{"title":":The Invention of the Colonial Americas: Data, Architecture, and the Archives of the Indies, 1781–1844","authors":"Miruna Achim","doi":"10.1086/725993","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725993","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45735518","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A Cultural History of Objects","authors":"C. van Eck","doi":"10.1086/725988","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725988","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"29 1","pages":"294 - 300"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42478379","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Artifacts: How We Think and Write about Found Objects","authors":"Abigail Baker","doi":"10.1086/725994","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725994","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42097588","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Die Schatzjäger des Kaisers: Deutsche Archäologen auf Beutezug im Orient","authors":"Suzanne L. Marchand","doi":"10.1086/725995","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725995","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43023054","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Gothic: An Illustrated History","authors":"Matthew Reeve","doi":"10.1086/725991","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725991","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47688926","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Historical Museum","authors":"J. Huizinga, M. Gosselink, Alice Tetley-Paul","doi":"10.17077/0003-4827.6121","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.17077/0003-4827.6121","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"29 1","pages":"276 - 293"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46719773","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Shocking! Les mondes surréalistes d’Elsa Schiaparelli","authors":"Lacey Minot","doi":"10.1086/725998","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725998","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"29 1","pages":"327 - 331"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43291832","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Time’s Witness: History in the Age of Romanticism","authors":"W. Stenhouse","doi":"10.1086/725989","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725989","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43302292","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Mimicking the Mode: The Fashionable Dress of Working-Class San Franciscans, 1880–95","authors":"Laura L. Camerlengo","doi":"10.1086/725986","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725986","url":null,"abstract":"In the late nineteenth century, the fashionable garments of women in the United States drew inspiration from the abundance of contemporary sources available to them, ranging from fashion plates in women’s periodicals to sewing patterns and ready-to-wear clothing. As Joan Severa details in her seminal book Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840–1900 (1995), studio photographs from the time demonstrate precisely how high fashion was reinterpreted by working-class Americans in terms of materials, fit, and wear to suit their particular needs and lifestyles. One portrait album recently discovered at an estate sale illustrates Severa’s thesis, and this article offers a close examination of the album in tandem with contemporary fashion coverage in newspapers and elsewhere, social history, and demographics specific to working-class San Francisco. A focused regional case study, it offers insight into dress codes at a particular place and time that have to date been little studied by fashion scholars.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"29 1","pages":"256 - 275"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46878122","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"UNDERFOOT: Elizabeth Price","authors":"Alexander Watt","doi":"10.1086/725997","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725997","url":null,"abstract":"On the cover of my copy of The Blue Guide to Victorian Architecture, a book I try to carry with me, despite its bulk, whenever I am back in Britain, is a photograph of a full-size variant of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. Built using a combination of polychrome brick and vitreous enamel tiles with terracotta detailing, it is an extraordinary expression of the parallels that John Ruskin drew between the merchant princes of the Renaissance and the modern industrial magnates who drove the Victorian economy. This building was Templeton’s Carpet Factory, designed by William Leiper in 1889, and it still stands overlooking Glasgow Green, although the manufacture of floor coverings has long since moved elsewhere. James Templeton, the founder of the business, was himself a classic example of the Victorian entrepreneur. Born in 1802 in a remote farming community on the west coast of Scotland, he moved to Glasgow and then on to Liverpool to learn the drapery trade, before making a small fortune in Mexico, which enabled him to set up his own business in his homeland. After some initial success as a shawl manufacturer in Paisley, he spotted the potential of a new chenille processing technique that could be better applied to carpets. In essence, this involved weaving together tufts of colored wool and treating the material with heated rollers to produce a soft, “frizzy” surface, which could retain intricate, colorful patterns. The method was both cheaper than that of the handtufted Axminster carpets and more adaptable for producing complete seamless carpets to cover any floor area. Templeton initially used the process to","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"29 1","pages":"324 - 327"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42496124","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}