International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology最新文献

{"title":"Explorations of clothing-typed wearable platforms: satisfaction evaluations and displacement measurements","authors":"Jiaoli Piao, Yehyoun Kim, Ru Han, Darinka Popov, Sumin Koo","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0151","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0151","url":null,"abstract":"<h3>Purpose</h3>\u0000<p>An increasing aging population and an increasing number of people suffering from musculoskeletal disorders have increased the demand for wearable robots. Comfortable, wearable robots that can be worn like clothing are currently being investigated. However, the embedded components may be displaced owing to the flexibility of the fabrics, which can lower the sensing accuracy and limit natural body movements. This study aims to develop clothing-type wearable platforms to minimize the displacement of embedded components such as sensors and actuators while maintaining comfort.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->\u0000<h3>Design/methodology/approach</h3>\u0000<p>Four designs were developed using materials with different seam lines, that can serve as anchoring details, and flatlock stitches considering body movements and musculoskeletal structures. The wear evaluation experiment was filmed using a speed camera and analyzed using the TimeViewer software and SPSS 26.0. Based on these results, four clothing-type wearable platform designs were developed.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->\u0000<h3>Findings</h3>\u0000<p>The variation in the location of a point in the armhole among the designs was marginal. Participants were satisfied with the functionality, practicality, wearability, efficiency and ease of use of the developed designs. A final clothing-type wearable platform was developed by applying a design with the least change in location, a suitable design for each area and wear comfort.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->\u0000<h3>Originality/value</h3>\u0000<p>The results of this study contribute to the development of wearable robots by establishing clothing design data to minimize changes in sensor and actuator movements.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-12-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138579134","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics: thermal degradation properties, flame-retardant mechanism and smoke suppression","authors":"Yuan Li, Yanzhi Xia, Min Li, Jinchi Liu, Miao Yu, Yutian Li","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0063","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0063","url":null,"abstract":"<h3>Purpose</h3>\u0000<p>In this paper the aim is that Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics were prepared, and the flame retardancy of the blended nonwoven fabrics was studied by thermogravimetric analysis, vertical flame test, limiting oxygen index (LOI) and cone calorimeter test.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->\u0000<h3>Design/methodology/approach</h3>\u0000<p>The advantages of different fibers can be combined by blending, and the defects may be remedied. The study investigates whether incorporating alginate fibers into aramid fibers can enhance the flame retardancy and reduce the smoke production of prepared aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->\u0000<h3>Findings</h3>\u0000<p>Thermogravimetric analysis indicated that alginate fibers could effectively inhibit the combustion performance of aramid fibers at a higher temperature zone, leaving more residual chars for heat isolation. And vertical flame test, LOI and cone calorimeter test testified that the incorporation of alginate fibers improved the flame retardancy and fire behaviors. When the ratio of alginate fibers for aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics reached 80%, the incorporation of alginate fibers could notably decreased peak-heat release rate (54%), total heat release (THR) (29%), peak-smoke production rate (93%) and total smoke production (86%). What is more, the lower smoke production rate and lower THR of the blends vastly reduced the risk of secondary injury in fires.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->\u0000<h3>Originality/value</h3>\u0000<p>This study proposes to inhibit the flue gas release of aramid fiber and enhance the flame retardant by mixing with alginate fiber, and proposes that alginate fiber can be used as a biological smoke inhibitor, as well as a flame retardant for aramid fiber.</p><!--/ Abstract__block -->","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2023-12-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138519511","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Optimization of ultrasonic welding parameters for better seam performance","authors":"S. Raja Balasaraswathi, Jonalee D. Bajpai","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-06-2023-0079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2023-0079","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters. Design/methodology/approach This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances. Findings The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams. Originality/value The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134900837","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Identifying leather type and authenticity by optical coherence tomography","authors":"Metin Sabuncu, Hakan Özdemir","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0159","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0159","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to identify leather type and authenticity through optical coherence tomography. Design/methodology/approach Optical coherence tomography images taken from genuine and faux leather samples were used to create an image dataset, and automated machine learning algorithms were also used to distinguish leather types. Findings The optical coherence tomography scan results in a different image based on leather type. This information was used to determine the leather type correctly by optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning algorithms. Please note that this system also recognized whether the leather was genuine or synthetic. Hence, this demonstrates that optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning can be used to distinguish leather type and determine whether it is genuine. Originality/value For the first time to the best of the authors' knowledge, spectral-domain optical coherence tomography and automated machine learning algorithms were applied to identify leather authenticity in a noncontact and non-invasive manner. Since this model runs online, it can readily be employed in automated quality monitoring systems in the leather industry. With recent technological progress, optical coherence tomography combined with automated machine learning algorithms will be used more frequently in automatic authentication and identification systems.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135476749","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Research progress of automatic grasping methods for garment fabrics","authors":"Jianping Wang, Jinzhu Shen, Xiaofeng Yao, Fan Zhang","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-05-2023-0068","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-05-2023-0068","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding into the research progress, hot spots and future trends in smart gripping technology in the field of apparel smart manufacturing. Design/methodology/approach This work scrutinised the current research status of the five automatic grasping methods for garment fabrics including the pneumatic suction grasping, the electrostatic grasping, the intrusive grasping and the dexterous grasping. Specifically, the principles, characteristics, main devices and the impact on garment production were discussed. Findings In particular, soft finger of the dexterous grasping method has good flexibility and adaptability in the process of fabric grasping, which provides a new solution for garment production automation. Up to now, the reviewed method in general exhibit good grasping speed, high grasping stability and flat grasping process. However, in the face of complex fabric materials which are thin and flexible and do not return their original shapes when deformed in practical applications, the gripper for automatic fabric grasping need new technological breakthroughs in the positioning accuracy, grab efficiency and flexible grasping. Originality/value The outcomes offered an overview of the research status and future trends of the automatic grasping methods for garment fabrics in the field of apparel intelligent manufacturing. It could not only provide scholars with convenience in identifying research hot spots and building potential cooperation in the follow-up research but also assist beginners in searching core scholars and literature of great significance.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135216544","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wearable real-time multi-health parameter monitoring system","authors":"WenFeng Qin, Yunsheng Xue, Hao Peng, Gang Li, Wang Chen, Xin Zhao, Jie Pang, Bin Zhou","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0054","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0054","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this study is to design a wearable medical device as a human care platform and to introduce the design details, key technologies and practical implementation methods of the system. Design/methodology/approach A multi-channel data acquisition scheme based on PCI-E (rapid interconnection of peripheral components) was proposed. The flexible biosensor is integrated with the flexible data acquisition card with monitoring capability, and the embedded (device that can operate independently) chip STM32F103VET6 is used to realize the simultaneous processing of multi-channel human health parameters. The human health parameters were transferred to the upper computer LabVIEW by intelligent clothing through USB or wireless Bluetooth to complete the transmission and processing of clinical data, which facilitates the analysis of medical data. Findings The smart clothing provides a mobile medical cloud platform for wearable medical through cloud computing, which can continuously monitor the body's wrist movement, body temperature and perspiration for 24 h. The result shows that each channel is completely accurate to the top computer display, which can meet the expected requirements, and the wearable instant care system can be applied to healthcare. Originality/value The smart clothing in this study is based on the monitoring and diagnosis of textiles, and the electronic communication devices can cooperate and interact to form a wearable textile system that provides medical monitoring and prevention services to individuals in the fastest and most accurate way. Each channel of the system is precisely matched to the display screen of the host computer and meets the expected requirements. As a real-time human health protection platform technology, continuous monitoring of human vital signs can complete the application of human motion detection, medical health monitoring and human–computer interaction. Ultimately, such an intelligent garment will become an integral part of our everyday clothing.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135267302","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Quantifying shape similarity of female upper body silhouettes based on 2D images","authors":"Kaiyi Xu, Songling Zhao, Jian Zhang, Bingfei Gu","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0137","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2022-0137","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study focused on how to quantify the similarities of body shape based on the front and side images, and a shape comprehensive index ( I SC ) of female upper body shape based on 2D images was proposed. Design/methodology/approach In total, 190 young women were shot for front and side images, and 18 shape parameters were automatically extracted, including seven angles and 11 ratio parameters. The coefficient of variation method was used to assign different weights for related parameters, and the I SC was calculated to describe the body shape of each subject. Five cross-sectional curves of the upper body (e.g. shoulder, chest, waist, abdomen and hip) were selected for exploring the range of shape similarity. Findings According to the value of I SC , if the difference among the subjects is within the range of ±0.02, their body shapes can be regarded as similar, and the subject with the minimum distance is considered as the most similar. Error results show that the error range of the angle parameter is from 0.2° to 3.6° and the ratio range is from 0.001 to 0.119. Moreover, the t -test value among the parameters of the similar body is above 0.05, indicating that there is no significant difference for the upper body shape of the similar groups. Originality/value This method can quantify body shapes with the upper body characteristics of young women instead of subjective judgment. The study can be extended to other parts of the body and can also provide a new thought for shape similarity retrieval based on 2D images.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135366160","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thermal properties of multi-layered seamed fabrics under wet state","authors":"Samridhi Garg, Vinay Kumar Midha, Monica Sikka","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0155","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2022-0155","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Water may not accurately reflect perspiration when testing multi-layered clothes for thermal comfort in wet state. Most researchers used water or sodium chloride (NaCl) to measure wet state thermal comfort. However, human perspiration is an extremely complex mixture of aqueous chemicals, including minerals, salts, lipids, urea and lactic acid. This study compares the effects of simulated sweat solution to distilled water on the thermal behaviour of a multi-layered fabric assembly with different seam patterns. Findings Experiment results show that stitching decreases thermal resistance and thermal conductivity. Seam pattern of 10 cm diagonal spacing is more thermally resistant than 2.5 cm diagonal spacing. In comparison to that of simulated sweat, fabric that has been moistened with distilled water exhibits increased thermal conductivity. Hollow polyester wadding or micro polyester wadding as the intermediate layer exhibits greater thermal resistance than multi-layered construction with spacer fabric as middle layer. Originality/value This study considers human perspiration while designing protective clothing for wet thermal comfort.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135995005","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A review on active heating for high performance cold-proof clothing","authors":"Liang Ma, Jun Li","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-03-2021-0036","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-03-2021-0036","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The present study provides a comprehensive review of the advancements in five active heating modes for cold-proof clothing as of 2021. It aims to evaluate the current state of research for each heating mode and identify their limitations. Further, the study provides insights into the optimization of intelligent temperature control algorithms and design considerations for intelligent cold-proof clothing. Design/methodology/approach This article presents a classification of active heating systems based on five different heating principles: electric heating system, solar heating system, phase-change material (PCM) heating system, chemical heating system and fluid/air heating system. The systems are analyzed and evaluated in terms of heating principle, research advancement, scientific challenges and application potential in the field of cold-proof clothing. Findings The rational utilization of active heating modes enhances the thermal efficiency of cold-proof clothing, resulting in enhanced cold-resistance and reduced volume and weight. Despite progress in the development of the five prevalent heating modes, particularly with regard to the improvement and advancement of heating materials, the current integration of heating systems with cold-proof clothing is limited to the torso and limbs, lacking consideration of the thermal physiological requirements of the human body. Additionally, the heating modes of each system tend to be uniform and lack differentiation to meet the varying cold protection needs of various body parts. Research limitations/implications The effective application of multiple heating modes helps the human body to maintain a constant body temperature and thermal equilibrium in a cold environment. The research of heating mode is the basis for realizing the temperature control of cold-proof clothing and provides an effective guarantee for the future development of the intelligent algorithms for temperature control of non-uniform heating of body segments. Practical implications The integration of multiple heating modes ensures the maintenance of a constant body temperature and thermal balance for the wearer in cold environments. The research of heating modes forms the foundation for the temperature regulation of cold-proof clothing and lays the groundwork for the development of intelligent algorithms for non-uniform heating control of different body segments. Originality/value The present article systematically reviews five active heating modes suitable for use in cold-proof clothing and offers guidance for the selection of heating systems in future smart cold-proof clothing. Furthermore, the findings of this research provide a basis for future research on non-uniform heating modes that are aligned with the thermal physiological needs of the human body, thus contributing to the development of cold-proof clothing that is better suited to meet the thermal needs of the human body.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134946941","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A research for the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch direction on dynamic drape behaviors","authors":"Murat Demir, Gonca Balci Kilic","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0053","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-04-2023-0053","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric. Design/methodology/approach In this paper, the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch directions on dynamic drape behaviors were investigated. Fabric parts were sewn together with two types of the stitch (lockstitch and overlock stitch) on three different stitch directions (warp, weft and bias (45°)). The static drape coefficients (SDC) of unsewn and sewn fabrics were measured according to the image process method. Dynamic drape coefficients (DDC) of fabrics were also measured using the same method at six different (25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 rpms) rotation speeds. Additionally, bending length and bending rigidity were measured using the Cantilever test method. Findings Experimental results showed that stitch type and stitch directions are effective on the dynamic drape behaviors of the fabric. Overlock stitch resulted in greater DDC than the lock stitch. For both of the stitch type, DDC for the stitch on the warp direction are greater than the stitch on the weft and bias direction for all speeds. In addition, bending length, hence the bending rigidity, are greater for overlock stitch type and always weft direction resulted in greater than the warp and bias direction. Originality/value Fabric drape is vital for garment appearance and is gaining popularity with the advancement of virtual technology, enabling virtual visualization of garments. While previous studies have predominantly examined either the static or dynamic drape behavior of individual fabric panels, or solely focused on the static drape behavior of sewn fabrics, this study acknowledges the significance of incorporating the influence of stitch type and direction on dynamic drape behaviors. Considering that fabrics are sewn together to create garments and that DDC provides a more accurate representation of real-time fabric behavior compared to SDC, this research makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by investigating the impact of stitch type and direction specifically on DDC.","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134959978","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}