Hands-on Approach to Knitting Culture with a Few Loose Ends

Eliza Kraatari
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Abstract

Among the many phenomena that the corona pandemic has brought to limelight is the popularity of knitting in exceptional times. Amidst growing gaps in their stocks, many craft shops announce the arrival of a new lot of popular yarns on their social media accounts, and the knitting fever has been recurrently reported on the news. In the spring of 2021, even municipality branding campaigns started to ride on this trend, calling for designs that would materialise the municipality’s character in a woolly form (e.g. Korhonen 2021). In this regard, Anna Rauhala’s dissertation on the skill of knitting in Finland is a very timely publication. With a timeframe stretching from the late 19th century up to the 2010s, the study opens a wide perspective to the chain of decades of knitting. The reader is even informed about the earliest knitted examples from the 14th or 15th centuries in present-day south-western Finland, while the focus is more on the changes in knitting culture in Finland in the past hundred and fifty years. Rauhala’s approach to studying knitting culture puts the skill of knitting at the top, which allows different takes on the topic. This is already apparent in the introductory and methodological chapters of the book. Rauhala takes as point of departure a political satire image from 2003, in which the then president and prime minister, both female, sit each on one side of a large ball of yarn, marked with the Finnish flag, knitting a piece of a woolly scarf. Rauhala analyses this image as the illustrator’s interpretation of the women leading the country stitching together the Finnish political agenda, yet she recognises that drawing a parallel between women in political power and knitting is a possibly degrading approach, or at least an attempt of one. In this way, the author starts with problematising the cultural status of knitting, articulating the activity’s everyday connotations with the feminine, the domestic sphere and the subordinate, which clearly position knitting on the feminine side with respect to the opposition between the sexes. Rauhala points out that within the 1970s’ feminist movement, textile craftwork such as knitting and embroidery were regarded as mirroring women’s societally
动手方法编织文化与一些松散的结局
在冠状病毒大流行引起关注的许多现象中,编织在特殊时期受到欢迎。在库存缺口越来越大的情况下,许多工艺品店在社交媒体上宣布了一批新的流行纱线的到来,针织热也不断出现在新闻中。在2021年春天,甚至市政品牌宣传活动也开始顺应这一趋势,呼吁设计以一种模糊的形式实现市政特色(例如Korhonen 2021)。在这方面,Anna Rauhala关于芬兰编织技能的论文是一个非常及时的出版物。这项研究的时间范围从19世纪末一直延伸到2010年代,为几十年的编织链开辟了广阔的视角。读者甚至被告知最早的针织的例子从14或15世纪在今天的芬兰西南部,而重点更多地是在芬兰编织文化的变化在过去的150年。Rauhala研究编织文化的方法将编织技能放在首位,这允许人们对这个话题有不同的看法。这在本书的导论和方法论章节中已经很明显了。劳哈拉以2003年的一张政治讽刺照片为出发点,照片中时任总统和总理都是女性,各自坐在一个印有芬兰国旗的大毛线球的一边,编织着一条羊毛围巾。劳哈拉分析了这幅图,认为插画家对领导国家的女性将芬兰的政治议程拼凑在一起的解释,但她承认,将政治权力中的女性与编织相提并论可能是一种贬低的方法,或者至少是一种尝试。通过这种方式,作者首先对编织的文化地位提出了质疑,阐明了这项活动在女性、家庭和从属领域的日常内涵,明确地将编织置于女性的一面,相对于两性之间的对立。劳哈拉指出,在20世纪70年代的女权运动中,编织和刺绣等纺织工艺被认为是社会上女性的反映
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