A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0018
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"On Menus","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0018","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0018","url":null,"abstract":"The closing chapter pulls together the many strands of foodways that continue to define the Eastern Shore of Virginia as a distinct and distinctive terroir. The chapter begins with an African American church menu and turns to a group of award-winning contemporary chefs for their reactions to the listed fare. Every menu is much more than the itemized listing it provides. Menus are invitations to invention through pairings and juxtapositions. They are a literature where individual items speak to the expertise of the cook and the expectations of the diner. Menus are the most optimistic of all literary forms. They are about art and gratification.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124011194","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0016
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"Missing Ingredients","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0016","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter examines how an African American woman born in 1899 to a black mother and white father, taken by the father's family from her mother, and brought up in a white household, negotiated her place in the racially complex society of the Eastern Shore of Virginia. The chapter begins with her recipe collection and moves to her most remembered speciality – yeast rolls. The chapter then explores the place of this bread in contexts of identity, reputation, remembrance, and race.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"96 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133472269","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0012
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"The Wachapreague Fireman’s Carnival Cake Wheel","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0012","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0012","url":null,"abstract":"The Wachapreague Fireman's Carnival is unique only in its details in a place where homecomings of all varieties are occasions for long-standing celebrations. Throughout the Eastern Shore, favorite foods afford communions of remembrance and reminiscence. Where we eat speaks to the idea of terroir grounded in the places where folks share meals and conversation. Where we eat goes beyond experiences of breaking bread and maps and into how we know our place in the world, not just through what we eat, but also how we remember and speak of locale. The literal consumption of place nourishes our understandings of who we are. The power of taste is immersive, a deep plunge into a river of memory and flavor.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"48 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121494789","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0002
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"A Taste for Dumplings","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0002","url":null,"abstract":"Taste is one of those words that covers a lot of territory—and partitions it, too. We think of taste in its physical sense as flavor—the play of sweet, salt, bitter, sour, and savory unique to every ingredient and every dish. Taste in this sense is about bodily sensations. Taste also entails social knowledge. A connoisseur uses specific knowledge about food, wine, art, literature, and just about everything else to render acts of judgment. Taste in this iteration is about discernment and sensibility, and it is very much about creating and policing the borders of community and distinction. We could think of taste as the acts of knowing that lie at the crossroads of consumption and conversation, a posturing about what we eat and why we like it for high intellectual purpose, for example black duck and dumplings.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"104 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132795189","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Figs","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.1163/1573-3912_islam_dum_3791","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1163/1573-3912_islam_dum_3791","url":null,"abstract":"Enormous fig trees reaching the eaves of a two-story house flourished in home gardens the length of the Eastern Shore from the early colonial period onward. Fig culture in the American South offers a conflicted narrative, one that blurs lines between the exotic and the everyday, the fragile and the hardy, slavery and freedom. The chapter explores the history, cultivation, preservation, and culinary uses of the fig through historical narratives, recipes, and oral histories.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123764749","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0011
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"A Taste for Toads","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0011","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0011","url":null,"abstract":"The is chapter explores the natural and culinary history of toads (the fish, not the amphibian) as well as a specialized fishery and invention around a seasonal catch. The toads rise from a “trash” by-catch to a delicacy speaks to evolving sensibilities around cuisine and terroir. A toad is a complicated creature. It tests the boundaries of Leviticus and chart the dangers of gastronomy. The chapter makes extensive use of oral history, natural history, and local foodways.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"115 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116620167","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0006
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"Panfish","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0006","url":null,"abstract":"Panfish on the Eastern Shore of Virginia simply refers to a host of small fish that include spot, croaker, sand mullet, jumping mullet, hogfish, swelling toads, and more. The idea of the panfish relies on four characteristics: size (they fit whole into a skillet), status (they tend to be associated with less desirable fish—often linked to qualities of oiliness or boniness), procurement (although netted, seined, or trapped commercially, panfish are commonly associated with amateur angling), and preparation (largely fried). In essence, panfish, spot in particular, are notable for their everydayness, remarkable only in the moments of their absence. The spot's culinary associations are tightly knit into the history of place. This chapter explores that connection through documentary evidence, oral history, local foodways, and the Chesapeake Bay fishery.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"17 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124004845","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0007
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"A Freezer Full of Marsh Hens","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0007","url":null,"abstract":"Marsh hens (mud hens, sage hens, clapper rails, rail birds) are the emblem of marshland worlds of men hunting vast wetland meadows and marshlands of salt grass, cooking together in clam houses and garage kitchens. This chapter examines the natural history of marsh hens, hunting lore, storytelling, terroir, foodways and regional identity through historical narratives, recipes, and oral histories.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129253880","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0004
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"Busted Sooks, Rank Peelers, and White-Belly Jimmies","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0004","url":null,"abstract":"The trade in blue crabs remains an important part of the Eastern Shore economy, and it traces its origins back to the arrival of the railroad and advances in food processing and preservation in the late 1800s. This chapter begins with the regional vernacular nomenclature for blue crabs related to the fishery, marketing, and shedding for soft shell crabs. It includes details on crabbing and recipes. The chapter speaks to the creation of terroir and cuisine through language.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"105 ","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134092261","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A South You Never AtePub Date : 2019-10-14DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0013
Bernard L. Herman
{"title":"Barbacoa de Cordero de Hog Island","authors":"Bernard L. Herman","doi":"10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0013","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5149/northcarolina/9781469653471.003.0013","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter looks at the contemporary rise of Latin American foodways on the Eastern Shore of Virginia through the lens of an evolving terroir and cuisine. The chapter begins with an Eastern Shore Guatemalan mutton barbacoa, pursues the narrative of Hog Island rare breed sheep associated with the natural and cultural history of Virginia's barrier islands, and concludes with how one family finds its own traditions, terroir, and cuisine in a new home.","PeriodicalId":421548,"journal":{"name":"A South You Never Ate","volume":"40 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130586966","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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