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Words Matter: A Content Analysis of the Definitions and Usage of the Terms for Apparel Marketed to People Living With Disabilities 词语很重要:面向残疾人销售服装术语的定义和用法的内容分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-07-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19890416
Kerri McBee-Black, Haebeen Jung
{"title":"Words Matter: A Content Analysis of the Definitions and Usage of the Terms for Apparel Marketed to People Living With Disabilities","authors":"Kerri McBee-Black, Haebeen Jung","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19890416","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19890416","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this study was to gain a baseline understanding of the terms currently used to define apparel for people living with disability (PLWD) and to encourage discussion for satisfying the apparel needs and wants of PLWD. The objectives were to conduct a literature review of the terms—adaptive, functional, universal design, and inclusive design—to survey how these terms are used in the marketplace, and to compare their usage to that in the literature. The results of a content analysis showed that adaptive is the most popular term used in the marketplace, yet, according to the literature review, reflects a medical model of disability. The term functional reflects a utilitarian purpose in the literature, with minimal application for PLWD in the marketplace. The terms universal and inclusive design are rarely used to define apparel for PLWD in the marketplace despite the heavy focus in the literature.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"18 1","pages":"166 - 181"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75409001","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 7
Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion 重点问题导论:纺织品和时尚的历史
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20935637
L. Welters, Abby Lillethun
{"title":"Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion","authors":"L. Welters, Abby Lillethun","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20935637","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20935637","url":null,"abstract":"The introduction to the focused issue draws attention to research in the history of textiles and fashion among International Textile and Apparel Association members. It is divided into three parts: the past, the present, and the future. In the first section, a review of the history of dress and textiles under the umbrella of “clothing and textiles” is provided. In the section on the present, a snapshot is given of the current situation now that dress and textile history has been accepted by a wide range of academic disciplines. Finally, suggestions are offered to move the historic area forward in the journal and the organization.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"30 1","pages":"227 - 239"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88367988","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Machine Learning (ML) for Tracking Fashion Trends: Documenting the Frequency of the Baseball Cap on Social Media and the Runway 追踪时尚趋势的机器学习(ML):记录社交媒体和t台上棒球帽的频率
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-06-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20931195
R. Getman, D. Green, K. Bala, Utkarsh Mall, Nehal Rawat, Sonia Appasamy, B. Hariharan
{"title":"Machine Learning (ML) for Tracking Fashion Trends: Documenting the Frequency of the Baseball Cap on Social Media and the Runway","authors":"R. Getman, D. Green, K. Bala, Utkarsh Mall, Nehal Rawat, Sonia Appasamy, B. Hariharan","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20931195","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20931195","url":null,"abstract":"With the proliferation of digital photographs and the increasing digitization of historical imagery, fashion studies scholars must consider new methods for interpreting large data sets. Computational methods to analyze visual forms of big data have been underway in the field of computer science through computer vision, where computers are trained to “read” images through a process called machine learning. In this study, fashion historians and computer scientists collaborated to explore the practical potential of this emergent method by examining a trend related to one particular fashion item—the baseball cap—across two big data sets—the Vogue Runway database (2000–2018) and the Matzen et al. Streetstyle-27K data set (2013–2016). We illustrate one implementation of high-level concept recognition to map a fashion trend. Tracking trend frequency helps visualize larger patterns and cultural shifts while creating sociohistorical records of aesthetics, which benefits fashion scholars and industry alike.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"1 1","pages":"281 - 296"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-06-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76041555","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 5
Fashioned Bodies in Roller Derby League Logos: Critical Analysis of Race, Gender, Body Size and Position, Clothing, and Aesthetics 时尚的身体在轮滑德比联赛标志:种族，性别，身体大小和位置，服装和美学的批判性分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-06-17 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20930086
Kelly L. Reddy-Best, D. Green, Kelsie Doty
{"title":"Fashioned Bodies in Roller Derby League Logos: Critical Analysis of Race, Gender, Body Size and Position, Clothing, and Aesthetics","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, D. Green, Kelsie Doty","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20930086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20930086","url":null,"abstract":"Revival of roller derby in the early 2000s garnered significant interest in the sport, and an extensive network of leagues began to form. By 2018, approximately 1,500 leagues were operating in North America, each with a unique logo. In this study, we focus on the league logos as a potent form of embodied fashion representation. Using content analysis, we examined all of the logos for U.S. Women’s Flat Track Derby Association–member leagues and have interpreted our findings through a critical cultural analysis. Revival of roller derby in the aughts has repositioned the sport as inclusive of diverse bodies; however, the logos tell a different story. League logos perpetuate hyperfeminized, thin-centric, white bodies—that is, the norms that derby athletes are performatively challenging through participation in the sport.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"128 1","pages":"190 - 205"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74690229","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Song Brocade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties 明清时期的宋锦
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-06-17 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20932657
Kunying Chen, D. Lu, Zimin Jin, Miao Su, Jing Jin
{"title":"Song Brocade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties","authors":"Kunying Chen, D. Lu, Zimin Jin, Miao Su, Jing Jin","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20932657","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20932657","url":null,"abstract":"Song brocade is Chinese traditional brocade that originated in the Song dynasty but flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Its delicate patterns, graceful colors, and exquisite techniques show the unique craftsmanship of ancient China. The fabric structure, pattern, and weaving technique had changed greatly because of the social environment, cultural customs, and other factors during the Ming and Qing dynasties. This article proposed a new series of classification for Song brocade patterns in Ming and Qing dynasties and recurred the fabric weave of Song brocade in Ming and Qing dynasties. Besides, the research provided a concise English-language description of historical background, varieties, and specifications based primarily on Chinese-language research publications.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"28 1","pages":"285 - 297"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87134529","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Millennials’ Intention to Use Self-Checkout Technology in Different Fashion Retail Formats: Perceived Benefits and Risks 千禧一代在不同时尚零售形式中使用自助结账技术的意图:感知的好处和风险
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-05-19 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20926577
Hanna Lee, K. Leonas
{"title":"Millennials’ Intention to Use Self-Checkout Technology in Different Fashion Retail Formats: Perceived Benefits and Risks","authors":"Hanna Lee, K. Leonas","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20926577","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20926577","url":null,"abstract":"With an increase in automation, fashion retailers started to offer a self-checkout option in their stores to meet diverse consumers’ demand. Self-checkout technology has great potential to enhance the shopping experience of millennials, who increasingly dominate the market with increasing buying power, placing convenience as their top priority in the shopping process. However, despite the potential, it is unclear what drives and inhibits millennials to use self-checkout in the fashion retail context. Therefore, the aim of this study is to examine millennials’ intention to use self-checkout in the fashion retail environment with regard to their perceptions of benefits and risks. Data were collected from 352 millennials through an online survey. Perceived benefits and risks identified in this study are the key antecedents of the intention to use self-checkout in the fashion retail stores. Also, individuals who have a low need for human interaction are more likely to use self-checkout.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"26 1","pages":"264 - 280"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-05-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75073224","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 5
Muslim Women’s Purchasing Behaviors Toward Modest Activewear in the United States 美国穆斯林女性对适度运动服的购买行为
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-05-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20926573
Chanmi Hwang, Tae Ho Kim
{"title":"Muslim Women’s Purchasing Behaviors Toward Modest Activewear in the United States","authors":"Chanmi Hwang, Tae Ho Kim","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20926573","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20926573","url":null,"abstract":"This study examines Muslim women’s purchasing behaviors toward modest activewear in the United States and tests the underlying mechanism of intent to purchase activewear, based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). A sample of veiled Muslim women (N = 328) participated in this study. Results from structural equation modeling revealed that perceived aesthetic attributes and compatibility with regard to apparel functionality, expressiveness, and aesthetics are significant predictors of attitude toward purchasing activewear. Attitude and subjective norm are significantly related to intent to purchase modest activewear, and religiosity indirectly influences purchase intention through the social norm. This research extends the TPB and contributes to the growing body of research on Muslim consumers’ purchasing behavior and to the growing modest apparel market and pro-hijab movement in the industry.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"32 1","pages":"175 - 189"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-05-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84247400","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 9
Sexy-Clothing Behavior of High School Girls: Sexual Self-Congruity and Parental and Popular Girls’ Influences 高中女生的性服饰行为:性自我和谐与父母与流行女孩的影响
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-05-11 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20923729
Jessie H. Chen-Yu, A. Elkins, Marjorie J. T. Norton
{"title":"Sexy-Clothing Behavior of High School Girls: Sexual Self-Congruity and Parental and Popular Girls’ Influences","authors":"Jessie H. Chen-Yu, A. Elkins, Marjorie J. T. Norton","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20923729","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20923729","url":null,"abstract":"The present study focused on the sexy-clothing behavior of high school girls. Specifically, we examined whether high school girls wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts and whether parents and popular girls influence those behaviors. The results, obtained by applying structural equation modeling to analyze the data collected from 384 ninth-grade girls, imply that such girls wear sexy clothes to convey their actual sexual self-concepts and achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts. The girls’ perceptions of parents’ sexy-clothing approval and of popular girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior influence the high school girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior. Parents significantly influence high school girls’ tendencies to wear sexy clothes to express their actual sexual self-concepts. Popular girls’ sexy-clothing wearing behavior influences high school girls’ tendencies to wear sexy clothes to achieve their ideal sexual self-concepts. Implications of the findings are discussed.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"34 1","pages":"123 - 138"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-05-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78008980","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Apparel Design Scholarship Practices: Analysis of ITAA Professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings From 1999 to 2017 服装设计奖学金实践:1999 - 2017年ITAA专业人士设计摘要论文集分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-29 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20921461
Young-A Lee, Seoha Min, S. Koo
{"title":"Apparel Design Scholarship Practices: Analysis of ITAA Professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings From 1999 to 2017","authors":"Young-A Lee, Seoha Min, S. Koo","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20921461","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20921461","url":null,"abstract":"We explored the topical trends of the International Textile and Apparel Association professionals’ Design Abstract Proceedings (DAP) and how apparel design scholarship has been cited in the discipline for the past two decades. Using a content analysis, three research objectives were as follows: to examine (a) designer-identified keywords trends of the DAP, (b) to examine DAP directly cited in scholarly works, and (c) to examine DAP not directly cited but related to designers’ scholarship. Six overarching themes (inspirational references, apparel design, technology, sustainability practices, textiles, and nonapparel) were identified through the keywords analysis and used for further analyses. We found that design scholars were not used to cite other relevant scholarly works or their own works in their scholarly design work. The study findings provide an awareness for the strong need to establish citation practices for design scholars, which will add to the body of knowledge in clothing and textiles and increase the impact of design scholarship beyond the discipline.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"23 1","pages":"106 - 122"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73330187","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 4
The Ties That Bind: Britain’s Use of Scottish Highland Dress 纽带:英国人对苏格兰高地服饰的使用
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-13 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x20910789
David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders
{"title":"The Ties That Bind: Britain’s Use of Scottish Highland Dress","authors":"David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders","doi":"10.1177/0887302x20910789","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20910789","url":null,"abstract":"For over 300 years, Britain has influenced Scotland’s national identity. Scottish Highland dress, which consists of kilts and tartans has been appropriated, manipulated, and transformed by the British in order to forward political, commercial, and social objectives. Scotland’s national dress has contributed to a more cohesive identity within the United Kingdom. However, available research only examines specific instances of British influence on—and usage of—kilts and tartans. The purpose of this study was to identify and explore a sample of key figures and historical events that illustrate the use of Scottish Highland dress to forward British interests. The researchers triangulated databases and secondary literature along with extant objects and materials, with the aim of developing a more holistic understanding of appropriation, manipulation, and transformation. Findings indicate how the context and usage of Scottish Highland dress was transformed over time.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"8 1","pages":"240 - 254"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84576720","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
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