International Journal of Fashion Studies最新文献_第8页

The fashion scandal: Social media, identity and the globalization of fashion in the twenty-first century 时尚丑闻：社交媒体、身份认同与21世纪时尚全球化

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2021-07-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00045_1

Annamari Vänskä, O. Gurova

引用次数: 3

Fashioning China: Precarious Creativity and Women Designers in Shanzhai Culture, Sara Liao (2020) 《时尚中国：山寨文化中的不稳定创意与女性设计师》，廖（2020）

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2021-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/INFS_00043_5

Yating Jin

引用次数: 0

Genius and taste: Sara Danius’ couture gowns as extended power dressing 天才和品味:Sara Danius的高级定制礼服作为延伸的权力着装

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00047_1

Boel Ulfsdotter

{"title":"Genius and taste: Sara Danius’ couture gowns as extended power dressing","authors":"Boel Ulfsdotter","doi":"10.1386/infs_00047_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00047_1","url":null,"abstract":"The visual politics of fashion has again become a topic of interest to scholars working both inside and outside the realm of fashion studies, although many, like this author, actually bow to Jennifer Craik’s ground-breaking study The Face of Fashion (1994). This article introduces the notion extended power dressing as a way to further the scholarly study of contemporary female executives’ brand of power dressing in the aftermath of John T. Molloy’s 1980s matrix for successful ‘wardrobe-engineering’. In line with previous studies of the sartorial dress code represented by women in power, this article features a pertinent example from yet another social arena, in the form of the unprecedented couture gowns worn by the late permanent secretary of the Swedish Academy, Sara Danius, at the Nobel Festivities in Stockholm between 2015 and 2018. The author suggests that these frocks are materialized visions of Danius’ intellectual wit and cultural taste, thus representing a visual articulation of her powerful rank. An important characteristic pertaining to Danius’ extended power dressing is therefore that her situated dress practice, while advocating different practices of resistance and counterconduct, refuted all sexualization of her as a female subject to the benefit of a selfauthored and self-reflecting enfashioning technology. By detailing the intellectual process behind Danius’ gowns, as well as their performance in society, this study shows how power is behaving and how it is structured when comparing the conduct of a certain dominant discourse (in this case cultural tradition and misogyny) to the author’s proposed counter-discourse (resistance and female agency). The author suggests that the visual politics emerging from this meeting represent a unique female subculture adding yet another layer to the visual politics of fashion.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"66717389","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Marks of Obsession: Appearance, Transformation, Pain, and the Abject Female Body 痴迷的标志:外表、转变、痛苦和卑贱的女性身体

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.38055/fs030203

引用次数: 0

Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto 2020 2020年多伦多土著时装周

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2021-01-01 DOI: 10.38055/fs030201

引用次数: 0

#NaturalDye

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2020-11-27 DOI: 10.38055/fs030107

Kelsie Doty, D. Green, Dehanza Rogers

引用次数: 0

Affect and Sensation 情感和感觉

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2020-11-27 DOI: 10.38055/fs030103

Ellen Sampson

{"title":"Affect and Sensation","authors":"Ellen Sampson","doi":"10.38055/fs030103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.38055/fs030103","url":null,"abstract":"“Affect and Sensation” brings together cyanotypes and text from the practice-based project “The Afterlives of Clothes” to explore the sensory and emotional effects of archival fashion research. Addressing the ways that imperfect garments make the absent bodies of those who used, made, and repaired them present for us, the works are a call to engage with the intricacies of wear, gesture, and trace. Initially developed during a fellowship at The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and later a residency at Bard Graduate Centre, the broader project asks how, in a field where absent bodies and narratives are already understood as problematic, presenting the traces of use might re-contextualize objects which would otherwise be excluded from view. Focusing on accessories, objects which Jones and Stallybrass term “detachable parts” of the self (2001b: 116), the images and writing draw upon a methodology that combines archival research with auto-ethnographic writing, image, and filmmaking to explore the embodied and bodily experience of researching imperfect garments in museum archives. Presenting archives as repositories of affect, labour, emotion, and bodily trace, they ask how ideas of affect and containment might shed light on the encounter with archival garments. This project presents garments in archives as both containers and producers of affect — an affect that, in part, stems from the bodies that wore and made them, but also from the multiple meanings that they acquire through accession, storage, conservation, and display.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"11 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-11-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89836092","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Missed Fit 错过了健康

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2020-11-27 DOI: 10.38055/fs030104

P. Sparks

引用次数: 1

Fashion Studies Volume 3, Issue 1, Launch Panel Discussion 时装研究卷3，第1期，启动小组讨论

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2020-11-27 DOI: 10.38055/fs030111

S. Ottmann, Ellen Sampson, Phil Sparks, C. Thompson

引用次数: 0

Scottish fashion influencers: Constructing a style identity on Instagram 苏格兰时尚影响者：在Instagram上构建时尚身份

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2020-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/INFS_00017_1

Madeleine Marcella-Hood

{"title":"Scottish fashion influencers: Constructing a style identity on Instagram","authors":"Madeleine Marcella-Hood","doi":"10.1386/INFS_00017_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/INFS_00017_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article builds on existing theories of self-presentation and self-identity through a study into the behaviour of fashion influencers who position themselves as Scottish on Instagram. Fourteen interviews were carried out with Scottish fashion influencers who were asked to reflect\u0000 on their online identity. The interaction between the offline and online self is explored, where national identity and a sense of place are recognized as important attributes of self-identity in an offline setting and participants were sampled on the basis that they were projecting this as\u0000 a key component of their online self. All were found to be seeking to convey an ideal identity on Instagram; this involved curating particular aspects of their offline style and showcasing these online. The issue of authenticity was complex, and a spectrum of identity evolution on Instagram\u0000 is observed and reflected on. The most career-minded participants tended to portray themselves in a more one-sided manner and were most strongly influenced by a sense of their audience. In contrast, the participants who were less career-minded tended to explore more freely with their online\u0000 self and were influenced most strongly by internal factors.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48663238","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0