{"title":"Materials biography as a tool for designers’ exploration of bio-based and bio-fabricated materials for the sustainable fashion industry","authors":"V. Rognoli, B. Petreca, Barbara Pollini, C. Saito","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2124740","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2124740","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The fashion industry is highly responsible for critical environmental problems and the sector is increasingly aware of the urgent need to embark on a sustainable transition. Materials, primarily textiles, are particularly problematic for the sector’s unsustainability, despite the intensive research into alternative solutions that is currently underway. This article presents a comprehensive analysis of these socio-environmental challenges and describes how governments, industry, and designers are seeking to address the situation. Furthermore, it identifies a panorama of alternative bio-based and bio-fabricated materials that could facilitate the transition toward more sustainable fashion. We present a selection of 24 case studies of newly developed bio-based and bio-fabricated materials and group them by their origin. Analysis of the cases led to the delineation of five “materials biography categories” to help understand the prominent narratives and to communicate their characteristics and fundamental attributes. This taxonomy also serves to support concepts for a circular economy by helping to build a sort of “material passport” or “product biography,” two concepts underpinning the outcome of this study, and emphasizes the need for tools to further the communication and traceability of these emergent materials. We propose “materials biography,” an overarching idea that catalogues essential dimensions and offer it to designers, companies, and final users to enhance their perception and awareness of such novel materials.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"14 1","pages":"749 - 772"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87940259","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Exploring the nature of digital transformation in the fashion industry: opportunities for supply chains, business models, and sustainability-oriented innovations","authors":"D. Casciani, Olga Chkanikova, Rudrajeet Pal","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2125640","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2125640","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article provides a comprehensive overview of the digital transformation of the fashion industry and describes the opportunities and influences on supply chains, business models, and sustainability-oriented innovations that it offers. Desk research was performed to review emerging cases of companies that engage actively in using 3-dimensional virtual and digital (3DVD) technologies, such as 3D modeling, virtual and augmented reality (VR and AR), 2- and 3-dimensional (2D/3D) scanning, and digital twinning (DT). The analysis shows how the adoption of digital technologies provides opportunities to dematerialize the traditional fashion supply-chain model of garment production and distribution and maps the innovative shifts occurring in the fashion industry’s processes, products, and services. The adoption of 3DVD technologies by fashion companies unleashes new opportunities with respect to innovation in products/services and optimization of operational processes to streamline activities, shorten the lead time for designing, prototyping, manufacturing, marketing and retailing, and reorganizing the working phases. These capabilities also drive multicentred business-model innovations and thus affect value creation and delivery and capture changes. In addition, the analysis shows that digital transformation affects the four dimensions of sustainability that are interconnected intrinsically across supply-chain processes. Cultural sustainability is paramount, as fashion is a complex cultural system that is able to create products/services that influence the environment, economy, and society. In particular, 3DVD technologies promote cultural transformation of design processes to achieve a remix of skills and open knowledge, a behavioral shift from the consumer perspective in terms of diversity and self-expression, and a change in the organizational culture of companies that drive the digital transformation.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"229 1","pages":"773 - 795"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74720572","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Satu Lähteenoja, S. Hyysalo, J. Lukkarinen, T. Marttila, H. Saarikoski, M. Faehnle, L. Peltonen
{"title":"What does it take to study learning in transitions? A case of citizen energy in Finland","authors":"Satu Lähteenoja, S. Hyysalo, J. Lukkarinen, T. Marttila, H. Saarikoski, M. Faehnle, L. Peltonen","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2109316","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2109316","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Learning is commonly presented as one of the key premises of transitions governance. Empirical literature on learning in a sustainability transition context often remains on a generic level, without an in-depth analysis of what is learned and by whom. In this article, we address the study of learning in transition-related multi-party processes. We analyze a transition arena specifically designed to support the participants’ learning and the possibilities to study it. Its focus was on urban citizen energy, increasing renewable energy production via solar panels, heat pumps, and other on-site solutions in detached apartment buildings. We investigate the process through the learning levels (learning loops) framework within which we were able to examine if and what kind of learning can be inferred to have happened and show what kind of data and analysis such inferences minimally require. Our results demonstrate that all participants reported learning from the arena process. This learning was predominantly first-order learning within participants’ already pro-transition orientation. Half of the participants also reported some second-order learning, changing one’s interpretative framing about citizen energy. Overall, the multi-party envisioning process supported participants’ ongoing transformation efforts more than it resulted in transformative learning. Our results provide a basis for further development of a learning-sensitive approach enabling identification and consideration of methodological challenges involved in inferring learning in transitions research.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"1 1","pages":"651 - 664"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82334540","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Franck Cochoy, Cédric Calvignac, Gérald Gaglio, Morgan M. Meyer
{"title":"Mask self-production during the early stages of the COVID-19 pandemic: lessons from a flash practice","authors":"Franck Cochoy, Cédric Calvignac, Gérald Gaglio, Morgan M. Meyer","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2107295","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2107295","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article examines the self-production of washable and reusable sanitary masks during the early stages of the COVID-19 pandemic by focusing on the varied concerns, skills, and material resources that people mobilized. Based on hundreds of testimonials gathered at three key moments of the pandemic in France, we describe mask-self production as a “flash practice.” The immediate life-threatening context put the focus on basic and short-term concerns at the expense of other aspects (such as care for the environment, which played a surprisingly inconsequential role). Nonetheless, this household-based practice quickly evolved into a more collective undertaking with masks being self-produced together by sharing patterns and standards and by donating masks to others. We also show that the practice vanished very fast, as commercial masks became available again. Because flash practices disappear and can quickly fall into oblivion, we hold that researchers need to document and theorize them carefully, for flash practices raise important questions about the temporality, sustainability, and routinization of concerned practices.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"1 1","pages":"616 - 629"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80147173","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Sustainable consumption and the well-being dividend: Insights from the zero-waste movement in Chinese cities","authors":"Ma Zhan","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2111925","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2111925","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Achieving deep cuts in the carbon footprints of everyday consumption is an indispensable component of climate actions globally, not least in the wealthier nations. Can sustainable consumption—and especially reduced consumption—enhance human well-being as stipulated by theories of the “well-being dividend” as well as contribute to environmental improvements? This article presents an empirical study of the well-being dividend among communities of “zero waste” in Chinese cities. Using 45 in-depth interviews and virtual ethnography of zero-waste practitioners, I explore how sustainable consumption could satisfy multiple human needs and enhance individual and collective well-being. This research highlights the significance of lifestyle communities in processes of needs fulfillment and points to how contemporary societies could enable sustainable needs fulfillment by giving special protections to synergic need satisfiers—starting by allowing green communities to flourish and thrive. Further, through the concept of “teleoaffective regimes,” this article brings to light how concerns over well-being give rise to shared ends, goals, and emotions within communities, hinting at the importance of engaging with people’s core pursuit of well-being in sustainability transformations. Finally, the vast majority of studies on sustainable well-being have focused on Western countries. By contrast, this work provides insights into this topic from China and raises critical questions about the dynamics between growth, consumption, and well-being in developing nations. It also calls for further exploration of more sustainable models of “development” that center on delivering well-being to all within planetary boundaries.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"80 1","pages":"731 - 748"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83962716","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Environmental degradation, energy use, and globalization in Ghana: New empirical evidence from regime switching and neural network autoregression models","authors":"Bright Tetteh, Samuel Tawiah Baidoo","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2110680","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2110680","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study investigates the nexus between environmental degradation, energy use, and globalization using Markov-switching (MS) models which previous studies on Ghana have not considered. We utilize this method because of its ability to detect possible non-linear relationships. The Neural Network Autoregression (NNAR [p, k]) model is also employed to predict carbon-dioxide (CO2) emissions for the country over the next decade. In doing so, secondary time-series data on CO2 releases, per capita gross domestic product (GDP), energy use, and KOF (Konjunkturforschungsstelle) globalization indexes spanning the period 1971–2016 are employed. The results from all three MS estimations show no support for the existence of the Environmental Kuznets Curve (EKC) in Ghana. The results further demonstrate that energy use and an overall globalization index result in more CO2 emissions causing deterioration of the environment. Economic globalization is also revealed to harm the environment whereas social and political globalization have different effects in different regimes. The forecast results from the NNAR (14, 8) estimation also indicate that Ghana will have an upward trajectory of CO2 discharge for the next decade. The implication of the findings is that there is an urgent need for strengthening and/or revising environmental policies in the country with greater focus on mitigation strategies in line with the Paris Agreement and Kyoto Protocol. These measures are likely to curb CO2 emissions as the economy expands. Recommendations and areas for further research to improve the environmental quality in Ghana are also provided for policy consideration.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"111 1","pages":"679 - 695"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74502078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Management of nontraditional security for Vietnam’s sustainable development: an integrated approach","authors":"P. Hoang, H. Nguyen, K. Nguyen, T. A. Hoang","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2111066","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2111066","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In recent years, nontraditional security (NTS) studies have been the focus of growing interest in the security literature. However, this work only focuses on conceptualization and associated risks and makes only limited connections between nontraditional security and sustainability. Furthermore, the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) have been threatened by NTS concerns such as the COVID-19 pandemic. The aim of this article is to contribute to the current debate about NTS and to formulate an integrated approach with sustainable development. We devote attention to sustainability and security studies to understand the challenges and opportunities for achieving sustainable outcomes. To highlight the role of the management of NTS in achieving the SDGs, we review the literature and analyze the main threats of NTS in Vietnam. This article shows that sustainability studies should not be separated from nontraditional issues. By analyzing case studies of NTS threats in Vietnam, we find that the economic, social, and environmental pillars of Vietnam’s sustainable development are threatened despite the country’s great success in economic growth in recent decades. We conclude by noting that the lack of integrated linkages between NTS and sustainability creates obstacles for Vietnam’s sustainable development and nontraditional sources of insecurity pose a serious threat to the development prospects of the country. Therefore, in the context of an integrated approach, countries should incorporate certain aspects of the human-security agenda as nontraditional matters into their national development policies.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"4 1","pages":"696 - 709"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75052285","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Natapol Thongplew, Jariyaporn Onwong, Ratchawut Kotlakome, N. Suttipanta
{"title":"Approaching circular economy in an emerging economy: a solid-waste reutilization initiative in a small fresh market in Thailand","authors":"Natapol Thongplew, Jariyaporn Onwong, Ratchawut Kotlakome, N. Suttipanta","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2110677","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2110677","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Fresh markets play crucial roles in everyday life in emerging economies such as Thailand. Operated by local governments or small companies, these facilities are regarded as less equipped actors for utilizing resources and handling environmental problems, including solid waste. Therefore, the operations of fresh markets are considered as a linear business model where materials and wastes are not efficiently utilized in the economic system. Taking the case of the Don Klang Market, Thailand, this research investigated how a strategic environmentally motivated corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiative on solid waste can transform a linear flow of solid waste for realizing circular economy (CE). Through a society-wide social return on investment analysis, the results reveal that the strategic environmental CSR on solid waste creates impacts toward CE benefiting the company and stakeholders. Moreover, the study reveals that assistance is essential for small companies to take up a role in promoting CE. This research contributes to the improvement of solid-waste management and sheds some light on CE realization through CSR in the context of emerging economies.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"92 1","pages":"665 - 678"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84531650","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Homelife in a Norwegian forest: a rural approach to the sustainable transition","authors":"R. Woods, T. Berker","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2108254","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2108254","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The introduction of technical solutions and the phasing out of unsustainable technologies in Elverum, a small town in the middle of the Norwegian forest, is the starting point for this discussion about homelife and why it can be resistant to change. Sustainable ambitions, goals, and solutions are inspired by the challenges faced by urban neighborhoods, but rural communities are also dealing with the sustainable transition and require opportunities for change that are relevant within their particular context. This article takes an emic insider view of how innovative, and potentially more sustainable technology, affects homelife by considering four main themes: choosing where to live; relationships with cars; leisure activities; and how Ydalir—a zero-emission neighborhood being planned in Elverum—is understood within this context. Rather than smoothing over variations in needs and preferences inside and outside urban and rural contexts, engaging with differences helps to avoid misunderstandings and disappointments. The goal is to encourage a co-production of meaning when approaching the challenge of achieving goals for sustainable futures. Furthermore, associations between homelife and social sustainability offer a site where the sustainable practice is strong. Many rural communities already possess qualities, such as equity, social engagement, inclusion, social interaction, safety, and security. We propose that starting with social sustainability, rather than technical innovation, has the potential to encourage sustainable practices in rural communities, thereby increasing the appropriation and domestication of sustainable ambitions outside of urban contexts.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"18 1","pages":"636 - 650"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79087941","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Reflections on Herman Daly’s Economics for a Full World: His Life and Ideas","authors":"A. Hayden","doi":"10.1080/15487733.2022.2108251","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2108251","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Herman Daly’s Economics for a Full World, by Peter Victor, provides a comprehensive overview of Daly’s thought and the life experiences that shaped it. Daly has played a key role in advancing the critique of economic growth, helping launch the field of ecological economics, and creating a foundation for many variations of post-growth thinking. This commentary examines some of Daly’s main contributions that have included elaborating the idea that growth can be uneconomic, outlining core principles of a steady-state economy, questioning the potential to decouple economic growth from environmental impacts, advancing the project of moving beyond gross domestic product (GDP) to measure economic performance, and emphasizing the importance of separately addressing the economy’s optimal scale, just distribution, and efficient allocation. Also discussed are controversial elements of Daly’s work, including his population and immigration proposals. While mainstream economists have resisted these ideas, the most important criticisms come from people sympathetic with his challenge to the growth paradigm, including criticism of insufficient analysis of how the dynamics of contemporary capitalist economies drive a relentless pursuit of growth. As Victor argues, it is time for a new generation to build on the foundations that Daly constructed. Much work still lies ahead in creating an economy appropriate for a “full world,” including better understanding of how to reduce growth dependency and creating the complementary cultural and political changes needed to overcome opposition.","PeriodicalId":35192,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy","volume":"49 1","pages":"630 - 635"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81590243","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}