{"title":"Du coton traditionnel au coton colonial, le coup de force du progrès (Nord-Cameroun)","authors":"C. Seignobos","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4067","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4067","url":null,"abstract":"Pays sous mandat de la Societe des Nations (SDN) le Cameroun a echappe au coton colonial. La region du nord a pu ainsi prolonger un tres actif artisanat de tissage fonde sur une gamme de cotonniers locaux cultives en perenne. Avertie des exces et des derives de la culture du coton imposee dans les annees 1930 au Tchad, l’administration coloniale du Cameroun dans son ensemble est opposee a son introduction sur son territoire. Elle se fait en cela l’echo des chefs locaux qui, eux-memes, relaient les craintes de leurs populations.Pourtant en 1950, contre l’avis de tous, le Haut Commissaire de la Republique francaise, nouvellement nomme au Cameroun, va proner le coton comme la seule speculation capable de faire sortir le nord du pays de son retard economique. Sa reussite tient a l’equipe mise en place par le responsable de la CFDT (Compagnie francaise pour le developpement des fibres textiles). Cette genese, fruit de l’interventionnisme de l’Etat, devait marquer par la suite les pratiques de la societe cotonniere CFDT-Sodecoton.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126371440","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Tightening the thread from seed to cloth. New enquiries in the archaeology of Old World cotton","authors":"C. Bouchaud, Elsa Yvanez, J. Wild","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4501","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4501","url":null,"abstract":"« Un homme qui passe remarque un arbuste dont les branches se terminent par des flocons blancs. On peut imaginer qu’il approche la main. L’espece humaine vient de faire connaissance avec la douceur du coton. »« Pour comprendre les mondialisations, celles d’hier et celle d’aujourd’hui, rien ne vaut l’examen d’un morceau de tissu. Sans doute parce qu’il n’est fait que de fils et de liens, et des voyages de la navette. »Erik Orsenna 2006 – Voyage au pays du coton, 11-12, 17 Introduction In these...","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"152 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134373338","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Domestication and varietal diversification of Old World cultivated cottons (Gossypium sp.) in the Antiquity","authors":"Christopher Viot","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4404","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4404","url":null,"abstract":"Textile use of the cotton fibres from the Old World species Gossypium arboreum (Tree Cotton) and G. herbaceum (Levant Cotton) started around eight thousand years ago and possibly earlier. During the third millennium before the present, cotton cultivation, textile use and trading developed strongly in many places of the Indian Subcontinent and the Near East, but the species involved are often undetermined. Gossypium arboreum and G. herbaceum are difficult to distinguish morphologically when dealing with archaeological remains. Many traditional varieties have been described for each of these two species; an evolution is apparent from perennial, rather primitive forms through to annual varieties and modern phenotypes, with adaptations to cultivation in diverse conditions, including cold climates and short summers. The present work examines which varieties could have been cultivated in the Antiquity and in which regions had cotton cultivation spread then. Some extant varieties are hypothesized as close to the cultivars of Antiquity. The geographic distribution of each species probably reflects the initial domestication region and the subsequent adaptations, particularly regarding climate. Recent progress on ancient DNA analysis should permit easier specific assignments of archaeological remains of cotton seeds, fibres, threads or fabrics.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"103 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134637164","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Cotton textiles from the Byzantine period to the Medieval period in ancient Palestine","authors":"O. Shamir","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4176","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4176","url":null,"abstract":"In ancient Palestine, the early presence of cotton textiles can only be attested by one net dated to the Roman period. Cotton was first imported in small quantities during the Byzantine period, in the 5th-7th c. CE. During the Early Islamic Period, in the 7th century CE, wool was still dominant in Palestine, while important groups of cotton textiles were notably found at Nahal ‘Omer. They were mostly made of Z-spun threads and included precious ikats. Cotton textiles such as garments and shrouds (mostly S-spun) were discovered at Qasr el-Yahud, on the west bank of the Jordan River, dated to the 8th-9th c. CE. Cotton fragments, including resist-dyed textiles, have also been discovered at Cave 38 in the Qarantal cliff above Jericho, and date from the 9th century CE to the end of the 13th century CE. This article will provide the reader with a broad overview of cotton textile finds from the region, focusing on key sites but also listing the other discoveries. It will discuss the possible origin of the cotton textiles, and the co-development of the textile trade and local production, through the Late Antique and medieval periods.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"70 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116418283","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Dissemination and price of cotton in Mesopotamia during the 1st millennium BCE","authors":"L. Quillien","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4239","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4239","url":null,"abstract":"The archaeological finds attest that cotton textiles appeared in Mesopotamia during the 1st millennium B.C. The first attempt to cultivate this plant, according to the available written sources, was by the Assyrian king Sennacherib, and also dates back to this period. However, the identification of the word for cotton in Akkadian is still the subject of debate. The present paper will first clear up these debates and summarize the current arguments in favour of the most probable hypothesis: the term kidinnu would refer to cotton. From this postulate, the crossing of archaeological and textual data will allow us to make an attempt at chronology of the spread of cotton in the region. Then, a study of the different uses of cotton will shed light on the social status and on the economic value of this textile fibre in Mesopotamia. Indeed, although cotton was a new product in Mesopotamia in the 1st millennium BCE, its price remained moderate and it was not a luxury product.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"24 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131570374","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Cotton in ancient Sudan and Nubia","authors":"Elsa Yvanez, M. Woźniak","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4429","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4429","url":null,"abstract":"Since Pliny the Elder described the “wool-bearing trees” of Aethiopia in his Natural History, the cultivation of cotton has been a well-known aspect of the textile production of ancient Sudan. It was confirmed during the first decades of Sudanese archaeology by the discovery of many cotton textiles found in Meroe and Lower Nubia, and more recently completed by several archaeobotanical studies conducted in the same regions. The aim of this article is to survey the whole span of data pertaining to cotton in ancient Sudan, collecting information from different sources and chronological periods, so as to trace the evolution of cotton production from the Meroitic to the medieval times. New discoveries have led to a regain of interest for textile research in this part of the world, which will help us contextualize cotton cultivation within the wider framework of clothing and social display, as well as textile craft and the organization of the economy. This multi-disciplinary approach will highlight the important role of Sudan and Nubia in the development of cotton production and exchange in the ancient world.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"11 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117279584","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Le coton, sa culture et son utilisation selon les sources arabes médiévales","authors":"J. Ducène","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4098","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4098","url":null,"abstract":"Les sources medievales arabes qui relevent de la litterature technique indiquent une lente mais continuelle progression du coton depuis le domaine iranien dans la direction de l’ouest, avec neanmoins d’importantes variations regionales. L’essentiel des termes qui designent la plante et ses produits sont des emprunts passes par le pehlevi mais arabises tres tot, ce qui indique l’anciennete de l’adoption de la fibre. A partir du Xe siecle, on suit la diffusion du produit vers l’ouest, notamment au travers d’ouvrages de botanique et d’agronomie, alors que les professions liees au coton se singularisent egalement dans les sources, que ce soit dans le traitement de la fibre ou la vente du produit.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"32 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126561741","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Le coton à El Deir","authors":"Fleur Letellier-Willemin","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4283","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.4283","url":null,"abstract":"La presence du coton a el-Deir (oasis de Kharga, desert occidental egyptien) est une decouverte archeologique recente, essentiellement d’origine funeraire. Bien qu’atteste en tres petite quantite, le coton et son etude permettent de mettre en evidence des categories textiles aux qualites variees et aux usages divers. Il semble interessant, par ailleurs, d’etudier son evolution qualitative sur le site, parallelement aux deux autres fibres en presence, le lin et la laine. Cette nouvelle fibre apporte un eclairage nouveau sur la vie des habitants, leurs pratiques funeraires, leur economie, et questionne sur les changements possibles dans la gestion du territoire et du commerce durant l’Antiquite (ve s. AEC.-ve s. EC).","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131881099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Ethnozoology of bushmeat","authors":"Romain Duda, S. Gallois, V. Reyes‐García","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.3976","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.3976","url":null,"abstract":"In the Congo Basin, food is an everyday concern and its acquisition and transformation often structure many of the activities of a human group. While agriculture provides the main source of calories, meat of wild animals, commonly referred to as bushmeat, represents the main source of protein for local people in the region and plays an important role in terms of dietary diversity and health. However, the increase of bushmeat consumption in towns and more efficient hunting practices have pushed the harvest of wild animals to unsustainable levels, generating a “bushmeat crisis”. The growing demand for bushmeat has created strong pressures and a lure of profit pushing the hunters of southern Cameroon to sell (illegally) their harvest. A dynamic that might affect both local diets and the modalities of relations between humans and animals. Therefore, this paper aims to describe the importance of wild meat for the Baka, an ethnolinguistic group of Southeastern Cameroun, traditionally hunter-gatherers. It analyses the place of the animal in the Baka daily life through its contribution in dietary, symbolic and economic terms. The paper combines a qualitative ethnography with individual-level data on food diversity intake and meat selling, and describes different aspects related to meat sharing and consumption.","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"22 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126922379","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Claudine Friedberg (1933-2018)","authors":"S. Bahuchet","doi":"10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.3798","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/ETHNOECOLOGIE.3798","url":null,"abstract":"Nee le 16 mai 1933, Claudine Friedberg s’est eteinte le 27 juillet 2018. Avec elle disparait une personnalite majeure de l’histoire de nos sciences qui explorent les relations entre les societes humaines et la nature. Pour rendre compte a la fois des apports decisifs que Claudine Friedberg a fourni a nos disciplines, et de l’itineraire fascinant d’une personnalite riche au fort temperament (auxquels nous sommes nombreux a avoir ete confrontes, car elle ne mâchait pas ses mots !), je distingu...","PeriodicalId":424145,"journal":{"name":"Revue d’ethnoécologie","volume":"1927 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128015884","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}