{"title":"Modified Techniques to Detect Antibacterial Activity of Bamboo and Natural Bamboo Fiber","authors":"Amanda J. Thompson, Bahrum Prang Rocky","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.11968","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.11968","url":null,"abstract":"Textiles that exhibit antibacterial properties are of great importance for health, sanitation, and consumer demands. Fibers that have antibacterial properties have been the target of developmental research, especially if it is a characteristic property of a natural fiber (Budama et al. 2013; Boothroyd and McCarthy 2011; Rocky and Thompson 2018; Comlekcioglu et al. 2017; Gokarneshan, Nagarajan, and Viswanath 2017; Simoncic and Tomsic 2010; Tanaka et al. 2011). Bamboo, which can be a source of fiber, has innate antibacterial properties (Rocky and Thompson 2019; Singh et al. 2010; Tanaka et al. 2011; Keski-Saari et al. 2008). However, production of bamboo fibers with natural antibacterial property has not been achieved at an industrial level. This leaves the market open to bamboo viscose which has at times been claimed to be antibacterial. Standard test methods established by ISO, ASTM and AATCC to assess antibacterial activity on textiles are not able to test specimens in various forms, such as fibers, powders, or yarns. The current methods rely on a zone of inhibition, which is less precise as it is hard to measure irregular inhibition zones, and cell recovery assessment after cell suspension with the specimen. These methods are also typically qualitative or only partially quantitative. Existing test methods may also lead to misunderstanding among manufacturers, retailers and consumers because of inconsistent grading and labelling of products (Boothroyd and McCarthy 2011; Williams et al. 2006). This study focuses on modifying suitable antibacterial test methods to provide more quantitative results. The modified methods were applied to specimens from four bamboo species, extracted natural bamboo fibers (NBFs) from the four species, commercial bamboo viscose, and three other conventional fibers.","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"82 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132983673","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Body Shapes and Fit Analysis of ASTM Size Standards for Overweight and Obese Men in the United States","authors":"Elahe Saeidi, Eonyou Shin","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.12181","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.12181","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"172 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131959569","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Slow fashion movement and sustainable consumption: Is it an opportunity for local fashion brands?","authors":"Chuanlan Liu","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.11946","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.11946","url":null,"abstract":"This study attempts to examine (1) to what degree consumers’ awareness of slow fashion movement shape their product evaluations, brand value preferences, attitudes towards, and acceptance of a Branded Sustainable Product (BSP); (2)how brand choices (global vs. local) influence consumers’ brand value preference, attitudes towards, and acceptance of a Branded Sustainable Product(BSP); and (3) if consumers with a high level of SFM more likely choose BSP offered by local brands. An online survey experiment was conducted with a national sample (N= 408) recruited through the research company of Qualtrics. The empirical study confirmed that consumers’ awareness of SFM shapes their product evaluations, brand engagement, attitudes, and acceptance of sustainable apparel products. Also, local brands do not have disadvantages in terms of competing in the sustainable product market. Creating more expressive value may help local brands cultivate more customers while offering sustainable fashion products","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130999095","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Drowned Maiden, A Sustainable and Contemporary Take on 16th Century Scottish Fashion","authors":"Cambria Sinclair, J. Rhee","doi":"10.31274/itaa.11829","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.11829","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this garment is to tell a cultural story while showcasing the techniques I have learned and illustrating the importance of sustainability and the possible applications for it in evening wear and couture applications. This outfit is part of a five-look collection called “Rose and Thistle” that was inspired by Scottish history, culture, and folklore. The formulation of this idea came about from a study abroad trip to Scotland. As I learned about the historical hardship of the Scottish people from my personal research while living there, it drove me to want to create a collection that was a visual representation of the beauty and destruction that surrounds Scotland. This collection builds upon my past sustainable and couture collections by utilizing my love for detail, knowledge on sustainable methods, strong research skills, and hand sewing techniques.","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"6 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127878999","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Investigating the Dyeing Potential of Bacterial Cellulose: Strength and Colorfastness to Perspiration and Laundering","authors":"Jennifer Harmon","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.12160","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.12160","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126781446","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"How Do Consumers Perceive Mobile Self-checkout in Fashion Retail Stores?","authors":"Yuli Liang, Seunghee Lee, J. Workman","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.12086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.12086","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeMobile self-checkout refers to scanning products using a mobile device inside a brick-and-mortar store and completing the checkout process on mobile devices. Even though mobile self-checkout has been used in other industries for several years, it is a new application in the fashion industry and only limited numbers of retailers have implemented mobile self-checkout in their stores. The purpose of this study is to understand consumers' acceptance of mobile self-checkout in fashion retail stores by analyzing determinants of using a new system.Design/methodology/approachPart of the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT) was used as a theoretical framework. Openness to experience, variety seeking and adventure shopping were added to the model. Empirical data (with 229 valid responses) were collected from the top 20 metropolitan areas in the US via Qualtrics Panel services. Exploratory factor analysis, confirmatory factor analysis, structural equation modeling and multi-group moderation were used to estimate construct validity and test the proposed hypotheses and theoretical framework.FindingsThe results indicated that consumers' intentions toward using mobile self-checkout in fashion retail stores were predicted by facilitating conditions, social influence and openness to experience. Moreover, consumers' previous experience of using mobile self-checkout in fashion retail stores moderated the path from facilitating conditions to behavioral intention and the path from social influence to behavioral intention. In addition, different genders and smartphone usage frequency did not vary significantly on the model paths.Practical implicationsThe findings show how fashion retailers can understand consumers' preference and their willingness to use mobile self-checkout in fashion retail stores. Moreover, the authors addressed ways for fashion retailers to promote mobile self-checkout in the future.Originality/valueAs a new technology in the fashion industry, literature is deficient concerning consumers' intention to adopt mobile self-checkout. This research provided suggestions for fashion retailers about adopting and improving acceptance of mobile self-checkout. Results will lead to theoretical and managerial implications for future technology development.","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"33 48 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123146430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Opportunities & Challenges Involved in Local Fabric Sourcing Strategy: A Case Study of Epic Group in Bangladesh","authors":"Md. Rafiqul Islam Rana, S. Munir","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.12119","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.12119","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"263 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114231393","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Farm to Fashion: Suri Alpaca With Spiral Patternmaking","authors":"Jeremy M. Bernardoni, Mary Ruppert-Stroescu","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.12131","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.12131","url":null,"abstract":"This is the first garment made from 80% Suri Alpaca, grown in the US and carded, spun, and woven in northern Italy. Its sustainable characteristics are that it is entirely biodegradable, composed of only natural materials in natural colors with no dyes or finishes. Of the two breeds of Alpaca, Suri is less common and has longer more lustrous fibers than huacaya, and when currently used for textiles is rarely seen as a woven apparel fabric. The design criteria were to make a runway ensemble within the luxury price point, that has some transformable element to encourage extended use, reflects a thoughtful design process grounded in the fabric itself, includes only natural colors and components, and integrates the Suri Alpaca locks (freshly sheared fibers) in some way. The garment looks complex, yet the patterns, draped in a spiral shape, are quite simple with minimal seaming.","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"75 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115320464","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Arienne McCracken, M. Damhorst, Eulanda A. Sanders
{"title":"Breaking Cover: Plus-size Transgressive Dress on YouTube","authors":"Arienne McCracken, M. Damhorst, Eulanda A. Sanders","doi":"10.31274/itaa.11808","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.11808","url":null,"abstract":"Non-stigmatizing depictions of plus-size lovers of fashion are not easily found in traditional mass media, but in social media, fat fashion enthusiasts can readily be found. The purpose of this study was to investigate the little-studied phenomenon of plus-size YouTube content creators who make videos about fat fashion. To that end, thirteen individuals who wear plus-size women’s apparel took part in semi-structured interviews. A major theme found in the data analysis was transgression. Interview participants were staunch advocates of breaking discriminatory, unspoken societal rules that constrained them, especially in relation to dress. Three subthemes were found in relation to transgression: visibility, representation and agency. Embracing visibility, as seen in interviewees’ performance of fatness in public and in social media, may help to portray fatness as a human characteristic that is just as ‘normal’ as thinness. Serving as a positive role model to others was also embraced by participants, who hoped to assist their viewers in dealing with the consequences of living in the fatphobic US culture. The interviewees demonstrated and promoted agency through fashion, in marked contrast to their past experiences of being powerless and disparaged because of their size. Through celebration of mainstream, conforming fashion, the fat fashion vloggers are transgressive by joyfully wearing styles which previously were discouraged or often unavailable for plus-size consumers.","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"37 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123753895","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Understanding the Effect of Body Comparison, Desire to Be Popular, and Social Media Engagement on Body Satisfaction","authors":"Dawn M Michaelson, J. Yoo, Sheri L. Dragoo","doi":"10.31274/ITAA.12117","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/ITAA.12117","url":null,"abstract":"Research on body image identifies proposed factors that lead to body dissatisfaction. Studies have found that young women who frequently see media images of the ideal thin body standard demonstrate lower body satisfaction. The goal of this study is to identify the effect of body comparison, desire to be popular, and social media engagement on body satisfaction. An online survey utilizing established measures for body comparison, desire to be popular - reading fashion frequency and body area satisfaction was used with 132 responses. Four hypotheses were analyzed with one-way ANOVA, resulting in three statistically significant findings. Findings were contrary to previous research and predictive hypotheses. Study participants were satisfied with their appearance, even when frequently viewing and comparing themselves to the cultural ideal and fashion trends. Future research is needed to investigate personality variables and susceptibility to media exposure and social media influence.","PeriodicalId":129029,"journal":{"name":"Pivoting for the Pandemic","volume":"127 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116784015","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}