West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture最新文献

{"title":":<i>Art and Ocean Objects of Early Modern Eurasia: Shells, Bodies, and Materiality</i>","authors":"Marsely Kehoe","doi":"10.1086/728342","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728342","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"59 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532941","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":":<i>Rhapsodic Objects: Art, Materiality, Agency</i>","authors":"Antonia Behan","doi":"10.1086/728343","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728343","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article Book ReviewsRhapsodic Objects: Art, Materiality, Agency. Yaëlle Biro and Noémie Étienne, eds. Berlin: De Gruyter, 2022. 236 pp.; 88 color ills. Cloth $80.00. ISBN 9783110656640Antonia BehanAntonia Behan Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728343 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"484 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532949","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Bernat Klein: Design in Colour","authors":"Christine Boydell","doi":"10.1086/728345","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728345","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article Exhibition ReviewsBernat Klein: Design in Colour National Museums of Scotland, EdinburghNOVEMBER 5, 2022–APRIL 23, 2023 Catalogue. Bernat Klein. Edited by Mary Schoeser and Alison Harley. Glasgow: Bernat Klein Foundation, 2022. 224 pp.; 250 ills. Paper £35. ISBN 9781399930598Christine BoydellChristine Boydell Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728345 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"199 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532953","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Korean Fashion: From Royal Court to Runway","authors":"Minjee Kim","doi":"10.1086/728344","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728344","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article Exhibition ReviewsKorean Fashion: From Royal Court to Runway The George Washington University Museum and the Textile MuseumAUGUST 19–DECEMBER 22, 2022Hallyu! The Korean WaveVictoria and Albert Museum in LondonSEPTEMBER 24, 2022–JUNE 25, 2023 Catalogue. Hallyu! The Korean Wave. Edited by Rosalie Kim. London: V&A, 2022. 240 pp., ills. throughout. Cloth, $40. ISBN 9781838510336Minjee KimMinjee Kim Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728344 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"29 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532946","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":":<i>The Art of Cloth in Mughal India</i>","authors":"Sugata Ray","doi":"10.1086/728338","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728338","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article Book ReviewsThe Art of Cloth in Mughal India. Sylvia Houghteling. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2022. 280 pp.; 162 color ills., 1 table. Hardcover $65.00. ISBN 9780691215785Sugata RaySugata Ray Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728338 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"20 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532947","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"“The Uniformity of a Distinctive National Character”: Loops, Knots, and Bernardo de Gálvez’s Calligraphic Equestrian Portrait","authors":"Aaron M. Hyman","doi":"10.1086/728331","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728331","url":null,"abstract":"This essay treats an extraordinary equestrian portrait of the New Spanish viceroy Bernardo de Gálvez created from little more than a looping, calligraphic line. Unique among viceregal painting, it has eluded definitive scholarly interpretation. A previously unexplored, printed calligraphic model is proposed. At stake, however, is not just source hunting but a reappraisal of the picture’s intellectual context within a network of the period’s renowned academicians and their thinking about handwriting. Moreover, new technical findings allow a revised dating of the picture in exposing the sitter’s shifting identity. What emerges is a political reading of the portrait’s original function as an act of deference to the Spanish crown and sign of investment in the renewal of Iberian culture’s proper formation of imperial citizens—on both sides of the Atlantic. Ultimately, the essay thus points to the art-historical potential of wrestling with the history of writing, a domain often segregated from other visual arts but one that was critical for early modern artists and their audiences.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532772","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Process: Design Drawings from the Rijksmuseum, 1500–1900","authors":"Charles Parley","doi":"10.1086/728346","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728346","url":null,"abstract":"Previous article Exhibition ReviewsProcess: Design Drawings from the Rijksmuseum, 1500–1900 Design Museum Den Bosch, ‘s HerzogenboschNOVEMBER 5, 2022–FEBRUARY 12, 2023Fondation Custodia, ParisFEBRUARY 25–MAY 14, 2023 Catalogue. Process: Design Drawings from the Rijksmuseum, 1500–1900. Reinier Baarsen. Rotterdam: nai010 publishers, 2022. 404 pp.; 250 b/w ills. Paper €59.95. ISBN 9789462087354Charles ParleyCharles Parley Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728346 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"202 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532773","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Notes on the Prehistory of Camouflage and Mimicry as Cultural Techniques","authors":"Caroline van Eck","doi":"10.1086/728330","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728330","url":null,"abstract":"The relations between human and animal camouflage have rarely been investigated. Current scholarship, focusing on the evolutionary and military aspects of camouflage, has overshadowed earlier thinking about camouflage and mimicry as shared animal and human features. Reconstructing some of the main elements of those early views, this article argues that, in humans, camouflage should be considered as a cultural technique. Three stages in the “prehistory” of camouflage, which are also three varieties of cultural contexts, are discussed: the hunt, in which camouflage behavior is shared by animals and humans; camouflage behavior among humans, analyzed in terms of simulation and conceived or figured in terms of animal behavior; and camouflage seen as the manifestation of emerging human material culture.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532951","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":":<i>The Material Culture of Basketry: Practice, Skill and Embodied Knowledge</i>","authors":"Jennifer Way","doi":"10.1086/728341","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728341","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article Book ReviewsThe Material Culture of Basketry: Practice, Skill and Embodied Knowledge. Stephanie Bunn and Victoria Mitchell, eds. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021. 312 pp.; 143 color ills. Paper $37.95. ISBN 9781350094031Jennifer WayJennifer Way Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728341 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"4 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532952","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Editor’s Introduction","authors":"Paul Stirton","doi":"10.1086/728329","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/728329","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article FreeEditor’s IntroductionPaul StirtonPaul StirtonBard Graduate Center, New York City, USA Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreCamouflage—the use of visual effects for mimicry, concealment, or deception—emerged as a vital subject for biologists in the nineteenth century. Charles Darwin was only one of many scientists who took an interest in this phenomenon in nature. In the twentieth century, artists became involved, partly out of fascination with these same visual effects but also as a means of exploring how we see and apprehend visual imagery. Caroline van Eck takes a different tack entirely, acknowledging these earlier approaches but exploring camouflage as a cultural technique that ultimately manifests itself in various forms of human material culture. In a wide-ranging article that looks at the work of Vladimir Nabokov, Roger Caillois, Friedrich Nietzsche, and Henri de Saint-Simon, she uncovers ways in which we might reconsider the work of theorists like Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl, especially with regard to their approach to the cultural meanings of objects. As she writes in her conclusion, this may be a tentative first definition, but it offers “a way of thinking about the relation between nature and culture.”Our other articles are concerned more with specific objects: a late eighteenth-century “calligraphic portrait” of the Spanish Viceroy of Mexico, which reveals something of the culture and politics of Spain’s imperial territory, and a study of the Chelsea ceramic figure modelers of interwar London. In the latter article, Marshall Colman points out that figurative ceramics were at the heart of the studio pottery movement, and while this aspect has survived in the collecting and scholarship of Central Europe, changes in taste have meant that it has been largely ignored in accounts of British ceramics.Aby Warburg’s foray into the ethnography of “Indian” culture in New Mexico and Arizona is a prominent feature in the vast corpus of writings on this foundational scholar of art history and iconography. What is less well known is that he was in contact with Franz Boas, the pioneer of the anthropology of the Indigenous peoples of North America. Their correspondence is published here in translation for the first time, complete with an introduction by Claudia Wedepohl and Brooke Penaloza Patzak. Previous articleNext article DetailsFiguresReferencesCited by West 86th Volume 30, Number 1Spring–Summer 2023 Sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center, New York Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/728329 © Copyright 2023 by The Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture. All rights reserved.PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":"150 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135532945","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}