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Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society最新文献

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Dirty Laundry: Caring for Clothing in Early Modern Italy 脏衣服:近代早期意大利人对衣服的关怀
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2021.0180
M. Robinson
{"title":"Dirty Laundry: Caring for Clothing in Early Modern Italy","authors":"M. Robinson","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0180","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0180","url":null,"abstract":"Personal linens were key components of early modern health regimens. When they were visibly clean and bright white, linen shirtsleeves, collars and cuffs communicated the cleanliness of the wearer's body, as well as the state of their mind, morals and spirit. These functional garments and accessories could also be fashionable, especially when decorated with ruffles, lace and embroidery. Linens thus communicated hygienic, social, moral and financial information, which was generated by and reliant upon processes of laundry. This article explores some of these processes, especially as they pertain to linen shirts, cuffs and ruffs owned by non-elite people living in northern Italian cities. It brings archival, visual and material sources together with evidence generated through the re-creation of early modern processes of caring for clothing to show how ‘doing the laundry’ imparted linens with social and financial meanings and values.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88133270","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Benjamin Wild, From Carnival to Catwalk: Global Reflections on Fancy Dress Costume 本杰明·怀尔德，《从狂欢节到t台:对化装服装的全球反思》
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2021.0189
Sarah-Mary Geissler
{"title":"Benjamin Wild, From Carnival to Catwalk: Global Reflections on Fancy Dress Costume","authors":"Sarah-Mary Geissler","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0189","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0189","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83124689","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Restoring the Memory of the Forgotten Dutch Embroidery Designer Nellie van Rijsoort 修复被遗忘的荷兰刺绣设计师Nellie van Rijsoort的记忆
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2021.0183
M. Kargól
{"title":"Restoring the Memory of the Forgotten Dutch Embroidery Designer Nellie van Rijsoort","authors":"M. Kargól","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0183","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0183","url":null,"abstract":"In 1932, Nellie van Rijsoort (1910–1996), the Dutch embroidery maker and designer, opened her atelier in Rotterdam. Among her clients were prestigious fashion stores in the Netherlands as well as wealthy middle-class customers. After the Second World War, van Rijsoort left Rotterdam and continued her career in Melbourne in the rapidly developing fashion network of Australia. Today, samples of embroidered fabrics and fashion drawings by Nellie van Rijsoort are part of the collections of the Museum Rotterdam and the National Trust of Australia in Melbourne. These collections provide insight into half a century of history of embroidered fabrics. This article illustrates the largely forgotten career of the embroidery designer. The first part of the article outlines the position and meaning of van Rijsoort's atelier in the fashion networks of the Netherlands and Australia, while the second part provides an analysis of embroidery samples and drawings, which reveal the place and function of embroideries as dress decorations.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79412972","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
‘Indian Gowns Small and Great’: Chintz Banyans Ready Made in the Coromandel, c. 1680–c. 1780 “大大小小的印度长袍”:科罗曼德尔现成的印花棉布榕树，约1680-c。1780
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2021.0182
Ariane Fennetaux
{"title":"‘Indian Gowns Small and Great’: Chintz Banyans Ready Made in the Coromandel, c. 1680–c. 1780","authors":"Ariane Fennetaux","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0182","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0182","url":null,"abstract":"The article focuses on the close study of a group of eighteenth-century chintz nightgowns that were ready-made or partly ready-made in India for the European market. Whereas nightgowns are usually associated with the taste for the exotic and the spread of the fashion is sometimes linked to the availability of the garment on the ready-made market, the production of ready-made gowns in India and the methods put in place to manufacture these commodities have not been studied. Based on a close reading of surviving chintz nightgowns, the article attempts to understand production techniques put in place by Indian craftsmen to meet European demand. Material evidence suggests streamlined production processes were in place in India from the end of the seventeenth century that had no real equivalent in Europe. The article thus sheds further light on the idea of Europe's ‘Indian apprenticeship’, showing that Indian mastery of colour was coupled with production methods combining artisanal, non-mechanized work with a level of bulk production and enhanced efficiency.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85356698","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Amelia Rauser, The Age of Undress: Art, Fashion and the Classical Ideal in the 1790s 阿米莉亚·劳瑟，《脱衣时代:18世纪90年代的艺术、时尚和古典理想》
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2021.0187
H. Davidson
{"title":"Amelia Rauser, The Age of Undress: Art, Fashion and the Classical Ideal in the 1790s","authors":"H. Davidson","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0187","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0187","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90690162","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Fashion and Materiality: Cultural Practices in Global Contexts, ed. by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann 时尚与物质:全球背景下的文化实践，Heike Jenss和Viola Hofmann主编
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2020-10-19 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2021.0192
Hannah Rumball
{"title":"Fashion and Materiality: Cultural Practices in Global Contexts, ed. by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann","authors":"Hannah Rumball","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0192","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0192","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2020-10-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78363889","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance, ed. by Joanne Turney 《时尚犯罪:越轨着装》，乔安妮·特尼主编
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2020-09-14 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2020.0171
Jade Bailey-Dowling
{"title":"Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance, ed. by Joanne Turney","authors":"Jade Bailey-Dowling","doi":"10.3366/cost.2020.0171","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2020.0171","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2020-09-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89044128","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux, The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660–1900 芭芭拉·伯曼和阿丽亚娜·芬内托，《口袋:女性生活的隐秘历史，1660-1900》
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2020-09-14 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2020.0168
Veronica Isaac
{"title":"Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux, The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660–1900","authors":"Veronica Isaac","doi":"10.3366/cost.2020.0168","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2020.0168","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2020-09-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87499657","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
‘The Artistic Aspect of Dress’: The Story of the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union “服装的艺术层面”:健康而艺术的服装联盟的故事
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2020-09-14 DOI: 10.3366/COST.2020.0163
R. Calvert
{"title":"‘The Artistic Aspect of Dress’: The Story of the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union","authors":"R. Calvert","doi":"10.3366/COST.2020.0163","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2020.0163","url":null,"abstract":"This article presents a short biography of the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union, a dress reform society formed in 1890 with the aim of ‘teaching both men and women how to discriminate by choosing a...","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2020-09-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86290081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Fashion, Identity and Power in Modern Asia, ed. by Kyunghee Pyun and Aida Yuen Wong 《现代亚洲的时尚、身份与权力》，潘庆熙、王爱媛主编
IF 0.2 4区 社会学
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2020-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2020.0174
C. Nicklas
{"title":"Fashion, Identity and Power in Modern Asia, ed. by Kyunghee Pyun and Aida Yuen Wong","authors":"C. Nicklas","doi":"10.3366/cost.2020.0174","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2020.0174","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82945385","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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