authors":"Md Raju Ahmed, Samantha Newby, W. Mirihanage, P. Potluri, A. Fernando","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2022.2128015","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2022.2128015","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Current advances in flexible, textile wearable device manufacturing are being made through a new generation of materials and nanotechnology. These recent advances make integrating functional sensors into textiles easier and allow for widespread application, including healthcare. Through improving the materials and integration techniques used, wearable sensors can be used to create personalised healthcare products that can monitor vital physical and biological signals. One material that is leading the way for future healthcare systems is graphene. Graphene has superior electrical and thermal conductivity, high chemical stability, and extreme mechanical properties. It also offers a variety of hybrid types that are useful when designing cost-effective and scalable electronic devices for textile applications. This review will outline how graphene and textile-based materials are being used to manufacture wearable health-monitoring devices as well as the challenges and opportunities of graphene and textile-based materials.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"54 1","pages":"201 - 245"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2022-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41796258","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Formulation of conductive inks printable on textiles for electronic applications: a review","authors":"Abdelkrim Boumegnane, A. Nadi, C. Cochrane, F. Boussu, O. Cherkaoui, M. Tahiri","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2021.2094135","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2021.2094135","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Printed electronics (PE) is one of the most dynamic technologies in the world. It proposes low-cost electronic network production in flexible substrates by numerous printing techniques, (screen printing, gravure, offset, flexographic, and inkjet printing), used in various industries. In PE, ink pigments are replaced by metallic particles or precursors that transmit electrical conductivity to the printed patterns such as carbon, polymers and conductive pigments. Conductive inks play an important role in printed electronics, and despite the number of conductive ink types available on the market, there are still issues to be addressed. Some of these restrictions include the use of toxic chemical reagents and solvents and complicated manufacturing protocols, which often make the industrialization of conductive inks an even more distant goal. In particular, conductive inks based on silver nanoparticles, Graphene and PEDOT:PSS are widely studied thanks to their high electrical conductivity. On the other hand, there is still work to be done to show the interest of inks based on phthalocyanine pigments, in particular copper phthalocyanine. Nevertheless, problems related to stability, dispersion and annealing temperature often limit the application of these four types of fillers. In this review, we present general information on available conductive fillers used for the formulation of conductive inks, focusing on metallic particles, carbon fillers, pigments and polymers. The influence and technical requirements of the regularly used printing techniques, as well as the post-processing treatments to achieve the targeted performance in the obtained inks have been discussed. In addition, the surface characteristics of the various types of extensible and flexible substrates used in portable electronics are described. Moreover, some types of printed flexible electronic components as well as notable applications of electronic textiles in various sectors are exhibited. Next, the major challenges for the manufacturing of printed flexible electronics and recommendations for future research are discussed in this review","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"54 1","pages":"103 - 200"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41481505","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Restricted substances for textiles","authors":"A. Patra, Siva Rama Kumar Pariti","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2022.2101302","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2022.2101302","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Awareness of the harmful effects of chemical substances is gradually increasing and scientific investigations have time and again revealed the negative influences of the chemicals conventionally used. This has led to restricting the use of certain chemicals and dyes in textile wet treatments. Globally there has been an acceptance of this by branding agencies and retailers. Government organisations have also supported these restrictions, and curtailment in such chemical usage has now become the norm throughout the textile supply chain. This issue of Textile Progress reviews the chronological evolution of the restrictions leading to the concepts of RSL (Restricted Substances List) and MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) now widely followed. The listing of harmful chemicals under Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) is also discussed. The major chemicals or groups of chemicals facing restriction are dealt with in detail, covering their usage, hazards, sources, chemistry and possible substitutes (if any). Examples such as the alkyl phenols and alkyl phenol ethoxylates used for decades as detergents and wetting agents in preparatory processes, dyeing and printing were found to be potential hormone disruptors and very toxic to aquatic life, and substitutes have been put in place. Substances such as azo-amines, chlorophenols, formaldehyde, brominated flame retardants, heavy metals and fluorochemicals also have their share of adverse effects on human health and environment and need to be avoided. Studies have shown the presence of phthalates in routinely-used chemicals which can be traced back to the manufacturing process itself and other hazardous chemicals such as bisphenols, chloroparaffins, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, quinoline, VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds), biocides and UV absorbers have also figured in discussions. Comprehensive testing for the presence of the various restricted substances is essential but anomalies can arise.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"54 1","pages":"1 - 101"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43119456","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"UHMWPE textiles and composites","authors":"Ashraf Nawaz Khan, M. Gupta, P. Mahajan, A. Das, R. Alagirusamy","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2022.2087400","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2022.2087400","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) has the potential to make a significant contribution to the efforts currently being made to help to protect the environment by reducing carbon emissions through the substitution of heavy conventional materials with lightweight polymeric materials. Used on its own, UHMWPE also offers complete recyclability with thermoplastic matrices. UHMWPE fibre-based composites (both thermoplastic and thermoset) offer a wide range of applications in various fields such as military protective suits, automotive, aerospace, electronics hardware, tribological application, and biomaterial implants, and this issue of Textile Progress explores the behaviour of UHMWPE with different matrix systems for various purposes. UHMWPE is widely used in the development of ballistic protective armours. Apart from applications where impact resistance is a key requirement, UHMWPE-based composites are currently being employed in the fields such as biomedical implants, anti-friction systems, dielectric and acoustic applications, and other structural fields; the UHMWPE should be extractable from the thermoplastic types and be able to be recycled. The various manufacturing techniques employed in the preparation of UHMWPE and its composites are discussed as are improvements aimed at eradicating existing processing issues associated with UHMWPE.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"53 1","pages":"183 - 335"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42700837","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fragmented fibre (including microplastic) pollution from textiles","authors":"Alma V Palacios-Marín, M. Tausif","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2022.2066913","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2022.2066913","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The threat of microplastic (MP) pollution to our ecosystem is well established. The presence of natural, regenerated, and synthetic fragmented fibres (FF) and their abundance in terrestrial and aquatic environments has been extensively reported. All textiles release FF during their lifecycle, not limited to plastics, which find their way to the environment through different dispersal pathways. Beyond the nature of the polymer, the FF can also can be a carrier of hazardous chemicals. The ubiquitous nature of MPs (and FF) has widely placed them as one of the most enduring and pervasive anthropogenic pollutants. This review is focused on FFs generated and released from textiles during wet (predominantly laundering) and dry exposure conditions. A summary and critical analysis of the current methods to generate, collect, measure, and characterise FF from textile laundry effluent is presented. The impact of key parameters on the release of FF is summarised; including washing equipment/conditions, filtration procedures, characterisation techniques, and the effect of textile materials and structure. The results from key publications are tabulated for direct comparisons, this includes estimated number of FF released per washing cycle and length distribution profile. Though the wet route of release has gained more attention, the release through dry routes is also significant. Hence, a detailed overview of the collection and characterisation of FF from dry routes (atmospheric deposition and textile abrasion) was important. Finally, a comprehensive overview of latest research and industrially-applied mitigation strategies to limit the release of FF from textile sources during laundry is included. The impact of MPs (and FF) is briefly outlined covering the environment, human health and degradation. Improved plastics with reduced environmental impact, plastic recycling and reduced consumption are vital. Still, the release of FFs from textiles remains a challenge since their production is unintentional.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"53 1","pages":"123 - 182"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43026267","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}