Jerry Prosper Medernach, Julian Henz, Daniel Memmert, Xavier Sanchez
{"title":"The Climbing Movement Repertoire in Olympic Bouldering: Exploring Its Role in Decision-Making, Performance, and Time Constraint Management.","authors":"Jerry Prosper Medernach, Julian Henz, Daniel Memmert, Xavier Sanchez","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2485188","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2485188","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>In Olympic bouldering, climbers must solve a series of boulders, which are short routes set on low-height climbing walls. Time constraints imposed by competition regulations limit the time available for strategic decisions and climbing attempts. An extensive climbing movement repertoire helps climbers to identify meaningful movement patterns and anticipate climbing solutions. Expert routesetters-those climbers responsible for setting boulders-have been described to possess an extensive climbing movement repertoire. This study explored the role of the movement repertoire as an underlying cognitive system in decision-making, climbing performance, and time constraint management in Olympic bouldering. A total of 48 elite climbers-including 24 climbers with professional routesetting expertise (RS) and 24 climbers without any routesetting expertise (NR)-were tasked with climbing two boulders under varying time constraints (B1: four minutes; B2: two minutes). Data collected included non-stored climbing movements, strategic decision-making, and performance-related variables. In both boulders, the RS group had fewer non-stored climbing movements, showed enhanced decision-making skills (shorter previewing times, more effective climbing solutions, fewer strategic adjustments), and achieved better climbing performances (higher top rates, fewer attempts, higher holds in best attempts). Furthermore, in B2, the RS group was less perturbed by increased time constraints, showing a smaller decline in non-stored climbing movements, strategic decision-making, and climbing performance compared to the NR group. Routesetting expertise appears to be a relevant performance parameter in climbing. Climbers with such expertise benefit from their extensive movement repertoire to make efficient decisions, optimize performance, and effectively manage time constraints.</p>","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-12"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144046889","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Luis Andreu-Caravaca, Domingo J Ramos-Campo, José Moncada-Jiménez, Jacobo Á Rubio-Arias
{"title":"Role of Maximum and Explosive Strength in the Relationship Between the Expanded Disability Status Scale (EDSS) and Functional Capacity in People with Multiple Sclerosis: A Mediation Analysis.","authors":"Luis Andreu-Caravaca, Domingo J Ramos-Campo, José Moncada-Jiménez, Jacobo Á Rubio-Arias","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2490165","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2490165","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The relationship between functional capacity and disability status in individuals with Multiple Sclerosis (MS) is well established. However, to date, the interference of lower limb strength in this classic correlation has not been studied. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the mediating role of muscle lower limb strength variables, including maximum strength (MVIC) and explosive strength (RFD), in the relationship between the disability status, measured by Expanded Disability Status Scale (EDSS), and functional test outcomes in a MS sample. A total of 49 patients performed 4 functional tests: timed up-and-go test (TUG), sit-to-stand (STS), 10-meter walk test (10MWT), and 6-minute walk test (6MWT), as well as the measurement of MVIC and RFD. A statistical mediation analysis was conducted to examine the influence of maximum and explosive strength on the relationship between EDSS and functional capacity. Regarding MVIC, the effect of EDSS on the 6MWT (indirect effect = 48%, <i>p</i> = .013), 10MWT (indirect effect = 18.1%, <i>p</i> = .015) and TUG test (indirect effect = 27.2%, <i>p</i> = .003) decreased. Regarding RFD late (0-200), the effect of EDSS on the 6MWT (indirect effect = 34.8% <i>p</i> = .0048), 10MWT (indirect effect = 18.0%, <i>p</i> = .021) and TUG test (indirect effect = 25.0%, <i>p</i> = .014) decreased. MVIC and RFD late variables play a significant role and influence the relationship between the EDSS and functional capacity.</p>","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-8"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144028443","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"VLa<sub>max</sub> Correlates Strongly With Glycolytic Performance.","authors":"Boris Clark, Paul W Macdermid","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2481176","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2481176","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p><math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> estimates an athlete's maximal-glycolytic rate. This study aimed to determine the relationships between the <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> and cycle ergometry efforts with a high-glycolytic energy contribution and the influence of <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> and <math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>VO</mi></mrow><mrow><mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></mrow></mrow></msub></mrow></math> on respiratory compensation point. Eleven national-international endurance cyclists (<math><mrow><msub><mrow><mi>VO</mi></mrow><mrow><mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></mrow></mrow></msub></mrow></math> = 70.7 ± 5.9 ml·kg<sup>-1</sup>·min<sup>-1</sup>) completed a 15-s isokinetic-test with pre- and postlactate measurements to determine <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math>, a 1-min maximal effort, and a ramp test to exhaustion in a single test session. The main findings showed strong relationships between <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> and the mean absolute (<i>r</i> = 0.83, <i>p</i> = .002) and relative (<i>r</i> = 0.88, <i>p</i> = .0004) power during the lactic interval of the 15-s isokinetic-test. This relationship weakened when comparing <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> with mean absolute (<i>r</i> = 0.52, <i>p</i> = .098) and relative (<i>r</i> = 0.29, <i>p</i> = .393) power during a 1-min maximal effort. Combining the <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> and <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mrow><msub><mrow><mrow><mi>O</mi></mrow></mrow><mrow><mn>2</mn><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> data through multiple regression resulted in a positive effect on the estimation of respiratory compensation point. It was concluded that the <math><mrow><mover><mrow><mtext> </mtext><mi>V</mi></mrow><mo>˙</mo></mover></mrow><mi>L</mi><mrow><msub><mi>a</mi><mrow><mo>max</mo></mrow></msub></mrow></math> is a relevant indicator of maximal glycolytic rate. However, this metric currently lacks scientific validation as an accurate estimate of glycolytic rate and provides minimal extra information","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-8"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144060802","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Kase J Pennartz, Michael R Perlet, Genevieve B Batman, Kyndall V Ransom, Joshua L Keller
{"title":"Skeletal Muscle Resaturation Relates to Aerobic Fitness in Adults Participating in Strength and Aerobic Exercises.","authors":"Kase J Pennartz, Michael R Perlet, Genevieve B Batman, Kyndall V Ransom, Joshua L Keller","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2482108","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2482108","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p><b>Purpose</b>: This study examined differences in metrics of skeletal muscle re-saturation between strength and aerobically oriented individuals and potential relations between re-saturation and aerobic fitness. <b>Methods</b>: Forty-nine healthy young adult men and women completed body composition analysis, a maximal lower-body strength assessment, a maximal aerobic fitness (<math><mrow><mover><mtext>V</mtext><mo>.</mo></mover><msub><mtext>O</mtext><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math>) test, and a near-infrared spectroscopy vascular occlusion test (NIRS+VOT). Skeletal muscle tissue oxygenation (StO<sub>2</sub>), oxygenated hemoglobin (O<sub>2</sub>Hb), and deoxygenated (HHb) hemoglobin were collected from a NIRS device attached to the vastus lateralis. Re-saturation measures (e.g. upslope, re-saturation max, and hypersaturation area under the curve (AUC)) were derived from the reperfusion phase of the NIRS+VOT. <b>Results</b>: All O<sub>2</sub>Hb and StO<sub>2</sub> re-saturation metrics, particularly upslope (<i>r</i> = 0.622 and <i>r</i> = -.613, respectively), were significantly (<i>p</i> < .05) related to <math><mrow><mover><mtext>V</mtext><mo>.</mo></mover><msub><mtext>O</mtext><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math>. In the strength group, O<sub>2</sub>Hb and HHb upslope (<i>r</i> = 0.584; <i>p</i> < .001; <i>r</i> = -.550; <i>p</i> = .001, respectively) and re-saturation max (<i>r</i> = 0.372; <i>p</i> = .036; <i>r</i> = .562, <i>p</i> < .001, respectively) were significantly related to <math><mrow><mover><mtext>V</mtext><mo>.</mo></mover><msub><mtext>O</mtext><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math>. For the aerobic group, O<sub>2</sub>Hb upslope (<i>r</i> = .486; <i>p</i> = .048), re-saturation max (<i>r</i> = 0.535; <i>p</i> = .027), and hypersaturation AUC (<i>r</i> = 0.564; <i>p</i> = .018) were significantly related to <math><mrow><mover><mtext>V</mtext><mo>.</mo></mover><msub><mtext>O</mtext><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math>. The aerobic group had significantly (<i>p</i> = .011; BF<sub>10</sub> = 8.043) greater O<sub>2</sub>Hb upslope (1.6 ± .789 vs. 1.1 ± .474 A.U.s<sup>-1</sup>) and (<i>p</i> = .027; BF<sub>10</sub> = 2.929) hypersaturation AUC (1158.3 ± 545.02 vs. 860.4 ± 365.35 A.U.s<sup>-1</sup>) than the strength group. <b>Conclusion</b>: Upslope was the most related to <math><mrow><mover><mtext>V</mtext><mo>.</mo></mover><msub><mtext>O</mtext><mrow><mn>2</mn><mi>max</mi></mrow></msub></mrow></math> in strength and aerobically oriented adults. Interestingly, O<sub>2</sub>Hb re-saturation max may not be sensitive to differences between routine strength and aerobic exercise and may reflect shared underlying physiological mechanisms of the predominant fitness orientation.</p>","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-9"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144061729","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Mateus S Dias, Sandra M S F Freitas, Paulo B de Freitas
{"title":"Multi-Joint Synergy in Foot Height Stabilization Across Different Running Speeds: An Uncontrolled Manifold Analysis.","authors":"Mateus S Dias, Sandra M S F Freitas, Paulo B de Freitas","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2480143","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2480143","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The uncontrolled manifold (UCM) framework was employed to investigate the presence of a multi-joint synergy stabilizing foot height during the swing phase of treadmill running and its potential dependence on running speed. Experienced runners (<i>N</i> = 28; aged 22-51) ran on an instrumented treadmill set at three different speeds: 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5 m/s. Kinematic data were utilized to calculate UCM outcomes: variances in the joint space that had no effect (<i>V</i><sub><i>UCM</i></sub>) and those that influenced (<i>V</i><sub><i>ORT</i></sub>) foot height, and the synergy index (Δ<i>V</i><sub><i>Z</i></sub>, the normalized difference between <i>V</i><sub><i>UCM</i></sub> and <i>V</i><sub><i>ORT</i></sub>). They were computed for each normalized frame (1-100%) of the swing phase and averaged in 10% intervals. <i>ΔV</i><sub>Z</sub> was greater than zero and varied across the swing phase, being lowest at 51-60% and highest at 81-100%. <i>ΔV</i><sub>Z</sub> was the lowest at the slowest speed in the second half of the swing phase, because of a low <i>V</i><sub><i>UCM</i></sub>. The findings indicate that the CNS organizes a multi-joint synergy to stabilize foot height, with the strongest synergy at the end of the swing phase to ensure safe foot placement and landing. Faster running speeds enhance this synergy, allowing greater adaptability to perturbations, while slower speeds lead to a more cautious approach, reducing overall variance.</p>","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-10"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144050716","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Relationship Between High-Quality Physical Education, Physical Literacy, and Physical Activity Participation: A Retrospective Study From U.S. College Students.","authors":"Xiaoxia Zhang, Joonkoo Yun","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2472943","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2472943","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Physical education (PE) participation at school age is suggested to increase physical activity levels in adulthood. However, there is a limited understanding of the underlying mechanism in this relationship between PE and physical activity (PA). This study aimed to examine how the quality of PE in high school is associated with future physical activity engagement in young adulthood and whether physical literacy is a mediator in this relationship. A group of 280 college students (62.1% women; M<sub>age</sub> = 20.09, SD = 2.04) were recruited from 11 universities in the United States. The students filled out an online survey measuring the quality of PE in high school, leisure-time physical activity, and physical literacy. A path analysis revealed a good fit of the mediation model with sex as a covariate (χ<sup>2</sup>/df = 1.73, <i>p</i> = .02; CFI = 0.99; IFI = 0.99; TLI = 0.98; RMSEA = 0.05, 90% CI [0.02, 0.08]). Quality of PE has a significant direct association (β = 0.12) with physical activity and an indirect association with physical activity through physical literacy (β = 0.05). The findings illustrate that high-quality high school PE is associated with physical activity directly and indirectly through physical literacy. It is critical to provide high-quality high school PE by addressing the environment, curriculum, instruction, and assessment to develop physical literacy and physical activity participation. Improving physical literacy through high-quality PE and other settings (e.g., school sports and community clubs) is a viable way to promote PA participation.</p>","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-10"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143813225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Alexis Marcotte-Chénard, Hashim Islam, Garett S Jackson, Jonathan P Little
{"title":"Do Exercise Pattern and Intensity Influence Affective and Enjoyment Responses in Active Adults? A Secondary Analysis.","authors":"Alexis Marcotte-Chénard, Hashim Islam, Garett S Jackson, Jonathan P Little","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2471880","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2471880","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The purpose of the present study was to compare the ratings of perceived exertion (RPE), affective (Feeling Scale), and remembered enjoyment (Physical Activity Enjoyment Scale) responses following different exercise intensities/patterns and to investigate possible associations with physiological parameters in active adults. In a randomized crossover trial, 16 active adults (29.9 ± 3.2 years; 8 males/8 females) performed three different conditions: moderate continuous exercise (MCE) at 70% lactate threshold (LT), heavy continuous exercise (HCE) at 10% of the difference between LT and VO<sub>2</sub> peak, and heavy interval exercise (HIE) wherein intensity matched HCE but performed as 1-minute on:off with stationary rest in between. RPE (CR10) and affect were evaluated during exercise while remembered enjoyment was assessed at the end of each exercise session. Average RPE was significantly different (<i>p</i> = .001; η<sub>p</sub><sup>2</sup> = .744) between all three exercise modalities (MCE = 2.6 ± 0.8, HCE = 5.1 ± 1.0; HIE = 3.5 ± 0.9; <i>p</i> ≤.001). Average affect during exercise was also significantly different (<i>p</i> = .001; η<sub>p</sub><sup>2</sup> = .427) with post hoc testing revealing lower affect for HCE compared to MCE (<i>p</i> = .002) and HIE (<i>p</i> = .008). Similar results were observed for affect nadir (lowest affect during exercise; MCE = 3.1 ± 1.3; HCE = 1.2 ± 1.7; HIE = 2.4 ± 1.6; <i>p</i> = .001; η<sub>p</sub><sup>2</sup> = .470). Remembered enjoyment was not statistically different between modalities (MCE = 98 ± 18; HCE = 96 ± 17; HIE = 100 ± 16; <i>p</i> = .468; η<sub>p</sub><sup>2</sup> = .049), but more people preferred HCE (10/16; 62.5%) compared with both HIE (4/16; 25%) and MCE (2/16; 12.5%) (<i>p</i> = .039): Despite the higher average RPE and lower affect during HCE, no difference was observed for remembered exercise enjoyment, and active individuals seem to prefer this exercise modality compared with HIE or MCE.</p>","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":" ","pages":"1-10"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143782302","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"REVIEW PANEL CHAIRS AND REVIEWERS.","authors":"","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2471810","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2025.2471810","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":"96 sup1","pages":"S11-S13"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-03-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144035240","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"PREFACE.","authors":"Tan Leng Goh","doi":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2471808","DOIUrl":"10.1080/02701367.2025.2471808","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":94191,"journal":{"name":"Research quarterly for exercise and sport","volume":"96 sup1","pages":"S1"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-03-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143702613","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}