International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology最新文献_第9页

Personalized garment pattern generation based on space vector and distance ease 基于空间矢量和距离轻松度的个性化服装图案生成

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-07-10 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0152

Yijie Zhang, Ling Ma, Ziyi Guo, Tao Li, Fengyuan Zou

{"title":"Personalized garment pattern generation based on space vector and distance ease","authors":"Yijie Zhang, Ling Ma, Ziyi Guo, Tao Li, Fengyuan Zou","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0152","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0152","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeConsidering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.FindingsThe results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.Originality/valueThe proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42937777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Research on parametric design of men's suit lapel based on knowledge 基于知识的男式西装翻领参数化设计研究

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-06-22 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-08-2022-0114

Kai Lin, Kaixuan Liu

引用次数: 0

Parameterized shape adaptive materials for sportswear 运动服装的参数化形状自适应材料

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-06-19 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0007

J. Beem, Iain Hannah, A. Hosoi

{"title":"Parameterized shape adaptive materials for sportswear","authors":"J. Beem, Iain Hannah, A. Hosoi","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0007","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeConventional sportswear design does not take into account body size changes that many individuals experience (e.g. through pregnancy, puberty, menstruation, etc.). This paper aims to detail both the construction of a novel wearable shape-adaptive composite and a new meso-scale material design method, which enables the optimal creation of these structures.Design/methodology/approachThis work reports the development of a predictive computational model and a corresponding design tool, including results of a tensile testing protocol to validate their outputs. A mathematical model was developed to explore the geometric parameter space of a bi-stable composite system, which then feeds into an optimization design tool.FindingsThe authors found that it is possible to fabricate shape-adaptive composites via 3D printing bi-stable structures, and adhering them to a base textile. Experimental mechanical tensile testing showed good agreement with the predictive model in mid-range unit cell amplitude designs. To illustrate how the optimization design tool works this paper details two design examples, one for expected shape change during pregnancy and one for targeted compression for high performance swimwear. The optimized design parameters are shown to replicate the target parameters, however there is potential for further improvement with a lower stiffness base textile.Originality/valueAlthough there is a wealth of research on multi-stable mechanisms, there is a dearth of studies that apply these structures in the wearable composite space. Additionally, there is a need for design methods which leverage the structurally-programmable capabilities of multi-stable structures to create optimized, high-performance functional composites.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42391225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Investigating water vapor retention of fabrics and their suitability for seat coverings 研究织物的水汽保持性及其对座椅套的适用性

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-06-08 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0161

Kazuo Nagano, Shijia Lyu, N. Kakitsuba

{"title":"Investigating water vapor retention of fabrics and their suitability for seat coverings","authors":"Kazuo Nagano, Shijia Lyu, N. Kakitsuba","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0161","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0161","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeWater vapor trapped in the boundary layer between a person and the clothing creates discomfort and other unpleasant sensations. When that water vapor is prevented from leaving the clothing by external vapor barriers or impermeable layers, those psychophysical states are further exacerbated. One situation where that can be problematic is in office workplaces, and the seats that workers use for many hours every day. This study aims to evaluate the impact of different fabrics that are used for seat cover on water vapor retention.Design/methodology/approachThe authors' method determines the behavior of contact surface humidity with a 50 kg sandbag on the seat to mimic the deformation of the seat materials due to the seated person's weight. Thus, the maximum increase in relative humidity (RH) after humidification of the seat surface (ΔRH-max), the time required to reach the maximum value of humidity (t-max) and the time constant (TC) after humidity starts to fall were derived.FindingsOf the three different seat covers tested, the ΔRH-max of the wool were 7.3–8.8%, compared to 27.0–29.0% of the polyvinyl chloride (PVC), indicating more moisture absorption and transmission of the wool. The TC of the acrylic cover was 224–384 min compared to the 483–558 min of the PVC, which indicated a quick drying out feature of the acrylic.Originality/valueThe ΔRH-max, t-max and TC were all significantly correlated with the RH at the back thigh skin surface of the actual human participants.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44142539","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Prospects of the use of anolyte in the leather and fur industry 阳极电解质在皮革和毛皮工业中的应用前景

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-06-01 DOI: 10.15862/11tlkl223

N. Evteeva, A. Okutin, V. Chursin, O.V. Dormidontova

{"title":"Prospects of the use of anolyte in the leather and fur industry","authors":"N. Evteeva, A. Okutin, V. Chursin, O.V. Dormidontova","doi":"10.15862/11tlkl223","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15862/11tlkl223","url":null,"abstract":"In the leather and fur industry, the possibility of using electrochemically activated solutions has not been properly evaluated, although such processing of raw materials can contribute to the autonomy of production in the context of import substitution and reduce the environmental burden of enterprises on the environment. The work is aimed at optimizing the technological processes for the production of leather and fur using anolyte. Anolyte is an electrochemically activated solution of sodium chloride, obtained in a membrane plant by electrolysis. The paper proposes the use of anolyte in the process of soaking leather and fur raw materials without the addition of alkaline reagents, antiseptics, accelerators, enzymes and other auxiliary materials, as well as in the combined pickling and tanning of furs. The optimal conditions for obtaining anolyte solutions and their influence on the soaking process are determined. The results of the experimental studies carried out allow us to conclude that it is possible and promising to use electrochemically activated solutions in the preparatory processes of leather and fur production, which make it possible to ensure the high-quality soaking process, achieve the required degree of watering of the raw material in a shorter time, and prepare the structure of the dermis and leather tissue of the fur for subsequent technological processing. The article also presents the results of determining the physical and mechanical properties of mink skins after the use of anolyte in the process of combined pickling-tanning. The data obtained allow us to conclude that it is expedient to use anolyte solutions not only in the process of soaking, but also in other operations of leather and fur production. During the experiment, it was found that the anolyte contributed to the efficiency of technological processes, and as a result of such processing, the properties of mink skins corresponded to the standard ones.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":"177 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85436437","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Objective and subjective evaluations of quilted mattress ticking fabrics for their thermal comfort performances 绗缝床垫面料热舒适性能的客观与主观评价

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-05-23 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0138

Sibel Kaplan, Havva Tokgoz

{"title":"Objective and subjective evaluations of quilted mattress ticking fabrics for their thermal comfort performances","authors":"Sibel Kaplan, Havva Tokgoz","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0138","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeSleep quality, a crucial parameter for health and life performance, is affected by mattress components; particularly mechanical and thermal comfort management ability of the upper layers. The aim of this study is to investigate effects of quilted mattress ticking fabric material (polyester, polypropylene, viscose, lyocell and their blends) on thermal comfort of the bedding system by objective and subjective measurements.Design/methodology/approachThe permeability (air and water vapour), heat transfer, water absorption, transfer and drying behaviours of knitted quilted fabrics which influence the thermal comfort of the bedding system were investigated. Subjective coolness and dampness evaluations were gathered by forearm and hand-palm tests to provide more realistic discussion in light of fabric characteristics.FindingsAccording to the results, polypropylene can be suggested for winter use with its higher air and water vapour permeabilities, lower thermal absorption and conductivities and warmer evaluation results. Lyocell can be suggested for summer use with also high permeabilities, higher thermal absorption and conductivities and cooler evaluation results. Polyester and viscose may also be considered for winter and summer in turn as a result of thermal feelings they create.Originality/valueIn addition to fabric thermal, permeability, liquid absorption and transfer properties, this study also includes subjective coolness and dampness evaluations which can provide realistic results regarding the coolness-to-touch and liquid transfer performances of mattress ticking fabrics. The relationships among objective and subjective data were investigated and the proposed subjective evaluation techniques can be used for different products.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41915199","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Testing of 3D printing on textile fabrics for garments application within circular design 圆形设计中应用于服装的纺织品3D打印测试

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-05-23 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0080

Kestutis Lekeckas, Julija Stirbe, K. Ancutiene, Ruta Valusyte

{"title":"Testing of 3D printing on textile fabrics for garments application within circular design","authors":"Kestutis Lekeckas, Julija Stirbe, K. Ancutiene, Ruta Valusyte","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0080","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0080","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeTo explore the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength of 3D printing materials and chiffon fabrics, and to develop an original design clothing prototype with an extended functionality that would be compatible with the specifics of the circular design.Design/methodology/approachFour different chiffon fabrics and four 3D printed materials were chosen as the research subjects to determine the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength and ductility. The uniaxial tensile test was used to determine pull-out force and the pull-out elongation from the interlayer.Findings3D printed TPU elements can be used to join clothing parts made from low-elasticity chiffon fabrics to improve wearing comfort. In order to comply with the circular economy concept, it is important to select such adhesion parameters of the 3D printed elements and the material system that would ensure wear comfort and withstand wear-level loads; and at the end of the life cycle of a garment, the 3D printed elements could be separated from the product and recycled.Originality/valueThe systems developed can be used to renew and repair products, adding originality, individual touch or additional decorative features, while extending the functional possibilities of clothing items in accordance with circular design principles.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41383034","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

The quasi-static puncture resistance of flexible impregnated nonwovens made by filament or staple polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers 长丝或短纤维聚酯(PET)柔性浸渍非织造布的准静态抗穿刺性能

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-05-17 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0140

C. Liang, Ting Zou, Yan Zhang, Yuan-yuan Li, Ping Wang

引用次数: 0

Sewing and adhesive bonding technologies for smart clothing production 智能服装生产中的缝纫和粘合技术

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-05-10 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0028

J. Domskiene, Modesta Mitkute, V. Grigaliunas

{"title":"Sewing and adhesive bonding technologies for smart clothing production","authors":"J. Domskiene, Modesta Mitkute, V. Grigaliunas","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0028","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0028","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThis paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile package. Commercially available conductive textiles are tested for the production of e-textile package by most common cut-and-sewn clothing production technologies.Design/methodology/approachSewing, adhesive bonding and seam sealing technologies used to obtain e-textile packages with woven and knitted conductive textiles. Produced e-textile packages described in terms of thickness, bending rigidity and general appearance. Exploitation properties of prepared samples tested by cycle tensile experiment and discussed on the basis of variation of linear electrical resistance property.FindingsResearch has shown that a reliable e-textile package can be obtained by applying cut-and-sew technology for conductive tracks of silver coated woven and knitted material. Seam sealing by thermoplastic polymer layer has an impact on the electrical and deformation properties of the samples. To create attractive smart clothing design, the appropriate joining method and its technological parameters must be chosen to ensure the durability and safety of e-textile packages.Originality/valueThe findings of the research are of substantial value for the production of e-textiles by cut-and-sewn technologies. The required shape of the conductive textile element for various applications can be cut and joined to the garment parts using traditional sewing or adhesive bonding techniques.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42189465","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Emotional factors of bra that effect satisfaction and attractiveness 影响满意度和吸引力的文胸情感因素

IF 1.2 4区工程技术

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2023-05-09 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-07-2022-0103

Xingyu Wen, Jing Zhang, Mincheol Whang

{"title":"Emotional factors of bra that effect satisfaction and attractiveness","authors":"Xingyu Wen, Jing Zhang, Mincheol Whang","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-07-2022-0103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-07-2022-0103","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to analyze the relationship between affect space and bra design factors based on the observer's vision judgment.Design/methodology/approachFirst, using two dimensions of attractiveness and satisfaction to define the bra emotion space based on literature. Then, the mapping relation between bra design factors and emotional space is analyzed in visual perception. Finally, the model of bra emotion recognition based on design factors is established using the neural network BRP.FindingsUsers' emotions stimulated by bras can be automatically recognized based on their visual design factors. (1) attractiveness and satisfaction which are used to define bra emotions space show a linear correlation between each other in the human visual domain. (2) The design factors that cause attractiveness can also cause satisfaction. However, the factors that stimulate satisfaction do not necessarily attract users' interest, such as the ratio, location of embellishments, hollowed, core decoration and contour lines.Practical implicationsThe analysis of bra emotion space may help designers to understand the relationship between bra visual appearance and emotion, and ask them to pay attention to empathic design factors. With the provided results, designers can also carry out and evaluate emotional bra design with high attractiveness and satisfaction.Originality/valueThis paper discusses the emotional attributes of bra visual design factors based on bra emotion space and explores the methods of bra emotion design.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49409577","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0