International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology最新文献

{"title":"OMNet: Outfit Memory Net for clothing parsing","authors":"Shaoping Ye, Shaoyu Wang, Nuo Chen, An Xu, Xiujin Shi","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0145","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0145","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeExisting clothing parsing methods make little use of dataset-level information. This paper aims to propose a novel clothing parsing method which utilizes higher-level outfit combinatorial consistency knowledge from the whole clothing dataset to improve the accuracy of segmenting clothing images.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, the authors propose an Outfit Memory Net (OMNet) that augments original feature by aggregating dataset-level prior clothing combination information. Specifically, the authors design an Outfit Matrix (OM) to represent clothing combination information of single image and an Outfit Memory Module (OMM) to store the clothing combination information of all images in the training set, i.e. dataset-level clothing combination information. In addition, the authors propose a Multi-scale Aggregation Module (MAM) to aggregate the clothing combination information in a multi-scale manner to solve the problem of large variance in the scale of objects in the clothing images.FindingsExperiments on Colorful Fashion Parsing Dataset (CFPD) dataset show that the authors' method achieves 93.15% pixel accuracy (PA) and 51.24% mean of class-wise intersection over union (mIoU), which are satisfactory parsing results compared with existing methods such as PSPNet, DANet and DeepLabV3. Moreover, through comparing the segmentation accuracy of different methods for each category, MAM could effectively improve the segmentation of small objects.Originality/valueWith the rise of various online shopping platforms and the continuous development of deep learning technology, emerging applications such as clothing recommendation, matching, classification and virtual try-on system have emerged in the clothing field. Clothing parsing is the key technology to realize these applications. Therefore, improving the accuracy of clothing parsing is necessary.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-05-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44861272","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mycelium as sustainable textile material – review on recent research and future prospective","authors":"R. Rathinamoorthy, T. Sharmila Bharathi, M. Snehaa, C. Swetha","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-01-2022-0003","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2022-0003","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeMycelium is an upcoming bio-based alternative material that has various applications in different industries. Mycelium materials used as composites, leather, construction materials and some are even available for commercial purposes. However, there was not much research found when it came to the application of mycelium as a textile alternative. The purpose of this paper is to examine the potential of mycelium in the textile industry and its possible applications.Design/methodology/approachThis review consolidates literature that refers the two major methods used in fungal mycelium production namely; as a composite and as a pure self-grown mycelium sheet. The study compared the current research status in this respective field and reported the scope in the pure mycelium development.FindingsThe results of the review reported that several research works are performed in composite production with different feedstock. The production methods and product development steps were well established for several applications from home utilities to construction materials. Whereas, in the case of self-grown mycelium sheet production only limited research works were found. Though the possibilities of engineered composite sheets are developed with various properties, research on self-grown pure mycelium sheets are at infant stage. Sensitive production methods, lower tensile, tearing, poor handle properties with brittle structure and non-uniformity in thickness are noted as limitations. Sustainable nature, self-grown three-dimensional nano-fibril network with porous structure are found to be advantageous.Originality/valueThe solid culture method was identified as a potential method to develop a sheet-like self-grown mycelium with different dimensions. The review results clearly show the lack of research in the direct application of self-grown pure mycelium area concerning feedstock material, fungal species selection and characterization of the developed product. Addressing the existing limitations will yield a sustainable textile material for fashion and textile industry with great potential.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46970292","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Characterization of self-dyed silk yarn with Rhodamine B dye for fashion applications","authors":"Uyen Nguyen Tu Tran, H. Phan, Thao Thanh Hoang, Nu Thi Hong Le, H. Bui","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0147","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0147","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe textile industry has consumed large quantities of water and discharged large volumes of wastewater in the dyeing process. The study aims to characterize self-dyed silk with Rhodamine B (RhB) for fashion applications to reduce textile hazards to the environment and increase the added value of silk.Design/methodology/approachBombyx mori was fed with RhB-colored mulberry leaves (1500 ppm). The effects of self-dyeing were investigated via color strength K/S, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, tensile strength, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.FindingsSelf-dyed silk possesses effective coloration and impressive color fastness (4–5/5), higher crystalline index (CrI) (73.26 ± 2.28%), less thermal stability and tenacity, slight change in amino acid composition compared with the pristine and no existence of harmful aromatic azo amines and arylamine salts.Practical implicationsThe application of self-dyed silk with RhB dye has expanded new technology into fashion industry, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to silk in the global supply chain. Besides, the self-dyeing will yield practical values in the reduction of dyeing discharge in textile industry.Originality/valueSelf-dyed silk was characterized for textile applications in comparison with pristine silk in terms of color strength and fastness as well as determined its polymeric properties relating to crystallinity, morphology, chemical composition, tensile properties and thermal stability which have not been investigated before.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48984894","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics made up of polyester yarns and nylon yarns with varied specification","authors":"Yang Yang, Weijing Zhang, Zheng Liu, Pei-hua Zhang","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0079","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of filament composition with different specifications on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper eight bi-layer knitted fabrics with the same knitting structure but different filament compositions were prepared, and the thermal-wet comfort properties of these fabrics were examined. According to experimental data, the effect of filament composition on the thermal comfort properties of fabric was analyzed.FindingsThe increasing difference of hydrophilicity between inner and outer layers resulted in the enhancement of moisture management properties. Better thermal-physiology performance was exhibited by fabrics made up of finer and circular section fibers. Excellent thermal transfer, drying performance and one-way water transport capacity benefited the improvement of dynamic cooling effect of fabrics.Originality/valueThis work provides a useful and effective method for the development of bi-layer knitted fabric applied for sports and summer clothing.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44809617","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Investigation of the cosmetic effects of pattern design and wearability in sports bras","authors":"E. Yılmaz, Z. Öndoğan, Arzu Şen Kılıç","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-01-2022-0009","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2022-0009","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThis study aims to develop a sports bra with cosmetic microcapsules that supports the breasts and provides an aesthetically upright and lifted posture by using 28 days period.Design/methodology/approachA fitting process was carried out on provided seamless sports bras to determine the criteria that have to be improved considering the desired properties. The new sports bras were produced after the pattern design was developed; cosmetic microcapsules were applied to some of the bras and some were used as a control group to compare the real cosmetic effects. Female subjects tried the newly developed sports bras in a 28-day wear trial. Measurements were taken at certain periods during the wear trials, and the obtained data were analyzed statistically.FindingsThe findings of this study determined that the product provides a decrease in breast girth and increases skin moisture and nipple height after 28 days of regular use due to the effect of cosmetic ingredients released from microcapsules. A great majority of subjects found the breast lifting and supporting property of the sports bra successful and were satisfied with the new shape of the subjects' breasts.Originality/valueFitting studies were carried out directly on the female body, and the designed and developed encapsulating type sports bra has been transformed into a cosmetic textile product that gains also cosmetic properties. The cosmetic effects of the bra were investigated with wear trials. On the other hand, the nipple height measure term was defined for the first time and added to the literature within the scope of the study.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43851571","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Coloring and functional properties of cotton and wool fabrics treated with aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) fruit and leaf extracts","authors":"E. Koh, K. Hong","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0019","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0019","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this study was to develop an environment-friendly finishing process for coloring and functionalizing fabrics using the extracts from aronia fruit (AF) and/or aronia leaf (AL).Design/methodology/approachColoring and functional compounds were extracted from both AF and AL to prepare dyeing and finishing agents for textiles. The bioactive compounds were identified, and their concentrations were determined by spectrophotometry and high-performance liquid chromatography. The extracts were then used to dye and finish natural fibers. The cotton and wool fabrics treated with AF, AL and a combination of AF + AL extracts were investigated in terms of coloring properties and functionalities, specifically antioxidant capacity and antibacterial property.FindingsAccording to the obtained results, AF extracts contained significant amounts of anthocyanins and phenols while AL extracts contained higher amounts of phenols with very low levels of anthocyanins. It was successfully demonstrated that the AF and AL extracts can be used to dye fabrics with good color properties. Moreover, textiles treated with aronia extracts inhibited the growth of gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria and exhibited antioxidant properties.Originality/valueAF extract showed superior coloring and functional properties compared to AL extract. However, the treatment solution containing both AF and AL extracts demonstrated significant synergic effects on the antibacterial and antioxidant properties of the treated fabrics.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47189392","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Developing a prediction model for improving bifurcated garment fit for mass customization","authors":"Aditi Galada, Fatma Baytar","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-12-2021-0179","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-12-2021-0179","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic body measurements. This equation could provide a simple mass-customization approach to the design of bifurcated garments.Design/methodology/approachDemographic characteristics and easy-to-record body measurements available in the size USA database were used to predict the crotch length. Different methodologies including best subset regression, lasso regression and principal components regression were experimented with to identify the most important predictor variables and establish a relationship between the significant predictors and crotch length.FindingsThe lasso regression model provided the highest accuracy, required only five body dimensions and dealt with multicollinearity. The preliminary pattern preparation and garment fit tests indicated that by utilizing the proposed equation, patterns of customized garments could be successfully altered to match the crotch length of the customer, thereby, improving the precision and efficiency of the pattern making process.Originality/valueCrotch length is a crucial measurement as it determines bifurcated garment comfort as well as aesthetic fit. The crotch length is usually estimated arbitrarily based on non-scientific methods while drafting patterns, and this increases the likelihood of dissatisfaction with the fit of the lower-body garments. The present study suggested an algorithm that could predict crotch length with 90.53% accuracy using the body dimensions height, hips, waist height, knee height and arm length.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":"33 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41286016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Differences in fabric hand perceptions among Japanese and Chinese individuals","authors":"Tomoharu Ishikawa, Junki Tsunetou, Yoshiko Yanagida, Mutsumi Yanaka, Minoru Mitsui, K. Sasaki, M. Ayama","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-04-2022-0050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-04-2022-0050","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe study aimed to clarify differences in fabric hand perceptions among Japanese and Chinese participants and implement online shopping strategies that enable consumers to easily recognize fabric texture.Design/methodology/approachForty (20 Japanese and 20 Chinese) participants knowledgeable about clothing and fabric were recruited. Participants evaluated fabric by sight and touch in a visuotactile experiment (VTE). The stimulus material comprised 39 fabric samples representing a broad range of fabric attributes (7 fibers, 5 weaving/knitting techniques and 3 yarn thicknesses and density). A Mann–Whitney U test and a factor analysis were conducted to determine differences in responses for the different fabric variables.FindingsThe fabric hand perceptions factors were similar between both groups. Japanese participants showed a stronger preference for fabrics that felt wet. Japanese participants’ fabric hand perceptions had a 3-factor structure, while Chinese participants had a 2-factor structure. Chinese participants regarded “crisp” as perceptually and linguistically equivalent to “stretchy.”Originality/valueThe study’s findings suggest that Chinese people have stronger preferences in fabrics than Japanese people do. Japanese people evaluate fabric hand in a more nuanced manner than Chinese individuals, including discerning different fabric attributes, such as fiber and yarn thickness and density. Thus, nationality may influence fabric hand perceptions more than fabric knowledge does. Specifically, in evaluating “crispness,” the results required further analysis because differences in nationality may have affected evaluations regarding perception and linguistic perspectives. The findings provide design guidelines for implementing online shopping strategies adapted to each participant group.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41407832","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Simulation and analysis of heat transfer performance of electrical heating fabric at low temperature based on skin tissue","authors":"Jinyu Li, Hangyu Yan, Yunfeng Ni, Linlin Fu, Yunchu Yang","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0021","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-02-2022-0021","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeAt present, electrical heating clothing is widely used to keep ourselves warm at low temperature. The purpose of this paper is to explore the heat transfer performance of electrical heating fabric and the thermal comfort of human skin at low temperature.Design/methodology/approachThe combined model of skin-electrical heating fabric system was established to simulate human skin tissue wearing electrical heating clothing. A series of simulation experiments are designed on the basis of verifying the effectiveness of the combined model. The temperature distribution inside the combined model and on the skin surface under different heating powers is simulated and analyzed. At the same time, the influence of ambient temperature on the thermal performance of electrical heating fabric was explored.FindingsThe skin model with blood vessels reflected the temperature change of human skin wearing electrical heating clothing. The higher the heating power of the electrical heating fabric was, the greater the temperature of the skin surface changed, the faster the temperature rose and the longer the time required to reach the stable state would be. After the heating element was electrified, it had the greatest effect on the average temperature of the epidermis and dermis, had smaller effect on the average temperature of subcutaneous layer and had little effect on the temperature of blood vessels. When the heating power was the same, the higher the ambient temperature was, the more obvious the heating effect of electrical heating fabric was. Electrical heating fabrics with different heating powers were suitable for different ambient temperature ranges.Originality/valueA reasonable and effective evaluation method for the thermal comfort of electrical heating fabric was provided by establishing the skin model and combined model of the skin-electrical heating fabric system. It provides a reference for the design and application of electrical heating clothing.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44166749","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"An application of virtual twins for fit prediction: case study of women jackets","authors":"Sida Wan, V. Kuzmichev","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-08-2021-0106","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-08-2021-0106","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to present a fit prediction case study of virtual twins of women jacket. For this reason, several basic principles of clothes fit prediction were developed and verified.Design/methodology/approachTo develop the principles of fit prediction, the women's jacket sleeve was selected as the study object. The study objects were categorized into three types: the patterns and two virtual sleeves generating on full avatar from Clo3D and on dummy (arm partly removed). Through series of subjective and objective evaluation experiments, the relationship between the similar indexes of the patterns and the virtual sleeves was built, including fit criteria range, the categorization of the indexes in terms of its sensitiveness, and the linear regressions to predict several indexes of virtual sleeves after its pattern parameterization. The results obtained were verified in case study by the virtual and real sleeves generating.FindingsThe proposed principles of clothing fit prediction based on parallel research of the flat patterns and its virtual 3D shapes. The principles include the choosing of virtual twins of human body for virtual try-on, the establishing of indexes common schedule for patterns and virtual sleeves, the creation of criteria and its ranges for perfect fit and poor fit evaluation, and the application of existing relations between the patterns and the sleeves for predicting indexes responsible for fit.Research limitations/implicationsThe authors propose and verify the validity of the principles to predict several parameters of virtual 3D sleeve of women's jacket which are forming the level of fit. The result of this study can be used to convenient fit prediction and to find the misfit reasons.Practical implicationsThis study developed basic principles for predicting the fit of the clothing through the virtual simulation and the statistical analysis. Through studying the jacket sleeve, the several related ranges, the row of more sensitive indexes, and the equations were presented and verified, which certified the validity of proposed principles.Social implicationsThe results can effectively predict the sleeve fit before sewing, which reduce the time and materials cost and the operator's skill requirements.Originality/valueThe authors propose and verify the validity of the principles to predict several parameters of virtual 3D sleeve of women's jacket which form the level of fit. The result of this study can be used for convenient fit prediction and to find the misfit reasons.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43962268","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}