A Taste for Toads

Abstract

The is chapter explores the natural and culinary history of toads (the fish, not the amphibian) as well as a specialized fishery and invention around a seasonal catch. The toads rise from a “trash” by-catch to a delicacy speaks to evolving sensibilities around cuisine and terroir. A toad is a complicated creature. It tests the boundaries of Leviticus and chart the dangers of gastronomy. The chapter makes extensive use of oral history, natural history, and local foodways.