{"title":"Estimating extreme beach erosion frequency from a Monte Carlo simulation of wave climate","authors":"D. P. Callaghan, P. Nielsen, R. Ranasinghe","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-018.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-018.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"61 13","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140364887","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A. Vespremeanu‐Stroe, Ş. Constantinescu, F. Tătui, L. Giosan
{"title":"Multi-decadal Evolution and North Atlantic Oscillation Influences on the Dynamics of the Danube Delta Shoreline","authors":"A. Vespremeanu‐Stroe, Ş. Constantinescu, F. Tătui, L. Giosan","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-031.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-031.1","url":null,"abstract":"VESPREMEANU-STROE, A.,CONSTANTINESCU, Ş., TĂTUI, F. and GIOSAN, L., 2007. Multi-decadal Evolution and North Atlantic Oscillation Influences on the Dynamics of the Danube Delta Shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 157 – 162. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 A comprehensive analysis of data collected over the last five decades on the Danube delta coast (topographic maps, satellite imagery, GPS surveys and beach profiles) revealed two different shoreline dynamics patterns: (1) high mobility during 1961-1979 interval with high retreating and; (2) advancing rates and low mobility afterwards (1979-2006). The divergence zones in the longshore sediment transport system experienced the highest rates of retreat (~20 m/yr and ~10 m/yr in the first/second time interval), whereas the shoreline advanced fastest along the coast of active lobes (i.e., Chilia and Sf. Gheorghe lobes). During the second interval the decrease of shoreline changes rates was similar for the erosive beaches (with 55-66%) and non-uniform for the accretionary coasts (20-61% for open beaches and 80% for the sheltered secondary deltas). Wind data analysis reveals a good connection between multi-decadal winter storm frequency along the Danube delta coast and negative NAO phases (r = -0.76). The results of the present study clearly show that shoreline changes at decadal time scales are also ultimately driven by the NAO which controls the storminess on the Danube delta coast. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: shoreline retreat/advance, longshore sediment transport (LST), storms, multi-decadal climate variability, Black Sea","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"62 28","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365014","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Australian Rip Systems – Friend or Foe?","authors":"A. Short","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-002.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-002.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"6 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365377","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
N. T. Minh Hang, H. Araki, N. Cao Don, H. Yamanishi, K. Koga
{"title":"Hydrodynamics and Water Quality Modelling for the Ecosystem of the Ariake Sea, Kyushu, Japan","authors":"N. T. Minh Hang, H. Araki, N. Cao Don, H. Yamanishi, K. Koga","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-149.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-149.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"29 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
L.S. Esteves, J.J. Williams, M. Lisniowski, H. Perotto
{"title":"Measured Cross-Shore and Vertical Variations in Grain Size, Sorting and Composition in Suspended Sediments Transported by Longshore Currents","authors":"L.S. Esteves, J.J. Williams, M. Lisniowski, H. Perotto","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-116.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-116.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365839","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Use of Video Systems to Measure Run-up on Beaches","authors":"S. Salmon, K. R. Bryan, G. Coco","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-041.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-041.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"64 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366008","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches","authors":"K. Reichert, B. Lund","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-082.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-082.1","url":null,"abstract":"REICHERT, K. and LUND, B., 2007. Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), pg – pg. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN The wave monitoring system WaMoS II was developed for real time measurements of directional ocean wave spectra. The system is based on a standard marine X-band radar and can be operated to monitor the sea state from fixed platforms, in coastal areas or from moving vessels. In contrary to wave buoys it allows for temporal and spatial wave analysis. Wave data are needed in coastal areas to help increase safety of ship navigation and improve coastal protection strategies. This paper presents data obtained from the island of Sylt, Germany and at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay, Australia. Both regions are characterised by a complex bottom topography that leads to a highly spatially variable wave field. The wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling, and dissipation are described and quantified. WaMoS II proves to be a powerful tool to monitor changes of sea state caused by local topography.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"91 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366353","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Sediment Transport Processes in the Swash Zone of Sandy Beaches","authors":"T. Butt, P. Russell, Jon Miles, Ian L Turner","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-120.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-120.1","url":null,"abstract":"BUTT, T., RUSSELL, P., MILES, J. AND TURNER, I., 2007. Sediment Transport Processes in the Swash Zone of Sandy Beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 636 – 640. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 In recent years, there has been a general resurgence of interest in the swash zone. However, it still remains one of the least well understood parts of the coastal zone. The sediment transport and resulting morphological changes in the swash zone are notoriously difficult to predict. Energetics-type formulations are less useful for predicting sediment transport in the swash zone than further seaward, particularly as conditions become more reflective. One reason for this is the existence of processes in the swash zone such as bore turbulence, inexfiltration and sediment advection. This paper presents an overview of the findings from a recent 3-year UK swash-zone field study with particular focus on these processes and the way their influence varies according to the prevalent hydrodynamic and morphological conditions. There is now evidence that (a) the influence of bore turbulence decreases with increasing dissipativeness, (b) in-exfiltration biases the transport onshore or offshore above and below a particular grain size respectively and (c) sediment advection may bias the transport onshore in reflective conditions and offshore in high-energy dissipative conditions. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Advection, Backwash, Bore turbulence, Energetics, In-exfiltration, Uprush.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"77 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366638","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Long Waves and Beach Profile Evolutions","authors":"H. Michallet, F. Grasso, E. Barthélemy","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-043.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-043.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"29 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366738","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}