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L. Candee & Co. and the U.S. Rubber Shoe Industry L. Candee & Co.和美国橡胶鞋业
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-13 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x20918018
A. Shephard
{"title":"L. Candee & Co. and the U.S. Rubber Shoe Industry","authors":"A. Shephard","doi":"10.1177/0887302x20918018","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20918018","url":null,"abstract":"The rubber shoe industry was a large and thriving industry in the 19th century. Research on this industry provides insight about technology development, the entrepreneurial spirit, the rise of industry, challenges with intellectual property rights, and efforts made to maintain market dominance in the 19th and early 20th centuries. This research examines L. Candee & Company which was one of the early rubber shoe manufacturers in the United States. A case study of this company parallels the story of the growth and decline of the rubber shoe industry. Early investment in this industry required great risk. Once established, the industry thrived and grew into a highly profitable industry. In the early 20th century, the rubber shoe industry began to decline as new technology and products were developed.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"16 1","pages":"255 - 269"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87389226","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fashion and the Buddha: What Buddhist Economics and Mindfulness Have to Offer Sustainable Consumption 时尚与佛陀:佛教经济学和正念对可持续消费的启示
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-10 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20917457
C. Armstrong
{"title":"Fashion and the Buddha: What Buddhist Economics and Mindfulness Have to Offer Sustainable Consumption","authors":"C. Armstrong","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20917457","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20917457","url":null,"abstract":"While consumers increasingly expect fashion companies to be bastions of social and environmental causes, they also aspire for fashion in ways known to erode human well-being, evidencing an ethics–behavior gap. The purpose of this conceptual article is to explore how Buddhist economics (BE) and mindfulness could narrow this gap; a spiritual consciousness making consumer ethics more consequential. Classical economic theory is contrasted with BE, a moral framework, including moderation and nonviolence. Mindfulness practice is explored as a practice used to temper consumption. It is concluded that on the topics of human nature, self-identity, and the role of possessions, fashion epitomizes human suffering, from a Buddhist standpoint. This article’s contributions include educational guide points for consumers, a proposed definition of mindful clothing consumption, and identification of theoretical blind spots in fashion consumer behavior research considerably in need of attention to better understand the relationship between clothing and human well-being.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"31 1","pages":"91 - 105"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84821272","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 7
Body Mass Index and Body Satisfaction: Does Availability of Well-Fitting Clothes Matter? 身体质量指数和身体满意度:是否有合身的衣服重要吗?
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20915528
S. Grogan, S. Gill, K. Brownbridge, Gillian McChesney, Paula Wren, Jenny Cole, John Darby, Celina Jones, C. Armitage
{"title":"Body Mass Index and Body Satisfaction: Does Availability of Well-Fitting Clothes Matter?","authors":"S. Grogan, S. Gill, K. Brownbridge, Gillian McChesney, Paula Wren, Jenny Cole, John Darby, Celina Jones, C. Armitage","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20915528","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20915528","url":null,"abstract":"Relatively little is known about the factors that mediate the relationship between high body mass index (BMI) and reduced body satisfaction. This is the first study to investigate whether availability of well-fitting clothes mediates this relationship. Eighty-five women with an age range of 18–81 years were 3D body scanned and weighed and measured at Time 1, and number of retailers stocking their sizes (determined through body scans) was calculated. At Time 2, they completed an online body satisfaction measure. Body satisfaction at Time 2 was predicted by both BMI and availability of well-fitting clothes in UK retailers at Time 1, with the two factors explaining 27% of the variance in body satisfaction. Availability of clothes size partially mediated the relationship between BMI and body satisfaction. Results suggest that the clothing retail sector might contribute to reducing body dissatisfaction by providing a wider range of choices for all sizes of consumer.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"22 1","pages":"251 - 263"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83682756","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
An Investigation Into the Effect of Different Parameters on the Dyeing of High-Performance M-Aramid Fiber and Its Optimization 不同工艺参数对高性能m -芳纶纤维染色效果的影响及优化研究
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19870872
Farooq I Azam, Kashif Iqbal, Faiza Safdar, T. Hussain, M. Ashraf, A. Rehman
{"title":"An Investigation Into the Effect of Different Parameters on the Dyeing of High-Performance M-Aramid Fiber and Its Optimization","authors":"Farooq I Azam, Kashif Iqbal, Faiza Safdar, T. Hussain, M. Ashraf, A. Rehman","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19870872","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19870872","url":null,"abstract":"M-aramid fibers have very good flame-retardant properties and are mostly used in protective textiles such as racing or firefighter suits. The dyeing and fastness properties of m-aramid fibers are investigated in this article in a batch process to optimize dyeing parameters such as dye concentration, salt, swelling agent, and temperature. The exhaustion at an acidic pH, preferably in the range of 4–5, indicated good results. The color yield of m-aramid fibers was found to be dependent on the concentration of swelling agent, salt, and dye, as well as the dyeing temperature. The effect of swelling agent on the K/S of m-aramid fibers with cationic dyes, along with their fastness properties, is investigated and reported in detail.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"11 1","pages":"103 - 90"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74279415","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
“Fat People Exercise Too!”: Perceptions and Realities of Shopping for Women’s Plus-Size Exercise Apparel “胖子也锻炼!”:购买女性大码运动服装的认知与现实
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19878507
C. Greenleaf, Caitlyn Hauff, L. Klos, G. Serafin
{"title":"“Fat People Exercise Too!”: Perceptions and Realities of Shopping for Women’s Plus-Size Exercise Apparel","authors":"C. Greenleaf, Caitlyn Hauff, L. Klos, G. Serafin","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19878507","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19878507","url":null,"abstract":"Women, regardless of size, should have access to functional, fashionable, and affordable exercise apparel. Grounded in Lamb and Kallal’s Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic Consumer Needs Model, we explored (a) women’s perceptions of plus-size exercise apparel and shopping experiences and (b) plus-size exercise apparel at online retailers. In Study 1, women reported their shopping behaviors, satisfaction, affect, and feedback for designer and retailers. In Study 2, availability, cost, and color variety of plus-size exercise T-shirts were documented at online retailers. Images of product models and sizing chart variations were examined. Women were generally dissatisfied with apparel-related functionality, fashionability, and cost. Plus-size exercise T-shirts at online retailers were limited in color variety and size availability and cost more than straight-size apparel. Unrealistic models and wide sizing variations appear problematic. Advocacy and action are needed to provide women with larger bodies’ equitable access to functional, expressive, aesthetic, and affordable exercise apparel.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"49 1","pages":"75 - 89"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82956727","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 8
Clothing Pressure Modeling Using the Modified Laplace’s Law 基于修正拉普拉斯定律的服装压力建模
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19880270
H. Barhoumi, S. Marzougui, S. Abdessalem
{"title":"Clothing Pressure Modeling Using the Modified Laplace’s Law","authors":"H. Barhoumi, S. Marzougui, S. Abdessalem","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19880270","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19880270","url":null,"abstract":"Today, various kinds of pressure garments are designed for specific applications in medical and sports fields. Knitted garments are the most used in these applications due to their high extensibility. The objective of the investigation reported in this article was to develop a theoretical relationship based on Laplace’s law, which describes the compression behavior of knitted compression samples in quasi-static deformation from an initially relaxed state to an extended state. Even though several researchers have used Laplace’s law, there is some discord between theoretical and experimental results. So, it is essential to pinpoint the most important parameters that influence the mechanical properties of the compression knitted garment in order to better describe the interface pressure it applies to the human body. Fabric parameters that influenced the interface pressure, such as elasticity modulus, strain, and thickness, were determined and integrated into Laplace’s law.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"59 1","pages":"134 - 147"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79989375","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 9
American Vogue and Sustainable Fashion (1990–2015): A Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis 美国时尚与可持续时尚(1990-2015):多模态批评话语分析
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-04-01 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X19881508
K. Jones
{"title":"American Vogue and Sustainable Fashion (1990–2015): A Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis","authors":"K. Jones","doi":"10.1177/0887302X19881508","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19881508","url":null,"abstract":"Discursive practices employed by American Vogue to recontextualize sustainable fashion between 1990 and 2015 were explored through the lens of a discourse-historical approach and multimodal critical discourse analysis. References to sustainably minded values and actions were found throughout the 26 years studied with notable peaks and valleys in coverage that, at times, contradicted changing social interest in the subject. Over time, Vogue recontextualized sustainable fashion discourses and encouraged a passive revolution by moving from a contentious positioning of either/or sustainable fashion to one that embraced a both/and positionality by narrowing focus to lifestyle and product features. Additionally, Vogue celebrated social actors engaged in sustainable behaviors though these were increasingly positioned as lifestyle choices rather than revolutionary collective action. Vogue continuously recontextualized the sustainable fashion discourse as “new” and desirable while neutralizing most negative considerations of fashion consumption through a variety of articulations and by drawing on well-established semiotic resources.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"140 1","pages":"104 - 118"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75622948","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Teaching Sustainability in Fashion Design Courses Through a Zero-Waste Design Project 通过零浪费设计项目在时装设计课程中教授可持续性
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-02-21 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20906470
H. Gam, J. Banning
{"title":"Teaching Sustainability in Fashion Design Courses Through a Zero-Waste Design Project","authors":"H. Gam, J. Banning","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20906470","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20906470","url":null,"abstract":"With the increased importance of learning about sustainability in fashion design curriculum, this article reports the teaching zero-waste design in existing fashion design courses that teach skills needed to create and construct garments. This study documents the development and delivery of a zero-waste design project in two different levels of fashion design courses. Data were collected before and after the zero-waste design project implementation. By learning about zero-waste design, students’ interest in sustainable living and fashion and consciousness about generating fabric waste was increased. Written comments about student experiences also supported these findings and indicated that the zero-waste design project positively influenced their awareness of sustainability practices.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"85 1","pages":"151 - 165"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-02-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72970421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 12
The Use of Dress in Objectification Research 服装在物化研究中的应用
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-02-20 DOI: 10.1177/0887302X20907158
S. Lennon, K. Johnson
{"title":"The Use of Dress in Objectification Research","authors":"S. Lennon, K. Johnson","doi":"10.1177/0887302X20907158","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20907158","url":null,"abstract":"To objectify another person is to dehumanize and treat that person as an object. Objectification has interested dress scholars, and some objectification scholars have acknowledged that clothing and bodies act to facilitate or resist objectification. Research purposes were to determine the extent to which dress had been used to evoke objectification in experiments when objectification was an outcome and to determine whether internal validity had been correctly established. Experimental objectification research was content analyzed using descriptive statistics. A database search resulted in 80 refereed empirical research articles containing 91 experiments. Dress was used to evoke objectification in 57 experiments; yet, many provided no rationale for using dress stimuli or conducted manipulation checks or stimulus pretests. These practices call into question the validity of research results and may explain inconsistent results. Opportunities for dress scholars and recommendations for teaching and for research best practices are offered.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"128 1","pages":"196 - 211"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-02-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86591718","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type 《在衣服上使用线条会产生神奇的效果》:给1914年至1961年女性关于使用线条设计理想身材的建议
IF 1.9 4区 管理学
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2020-02-18 DOI: 10.1177/0887302x20905358
Jessica L. Ridgway
{"title":"The “Use of Lines in Your Clothing Will Work Magic”: Advice to Women From 1914 to 1961 on Using Line to Design an Ideal Body Type","authors":"Jessica L. Ridgway","doi":"10.1177/0887302x20905358","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20905358","url":null,"abstract":"Women have sought and received advice on how to dress for as long as they have been putting clothing on their bodies. One area in which women have received advice on dressing for their body type is the use of line in dress as an illusion to change the way body shape and size is perceived. This study was undertaken to gain a better historical understanding of advice on dressing for different body types between 1914 and 1961. Advice books and textbooks written for women from 1914 to 1961 that included prescriptive information on how to dress for various body types were explored. This time period was selected as it coincides with critical years in the growth and maturity of the home economic movement in the United States. A content analysis of 15 historical texts revealed trends found within the themes of body ideal, line as illusion, and figure types.","PeriodicalId":47110,"journal":{"name":"Clothing and Textiles Research Journal","volume":"44 8 1","pages":"270 - 284"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9,"publicationDate":"2020-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89369240","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"管理学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
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