{"title":"The Management of Beach Carrying Capacity: The case of northern Portugal.","authors":"C. Silva, F. Alves, R. Rocha","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-027.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-027.1","url":null,"abstract":"SILVA, C. P., ALVES, F. and ROCHA, R.,, 2007. The Management of Beach Carrying Capacity: The case of northern Portugal. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 135 – 139. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The rapid growth of coastal tourism that has been seen in the last 40 years is frequently described as one of the major reasons for the development of these areas and also as responsible for many current coastal problems. The beaches perform, in this context, a fundamental role where the issues related to planning and management are increasingly more important when it comes to an implementation of a sustainable development philosophy. In these circumstances, concepts such as carrying capacity need to be used in a careful way. In Portugal, where coastal tourism plays a major part for the national economy, the management of beaches is crucial for maintaining their quality and therefore continuing to attract tourists. Since the 1990s, with the application of Coastal Zone Management Plans to the whole Portuguese coast, beach plans are now required. In those plans various parameters are considered, from the type and location of equipment and parking lots, to the definition of beach carrying capacity. This paper explores the results of the implementation of these plans to the beaches of northern Portugal. This part of the coast is very dynamic with high erosion rates. Some of the interventions from the Plans changed part of the characteristics of the beaches making it necessary, in some cases, to re-calculate the carrying capacities that were initially proposed, bringing new challenges to their management. This paper aims to stress the validity of the carrying capacity concept as applied to beaches, taking into account the need to use the concept in a flexible and dynamic way.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"60 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366499","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Comparison of two wave models for Gold Coast, Australia","authors":"D. Strauss, R. Tomlinson","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-061.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-061.1","url":null,"abstract":"STRAUSS, D., MIRFERENDESK, H. and TOMLINSON, R., 2007. Comparison of two wave models for Gold Coast, Australia. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 312 – 316. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN 0749.0208 Managing hazards associated with shoreline responses to extreme events and the provision of safe boating access is an ongoing concern for coastal authorities. The open sandy coastline of Gold Coast city is a wave dominated coast with a highly variable wave climate and a narrow continental shelf thus experiencing substantial variations in long-shore transport rates. Detailed wave transformation information is central to further investigations of sediment transport processes as complex bathymetry associated with trained river entrances and rocky headlands causes localised interruptions to the overall northward littoral drift. Temporal variations in wave energy are driven by a wide range of swell direction and size while spatial variations occur as a result of the strong refraction during particular swell events. This paper presents a comparison of two near shore wave models of the region using MIKE 21 and SWAN. The transformation of waves arriving from offshore is simulated using the models for selected time series of wave parameters. The parameterized boundary conditions are derived from NOAA Wave Watch III global wave model data. Model output is compared with observed data from existing wave recording buoys at Gold Coast Seaway and Point Lookout. The inclusion of wind in the modelling undertaken did not improve the models’ accuracy and winds in excess of 10 ms -1 led to an over-estimation of significant wave height while increasing the processing time. Sheltering of the near-shore site during southerly swell conditions was well-represented by the modelling.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"56 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366542","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Coastal morphodynamics and prehistoric human occupation, County Donegal, NW Ireland","authors":"J. Knight, H. Burningham","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-021.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-021.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"8 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Direct Measurement of Bottom Shear Stress under Water Waves","authors":"Z. You, B. Yin","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-205.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-205.1","url":null,"abstract":"Wave-induced bottom shear stress is one of the most important parameters in modelling of wave hydrodynamics and coastal sediment transport. A new type of shear plate has been successfully developed to measure instantaneous wave bottom shear stress in a laboratory wave flume. The shear plate measures instantaneous horizontal force by applying the Wheatstone half bridge circuit to detect a tiny horizontal movement of the shear plate. There are about 280 individual test runs carried out over one smooth bed and two roughened beds, respectively. In each test run, instantaneous bottom shear stress was measured at a sampling rate of 10 Hz for about 10 minutes. The measured total horizontal force, which consists of wave-induced bottom shear stress and hydrodynamic pressure, is found linearly proportional to wave height in both laminar and turbulent flows. The wave friction factors measured on the smooth bed are shown to agree excellently with the theoretical values derived in laminar boundary layer flow, but those on the rough beds are affected by the bed roughness length estimated. An empirical formula is also proposed to compute the wave bottom shear stress.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"13 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140367248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A Laboratory Study of Dilute Suspension Mud Floc Characteristics in an Oscillatory Diffusive Turbulent Flow","authors":"N. Gratiot, A. Manning","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-207.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-207.1","url":null,"abstract":"GRATIOT, N. and MANNING, A. J., 2007. A Laboratory Study of Dilute Suspension Mud Floc Characteristics in an Oscillatory Diffusive Turbulent Flow, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 1142 – 1146. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 To further the understanding of mud flocculation the COSINUS project funded a series of laboratory experiments whereby dilute mud suspensions were sheared (between 3.7 s -1 - about 20 s -1 ) with nominal concentrations ranging from 200-600 mg l -1 , within a Plexiglas tank, using an oscillating grid. The floc properties were then examined using the LabSFLOC instrument. Results showed that for low concentrations of natural Tamar estuary (UK) mud exposed to high shear, the largest flocs were slightly less than the Kolmogorov eddy size of about 220 μm. The high shear resulted in all flocs having settling velocities of only 0.6 mm s -1 . Lowering the shear for the same mud improved flocculation, and raised the macrofloc settling velocity to 1.8 mm s -1 . This translated into macroflocs constituting 64% of the floc mass, and 80% of the mass settling flux. In contrast, low concentrations of natural Gironde mud displayed significantly faster settling macroflocs at each shear increment than Tamar mud, but the largest flocs were of the same order as the Tamar mud flocs. The suspended matter distribution showed the macroflocs only constituted 20-30% of the particulate mass. However, their faster settling rate transformed the low macrofloc mass into 62% of the settling flux. The removal of organic matter from the Gironde mud resulted in few flocs exceeding 125 μm in diameter.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"12 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140367252","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tim Pritchard, C. Holden, Randall Lee, K. Black, T. Healy
{"title":"Dynamics and Dispersion in the Coastal Boundary Layer off Coffs Harbour in Eastern Australia","authors":"Tim Pritchard, C. Holden, Randall Lee, K. Black, T. Healy","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-158.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-158.1","url":null,"abstract":"PRITCHARD, T.R., HOLDEN, C, LEE, R.S., BLACK, K.P. and HEALY, T. 2007. Dynamics and Dispersion in the Coastal Boundary Layer off Coffs Harbour in Eastern Australia. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 848 – 857. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Time series analysis and model simulations defined dynamics of coastal boundary layer formation off Coffs Harbour based on four deployed acoustic Doppler current (ADCP) meters and wind data from Coffs Harbour airport. Variance preserving spectra revealed peak energies at 7.8, 3.9 and 2.5 days plus ~24 and ~12 hours consistent with dominant forcing by winds. At inshore sites the highest energy levels occurred at the surface and decrease uniformly with depth at all frequencies with local peaks centred at exactly 24 hours, corresponding to peak local wind energy. In contrast, offshore sites showed depth dependency in the peak spectral energy with evidence of regional influences and wave-guide effects due to density stratification. Hydrodynamic simulations using the 3-dimensional explicit finite difference model 3DD revealed local bathymetric controls on circulation. A coastal boundary layer, delineated by a shear zone ~2km offshore in the lee of Corambirra Point, south of Coffs Harbour, was associated with formation of transient eddies. Model simulations and independent ADCP data identified 3 dimensional flow structures typified by clockwise rotation of flows down through the water column at all sites except for the quiescent, shallow water site in the headland wake south of Corambirra Point. The area south of Corambirra Point was predisposed to clockwise eddy rotation while offshore flows were generally shore-parallel. Pollutant dispersal was shown to be significantly less within this coastal boundary layer thus highlighting the need to consider effects of coastal boundary layers when locating discharges such as ocean outfalls.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"38 6","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140367536","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The value of coastal recreational resources: a case study approach to examine the value of recreational surfing to specific locales","authors":"N. Lazarow","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-003.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-003.1","url":null,"abstract":"LAZAROW, N., 2007. The value of coastal recreational resources: a case study approach to examine the value of recreational surfing to specific locales. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 12 – 20. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Surfing is a major recreational and economic activity involving intimate human interaction with diverse coastal environments and is expanding both in intensity in traditional locations, as well as in reach into new environments often in the developing world. The value of surfing to both Australia’s and the global economy has grown significantly over the past three decades. This combined with the significant growth in participation and rising popularity of surfing and surfing culture in many countries, means that the importance of the economic and social value of surfing to various regions cannot be understated. While there is a growing literature on the value of surfing tourism, especially in the South-East Asian region and of proposed artificial surfing reefs, there is little documented evidence of the value of recreational surfing in more traditional locations such as Australia and the USA, where it has been estimated that over two-million Australians and two-and-a-half million Americans surf on a regular basis. This paper presents findings from a three-year study using proven economic methodologies as well as those from the other social sciences to collect data on the market and non-market value of surfing at two locations in Australia. The findings demonstrate the significant economic, social and cultural importance of surfing amenity to specific locales, including the need to consider any negative impacts on surf breaks and the environment that may occur as a result of development, coastal planning and protection works.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"51 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140367719","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
W. Al-Nassar, S. Neelamani, K. Al-Banaa, A. Al-Ragum, J. Ljubic
{"title":"Wave Action on a Mild Sloped Offshore Breakwater for the Protection of a Promenade","authors":"W. Al-Nassar, S. Neelamani, K. Al-Banaa, A. Al-Ragum, J. Ljubic","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-049.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-049.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"48 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140367974","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fetch-Limited Barrier Islands of Spencer Gulf, South Australia","authors":"D. A. Lewis, J. Cooper, O.H. Pilkey, A. D. Short","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-168.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-168.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"27 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368208","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Physical Study of the Southern Coastal Waters of the Caspian Sea, off Babolsar, Mazandaran in Iran.","authors":"N. H. Zaker, P. Ghaffari, S. Jamshidi","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-107.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-107.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"84 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368873","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}