International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology最新文献

{"title":"Making individualized men's basic body block patterns with a measuring garment incorporating stretchable capacitance sensors","authors":"KyoungOk Kim, Daisuke Iguchi, M. Takatera","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0004","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeTo make individualized men's basic upper garment patterns without sleeves, the authors developed a measuring garment that measures necessary body dimensions and angles all together. Additionally, the authors proposed a method for making individualized basic body block patterns using the obtained dimensions and angles.Design/methodology/approachThe authors decided on the locations of the dimensions of the body required for making the individualized garments. The authors then sewed multiple stretchable capacitance sensors to corresponding locations on a stretchable T-shirt. To obtain the dimensions with sensors of short length, the authors indirectly obtained each length from the relationship between the actual body length and the capacitance of the sensor. Beforehand, the authors obtained linear-approximation equations for the relationship between actual body dimensions and the capacitance of sensors for five participants and a dummy. The authors then used the measuring garment and the equations to obtain the body dimensions of another six participants. The authors compared the obtained and actual body dimensions to verify the equations. The authors made individualized upper-garment patterns without sleeves and garments for the 11 participants with the obtained dimensions and angles. The authors verified the proposed method in wearing tests comparing garments designed using the proposed method with conventionally designed garments.FindingsUsing the measuring garment, the authors obtained body dimensions close to actual body dimensions. A pattern of the individualized basic upper garment using the obtained dimensions and angles could be drawn. Compared with the conventional patterns, the individualized patterns had notable differences in the locations of the shoulder point and side neck point and directions of the shoulder line, which relate to the shoulder shape (i.e. square, sloping, forward, or backward). In wearing tests, all participants declared that the individualized garment better fitted their shoulders than the conventional garment without tightness around the shoulders, neck, and armpits. The proposed method with the developed measuring garment was thus found to be effective in designing individualized garments.Originality/valueThis paper presents the possibility of not only measuring body dimensions but also designing individualized basic upper garments using the proposed measuring garment. The proposed measuring garment will assist the efficient manufacture of individualized upper garments without a three-dimensional scanner or special skills.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45136102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Nonylphenols found in wastewater of activewear garments, after laundering in Aotearoa New Zealand","authors":"R. Harman, M. Salmanzadeh, Nicolas Sandoval, Pierson Rathinaraj","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0157","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0157","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this research was to determine the level of nonylphenols (NPs) present in wastewater from the first launder of new activewear garments purchased in Aotearoa, New Zealand.Design/methodology/approachFifteen garments were purchased and prepared, and each was laundered separately. Wastewater was collected from each of the garments being laundered and tested for NPs, along with the controls.FindingsAccording to the obtained results, detectable levels of NPs were present in all the garments tested.Originality/valueThe results obtained from the detection of NPs present in activewear garments is the first study of its kind in New Zealand and adds to the understanding of the distance that toxic chemicals can travel when used in textile manufacturing.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48593260","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Personalized garment pattern generation based on space vector and distance ease","authors":"Yijie Zhang, Ling Ma, Ziyi Guo, Tao Li, Fengyuan Zou","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0152","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0152","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeConsidering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.FindingsThe results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.Originality/valueThe proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42937777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Research on parametric design of men's suit lapel based on knowledge","authors":"Kai Lin, Kaixuan Liu","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-08-2022-0114","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-08-2022-0114","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to improve the efficiency of pattern-making for suit lapels in the apparel industry, to master the perceptual knowledge of suit lapels and to establish a mapping relationship between suit lapel styles and perceptual judgment.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, notch lapel, peak lapel and shawl lapel are studied, and the authors extract the structural features in the order of drafting as the input values for model training. At the same time, after the expert screening, four perceptual evaluation dimensions based on a priori knowledge are selected as output values, which are finally classified using a decision tree algorithm.FindingsThe results show that different design parameters produce different perceptions of people's vision and, thus, different perceptual judgments. The decision tree model can effectively classify the perceptual judgment of the lapel shape.Originality/valueThe findings of this study help garment factories to provide optimal judgment of basic parameters before the production of a suit lapel and to improve the efficiency of the design.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44384383","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Parameterized shape adaptive materials for sportswear","authors":"J. Beem, Iain Hannah, A. Hosoi","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0007","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeConventional sportswear design does not take into account body size changes that many individuals experience (e.g. through pregnancy, puberty, menstruation, etc.). This paper aims to detail both the construction of a novel wearable shape-adaptive composite and a new meso-scale material design method, which enables the optimal creation of these structures.Design/methodology/approachThis work reports the development of a predictive computational model and a corresponding design tool, including results of a tensile testing protocol to validate their outputs. A mathematical model was developed to explore the geometric parameter space of a bi-stable composite system, which then feeds into an optimization design tool.FindingsThe authors found that it is possible to fabricate shape-adaptive composites via 3D printing bi-stable structures, and adhering them to a base textile. Experimental mechanical tensile testing showed good agreement with the predictive model in mid-range unit cell amplitude designs. To illustrate how the optimization design tool works this paper details two design examples, one for expected shape change during pregnancy and one for targeted compression for high performance swimwear. The optimized design parameters are shown to replicate the target parameters, however there is potential for further improvement with a lower stiffness base textile.Originality/valueAlthough there is a wealth of research on multi-stable mechanisms, there is a dearth of studies that apply these structures in the wearable composite space. Additionally, there is a need for design methods which leverage the structurally-programmable capabilities of multi-stable structures to create optimized, high-performance functional composites.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42391225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Investigating water vapor retention of fabrics and their suitability for seat coverings","authors":"Kazuo Nagano, Shijia Lyu, N. Kakitsuba","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0161","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0161","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeWater vapor trapped in the boundary layer between a person and the clothing creates discomfort and other unpleasant sensations. When that water vapor is prevented from leaving the clothing by external vapor barriers or impermeable layers, those psychophysical states are further exacerbated. One situation where that can be problematic is in office workplaces, and the seats that workers use for many hours every day. This study aims to evaluate the impact of different fabrics that are used for seat cover on water vapor retention.Design/methodology/approachThe authors' method determines the behavior of contact surface humidity with a 50 kg sandbag on the seat to mimic the deformation of the seat materials due to the seated person's weight. Thus, the maximum increase in relative humidity (RH) after humidification of the seat surface (ΔRH-max), the time required to reach the maximum value of humidity (t-max) and the time constant (TC) after humidity starts to fall were derived.FindingsOf the three different seat covers tested, the ΔRH-max of the wool were 7.3–8.8%, compared to 27.0–29.0% of the polyvinyl chloride (PVC), indicating more moisture absorption and transmission of the wool. The TC of the acrylic cover was 224–384 min compared to the 483–558 min of the PVC, which indicated a quick drying out feature of the acrylic.Originality/valueThe ΔRH-max, t-max and TC were all significantly correlated with the RH at the back thigh skin surface of the actual human participants.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44142539","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Prospects of the use of anolyte in the leather and fur industry","authors":"N. Evteeva, A. Okutin, V. Chursin, O.V. Dormidontova","doi":"10.15862/11tlkl223","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15862/11tlkl223","url":null,"abstract":"In the leather and fur industry, the possibility of using electrochemically activated solutions has not been properly evaluated, although such processing of raw materials can contribute to the autonomy of production in the context of import substitution and reduce the environmental burden of enterprises on the environment. The work is aimed at optimizing the technological processes for the production of leather and fur using anolyte. Anolyte is an electrochemically activated solution of sodium chloride, obtained in a membrane plant by electrolysis. The paper proposes the use of anolyte in the process of soaking leather and fur raw materials without the addition of alkaline reagents, antiseptics, accelerators, enzymes and other auxiliary materials, as well as in the combined pickling and tanning of furs. The optimal conditions for obtaining anolyte solutions and their influence on the soaking process are determined. The results of the experimental studies carried out allow us to conclude that it is possible and promising to use electrochemically activated solutions in the preparatory processes of leather and fur production, which make it possible to ensure the high-quality soaking process, achieve the required degree of watering of the raw material in a shorter time, and prepare the structure of the dermis and leather tissue of the fur for subsequent technological processing. The article also presents the results of determining the physical and mechanical properties of mink skins after the use of anolyte in the process of combined pickling-tanning. The data obtained allow us to conclude that it is expedient to use anolyte solutions not only in the process of soaking, but also in other operations of leather and fur production. During the experiment, it was found that the anolyte contributed to the efficiency of technological processes, and as a result of such processing, the properties of mink skins corresponded to the standard ones.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85436437","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Objective and subjective evaluations of quilted mattress ticking fabrics for their thermal comfort performances","authors":"Sibel Kaplan, Havva Tokgoz","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0138","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeSleep quality, a crucial parameter for health and life performance, is affected by mattress components; particularly mechanical and thermal comfort management ability of the upper layers. The aim of this study is to investigate effects of quilted mattress ticking fabric material (polyester, polypropylene, viscose, lyocell and their blends) on thermal comfort of the bedding system by objective and subjective measurements.Design/methodology/approachThe permeability (air and water vapour), heat transfer, water absorption, transfer and drying behaviours of knitted quilted fabrics which influence the thermal comfort of the bedding system were investigated. Subjective coolness and dampness evaluations were gathered by forearm and hand-palm tests to provide more realistic discussion in light of fabric characteristics.FindingsAccording to the results, polypropylene can be suggested for winter use with its higher air and water vapour permeabilities, lower thermal absorption and conductivities and warmer evaluation results. Lyocell can be suggested for summer use with also high permeabilities, higher thermal absorption and conductivities and cooler evaluation results. Polyester and viscose may also be considered for winter and summer in turn as a result of thermal feelings they create.Originality/valueIn addition to fabric thermal, permeability, liquid absorption and transfer properties, this study also includes subjective coolness and dampness evaluations which can provide realistic results regarding the coolness-to-touch and liquid transfer performances of mattress ticking fabrics. The relationships among objective and subjective data were investigated and the proposed subjective evaluation techniques can be used for different products.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41915199","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Testing of 3D printing on textile fabrics for garments application within circular design","authors":"Kestutis Lekeckas, Julija Stirbe, K. Ancutiene, Ruta Valusyte","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0080","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0080","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeTo explore the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength of 3D printing materials and chiffon fabrics, and to develop an original design clothing prototype with an extended functionality that would be compatible with the specifics of the circular design.Design/methodology/approachFour different chiffon fabrics and four 3D printed materials were chosen as the research subjects to determine the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength and ductility. The uniaxial tensile test was used to determine pull-out force and the pull-out elongation from the interlayer.Findings3D printed TPU elements can be used to join clothing parts made from low-elasticity chiffon fabrics to improve wearing comfort. In order to comply with the circular economy concept, it is important to select such adhesion parameters of the 3D printed elements and the material system that would ensure wear comfort and withstand wear-level loads; and at the end of the life cycle of a garment, the 3D printed elements could be separated from the product and recycled.Originality/valueThe systems developed can be used to renew and repair products, adding originality, individual touch or additional decorative features, while extending the functional possibilities of clothing items in accordance with circular design principles.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41383034","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The quasi-static puncture resistance of flexible impregnated nonwovens made by filament or staple polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers","authors":"C. Liang, Ting Zou, Yan Zhang, Yuan-yuan Li, Ping Wang","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0140","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0140","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThis paper aims to design a composite, aiming to improve the static puncture resistance through polyurethane impregnated treatment with five concentration gradients.Design/methodology/approachThe relationship between polyurethane concentration, the number of polyester nonwovens, component fiber type (filament or staple) and the static puncture resistance is explored respectively and elaborately.FindingsThis study provides a new perspective to design flexible composites with better static puncture resistance, feasible preparation process as well as low cost.Originality/valueThe results show that the static puncture resistance of nonwovens impregnated by polyurethane is improved obviously. Meanwhile the puncture strength-T of nonwovens increases first and then decreases with the increase of the number of layers, and the maximum puncture strength-T is found at 20 layers. Moreover, the composite with filaments illustrates better mechanical resistance.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48859499","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}