Studies in Costume & Performance最新文献_第3页

Romaison 2020 Rome, an Extraordinary Maison: The Archives and Creations of Its Costume Studios, curated by Clara Tosi Pamphili Romaison 2020罗马，非凡之家:服装工作室的档案和创作，由Clara Tosi Pamphili策划

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00039_5

Grazia Colombini

引用次数: 1

From historical materiality to performance: Choreographic functions of the costumes in The Rite of Spring (1913) 从历史物质性到表演性:《春之祭》(1913)中服装的舞蹈功能

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00033_1

Hanna Järvinen

{"title":"From historical materiality to performance: Choreographic functions of the costumes in The Rite of Spring (1913)","authors":"Hanna Järvinen","doi":"10.1386/scp_00033_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00033_1","url":null,"abstract":"Examining the surviving costumes of the 1913 production of The Rite of Spring, this article explores how costumes functioned in the Russian ‘new ballet’ choreography, of which the Ballets Russes Company is the most internationally famous example. The materiality of\u0000 costumes ‐ the fabric, cut and dye ‐ organized the dancing bodies onstage in a manner that, in part, relied on Russian contexts invisible to the predominantly foreign audiences of the performances in Paris and London. Subsequently, these Russian reactions where The Rite of\u0000 Spring was part of a continuum of representations of Russia’s past have been largely ignored in favour of the opinions of French and British critics, for whom the work appeared extraordinary and alien. The so-called reconstruction (1987), where the surviving costumes were used to\u0000 compensate for the absence of choreographic understanding, has further obscured what the choreography was and what costumes actually did (and do) in performance. Although decisions made in recreating performance differ from historiographical research, exploring the practical making of costumes\u0000 also draws attention to perspectives often forgotten in discussions of past performance more generally ‐ such as changes in how costumes are experienced, or what that experience explains of later reminiscences.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"33 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114477584","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Naked villainy: Encounters with an archetype of disfigurement 赤裸裸的邪恶:遇到毁容的原型

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00037_1

Ben LaMontagne-Schenck

{"title":"Naked villainy: Encounters with an archetype of disfigurement","authors":"Ben LaMontagne-Schenck","doi":"10.1386/scp_00037_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00037_1","url":null,"abstract":"This research report is focused on an emergent methodology developed to support a transformational actor‐researcher engaged in heuristic inquiry. Rooted in Stanislavskian practices, transformational acting outlines a character building technique that is, at its core, a physical\u0000 process. By including costume as an integral component of this physical character-building process, the actor is equipped with a material tool with which they may alter their means of perception. A combined reading of modern cognitive theory and feminist theory asserts that such perceptual\u0000 alterations as costume affords may then result in a fundamental shift in the performer’s identity, facilitating a lived experience of the character’s identity. Considering costume within a Stanislavskian context introduces a material set of given circumstances; an embodied experience\u0000 of another’s possibilities or impossibilities of movement. While these perceptual changes stimulate transformation, an actor‐researcher may also find themselves in active collaboration with a ‘character’ outside of themselves, potentially lending new-found insight\u0000 within a research setting. Starting from a materialist approach to character, I chose to use Shakespeare’s character Richard III as a case study to test my hypothesis. What I soon began to realize was that this unidentified ‘materiality’ that I had been drawn to could not\u0000 be distinguished from Richard’s ‘disability’. I began to ask, what are the ethical implications of an actor donning various external costume-based tools in embodying a disabled character? How does such an approach help us move away from the medical model of disability to\u0000 the social, and perhaps even towards the affirmative and to resituate disability as a lived experience rather than metaphor? This research report details an emergent methodology confronted with the ethical implications of costume’s impact on the portrayal and understanding of disability\u0000 in theatre today.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"53 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115175391","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Fraying Parachutes: Costume agency and convivencia in contemporary circus performance making 磨损降落伞:当代马戏表演制作中的服装代理和便利

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2020-08-22 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00050_3

M. Man

{"title":"Fraying Parachutes: Costume agency and convivencia in contemporary circus performance making","authors":"M. Man","doi":"10.1386/scp_00050_3","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00050_3","url":null,"abstract":"Fraying Parachutes explores from a choreographer/facilitator’s perspective the agency found in the costume making processes during Femme de Feu’s Circus Sessions 2019, in which three abandoned parachutes were upcycled and transformed into circus costumes. It traces\u0000 the journey from conceptualization to ad hoc design, involving de-construction and much physical entanglement, to the eventual wear and non-wearability of the costumes in performance. Bringing together fourteen artists from South America, North America and Europe, the embodied research that\u0000 informed this work took as its foci: positive receptivity, hospitality and fascination as qualities and modes of creating collectively. The experimental circus costume making processes provided an opportunity to physically expand upon theories of agential realism and entanglement, in relation\u0000 to the material and the social. The re-purposed parachutes served as constant reminders of flight, suspension, risk and rescue, qualities that are innately present in circus technique and performance. In ‘rescuing’ the parachutes from landfill, the work also gave visibility to\u0000 an ecological ethic in performance making, or what Tanja Beer refers to as a practice of ecoscenography, where issues of waste and sustainability may be addressed. Underscoring this essay will be the notion of convivencia or a literal ‘living with’ other and the non-human\u0000 as essential to process and performance. Distinct to a co-labouring of ideas, in Circus Sessions, convivencia encompassed our creative entanglements, the friction and flow in artistic decision making, our discussions, reflections and laughter. It would also attune our listening to epistemologies\u0000 of the South, to the diverse cultural perspectives and sensibilities that the different performers from three continents brought to the project. In this visual essay, costume agency is understood as a tensile potentiality that generates creative energy informed by the serendipitous opportunities\u0000 found in the sensory binding of costume making processes.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"58 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130989923","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Costume and ethics: Reflections on past, present and future entanglements 服饰与伦理:对过去、现在和未来纠缠的反思

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00010_2

Donatella Barbieri, Sofia Pantouvaki

引用次数: 4

Digital Design for Custom Textiles: Patterns as Narration for Stage and Film, Amber Marisa Cook (2018) 定制纺织品的数字设计:作为舞台和电影叙事的图案，琥珀·玛丽莎·库克(2018)

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00021_5

Zi Young Kang

引用次数: 1

Cultural appropriation: Yours, mine, theirs or a new intercultural? 文化挪用:你的、我的、他们的还是新的跨文化挪用?

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00013_1

Deepsikha Chatterjee

{"title":"Cultural appropriation: Yours, mine, theirs or a new intercultural?","authors":"Deepsikha Chatterjee","doi":"10.1386/scp_00013_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00013_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article considers how by shifting culturally anchored design materials from one context to simplistic placement in decontextualized settings, cultural appropriation takes place in costume design. Building on that, it discusses how production teams need to be cognizant of such issues in the design process given that availability of such materials has historically been possible because acquisition has often aligned with political and commercial ambitions. Reviewing scholarship on appropriation that includes performance, costume, fashion and cultural studies, it questions how designing costumes through intercultural interaction might be navigated in a globalized context, where artists are excluded through travel bans, but cultural materials are permitted free movement. The article then discusses how to create productive intercultural projects with teams willing to invest in ethical engagement. By including case studies in which such processes were less successful as well as one that indeed created new intercultural exchanges, this article is one of the first texts to address this complex issue. It intends to engender future forward thinking conversations with practitioners and researchers on the thorny but urgent issue of cultural appropriation through costume.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"72 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116636334","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 7

Habiller l’Opéra: costumes et ateliers de l’Opéra de Paris1, Centre national du costume de scène et de la scénographie, Moulins-sur-Allier, France, 25 May–3 November 2019 2019年5月25日至11月3日，法国阿利耶穆林斯国家舞台服装和布景中心opera de Paris1的服装和工作坊

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00019_5

Carole Schinck

引用次数: 1

Costume at the National Theatre: A curator’s talk 国家剧院的服装:馆长的谈话

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2020-06-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00016_1

A. Monks

引用次数: 1

Trinity: Visual dramaturgy, the body as scenographer and author 三位一体:视觉戏剧，身体作为布景和作者

Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2019-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00005_1

K. Lane

{"title":"Trinity: Visual dramaturgy, the body as scenographer and author","authors":"K. Lane","doi":"10.1386/scp_00005_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00005_1","url":null,"abstract":"This visual essay will introduce Brave New Worlds’ costume-led devising process in the creative evolution of their production, Trinity. Brave New Worlds is a collaboration between movement specialist and director Valentina Ceschi, and artists and scenographers Guoda Jaruseviciute\u0000 and myself, Kate Lane. Their work centres on the body as scenographer and on collective authorship of design and direction and examines the following research questions: How can a costume direct the body’s movement and this movement direct the design development? How do you create a\u0000 dramaturgy from the scenography, invoking concept and narrative? If body scenography is the central focus for the performance, how do other design aspects collaborate to create a complete scenographic experience? This visual essay will present the working methodology of a visual dramaturgy,\u0000 examining the use of the body as the instigator in the scenography, the dialogue between the costume and the performer, and between the designer/performer as subject, author and object of the design. It will explore the stages of production, and creative processes involved, from initial research\u0000 on concept through design development to the implications of site-specific locations on the scenography and final dramaturgy. In the process, it places costume as author and dramaturg.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"22 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129278803","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 5