{"title":"Diplomatic Wives, Cultures of Dress and Brita Kekkonen","authors":"Anna Niiranen","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i2.112655","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i2.112655","url":null,"abstract":"In this article, I discuss the private dress collection of Brita Kekkonen (1927–2013), a diplomatic wife, who was a very well-known figure in Finland during the period of the Cold War. Brita Kekkonen was also a very talented dressmaker and a very fashionable figure in diplomatic circles. Some eighty outfits made by Brita Kekkonen have survived to this day, in addition to her voluminous pattern collection, containing more than 1,000 patterns from several decades. The aim of my new postdoctoral research project is to identify Brita Kekkonen’s dresses and examine their use, politico-cultural meanings and design in the context of the Cold War, diplomatic etiquette and Kekkonen’s own personal history.","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127927812","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashions of Snæfellsness","authors":"Kait Sepp","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i2.102427","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i2.102427","url":null,"abstract":"The sagas of Icelanders (Íslendingasögur) are an important part of European literary history. Both the sagas’ historical background and their literary techniques were studied intensely in the last century, but dress and fashion in Old Norse–Icelandic literature received comparatively little attention in this period. Moreover, the literary corpus and textile history have rarely been used to illuminate one another; however, as this article will demonstrate, synthesising data and methodological approaches from both fields can yield new knowledge about both historical textiles and the sagas.\u0000This article focuses on four of the sagas of Icelanders that are set on the Snæfellsnes peninsula: Bjarnar saga Hítdælakappa, Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, Eyrbyggja saga, and Víglundar saga. The central question the article poses is, how are social norms and cultural ideas reflected in clothing and textiles in these sagas? This study presents a comprehensive and multifaceted view of the textile and clothing imagery by combining qualitative and quantitative textual analysis showing how the imagery is an integral part of the narrative rather than an embellishment. The article reveals that clothing and textiles serve an array of functions in the sagas which are linked to the societal order. Several themes — such as masculinity, social rank, and the practice of magic — are shown to have a close connection with clothing as well as other textiles. ","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126982755","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Creating a “Lapp” Character","authors":"J. Weckman","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i2.102459","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i2.102459","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the ways in which the Sámi were represented in the early years of established theatre in Finland, starting with the Finnish Theatre (Suomalainen Teatteri) in 1872 and its successor the Finnish National Theatre (Suomen kansallisteatteri), 1902. Particular attention is paid to the role of costumes in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, their designs often involving the consultation of ethnographers, archaeologists, historians and visual artists. The widest archival evidence for this study consists of theatre photographs and plays, supported by contemporary publications and newspaper articles. Textual sources were augmented by the study of Sámi garments. By identifying and analysing the relevant plays, related stage photographs and newspaper reviews, it becomes clear that recurrent ways developed for representing Sámi people on the stage. This development of “Lapp” characters was established through costume in conspicuous ways, with the exaggeration of particular features of Sámi dress leading to a recognizable trope of the “Lapp” costume.","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125703429","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ana Svetel, László Koppány Csáji, J. Latva, Eija Schwartz
{"title":"Breaking the Rules? Power, Participation, Transgression 15th Congress of SIEF hosted by the University of Helsinki, Finland, 19-24 June 2021","authors":"Ana Svetel, László Koppány Csáji, J. Latva, Eija Schwartz","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i1.111173","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i1.111173","url":null,"abstract":"No abstract - it is a Congress report.","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-11-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114193490","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Stadi Derby and the Securitization of Urban Public Space","authors":"Miira Kuvaja, Pia Olsson","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i1.88915","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i1.88915","url":null,"abstract":"Stadi Derby is a local football match played in Helsinki, Finland appreciated for its atmosphere and excitement. Simultaneously, the negative characteristics connected to the international football fan culture have become familiar also to those living in the capital area and especially in the surroundings of the stadium. The threat of violence is visible e.g. in the media coverage reporting about the derby. All this has also effect on the way the city dwellers experience the urban public space. In our article, we ask what kind of discourses can be found concerning the relationship between Stadi Derby and the right to public space and what kind of consequences i.e. reactions these discourses create among those city dwellers not involved in the football culture. In order to understand the ways these events and the media coverage over them have effect on urban dwellers we apply securitization theory. We look for speech acts from the media coverage and analyse the ways people respond to these speech acts through material produced via Facebook and a focus group interview. The division between insiders and outsiders to the football culture is clear: The outsiders feel distress, even fear, in consequence of media materials.","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-11-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116131633","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Hands-on Approach to Knitting Culture with a Few Loose Ends","authors":"Eliza Kraatari","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i1.107746","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i1.107746","url":null,"abstract":"Among the many phenomena that the corona pandemic has brought to limelight is the popularity of knitting in exceptional times. Amidst growing gaps in their stocks, many craft shops announce the arrival of a new lot of popular yarns on their social media accounts, and the knitting fever has been recurrently reported on the news. In the spring of 2021, even municipality branding campaigns started to ride on this trend, calling for designs that would materialise the municipality’s character in a woolly form (e.g. Korhonen 2021). In this regard, Anna Rauhala’s dissertation on the skill of knitting in Finland is a very timely publication. With a timeframe stretching from the late 19th century up to the 2010s, the study opens a wide perspective to the chain of decades of knitting. The reader is even informed about the earliest knitted examples from the 14th or 15th centuries in present-day south-western Finland, while the focus is more on the changes in knitting culture in Finland in the past hundred and fifty years. Rauhala’s approach to studying knitting culture puts the skill of knitting at the top, which allows different takes on the topic. This is already apparent in the introductory and methodological chapters of the book. Rauhala takes as point of departure a political satire image from 2003, in which the then president and prime minister, both female, sit each on one side of a large ball of yarn, marked with the Finnish flag, knitting a piece of a woolly scarf. Rauhala analyses this image as the illustrator’s interpretation of the women leading the country stitching together the Finnish political agenda, yet she recognises that drawing a parallel between women in political power and knitting is a possibly degrading approach, or at least an attempt of one. In this way, the author starts with problematising the cultural status of knitting, articulating the activity’s everyday connotations with the feminine, the domestic sphere and the subordinate, which clearly position knitting on the feminine side with respect to the opposition between the sexes. Rauhala points out that within the 1970s’ feminist movement, textile craftwork such as knitting and embroidery were regarded as mirroring women’s societally","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-11-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133584691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Maja Flajsig, Nevena Škrbić Alempijević, Josip Zanki
{"title":"Art in the Community","authors":"Maja Flajsig, Nevena Škrbić Alempijević, Josip Zanki","doi":"10.23991/ef.v48i1.101739","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v48i1.101739","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses the culture-making and place-making initiatives created at the intersection of ethnology and cultural anthropology, art and cultural politics. The focus is on the ways in which joint ethnological and artistic involvement can change the dynamics within the local community. As a case study the authors use the project Art in the Community: Redefining Heritage of the Association of Artists ‘Zemlja’ (Croatia, 2018 – 2020). The project was based on one of the most important episodes of socially and politically engaged artistic practices in Central Europe and Western Balkans: the legacy of the Association of Artists Zemlja (1929 – 1935), and naïve art and educational work of renowned painter Krsto Hegedušić. In the locality where they had worked and found inspiration – Hlebine – contemporary artists rethought their heritage and brought it to life through this project. The project was based on participatory approaches, artistic and community-empowering process that included local naïve artists from Hlebine and students of Visual Arts and Ethnology and Cultural Anthropology from Zagreb. The text analyses the potentials and challenges in working with different stakeholders on the region’s cultural scene who take part in the project in order to affirm, negotiate or redefine their culture-building strategies.","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-11-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129908019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Kashubian Lake Calling","authors":"Oliwia Murawska","doi":"10.23991/ef.v47i2.88196","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.23991/ef.v47i2.88196","url":null,"abstract":"This study leads the reader to some remote Kashubian villages, located on the shores of Lake Słupino, Poland. The residents of these villages have witnessed uncanny transformations of their once familiar lake in recent years. Through changes in color, odor and matter, Słupino has obtruded itself to call out the problem of pollution. How does the lake express itself? How does it affect the everyday life of the inhabitants? To approach the specific interaction between the lake and the inhabitants (thus non-human and human), the author conducted sensory ethnography and conversed with residents affected by the problem. The categories call, care and Stimmung are used to analyze the gathered empirical material. These categories enable a variety of perspectives on the phenomenon and, thus, let us approximate what can be characterized as posthuman: First, the lake-problem is viewed from the activity of the calling lake, and then the argumentation is built up from the activity of the caring inhabitants. Finally, both perspectives are integrated with the category Stimmung, into which the lake and the inhabitants are immersed. The present study shows that the posthuman is not merely an artificial category but can be found in the research field by an (European) ethnologist, as intersecting with everydayness, memory and activity and, thus, be perceived from an emic perspective.","PeriodicalId":211215,"journal":{"name":"Ethnologia Fennica","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129255998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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