{"title":"Away from Violence toward Justice: A Content Analysis of Cultural Appropriation Claims from 2013–2020","authors":"Kristian Hogans, Laura E. McAndrews","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2118333","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2118333","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The purpose of the study was to explore instances of cultural appropriation by fashion designers and brands (FD&B), identify cultural sources of inspiration, and, through a justice-centered lens, critique how practices of appropriation manifest as violence. A latent content analysis approach was utilized to focus on the underlying meanings of cultural appropriation in the fashion design practices of fashion designers and brands. Cultural appropriation practices manifested through three theme categories: a) the white lens, b) the capitalist motive, and c) negligence in the research process. Analysis showed that practices extend beyond the traditional definition of cultural appropriation, the apparel design process has connections to violent practices that manifest in cultural appropriation, and positionality plays a role in the apparel design process and research. Future areas of research are suggested concerning cultural appropriation research, the apparel design process, and apparel design education.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"67 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77322773","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Fashion Buying Career of Vanessa Denza: A Case Study Analysis to Inform Future Buying Skills","authors":"K. Almond","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2116147","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2116147","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article traces the long career of the international fashion buyer and recruitment consultant, Vanessa Denza. It is the first study to document Denza’s profession and incorporates research secured from access to her private work archive, which was located at her home in Berkshire, England. With no formal education in buying, Denza took a series of internships that formed the beginning of her on-the-job training as a fashion buyer and led to an important role as the buyer for a pioneering store aimed at younger people, The 21 Shop at Woollands in Knightsbridge, London, UK. Here, she promoted exciting designers who worked with revolutionary new shapes and colours and introduced radical new ways to sell fashion. Subsequent roles led to her directing a series of global fashion boutiques; the establishment of her international fashion buying office and recruitment consultancy; and an influential role in developing global fashion education. The article pinpoints the key buying skills that Denza considered essential within her career and seeks opinions on them in relation to future skills requirements for fashion buying. The aim is to understand and contextualise this expertise within in an ever-changing, global fashion industry.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"43 1","pages":"326 - 348"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84604835","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Application of Design Intervention in the Sri Lankan Handloom Industry","authors":"T. Wanniarachchi, D. Dissanayake, C. Downs","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2112423","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2112423","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract To be competitive in the marketplace, the community handloom craft business needs to be combined with contemporary sensibility and innovation in order to create goods that meet existing consumer demands. This study explores craft-design collaboration possibilities and finds co-creation is an effective means to overcome challenges to design intervention and market identification. Through a qualitative approach, this case study and participatory action research developed collaborative innovation between designers and craftspeople through a co-creation process. This employment of design interventions has the potential to help develop handloom community businesses by providing appropriate product design solutions. The results will aid the handloom industry and government in developing strategic design approaches that consider social, economic, and cultural factors.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"70 1","pages":"184 - 207"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90169351","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Limited or Limitless? Exploring the Potential of NFTs on Value Creation in Luxury Fashion","authors":"Bethan Alexander, Niccolò Bellandi","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2118969","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2118969","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Accelerated by the global pandemic, the speed of technology adoption has significantly increased, resulting in new business opportunities, channels, touchpoints and digital toolkits. One such burgeoning technology which is generating increasing attention is Nonfungible tokens (NFTs). Adopting an exploratory approach, this study aims to develop a deeper understanding of the value of NFTs from a luxury business and consumer perspective. Taking a qualitative approach, interviews were conducted with luxury experts and consumers, totaling 11 informants. Our findings revealed new technology acceptance and value dimensions in addition to the existing dimensions from literature, within a luxury context, from which two models ensue, NFT value creation and NFT digital strategies. The research makes a valuable contribution to the paucity of existing scholarly studies on blockchain and NFTs and their value creation within a luxury context. It serves to provide preliminary insight into perceptions toward and potential value creation of NFTs for both luxury industry and consumers to inform future luxury digital strategies.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"52 1","pages":"376 - 400"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75752973","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Digital Fashion Revolutions: Supply Chain Transparency, Digitalization and the Non-Disclosure Paradox","authors":"H. Heim","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2118975","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2118975","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The emergence of digital technology as a ‘cure-all’ for sustainable practice has captured the imagination of observers and entrepreneurs alike. Among these technologies, blockchain has been cited as the ideal tool to optimize supply chain transparency. However, despite the abundance of effusively disseminated information in the media, the lack of blockchain applications that are universally accessible, and their negligible uptake raises doubts as to its utility. In particular, small to medium enterprises (SMEs) have for several reasons been slow to adopt blockchain technologies. ‘Digital hesitancy’; lack of common data standards; complex and tedious data collection and transfer; immaturity of the technology; no effective universal platform; lack of resources; and reluctance to share data with perceived competitors are common obstacles. This study explores one of these barriers to adoption, that is, the reluctance to disclose supply chain information to potential competitors. Taking a qualitative approach, the study analyses the current perception of blockchain enabled supply chain transparency through interviews with small scale fashion firms and technology start-ups. Applying a lens of technology adoption theories, the study seeks to understand how supply chain transparency might be satisfactorily managed and even accelerated through technology uptake. A misunderstanding of the software’s capabilities is evident. Many firms seem unaware that the software can be applied to provide managed access to information—arguably providing an advantage over extant transparency measures such as public self disclosure or reliance on third party certifications. This study identifies that because of lack of ‘education’, firms are ill-informed and under-utilizing technologies that are potentially more advantageous than current analogue approaches—that could circumvent the information disclosure paradox.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"19 4","pages":"329 - 351"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72473738","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Young Consumer Perspectives on Government Policy Interventions for Sustainable Fashion Consumption in the UK","authors":"Eunsuk Hur, Eleanor Faragher- Siddall","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2125149","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2125149","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Sustainability has been one of the most salient issues in the fashion industry in recent years. The COVID-19 pandemic has prompted a reawakening of the environmental and ethical issues in garment production and consumption. Young consumers are actively raising their voices on the currently unsustainable state of the fashion industry system. Despite this, their perspectives on policy intervention in sustainable fashion are often overlooked. This study focuses on the challenges associated with sustainable consumption behaviors among young consumers and reveals the enabling factors that leverage sustainable actions via policy intervention. In-depth interviews were conducted to investigate the potential effectiveness of proposed policies in creating effective behavioral change within the UK market. The study found that eco-labelling and educational policies have particularly high levels of consumer support. Eco-labelling is considered a critical educational and awareness-raising tool for supporting sustainable fashion consumption; however, the existing labelling approach is inadequate due to the complexity of current terminology, lack of eco-literacy, and consumers’ distrust of industry claims about eco-products, flagging a need to ensure industry transparency. New attention-grabbing labelling, universal eco-terminology and more effective and transparent green communication strategies using a combination of physical and other digital communication are required.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"1 1","pages":"405 - 427"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90801011","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"“Experiential Retail Environments” in the Fashion Sector","authors":"Elisa Servais, Quartier Katelijn, V. Jan","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2124639","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2124639","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article examines the phenomenon of “Experiential Retail Environments” (EREs) in the fashion sector in view of being useful to retail design practice. A discovery-oriented research approach was applied to understand: (i) what an ERE is; (ii) how in-store experience is triggered; and (iii) how the experiential dimension is integrated in the retail designer’s processes. Data were collected through the combination of a literature review and interviews conducted with representatives of the stakeholder groups most concerned with fashion retail design projects: retailers, retail designers, and customers. The research provided valuable clarifications. First, it helped to propose two definitions for the term ERE, one more specifically suited to a retail professional audience and the other accounting for the customer perspective. Second, it showed in-store experience to be created at two levels: through the combination of tangible aspects that generates varying customer perceptions, representing a more conceptual level for the experience. Finally, it surfaced that though there is a call for more experience integration in the fashion retail sector, currently, there is no systematic approach for this in the physical retail design process. In most cases, experiential considerations are left to the retailer and dealt with after the store concept has been designed.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"24 1","pages":"449 - 468"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72936992","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Towards Transformation: Digitalization, Sustainability and Customer Experience","authors":"Alexander Bethan, C. Rutter","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2129468","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2129468","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"37 1","pages":"319 - 328"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74518859","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"“It’s the Time You Got to Wear Whatever You Wanted”: Pre-Teen Girls Negotiating Gender, Sexuality and Age through Fashion","authors":"Julie Blanchard-Emmerson","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2118974","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2118974","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Worries about the marketing of fashion to pre-teen girls and the power of fashionable clothes to sexualize these girls, have been on-going for some time. However, there is little research with this age group of girls that explicitly explores the ways in which fashionable clothes are understood and worn by the girls themselves and the impact on their sense of identity. Yet girls are increasingly considered in childhood sociology to be competent social actors able to articulate something of their own interactions and understanding of their social worlds. This study uses focus groups, participant photography and interviews with 32 predominately white, middle-class girls from the South of England, to examine pre-teen girls’ fashion practices to address this gap in knowledge. This article argues that young girls are active and thoughtful in their consumption of dress, aware of the construction of gender norms in responding to aged sexual expectations as they decide what to wear. In considering the context of their constructions of aged, gendered and (a)sexualized identity, girls code-switched between identity forms, actively constituting their subjectivity through clothing.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"4 1","pages":"428 - 448"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73060795","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Enhancing User Experience in Fashion m-Retail: Mapping Shopping User Journey Using Google Analytics, Eye Tracking Technology and Retrospective Think Aloud Interview","authors":"Zofija Tupikovskaja-Omovie","doi":"10.1080/17569370.2022.2129466","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2129466","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract With increased mobile traffic to fashion retailers’ websites, conversion rates are lower than for desktop users. Mobile consumers more readily abandon retailers if not satisfied with their shopping experience. There is a dearth of literature involving Google Analytics to analyze digital consumer shopping behavior and customer journeys. Retailers need to innovate the ways they approach the vast amount of digital analytics data. This research highlights the need for continuous auditing of Google Analytics data to ensure retailers understand the behavior of their mobile consumers and respond to their needs accordingly. A multi-method research design incorporated mobile fashion consumer data from Google Analytics, innovative mobile eye tracking technology and retrospective think aloud. A comparison of consumer shopping journeys showed that a Digital User Journey Mapping Framework based on eye tracking data can be used to audit Google Analytics datasets and to understand what elements of the fashion retailer’s website consumers prefer to interact with. Retrospective think aloud interviews complementing eye tracking experiments define how digital user experience can be improved in fashion m-retail. The shopping journey map framework can be used for mobile fashion consumer behavior analysis, auditing Google Analytics datasets and enhancing digital user experience.","PeriodicalId":44329,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry","volume":"22 1","pages":"352 - 375"},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81160900","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}