International Journal of Fashion Studies最新文献_第9页

Mizrahim masculine fashion as the expression of political confrontation in Israel in the 1970s 20世纪70年代以色列政治对抗的表现

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00008_1

Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Henriette Dahan-Kalev

引用次数: 1

From state uniform to fashion: Japanese adoption of western clothing since the late nineteenth century 从国家制服到时尚：19世纪末以来日本对西方服装的采用

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00005_1

A. Kobayashi

引用次数: 0

Fabricating black modernity: Fashion and African American womanhood during the first great migration 虚构黑人现代性：第一次大移民时期的时尚与非裔美国女性

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00007_1

Einav Rabinovitch-Fox

{"title":"Fabricating black modernity: Fashion and African American womanhood during the first great migration","authors":"Einav Rabinovitch-Fox","doi":"10.1386/infs_00007_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00007_1","url":null,"abstract":"The early twentieth century was a time of great influx in America. Shifting demographics in the 1910s and 1920s, most notably the migration of thousands of African Americans from the rural South to the urban centres of the North, opened economic and leisure possibilities that provided\u0000 new spaces to define black modernity and its role in shaping American identity. Debates over black women’s bodies, clothing, hair, and general appearance stood at the centre of public attention and political discourse over gender and race equality, forming a realm where African Americans\u0000 could challenge white racist stereotypes regarding black femininity and beauty, as well as a means through which they could claim new freedoms and achieve economic mobility. Middle-class reformers, young black migrants, as well as new role models such as female performers and blues singers,\u0000 all used dress and appearance to redefine notions of beauty, respectability and freedom on their own terms. For these women, fashions became intertwined with questions of racial progress and inclusion in American society, offering a way to lay claims for equal citizenship that moved beyond\u0000 individual expressions and preferences. This article highlights the place of fashion as a critical political realm for African Americans, who were often barred from access to formal routes of power in the era of Jim Crow. Shifting the perspective beyond official forms of civil rights activism,\u0000 it argues that fashion enabled black women to carve new positions of power from which they could actively participate in gender and racial politics, demanding their equal place in American society.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47732554","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Gritty realism through rosetinted specs: The exhibition North: Fashioning Identity 玫瑰色眼镜下坚韧不拔的现实主义:“北方:塑造身份”展览

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00011_7

Johannes Reponen

引用次数: 0

The scenographic, costumed chorus, agency and the performance of matter: A new materialist approach to costume 舞台设计、服装合唱、代理和物质的表现:一种新的服装唯物主义方法

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00001_1

Donatella Barbieri, Greer Crawley

{"title":"The scenographic, costumed chorus, agency and the performance of matter: A new materialist approach to costume","authors":"Donatella Barbieri, Greer Crawley","doi":"10.1386/infs_00001_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00001_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article presents the performativity of costume as generated through materially discursive iterative processes that embed meaning in the production itself through the analysis of the chorus costumes for the 2018 Opéra du Rhin production of Eugene Onegin. It argues that a\u0000 new materialist approach can reveal the ethical concerns, around gender, toxic masculinity and compliance to reactionary social conventions, that lie at the core of this costuming of an opera chorus, particularly when perceived through the multiple forms that shape its distinct materializations\u0000 over three successive acts. In addition, a focus on the agential actions of materials will draw attention to the work of the costume department, which to date has remained largely unaddressed by analytical approaches that are solely based on spectatorship, semiotics or phenomenological perspectives.\u0000 Identifying the agential actions that materials perform enables the articulation of the costume specialist’s response to the performativity of materials. Adopting a new materialist approach, ‘costuming’ is found to be an evolving and relational form that emerges from a complex\u0000 process of meaning-making that addresses, through a distribution of agency, how materials connect to wider concerns.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45485140","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 9

Germany’s next Topmodel: On the historical contexts of a talent show 德国下一个超级模特:才艺表演的历史背景

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00010_7

L. Seegers

引用次数: 0

Fashion and history: There is no doubt that clothes matter 时尚与历史:毫无疑问，服装很重要

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00003_2

Sven Bethke, Nathalie Keigel

引用次数: 0

Book Review 书评

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00013_5

Nazlı Alimen

引用次数: 0

Hunting the absent historical male body 狩猎缺席的历史男性身体

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00009_7

S. Goldsmith

引用次数: 0

Tetela amulets: Re-interpreting a medical anthropology collection as a fashion benchmark Tetela护身符:重新诠释医学人类学收藏作为时尚标杆

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International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00002_1

H. Akou

{"title":"Tetela amulets: Re-interpreting a medical anthropology collection as a fashion benchmark","authors":"H. Akou","doi":"10.1386/infs_00002_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00002_1","url":null,"abstract":"In the 1920s and 1930s, missionaries and colonial officials in equatorial Africa collected thousands of amulets – devices worn on the body that were made locally for protection and healing (spiritual and/or physical). One of these collections – assembled in the 1920s by\u0000 an American pseudo-missionary, Major John White – is now held at the Mathers Museum of World Cultures at Indiana University, which accepted the amulets and other artefacts used by the Tetela people as an example of ‘medical anthropology’. Although they were not made as ‘fashion’\u0000 (or even as art), I argue that they can be viewed as a style of dress specific to a time and place and thus as fashion. Like fashions in clothing, individual amulets can be shown to have similarities in their form and symbolic meaning, which can be expected to change over time. I propose looking\u0000 at this collection of amulets as a ‘fashion benchmark’ in the history of Tetela dress, calling for further research and seeking to push the boundaries on our conception of fashion, making it less focused on the ‘fashion industry’ and more inclusive of slower-changing\u0000 styles of dress, minority cultures, and non-western cultures.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45487480","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0