Luxury-History Culture Consumption最新文献

{"title":"\"Some of my Customers […] Take off Their Rolex Prior to a Client Meeting\" Luxury Display at Work and the Social (Re)Construction of the Organizational Image","authors":"Mario D. Schultz, Peter Seele","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2022.2045544","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2022.2045544","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In this study, we follow-up on the social construction of an organizational image focusing on the role of luxury watches worn at work. In this way, we discuss the crucial role of employees' aesthetic appearance as a projector of organizational values to internal and external audiences. Drawing on the theoretical lenses of gestalt theory and the literature on aesthetics of labour, we examine the dynamics of luxury display in organizational settings via a qualitative approach, a netnography based on 193 topical entries. The netnography was guided by a pre-study conducting interviews with high level experts from the luxury watch industry. Our findings show that the display of a luxury watch at work can contribute to a harmonious organizational image. However, professional settings exist where the watch triggers an inconsistency in an employee's appearance relative to the organization that is being represented. Thus, disturbing the overall organizational image. Adopting a gestalt theoretical perspective to this social construction process, we define the \"organizational gestalt\": as a dynamic projection of organizational values informed and conveyed by aesthetic, organizational representations (in this study: employees' wristwatches). We theorize that a gestalt-switch – a conversion of a previously stable organizational image – occurs when an employee's appearance projects values that conflict with the established aesthetic, organizational representations. As a consequence, the authenticity and credibility of the employee and the organization may suffer.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49041528","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mediated Enjoyment- Representations of Luxury in the Web Discourse of Lifestyle Magazines","authors":"Samuel André Alves Mateus","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2022.2045545","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2022.2045545","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Luxury is a 913BE global industry spanning multiple categories according to the Boston Consulting Group, and it represents a major market worldwide, one that has registered a tremendous growth in the last decade. Brands have developed a significant presence in the digital space and consumers have, indeed, augmented their purchases in the online environment. Even though there are a few studies about luxury in media and magazines there seems to be an absence of luxury studies on online magazines. More important, the examination of discursive representations of luxury in the online media has not, until now, deserved much attention. This paper explores the discursive construction and representations of luxury on the top 5 web magazines on luxury lifestyle. It concludes that Leisure, Hedonism, Carpe Diem, Singularity, Escape and Magnificence form the pentactic axis from which web magazines audiences take part in luxury discourse. By exposing this discursive pentactic construct, as well as by uncovering luxury web magazines social-cultural practices, linguistic, visual and strategic discursive principles, this investigation sheds light into the discursive mechanisms through which web magazines luxury discourse occurs. At the same time, the paper found that web magazines portrait luxury standing between two opposing poles: on one hand, luxury discourse is associated with the display of social status; on other hand, it is linked with personal gratification in a clear alignment with postmodern principles of Individualism, Hedonism and Indulgence.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42035672","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"An Ueber to take your Brand to the next level","authors":"Pablo D. Lopez Zadicoff, J. Kuehlwein","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2022.2095480","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2022.2095480","url":null,"abstract":"In this conversation with J.P. Kuehlwein, we discuss the ethos of the Ueber-Brands TM , and we preview the 6-step method the author develops in his new book Brand Elevation to take any brand to this mythological plane . Ueber-Brands TM the term coined","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46697583","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Luxury, Voluptuousity, Levinas: on Jan Steen and Giovanni Segantini","authors":"J. Armitage","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2022.2117665","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2022.2117665","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article deals with the concepts of luxury and voluptuousity, the abundant and the sensual, and their position in the history of art, for luxury and voluptuosity are rarely mentioned in single works of art by name. The article is an encounter with the history of art, particularly as it is manifested in two paintings that do at least reference luxury, the Golden Age Dutch artist Jan Steen’s Beware of Luxury (1633), and the Symbolist stateless artist Giovanni Segantini’s The Punishment of Luxury (1891). To understand Steen’s and Segantini’s conceptions of luxury and voluptuosity, and thus to build a foundation for an interpretation of their most important ideas regarding profligate and often exaggerated subjects and objects, it is argued that researchers can usefully explore Steen’s and Segantini’s engagement with luxury and voluptuousity from the perspective of French philosopher Emmanuel Levinas’ phenomenological explanations of art, knowledge, and ontology where these two concepts are appreciated not as aesthetic categories but as aspects of desire and happiness, need, the untouchable in human contact, and as the future in the present. Deliberating the wider philosophical implications of why luxury and voluptuosity are not continually invoked by artists and writers on art history, the article emphasizes their significance for contemporary American artists such as Jeff Koons and for contemporary art history whilst concluding that, whereas Levinas’ theorizations and interpretations of the relationship between luxury and voluptuousity are intellectually stimulating, they are also problematic because, it is suggested, luxury and voluptuousity are a continuum.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46028542","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Democratic luxury: An oxymoron?","authors":"Christopher J. Berry","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00003_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00003_1","url":null,"abstract":"The expression the ‘democratization of luxury’ has become commonplace and as such its meaning is rarely, if ever, investigated. I acknowledge that its very commonplaceness would seem to demonstrate that it is a mere façon de parler to which too much weight\u0000 should not be given. Nonetheless, I believe that an investigation of the assumptions that underlie the phrase, and the phenomenon it seemingly captures, is potentially worthwhile, as evidenced by the fact that its usage is not uniform, being subject to both negative and neutral interpretations.\u0000 This brief article is also a gesture towards my making-amends for my own passing, non-inquisitive casual second-hand use of the term. Finally, I advert briefly to its bearing on my own conceptual analysis.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90281881","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Luxury industry as a pioneer for sustainability through improved communication: A consumer perspective","authors":"Preethi Rajaprakasam","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00004_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00004_1","url":null,"abstract":"Sustainability has become a pervasive issue for luxury businesses ever since the tendency towards mass luxury production. In this context, the emerging middle class from the Global South positions itself as the target consumers for the current landscape. The purpose of this article\u0000 is to examine how luxury brand marketers can balance sustainability measures and communications while maintaining their exclusivity in this evolving market. Prior research suggests that consumers do not regard luxury and sustainability as compatible, whilst the concept of ‘sustainable\u0000 luxury’ is gaining attention among researchers and businesses. This article explores how this apparent contradiction, or even paradox, can be negotiated to implement sustainable luxury in practice. Existing research has highlighted the growing yet fragmented evidence on the new wave\u0000 of consumers from the Global South, in particular India and Latin America. Twenty-one semi-structured interviews were conducted with the Indian middle class followed by a thematic analysis. This article looked into three major aspects: (1) the existing knowledge on luxury‐sustainability\u0000 relationship, (2) the existence of an attitude‐behaviour gap, and (3) the benefits of improved communication from businesses to consumers. A new consumer perspective emerged from the study, which can be added to existing literature, namely a positive correlation (rather than an inherent\u0000 contradiction) between the two concepts of ‘luxury’ and ‘sustainability’. This can make the luxury industry a pioneer for sustainability through improved, nuanced communication. The positive correlation was based on consumers’ belief in buying a certain package\u0000 when purchasing a luxury product that includes sustainability as a highly desirable inherent trait due to its high price and nature of the concept. The findings further highlight a shift in consumers’ mind that demands improved communication in the form of grounded measures and two-way\u0000 dialogue to tackle lack of transparency and trust on the industry. Increased communication is identified to be a positive influence on consumer purchase decisions if convincing forms of communication are included. By adding a second viewpoint, this article is seen as bridging the gap between\u0000 the scholarly perspective of convergence (sustainable luxury) and the consumer perspective of controversy (contradiction). The discussion elaborates on what it means for theory and practice, and some pragmatic recommendations are made in the conclusion. This future is mainly based on communication,\u0000 which helps to break down the luxury‐sustainability contradiction and the existing attitude‐behaviour gap.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73639443","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Can luxury perform miracles?","authors":"P. Mathieu","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00002_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00002_2","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87097103","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Craftsmanship: Interview with Roger W. Smith, horologist","authors":"Shaun Borstrock","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00006_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00006_7","url":null,"abstract":"In contemporary terms, luxury has come to mean many things to many people. It is no longer commonly defined within the confines of true meaning and understanding of skill, craftsmanship, heritage and provenance. Materials do not necessarily have to be the best; the maker no longer needs\u0000 to have an understanding of the full process of manufacture; they can be skilled in one operation thus removing them from the ‘heart’ of the product. In this interview with master horologist Roger W. Smith, we explore the true meaning of craftsmanship from a mastercraftsman, one\u0000 of the few people in the world who can make a watch from start to finish. For a master horologist like Roger W. Smith, the fundamental definition of luxury is unchanging.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86123787","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Exploring disrupting scenarios in the fashion retail and communication paradigms","authors":"V. Iannilli, Vittorio Linfante","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00005_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00005_1","url":null,"abstract":"The growing complexity in the economic sphere, the accelerating rate of change, the new information technology and the globalization of cultural processes create a new landscape. The new tech habits are reshaping customer behaviours and businesses. Contaminations, hybridizations and\u0000 negotiations increasingly characterize today’s retail landscape. The future of retail is connected to how well brands adapt and take advantage of digital change. Within this framework, the fashion system can catch the opportunity to reflect and redesign the entire production and cultural\u0000 system. Today, the shopping experience is realized thanks to multiform sensory and informational solicitations and the different distribution and communication channels, both physical and digital, defining new needs, strategies, technologies and even new aesthetic forms. In this renewed context,\u0000 retail becomes increasingly relevant both in its physical and digital form and above all in the ‘phygital’ one, between virtual and real. A form that creates new sales space through the creation of experiences and interactions between the physical space and the intangibility of\u0000 the digital world: from the multichannel, we move towards increasingly integrated strategies that use omnichannel sales and communication methods. In this context, new paradigms and new retail concepts emerge, bridging communication and distribution. Communication actions that are increasingly\u0000 transversal, enriched with new languages and tools capable of reverberating the aura of fashion through the creation of real cultural palimpsests such as the Dior Talks and Possible Conversations by Prada, the Alexander McQueen Floral Challenge or the Trivia by Salvatore Ferragamo. Projects\u0000 between communication, art and marketing that redefine the fashion point of view on the relationship between real and digital; as well as the Sunnei Canvas project that uses 3D design tools both for the development of the collection and for the creation of animated avatars that will guide\u0000 the final translation of the brand’s lexicon.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73232979","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sustainable Luxury and Jewelry, Ivan Coste-Manière and Miguel Ángel Gardetti (eds) (2021)","authors":"Ken Kweku Nimo","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00007_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00007_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Sustainable Luxury and Jewelry, Ivan Coste-Manière and Miguel Ángel Gardetti (eds) (2021)Singapore: Springer, 229 pp.,ISBN 978-9-81162-454-4, e-book, £87.50","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82523175","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}