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International Journal of Fashion Studies最新文献

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Reclaiming tradition, fashioning citizenship: Ankara in contemporary Brazilian Afrocentric fashion 恢复传统，塑造公民身份:当代巴西非洲中心时尚中的安卡拉
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00094_1
Dandara Maia
{"title":"Reclaiming tradition, fashioning citizenship: Ankara in contemporary Brazilian Afrocentric fashion","authors":"Dandara Maia","doi":"10.1386/infs_00094_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00094_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the ways in which fashion consumption shaped the understandings of citizenship and belonging in colonial and postcolonial Nigeria and Brazil. It focuses on ankara , a printed textile that was brought to West Africa by European merchants and Christian missionaries. The article examines how African materials, such as ankara , challenged modern beauty standards and have been used to control people during colonization. In Nigeria, ankara became a symbol of the new Christian citizen, while in contemporary Brazil, it was used to challenge western fashion and celebrate African heritage. The article uses visual art, literature and interviews with fashion designers in Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Salvador to show how ankara has become a part of Afrocentric Brazilian fashion. Overall, the study of ankara shows how fashion has been used as a tool of oppression and how its oppressive history is in the process of changing, thanks to modern Afro-Brazilian fashion designers.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"134 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136152454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Moda Negra, past and present Moda Negra，过去和现在
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00092_2
Jonathan Michael Square
{"title":"Moda Negra, past and present","authors":"Jonathan Michael Square","doi":"10.1386/infs_00092_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00092_2","url":null,"abstract":"The institution of slavery had a profound and enduring influence on the culture of Brazil, particularly in fashion. The early trans-Atlantic slave trade was dominated by the Portuguese, beginning in the sixteenth century; the importation of enslaved Africans to Brazil continued well into the nineteenth century, contributing to Brazil’s large Black population. Enslaved individuals actively used fashion to express their African heritage and resist the hierarchy of slavery. Fashion also served as a tool for power and control, with clothing choices reflecting social status. During pre-Lenten Carnaval celebrations, social hierarchies were temporarily overturned. African cosmologies influenced dressing, with elements like jewellery and ceremonial colours conveying spiritual significance. Contemporary Afro-Brazilian designers continue to incorporate these elements, thereby highlighting the dynamic nature of Afro-Brazilian fashion.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"38 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136153562","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Unveiling narratives through paint, dress and embroidery: Exploring representations of Black people in the art of Maria Auxiliadora da Silva 通过绘画、服装和刺绣揭开叙事:探索玛丽亚·奥西利亚多拉·达席尔瓦艺术中黑人的表现
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00096_1
Hanayrá Negreiros
{"title":"Unveiling narratives through paint, dress and embroidery: Exploring representations of Black people in the art of Maria Auxiliadora da Silva","authors":"Hanayrá Negreiros","doi":"10.1386/infs_00096_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00096_1","url":null,"abstract":"Maria Auxiliadora da Silva, an Afro-Brazilian painter in the early twentieth century, was born into an artistic family. Her artwork, which reflects everyday life and Afro-Brazilian culture, includes personal memories and experiences. This article focuses on how Silva portrayed clothing and textiles in her paintings, particularly in terms of female representations and Black religiosity. Three of her works in the collection of the Museu de Arte de São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand (MASP) will serve as starting points for discussing the intersection of fashion studies, art history and decolonial interpretations.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136153573","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
I Africanize São Paulo 非洲化sao保罗
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00099_7
Reighan Gillam
{"title":"I Africanize São Paulo","authors":"Reighan Gillam","doi":"10.1386/infs_00099_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00099_7","url":null,"abstract":"The essay briefly discusses the use of T-shirts that affirm Black identity in Brazil.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136153570","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Axó of the spider woman: Black activism in Goya Lopes’s patterned fabrics Axó的蜘蛛女:黑人激进主义戈雅·洛佩斯的图案织物
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00093_1
Roberto Conduru
{"title":"Axó of the spider woman: Black activism in Goya Lopes’s patterned fabrics","authors":"Roberto Conduru","doi":"10.1386/infs_00093_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00093_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article delves into the remarkable work and journey of Goya Lopes, an Afro-Brazilian designer, entrepreneur and activist. It explores the intersection of fashion and art within her designs of patterned fabrics, which encompass a wide range of everyday and unique garments, household items and more. The discussion highlights pivotal moments in Lopes’s career, including her 2008 solo exhibition The African Diaspora in Brazil , her collaborative book Imagens da Diáspora (‘Images of the diaspora’) with Brazilian historian Gustavo Falcón in 2010 and her 2017 installation Sentidos Afro-Baianos (‘Afro-Bahian senses’). Through examining select fabric patterns, the article unveils their significance as integral components of Lopes’s ongoing anti-racist activism, which has spanned over five decades from the region of Bahia in northeastern Brazil. Lastly, it delves into Lopes’s unique conceptualization of her fabrics as axós , drawing on the Yoruba term for aso (‘cloth’), and highlights their role as empowering, protective and militant Afro-diasporic mantles. The article underscores how Lopes employs fashion design as a form of activism and a subtle yet potent means to propagate political ideas.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"17 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136153576","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Decolonial fashion ethnography: ‘Before Yesterday’ method 非殖民时尚人种学:“Before Yesterday”方法
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00095_1
Mi Medrado
{"title":"Decolonial fashion ethnography: ‘Before Yesterday’ method","authors":"Mi Medrado","doi":"10.1386/infs_00095_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00095_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores decolonial fashion ethnography, focusing on the convergence of media and fashion in Angola and Brazil. Through fieldwork research, the article examines the production and circulation of fashion goods. The article emphasizes the need to decolonize the media and fashion industries, proposing the Antes de Ontem method for decolonial fashion ethnography. This method encourages a shift away from Eurocentric and binary thinking, promoting inclusivity and diversity in fashion research. The author emphasizes the coloniality of dress and the perpetuation of structural and cultural racism within the fashion industry. The article concludes by advocating for the integration of Afro-Brazilian fashion history and knowledge, challenging structural racism and Eurocentrism in the industry.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"85 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136152455","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Social justice movements in the expansion of the Afro-Brazilian fashion market 社会正义运动扩大了非裔巴西时装市场
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00097_1
Ana Rafaella Oliveira de Araújo
{"title":"Social justice movements in the expansion of the Afro-Brazilian fashion market","authors":"Ana Rafaella Oliveira de Araújo","doi":"10.1386/infs_00097_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00097_1","url":null,"abstract":"Fashion in the twenty-first century has been heavily impacted by social justice movements. Given this scenario, this article aims to discuss the reflexes that the Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement caused in the global fashion industry from the year 2020, especially in Brazil. From the analysis of the events that motivated this movement, as well as a critical reading of the Brazilian historical-social formation context, I seek to present the emerging brands of racialized creators that are being highlighted at São Paulo Fashion Week, one of the most important fashion events in the country and Latin America.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"27 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136153574","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
‘Axós no mercado’: The trade of Candomblé fashion in Salvador, Bahia “Axós no mercado”:巴伊亚州萨尔瓦多的candombl<s:1>时装交易
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00098_1
Daisy Santos
{"title":"‘Axós no mercado’: The trade of Candomblé fashion in Salvador, Bahia","authors":"Daisy Santos","doi":"10.1386/infs_00098_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00098_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article investigates the production and consumption of Candomblé clothing in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil, exploring its historical roots and significance within Afro-religious culture. The study analyses the contemporary Candomblé fashion industry, interviewing both older, established seamstresses and younger practitioners. Candomblé attire serves as a marker of identity and hierarchy within a religion that has faced historical racism and persecution. With a growing destigmatization and tourism influence, Candomblé clothing has gained visibility and commercial value. The emergence of a new generation of seamstresses contributes to the revival of traditional techniques and creates a market for Candomblé fashion. Overall, the article provides valuable insights into the evolving role of Candomblé clothing in Brazilian Afro-religious culture.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"60 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136153575","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Modenetze - Modeschwärme
IF 0.4
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-07-06 DOI: 10.14361/9783839468005
Anna Kamneva-Wortmann
{"title":"Modenetze - Modeschwärme","authors":"Anna Kamneva-Wortmann","doi":"10.14361/9783839468005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.14361/9783839468005","url":null,"abstract":"Modemacher*innen, Designer*innen, Influencer*innen, Medien, Subkulturen - noch immer wird die Verantwortung für den modischen Wandel bei zentralen Schlüsselfiguren gesucht. Doch die Gatekeeper*innen der Vergangenheit haben viel von ihrer Definitionsmacht verloren. Was also treibt Moden gegenwärtig voran? Die Initiative scheint auf eine große Zahl Einzelner übergegangen, deren Vielfalt vestimentäre Kulturen hervorbringt, die sich als räumliche Modenetze und zeitliche Modeschwärme beschreiben lassen. Anna Kamneva-Wortmann bietet eine neue Perspektive auf die modische Demokratisierung und behauptet: Kleidermoden entstehen und verschwinden heute »bottom-up«.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"58 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89061858","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Whose body is it anyway? Disguising a disabled self 这是谁的尸体？伪装残疾的自己
IF 0.4
International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2023-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/infs_00087_7
N. Cornell
{"title":"Whose body is it anyway? Disguising a disabled self","authors":"N. Cornell","doi":"10.1386/infs_00087_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00087_7","url":null,"abstract":"This article traces a year in which I moved from Cape Town, South Africa to the University of Oxford, England for my master’s in African studies. It presents a series of vignettes to explore the interplay of disability, dress and disguise during that time as trauma, alienation and my history of mental illness triggered a health crisis. The physical realities of living in my new body fundamentally changed not only how I dressed it, but my relationship with dress itself. Dressing became an obstacle to being able to be in the external world, a performance of invisibility to dissolve the selves that rendered me so abnormal, both politically and medically, and a touchstone of a prior and better existence.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43944639","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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