International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology最新文献

{"title":"Design and modeling of partial knitting knitted fabric based on matrix transformation","authors":"Bilian Cheng, Gaoming Jiang, Junjie Zhao, Bingxian Li","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0085","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0085","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this paper is to conveniently and accurately design partial knitting knitted fabrics based on matrix transformation. Design/methodology/approach Using mathematical modeling, the pattern diagram block matrix and process design matrix of partial knitting knitted fabrics are established, and the process knitting diagram with parameter information is generated. Based on the establishment of the mathematical model of the process knitting diagram, a loop deformation method based on three-dimensional (3D) coordinate point matrix transformation is proposed. Findings The matrix transformation method can provide a suitable deformed loop mode for partial knitting knitted fabrics and helps to generate a 3D modeling diagram conveniently. Originality/value This paper proposed a method of design and modeling of partial knitting knitted fabric based on matrix transformation. Taking the 3D modeling effect of conventional partial knitting as an example to test the modeling method, the results show that after matrix transformation, the loop model can realize the rapid transformation and calculation of the coordinates of the control point and generate a 3D modeling diagram.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":"75 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135355128","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Novel measurement of fabric bending anisotropy","authors":"Chengxia Liu","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-03-2022-0044","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-03-2022-0044","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose Under the widely used testing methods for fabric bending behavior, only one result for one direction can be obtained by using one fabric which is low efficient. To obtain fabric bending anisotropy, it is necessary to conduct a great many testing experiments. The purpose of this paper is to investigate a novel, efficient and visual method that can measure fabric bending anisotropy. Design/methodology/approach Fabrics are first cut into special shapes with eight strips including four directions, 0°(warp direction), 90°(weft direction), 45 and 135°(true bias), then are put onto the self-designed instrument. After that a camera is used to take picture from the right above the prism. New parameters, projection area, projection length, projection length, falling height and falling index (S, L, H and I in short) are obtained. Furthermore, standard deviation of them (SDS, SDL, SDH and SDI in short) are extracted for the characterization of bending anisotropy. Findings Results show that the new method has good feasibility and S, L and I can be used to express fabric bending property well. Of all the four new parameters, SDL has the highest correlation with SD of bending length, SDS the second and SDH the third. That is, SDL can characterize bending anisotropy best. Taken convenience of data acquisition and correlation into consideration, bending length L is the best parameter. Average L and SDL in four directions can be combined to express the comprehensive bending behavior of fabrics. Originality/value The new method can measure and characterize both the fabric bending property and bending anisotropy. Besides its high efficiency, it can display fabric bending or bending anisotropy visually and directly.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135824886","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Defect detection of color-patterned fabric based on DenoisingGAN","authors":"Hongwei Zhang, Shih-Ping Wang, Hongmin Mi, Shuai Lu, Le Yao, Zhiqiang Ge","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-03-2022-0032","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-03-2022-0032","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe defect detection problem of color-patterned fabric is still a huge challenge due to the lack of manual defect labeling samples. Recently, many fabric defect detection algorithms based on feature engineering and deep learning have been proposed, but these methods have overdetection or miss-detection problems because they cannot adapt to the complex patterns of color-patterned fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to propose a defect detection framework based on unsupervised adversarial learning for image reconstruction to solve the above problems.Design/methodology/approachThe proposed framework consists of three parts: a generator, a discriminator and an image postprocessing module. The generator is able to extract the features of the image and then reconstruct the image. The discriminator can supervise the generator to repair defects in the samples to improve the quality of image reconstruction. The multidifference image postprocessing module is used to obtain the final detection results of color-patterned fabric defects.FindingsThe proposed framework is compared with state-of-the-art methods on the public dataset YDFID-1(Yarn-Dyed Fabric Image Dataset-version1). The proposed framework is also validated on several classes in the MvTec AD dataset. The experimental results of various patterns/classes on YDFID-1 and MvTecAD demonstrate the effectiveness and superiority of this method in fabric defect detection.Originality/valueIt provides an automatic defect detection solution that is convenient for engineering applications for the inspection process of the color-patterned fabric manufacturing industry. A public dataset is provided for academia.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49145920","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Encapsulation of helichrysum oil with inclusion complex and investigation of antibacterial activities in cotton fabrics","authors":"G. Kartal","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0156","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0156","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe aim of this study was to prepare antibacterial capsules and transfer them to cotton fabrics using the impregnation method.Design/methodology/approachFor this purpose, helichrysum oil was encapsulated by ß-cyclodextrin (ß-CD) using the kneading method at three different molar ratios. The products were then applied to 100% cotton fabric through the impregnation method.FindingsMorphological assessment showed that the inclusion complex had smooth surfaces and spherical shapes. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimeter analysis results confirmed the formation of the inclusion complex between ß-CD and the active agent at mole ratios of 1:1, 1:2 and 1:3 for helichrysum oil. According to the analyses, it was determined that the highest complexing rate was between 9.72% and 1:2 in capsules containing ß-CD:helichrysum oil and the sizes of particles which is 1:2 are determined to be between 2 and 25 µm. The presence of capsules on the fabrics was determined after 5 washing cycles. Antibacterial activity was evaluated against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria. The antibacterial analysis results showed that the inclusion complex provided a reduction of over 96% against both S. aureus and E. coli bacteria, and the fabrics exhibited antibacterial effects even after 5 washing cycles. The major constituents of the oil were decreased after 5 washes, but significant peaks were remained according to the gas chromatography analyses. These results indicate that helichrysum oil can be used for its antibacterial properties, and it has been observed that this activity continues up to 5 washes when transferred to the fabric in the form of an inclusion complex.Originality/valueAlthough helichrysum oil is widely used in cosmetics, there is a lack of studies on its application in textiles. Therefore, this study investigated the potential use of helichrysum oil, which has a wide range of applications, in textiles for its antibacterial properties through molecular encapsulation. The use of naturally sourced substances such as helichrysum oil in the textile industry can offer an environmental and sustainable alternative. This study can be considered as a step toward the development of innovative and naturally sourced antibacterial products in the textile industry.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42614455","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Optimal strategies for a multi-channel recycling supply chain in the clothing industry: considering consumer types","authors":"He Huang, Weining Wang, Yujie Yin","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-09-2022-0128","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-09-2022-0128","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThis study aims to focus on the clothing recycling supply chain and aims to provide optimal decisions and managerial insights into supply chain strategies, thereby facilitating the sustainable development of the clothing industry.Design/methodology/approachBased on previous single- and dual-channel studies, game theory was employed to analyze multiple recycling channels. Concurrently, clothing consumer types were integrated into the analytical models to observe their impact on supply chain strategies. Three market scenarios were modeled for comparative analysis, and numerical experiments were conducted.FindingsThe intervention of fashion retailers in the clothing recycling market has intensified competition across the entire market. The proportions of various consumer types, their preferences for online platforms and their preference for the retailer’s channel influence the optimal decisions and profits of supply chain members. The diversity of recycling channels may enhance the recycling volume of clothes; however, it should meet certain conditions.Originality/valueThis study extends the existing theory from a channel dimension by exploring multiple channels. Furthermore, by investigating the classifications of clothing consumers and their influence on supply chain strategies, the theory is enhanced from the consumer perspective.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45818065","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Predicting the effect of bra pad specifications on breast deformation during jumping using a finite element method","authors":"Shiyuan Liu, Guangwu Sun, Hongfen Zuo, Xiaona Chen, Shanshan Shang, Hongyan Hu","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-02-2023-0009","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-02-2023-0009","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to predict the effect of bra pad specifications on breast deformation during jumping using a finite element (FE) method. Breast deformation is a key concern for women during exercise and can be effectively controlled with sports bras. In most studies, the deformation of breasts when wearing a sports bra is measured using motion capture devices to judge their effectiveness. However, the operation of such devices is highly complex and time-consuming. Computer-aided technology is an efficient way to simulate these experiments.Design/methodology/approachIn this study, the breast model was obtained using three-dimensional (3D) scanning. Assembling models were obtained for FE analysis using reverse engineering and computer-aided design (CAD) software. The breast deformation results were obtained by completing pre-processing, solving and post-processing in the FE simulation software. To extend the application of these models, pads of different sizes and thicknesses within the bra were constructed to simulate the effect of pads on breast deformation.FindingsThe calculated root mean square errors were <1%, which indicated good agreement between the FE and experimental data in all the models. Nipple deformation was always the largest in most models. The smallest deformation occurred at the superior position of breasts in all models. In addition, larger pads were not effective in reducing breast deformation; however, thicker pads were.Originality/valueThe method developed in this study provides an effective way to predict breast deformation in multiple positions and is convenient for designing compression bras.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45804591","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Study on the functional relationship between pressure and displacement with time for waist of elastic legwear using FEM","authors":"Rui Dan, Yu Zheng, Zhi-Qing Liu, Zhen Shi","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0074","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2022-0074","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe inward displacement perpendicular to the body surface produced by compression garment is an important index to evaluate pressure comfort and optimal design of tight clothing products. The purpose of this study is to explore the pressure distribution state at waist position of elastic legwear and then to solve the common problem of excessive pressure or easy slippage for waist of elastic legwear.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, the authors obtained the waist cross-section model of human body using CT scanning and mimics modeling and then simulated the pressure and displacement distribution after wearing sample four elastic legwear using finite element method. The dressing process of elastic legwear was divided into six periods (instantaneous, 1, 2, 4, 8 and 12 h) in this study, and the finite element software ANSYS was used to simulate the displacement and deformation of the waist cross section. The authors finally obtained the functional relationship between pressure/displacement ratio and angle using curve fitting.FindingsIn this paper, the authors obtained the functional relationship between pressure/displacement ratio and angle using curve fitting. Comparison found that the “pressure/displacement–angle” function curve showed an almost consistent trend at any time. That was to say, when the human body was in the state of clothing pressure, the corresponding displacement value of the human body can be calculated by the curve equation under the premise of known pressure value.Originality/valueThis study solves the difficult problem which hard to measure displacement values by conventional methods due to the small deformation of the human body after dressing the compression garment. Conclusions also provide a theoretical reference for evaluating pressure comfort and optimizing clothing structure for the elastic legwear, and this method is also applicable to other types of compression garment.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44719991","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Prediction of optimal 3D printing orientation using vertically sparse voxelization and modified support structure tomography","authors":"J. Jung, Seonkoo Chee, I. Sul","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0041","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0041","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeIncreasingly 3D printing is used for parts of garments or for making whole garments due to their flexibility and comfort and for functionalizing or enhancing the aesthetics of the final garment and hence adding value. Many of these applications rely on complex programming of the 3D printer and are usually provided by the vendor company. This paper introduces a simpler, easier platform for designing 3D-printed textiles, garments and other artifacts, by predicting the optimal orientation of the target objects to minimize the use of plastic filaments.Design/methodology/approachThe main idea is based on the shadow-casting analogy, which assumes that the volume of the support structure is similar to that of the shadow from virtual sunlight. The triangular elements of the target object are converted into 3D pixels with integer-based normal vectors and real-numbered coordinates via vertically sparse voxelization. The pixels are classified into several groups and their noise is suppressed using a specially designed noise-filtering algorithm called slot pairing. The final support structure volume information was rendered as a two-dimensional (2D) figure, similar to a medical X-ray image. Thus, the authors named their method modified support structure tomography.FindingsThe study algorithm showed an error range of no more than 1.6% with exact volumes and 6.8% with slicing software. Moreover, the calculation time is only several minutes for tens of thousands of mesh triangles. The algorithm was verified for several meshes, including the cone, sphere, Stanford bunny and human manikin.Originality/valueSimple hardware, such as a CPU, embedded system, Arduino or Raspberry Pi, can be used. This requires much less computational resources compared with the conventional g-code generation. Also, the global and local support structure is represented both quantitatively and graphically via tomographs.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44194330","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Making individualized men's basic body block patterns with a measuring garment incorporating stretchable capacitance sensors","authors":"KyoungOk Kim, Daisuke Iguchi, M. Takatera","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-01-2023-0004","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeTo make individualized men's basic upper garment patterns without sleeves, the authors developed a measuring garment that measures necessary body dimensions and angles all together. Additionally, the authors proposed a method for making individualized basic body block patterns using the obtained dimensions and angles.Design/methodology/approachThe authors decided on the locations of the dimensions of the body required for making the individualized garments. The authors then sewed multiple stretchable capacitance sensors to corresponding locations on a stretchable T-shirt. To obtain the dimensions with sensors of short length, the authors indirectly obtained each length from the relationship between the actual body length and the capacitance of the sensor. Beforehand, the authors obtained linear-approximation equations for the relationship between actual body dimensions and the capacitance of sensors for five participants and a dummy. The authors then used the measuring garment and the equations to obtain the body dimensions of another six participants. The authors compared the obtained and actual body dimensions to verify the equations. The authors made individualized upper-garment patterns without sleeves and garments for the 11 participants with the obtained dimensions and angles. The authors verified the proposed method in wearing tests comparing garments designed using the proposed method with conventionally designed garments.FindingsUsing the measuring garment, the authors obtained body dimensions close to actual body dimensions. A pattern of the individualized basic upper garment using the obtained dimensions and angles could be drawn. Compared with the conventional patterns, the individualized patterns had notable differences in the locations of the shoulder point and side neck point and directions of the shoulder line, which relate to the shoulder shape (i.e. square, sloping, forward, or backward). In wearing tests, all participants declared that the individualized garment better fitted their shoulders than the conventional garment without tightness around the shoulders, neck, and armpits. The proposed method with the developed measuring garment was thus found to be effective in designing individualized garments.Originality/valueThis paper presents the possibility of not only measuring body dimensions but also designing individualized basic upper garments using the proposed measuring garment. The proposed measuring garment will assist the efficient manufacture of individualized upper garments without a three-dimensional scanner or special skills.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45136102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Nonylphenols found in wastewater of activewear garments, after laundering in Aotearoa New Zealand","authors":"R. Harman, M. Salmanzadeh, Nicolas Sandoval, Pierson Rathinaraj","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0157","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0157","url":null,"abstract":"PurposeThe purpose of this research was to determine the level of nonylphenols (NPs) present in wastewater from the first launder of new activewear garments purchased in Aotearoa, New Zealand.Design/methodology/approachFifteen garments were purchased and prepared, and each was laundered separately. Wastewater was collected from each of the garments being laundered and tested for NPs, along with the controls.FindingsAccording to the obtained results, detectable levels of NPs were present in all the garments tested.Originality/valueThe results obtained from the detection of NPs present in activewear garments is the first study of its kind in New Zealand and adds to the understanding of the distance that toxic chemicals can travel when used in textile manufacturing.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48593260","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}