{"title":"Mahila1 à la mode: The auntie-fit croqui","authors":"Arti Sandhu","doi":"10.1386/infs_00078_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00078_7","url":null,"abstract":"The stylized fashion figure or croqui is fundamental to the fashion design process. Highly regarded as a tool for design articulation and innovation, it is also an immensely popular creative art form, enjoying a recent renaissance on social media platforms. Most fashion institutions across the globe teach illustration as a foundation-level skill. Students absorb a strict set of rules dictated by the ten-head body proportion. This article explores the colonial implications of the stylized croqui. The drawings challenge the genre by selectively abandoning and playing with the rules of fashion illustration in order to decolonize this design tool.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49259612","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Defining defashion: A manifesto for degrowth","authors":"S. Niessen","doi":"10.1386/infs_00082_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00082_7","url":null,"abstract":"A paradigmatic shift is needed if the Fashion industry is to put the well-being of people, their lifeways and the earth first. Like degrowth, defashion involves a deep reduction in material and energy throughputs in clothing production, but it goes much beyond this standard approach to sustainability. The required shift is comparable to the revolutionary change that must be made to the global economic system in order to achieve degrowth and is encapsulated in the definition of the term ‘defashion’. The neologism is a call to action: to dismantle the current Fashion system and replace it with a pluriverse of clothing systems that are fair, local, decolonial and profoundly respectful and nurturing. The activist group, Fashion Act Now, which is launching the term, proposes the clothing commons as a post-fashion strategy.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43321722","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Decolonizing fashion [studies] as process","authors":"Sarah Cheang, Leslie W. Rabine, Arti Sandhu","doi":"10.1386/infs_00070_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00070_2","url":null,"abstract":"In this Special Issue, we explore decolonizing fashion studies not as a destination but as non-linear process, ever revised, re-evaluated, revisited and relived. Situated within a space of self-questioning, the authors in this Special Issue embrace unresolved contradictions and unresolvable paradoxes inherent to the very being of fashion. They are participants, aware that there is no pure pre-colonial space to return to, no ‘authentic’ pre-colonial dress to resuscitate, accept the multiple means to liberation that emerge through layered/interconnected/tangled histories. In pieces about India, Nigeria, Senegal, Argentina, the United Kingdom and the United States, contributors demonstrate that oftentimes decolonial efforts reinscribe the very power relations they seek to dismantle as a seemingly inescapable condition of capitalist modernity. Yet these conflicted efforts make valuable contributions to social justice. Turning these problems into our theme, we see incompleteness as a path forward rather than an impasse. This introductory essay examines the unanswerable questions that ‘process’ or ‘being in process’ creates. Reflecting critically on the processes of academic publishing as well, we explore giving equal weight to unconventional, open-ended and situated analysis, as well as performative modes of storytelling, illustration and videography, as a strategy toward a future path in fashion studies.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42579328","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"What is education in fashion? Reflecting on the coloniality of design techniques in the fashion design educational process","authors":"Tanveer Ahmed","doi":"10.1386/infs_00079_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00079_7","url":null,"abstract":"Research in fashion to expose dominant Eurocentric narratives tends to focus on fashion theories and histories, neglecting fashion design processes, especially within studio-based practices and in education. However, analysing how colonial systems reproduce Eurocentric fashion knowledge in the fashion design process might help locate alternative heterogeneous ways to practise and teach fashion design. Drawing on Tlostanova’s coloniality of design concept, this article investigates how gendered, racialized and capitalist disciplinary forces have underpinned the tools and equipment used in the fashion classroom. To expose the racial hierarchies underpinning fashion requires rethinking some of the dominant assumptions of Eurocentric fashion epistemologies to contextualize the sociocultural contexts of fashion.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44513602","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"I Love You as Much as All the Beads in the Universe: A Garment-Based Inquiry into Re-Stitching Alternative Worlds of Love","authors":"","doi":"10.38055/fr010101","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.38055/fr010101","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"8 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78302803","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"In Conversation with Christi Belcourt","authors":"","doi":"10.38055/fr010105","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.38055/fr010105","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83323495","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Discussant: Land Based Fashion: A Leading Fashion Framework","authors":"","doi":"10.38055/fr010110","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.38055/fr010110","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"29 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89925861","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Clothing, Colonial Subjugation, and the Performance of Political Authority in Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe","authors":"","doi":"10.38055/fs030204","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.38055/fs030204","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":"11 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88119639","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}