Studies in Costume & Performance最新文献

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Critical Costume 2020: Investigating costume agency 2020年关键服装:调查服装机构
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00043_2
Sofia Pantouvaki, B. Příhodová
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引用次数: 1
Agentic Aharya: Vibrant masks from South Asia Aharya:来自南亚的充满活力的面具
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00051_3
Deepsikha Chatterjee
{"title":"Agentic Aharya: Vibrant masks from South Asia","authors":"Deepsikha Chatterjee","doi":"10.1386/scp_00051_3","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00051_3","url":null,"abstract":"This essay foregrounds visuals of masks and costumes from Chhau and Bhaona performances from South Asia. Using a new materialist lens along with writings on ritual images, it reflects on how these masks and costumes have agency. Referred to as Aharya in the Indian\u0000 context, the masks and costumes of the case studies straddle a unique position between performative objects, religious objects and everyday decorative objects. This multiple positionality endows the masks and costumes an agency that displaces the traditional subject‐object binaries\u0000 of actor and costume. Highlighting Aharya’s inherent affective and ritual properties and foregrounding the mask-makers’ use of local materials, centuries-old techniques and their skills and creativity to conceptualize masks that work alongside and beyond performances, the\u0000 visual essay shows how these objects exceed the maker and the performer and reach wider audiences.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"36 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117033734","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Shoe Reels: The History and Philosophy of Footwear in Film, Elizabeth Ezra and Catherine Wheatley (Eds) (2020) 鞋卷:电影中鞋类的历史和哲学,伊丽莎白·埃兹拉和凯瑟琳·惠特利(编)(2020)
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00056_5
Cheryl Roberts
{"title":"Shoe Reels: The History and Philosophy of Footwear in Film, Elizabeth Ezra and Catherine Wheatley (Eds) (2020)","authors":"Cheryl Roberts","doi":"10.1386/scp_00056_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00056_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Shoe Reels: The History and Philosophy of Footwear in Film, Elizabeth Ezra and Catherine Wheatley (Eds) (2020)Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 320 pp.,ISBN 978-1-47445-140-6, h/bk, £85","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124721495","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Spatializing material‐corporeal entanglements: A new materialist approach to the agential work of costume in the stage adaptation of The Lovely Bones (2018) 空间化的物质-肉体纠缠:《可爱的骨头》(2018)舞台改编中服装代理工作的新唯物主义方法
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00046_1
Kitty Gurnos-Davies
{"title":"Spatializing material‐corporeal entanglements: A new materialist approach to the agential work of costume in the stage adaptation of The Lovely Bones (2018)","authors":"Kitty Gurnos-Davies","doi":"10.1386/scp_00046_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00046_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article argues for the value of conceptualizing the agency of costume in performance when it is not worn directly upon the body. I employ a new materialist framework to examine the spatial dynamics of the shifting corporeal‐material relations established when costume is\u0000 set apart from an actor onstage and, unworn, asserts its agency as an independent force distinct from the performer. My investigation is supported by a close analysis of Bryony Lavery’s page-to-stage adaptation of Alice Sebold’s novel, The Lovely Bones (2002), directed by\u0000 Melly Still and performed at the Royal & Derngate, Northampton in 2018. Drawing upon the observation of rehearsals and performances encountered as an embedded researcher, my discussion centres on the live practices of theatrical production. Employing Bennett’s new materialist thinking\u0000 laid out in Vibrant Matter: A Political Ecology of Things (2010) and Bill Brown’s ‘Thing Theory’ (2001, 2015), my discussion of The Lovely Bones shows costume to be an active participant in a ‘distributive agency’ enacted between garment and performer,\u0000 the contours of which are amplified when the two are set apart. The spatial disentanglement of the material and corporeal, evidenced in the performance of costume in The Lovely Bones, thus provides an opportunity to present a fuller understanding of the material agency of the stage.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128842831","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
The Costume Maker’s Companion 服装制造商的伙伴
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00055_5
T. Bate
{"title":"The Costume Maker’s Companion","authors":"T. Bate","doi":"10.1386/scp_00055_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00055_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: The Costume Maker’s Companion, Diane Favell (2020)Marlborough: Crowood Press Ltd., 272 pp.,ISBN 978-1-78500-719-4, p/bk, £25","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"4 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122439932","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Costume as a shared sensorial experience 服装是一种共同的感官体验
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00048_1
Iztok Hrga, Tjaša Frumen
{"title":"Costume as a shared sensorial experience","authors":"Iztok Hrga, Tjaša Frumen","doi":"10.1386/scp_00048_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00048_1","url":null,"abstract":"This research report discusses the creation of a costume for the spectator that stimulates sensorial experiences of internalized feelings. Under the project title Sense my Thoughts, we constructed two wearable prototypes: one for the performer and the other one for the spectator.\u0000 Wearable electronics embedded both in the performer’s and the spectator’s garments allow the spectator to become directly connected with the performer’s emotional experience through costume. This enables the spectators to identify with the onstage character through a personal\u0000 connection and immerse themselves in the performance on a multi-sensorial level. The goal of our practice-as-research was to design wearables that measure and transmit the performer’s biometric data in a sensorial format, which the spectator would be able to feel on/in their own body\u0000 in real time. We assembled one garment that captures performer’s input data, such as brainwaves, heartbeat and breathing, and interpret them as different emotional states. We then connected it wirelessly to another garment that we named the spectator’s costume, which receives\u0000 the performer’s data and activates hidden vibrational motors, speakers, heaters and coolers as various combinations of physical stimuli. In this article, we focus on the latter garment and explain how the spectator’s costume can become an agent of the wearer’s empathic\u0000 engagement through stimulating the suggestion of the performer’s embodied experiences. The work presented here is still in an early stage of development and, therefore, the conclusions are based on small-scale prototype research.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"11 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127738668","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
How to perform Blackness: Creating possibilities through costume design 如何表演Blackness:通过服装设计创造可能性
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00044_1
Andreina Vieira dos Santos
{"title":"How to perform Blackness: Creating possibilities through costume design","authors":"Andreina Vieira dos Santos","doi":"10.1386/scp_00044_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00044_1","url":null,"abstract":"The creation of costumes for a Black body in performances that deal with Blackness always evokes the conflict in presenting complex facets of a socially stigmatized body, in face of a tool (costume) that usually works to categorize bodies onstage. In this article, I initially analyse\u0000 how the Black body has been represented, for decades, on the stages of Brazilian theatre. I also try to understand how the theatre, in a structurally racist context, has become a place of resistance for the Brazilian Black Movement, as well as a political space to redefine what it means to\u0000 be Black. Bringing in references from my own artistic research and practice as a costume designer in the performances Unrestricted Contact (Grupo Oito, 2017) and Black Memories on White Bones (Ricardo de Paula, 2019), I conduct this research that deals with the complexity of\u0000 narrating Blackness through costumes that, together with the body, convey a process of deconstruction and decolonization within the performance.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131618683","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Insubordinate Costume 不听话的服装
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00052_3
Susan Marshall
{"title":"Insubordinate Costume","authors":"Susan Marshall","doi":"10.1386/scp_00052_3","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00052_3","url":null,"abstract":"In this visual essay, I explore the way costume can be used as a research tool and how playing with my modular ‘Insubordinate Costumes’ enables different creative interpretations and offers diverse dramaturgical possibilities. The term ‘Insubordinate Costume’\u0000 evolved from my research and is used to reflect the defiant, rebellious and unruly nature of performance-defining costume, which flouts practicalities and textual confines to embrace the role of protagonist. In order to explore the agency of ‘Insubordinate Costume’, I developed\u0000 flat-pack modular costumes, which can be constructed in different ways and organized workshops with both single performers and small groups in order to analyse a range of different approaches to performance making. The rule of play is essential to the approach to these costumes, both in the\u0000 playful essence of the costume and in the way the body interacts with it. Although the modular pieces are always the same, the resulting sculptural forms created by each performer have always been unique, as have their performances. Looking at New Materialism theories, my practice research\u0000 can be considered as an assemblage of human and non-human elements, which together have a greater power and the ability to generate a performance.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"71 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126268883","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Glamour: Famous Gowns of the Silver Screen, curated by Cornelia Bujin, Italo Nunziata and Hannu Palosuo 魅力:银幕上著名的礼服,由Cornelia Bujin, Italo Nunziata和Hannu Palosuo策划
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00054_5
Alexandra Ovtchinnikova, Maarit Kalmakurki
{"title":"Glamour: Famous Gowns of the Silver Screen, curated by Cornelia Bujin, Italo Nunziata and Hannu Palosuo","authors":"Alexandra Ovtchinnikova, Maarit Kalmakurki","doi":"10.1386/scp_00054_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00054_5","url":null,"abstract":"Glamour: Famous Gowns of the Silver Screen, curated by Cornelia Bujin, Italo Nunziata and Hannu PalosuoSerlachius Museum Gustaf, Mänttä, 26 September 2020‐10 January 2021","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129386722","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Critical Costume 2020 Exhibition: Costume Agency, curated by Yuka Oyama Critical Costume 2020展览:Costume Agency,由Yuka Oyama策划
Studies in Costume & Performance Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.1386/scp_00053_5
Rosane Muniz, Nigel Guérin-Garnett
{"title":"Critical Costume 2020 Exhibition: Costume Agency, curated by Yuka Oyama","authors":"Rosane Muniz, Nigel Guérin-Garnett","doi":"10.1386/scp_00053_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00053_5","url":null,"abstract":"Critical Costume 2020 Exhibition: Costume Agency, curated by Yuka OyamaOnline, 21 August 2020, <uri xlink:href=\"https://exhibition.costumeagency.com/\">https://exhibition.costumeagency.com/</uri>. Accessed 25 January 2021.","PeriodicalId":273630,"journal":{"name":"Studies in Costume & Performance","volume":"50 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132631318","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
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