TEXTILE PROGRESS最新文献

{"title":"Upcycling textile wastes: challenges and innovations","authors":"Zunjarrao Kamble, B. Behera","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2021.1986965","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2021.1986965","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Food, shelter and clothing are three basic necessities of life. Textiles are necessary for human beings to cover and protect the body from different weather conditions. In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, furnishing, window shades, towels, table covers, bed sheets, handkerchiefs, cleaning devices and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as tents, flags, nets, kites, sails, parachutes and filtering. Technical textiles are used for industrial purposes – for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants, personal protective equipment and clothing, wound care and compression), geotextiles (stabilisation; reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles, protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire-retardant clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests), packaging and for making advanced materials like composites. In the case of apparel, ‘fast fashion’ has led to increased consumption of textiles and thereby increased textile waste, which poses a great challenge to today’s world in terms of unsustainable disposal. Textile waste has also become a greater threat to modern society mainly because of constant growth in the production and consumption of non-biodegradable synthetic fibres. Unless adequately treated, textile wastes from hospitals may carry hazardous pathogens whilst many fashion clothing items contain non-bio-degradable chemicals which can create havoc in the environment following their disposal, so the recycling of waste textiles has grown in importance. Many studies have shown that much of what would otherwise become waste textiles could be successfully upcycled to produce value-added products. However, the true potential of waste textiles is not yet realized due to many reasons, such as the lack of an adequate textile waste management system, the complexity of the required treatment of some types of textile materials (fibre blends or mixed-fibre textiles) and poor organisation and control over supply chains. This issue of Textile Progress reports on research into the generation of textile waste, its detailed classification, the global textile market, and the environmental impacts of waste textiles. The various challenges in textile waste management and the application of techniques of upcycling waste textiles are critically examined and ways of utilising waste textiles to produce upcycled products are explored.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"53 1","pages":"65 - 122"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2021-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48530696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Acoustic behaviour of textile structures","authors":"P. Paul, R. Mishra, B. Behera","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2021.1986325","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2021.1986325","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Recent history has witnessed substantial growth in public concern related to noise pollution due to industrial progress. As much as this situation imposes a burden on textile producers, it also opens a new battlefield against conventional acoustic materials, where textiles can prevail. Conventional acoustic materials are in the line of fire due to their adverse effects on the ecosystem as well as on human health. This situation can offer a business advantage to textile producers, provided that the damage inflicted on the environment throughout the whole life cycle of the textile product is minimised and the functional properties are improved. A lot of research has been done about textiles for controlling noise pollution in the last forty years; there is still a lack of a systematic and holistic approach to those investigations. The challenge lies in attaining desired sound levels while simultaneously maintaining or enhancing the audio environment. A scientific approach to develop textile based acoustic materials/structures is deeply desired. Desirable features of acoustic materials in terms of ecology and economy must be explored, such as recyclability, light weight, and cost effectiveness. Design is a challenging task because varying material types together with acoustic textiles can be used simultaneously in different shapes, thicknesses, sequences, perforation, and groove properties. As the sound absorbers are composed of multiple layers of different materials, accurate modelling of the acoustical behaviour is often difficult. We also need systematic findings in acoustic performance of unidirectional textile structures, woven two-dimensional structures, nonwoven structures and stacked structures. There are unexplored areas in the study of suitable three-dimensional woven structures, whether orthogonal, angle interlock or honeycomb structure, and evaluation of their acoustic performance. The combination and sequence of different textile structures need to be ascertained for achieving the required acoustic performance. The studies on 3D spacer fabrics for acoustic insulation are still in the initial phase and therefore the emphasis in all these studies is primarily to understand the role of the face and back layer’s density, air permeability through the spacer structure and thickness of the spacer fabric.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"53 1","pages":"1 - 64"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43050931","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"3D printing technology for textiles and fashion","authors":"Tanvir Mahady Dip, Ayesha Siddika Emu, Md Nafiul Hassan Nafiz, Puja Kundu, Hasnatur Rahman Rakhi, Abdullah Sayam, Md Akhtarujjman, Mohammad Shoaib, Md Shakil Ahmed, Swimi Tabassum Ushno, Abdullah Ibn Asheque, Enamul Hasnat, M. A. Uddin, A. Sayem","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2021.1978223","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2021.1978223","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract 3D printing (3DP) is one of the modern approaches in the field of manufacturing. Although this process has been known for a fair amount of time, only the more-recent developments have revealed its potential for applications in different manufacturing sectors. Textiles, one of the basic human requirements, does more than just fulfilling the fundamental necessity of covering the body. Integrating 3DP technology in textiles has broadened the horizon of the textile world. This review explores the historical background as well as state-of-the-art developments in 3DP related to textiles and fashion. It discusses basic ideas about fundamental textile substrates, various 3DP technologies related to textiles, different printing devices and tools, materials used as print inks, direct printing of 3D objects on various textile substrates, fabrication techniques of 3D printed textile structures, different process parameters and their impacts, tests and standards, benefits and limitations. It also highlights the future for further implementation of 3DP technology in the textile industry. Overall, this issue of Textile Progress attempts to ascertain the potential of 3DP which, despite having some drawbacks, could enrich the outputs of the textile and fashion industry and motivate future designers and scientists to engage in its further exploration.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"52 1","pages":"167 - 260"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43881127","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Introduction","authors":"A. Schwarz, L. Van Langenhove, Philippe Guermonprez, Denis Deguillemont","doi":"10.1201/9781003072898-2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1201/9781003072898-2","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46953352","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Heat, moisture and air transport through clothing textiles","authors":"L. Maduna, A. Patnaik","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2021.1955524","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2021.1955524","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The body generates sweat and heat that must be removed from the surface of the skin to the outside environment in order to maintain body temperature. The transfer of sweat, heat and air through the fabric is important for the wearer’s comfort. The fabric transports moisture by absorption or wicking processes. Moisture is absorbed by the fabric and when it evaporates it cools the body. Wicking occurs when moisture is transported in between the pores of the fabrics or by capillary action in yarns. Heat transfer involves conduction, convection and radiation and because air movement by convection facilitates the evaporation of sweat, it can make a substantial contribution to causing the body temperature to decrease. Clothing impairs the transfer of heat and moisture from the skin surface to the external environment. Restricting heat transfer to the external environment helps to keep the wearer warm but excessive accumulation of moisture causes clothing to stick to the skin, while the accumulation of heat causes heat stress making the wearer feel uncomfortable. Moisture, heat and air transmission are affected by fibres, fabrics and finishing properties and hydrophilic fibres absorb more moisture than lipophilic fibres. Rapid transportation of sweat and heat helps the body to cool down and the wearer to feel comfortable but protective clothing tends to have lower moisture, heat and air transmission and as a result the accumulation of moisture and heat makes them uncomfortable to wear. Traditional methods of evaluating the effects of moisture, heat and air transmission by clothing use bench-top tests on flat fabric, however, the more-recent use of manikins enables consideration to be taken of body shape as well as fit of the garments.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"52 1","pages":"129 - 166"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43900060","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wearable electronic textiles","authors":"D. Tyler, Jane Wood, T. Sabir, Chloe McDonnell, A. Sayem, N. Whittaker","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2020.1840151","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2020.1840151","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Whilst the bulk of products classified as wearable technologies are watch-like bands that are worn on arms and legs, there is growing interest not only in garments that incorporate sensors and actuators, but also in sensors and actuators that are textile-based. The vision is for information-gathering garments where the electronic components are both inconspicuous and comfortable, and where the data gathered is integrated into a broader information-rich infrastructure. Fundamental to realising this goal is the extensive use of smart materials and conductive textiles, which are here reviewed. Advances in textile-based sensors and actuators are documented, as are also developments in the generation and storage of electrical power. Also addressed are the protocols and available information technologies that are relevant for integrating these products within an Internet of Things (IoT) framework. The procedures and practices for developing apparel products incorporating these technologies are discussed. Some insights into the state-of-the-art are gained from examining commercial products and the reports of interdisciplinary research projects. The conclusion is largely that we are at an early stage of realising the IoT vision, but that prototypes emerging justify an attitude of cautious optimism.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"51 1","pages":"299 - 384"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2020.1840151","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43100462","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Application of the Internet of Things in the textile industry","authors":"H. Manglani, George Wayne Hodge, W. Oxenham","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2020.1763701","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2020.1763701","url":null,"abstract":"The ‘Internet of Things’ (IoT) is at times mythologized and its purpose mistaken, and often people can become confused about what it means, does or aims to achieve; moreover, without a financial ap...","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2020.1763701","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45540296","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Advanced technical textile products","authors":"Matsuo* Tatsuki","doi":"10.1201/9780429187766-1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1201/9780429187766-1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2019-04-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48671416","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Soft body armour","authors":"Unsanhame Mawkhlieng, A. Majumdar","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2019.1692583","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2019.1692583","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract A detailed and timely progress of soft body armour against stab and ballistic impact is presented in this monograph. The classification and the evolution of body armour is briefly presented, demonstrating the change of material choice with time. The energy absorption capacity of soft body armour and the mechanisms by which this energy is absorbed or dissipated are dependent upon various parameters and a detailed review is highlighted to best understand the material and structural influence. Various stab and ballistic resistance standards against which armour is currently evaluated are presented in detail. Additionally, the different techniques used to evaluate the performance of armour, from a single layer high-performance fabric to a full armour panel assembly are explained in depth, focusing on yarn pull-out, dynamic impact and ballistic test. Further, different approaches adapted to improve the impact or ballistic response of a high-performance fabric used for soft armour panels is reported exhaustively, with special attention drawn to the application of natural rubber, shear thickening fluid (STF) and surface modification of fibre. Among these, the use of STF is given greater importance, minutely exploring the mechanism of shear thickening, the factors affecting shear thickening behaviour and the methods adopted to improve the thickening or viscosity of STFs. Furthermore, emphasis is laid upon the failure mechanisms of a single high-performance fabric to low velocity impact and of an armour panel to high velocity impact, both for neat and STF treated structures. Moreover, the effectiveness or applicability of soft body armour is valid only when certain conditions are met, a list of which is concisely outlined. Finally, with new techniques and approaches being explored at research level, a futuristic and revolutionalised concept of soft body armour is anticipated- the application of nanomaterials, the use of smart textiles and the concept of biomimetics in armour design.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"41 6","pages":"139 - 224"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2019-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2019.1692583","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41295588","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Colour forecasting","authors":"T. Cassidy","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2019.1659564","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2019.1659564","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The underlying principles of colour forecasting now have a history spanning a full century. This issue of Textile Progress is somewhat timely as the challenges that industry face now differ from those of the twentieth century, in particular, the increased need to address sustainability and the increased competiveness of the global marketplace. This Textile Progress provides an overview of the historical context drawing out the importance of the role of colour forecasting in the fashion and textile industries. It provides a detailed analysis of the more-recently established and establishing trend forecasting methods with a view to thinking more innovatively about the potential of colour forecasting. It investigates the effects and impact of colour and trend forecasting with a particular focus on the consequences of the process and system on business, on consumers and on the environment. In reviewing the developments in colour forecasting, we begin with the subjective techniques highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the approaches. The more-objective characteristics that have emerged from new developments and new thinking provide a focus on the potential for greater accuracy in colour forecasting. This issue of Textile Progress explains how and why colour forecasting is an essential component of the business of making and selling fashion garments, through merchandising, retailing and fashion marketing, as well as being important in fashion design and product development processes. Developments affecting the design of colour forecasting systems are shown to draw on marketing theory, though without much consideration for the human-business interface, specifically, colour preferences, colour psychology and cultural meanings of colour. The overall aim of this Textile Progress is to assist an understanding of the colour forecasting process and its contribution to the larger trend forecasting system, and to highlight the challenges the colour forecasting sector faces for a twenty-first century fashion-business strategy. Attention is paid to the colour forecasting process and forecasting as a system, including its application in the design process and skills acquisition. The more-recently established trend forecasting methods are critically analysed, as are previously unpublished contributions to knowledge through original sets of primary research data, and finally potential improvements are suggested.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":"51 1","pages":"1 - 137"},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2019-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2019.1659564","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45744033","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}