材料传记是设计师为可持续时尚产业探索生物基和生物制造材料的工具

IF 3.6 Q2 ENVIRONMENTAL STUDIES
V. Rognoli, B. Petreca, Barbara Pollini, C. Saito
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引用次数: 5

摘要

时尚行业对关键的环境问题负有高度责任,该行业越来越意识到迫切需要走上可持续转型的道路。尽管目前正在对替代解决方案进行深入研究,但材料(主要是纺织品)对该行业的不可持续性来说尤其成问题。本文对这些社会环境挑战进行了全面的分析,并描述了政府、行业和设计师如何寻求解决这种情况。此外,它还确定了可替代生物基和生物制造材料的全景,可以促进向更可持续的时尚过渡。我们提出了24个新开发的生物基和生物制造材料的案例研究,并按其来源进行分组。通过对案例的分析,勾勒出五种“材料传记类别”,有助于理解突出的叙事,并传达其特征和基本属性。这种分类法还有助于通过建立一种“材料护照”或“产品传记”来支持循环经济的概念,这两个概念支撑了本研究的结果,并强调了对工具的需求,以进一步促进这些新兴材料的交流和可追溯性。我们提出了“材料传记”,这是一个总体的想法,将基本维度编目,并提供给设计师,公司和最终用户,以增强他们对这种新型材料的感知和意识。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Materials biography as a tool for designers’ exploration of bio-based and bio-fabricated materials for the sustainable fashion industry
Abstract The fashion industry is highly responsible for critical environmental problems and the sector is increasingly aware of the urgent need to embark on a sustainable transition. Materials, primarily textiles, are particularly problematic for the sector’s unsustainability, despite the intensive research into alternative solutions that is currently underway. This article presents a comprehensive analysis of these socio-environmental challenges and describes how governments, industry, and designers are seeking to address the situation. Furthermore, it identifies a panorama of alternative bio-based and bio-fabricated materials that could facilitate the transition toward more sustainable fashion. We present a selection of 24 case studies of newly developed bio-based and bio-fabricated materials and group them by their origin. Analysis of the cases led to the delineation of five “materials biography categories” to help understand the prominent narratives and to communicate their characteristics and fundamental attributes. This taxonomy also serves to support concepts for a circular economy by helping to build a sort of “material passport” or “product biography,” two concepts underpinning the outcome of this study, and emphasizes the need for tools to further the communication and traceability of these emergent materials. We propose “materials biography,” an overarching idea that catalogues essential dimensions and offer it to designers, companies, and final users to enhance their perception and awareness of such novel materials.
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来源期刊
Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy
Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy Social Sciences-Geography, Planning and Development
CiteScore
12.00
自引率
0.00%
发文量
54
审稿时长
27 weeks
期刊介绍: Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy is a refereed, open-access journal which recognizes that climate change and other socio-environmental challenges require significant transformation of existing systems of consumption and production. Complex and diverse arrays of societal factors and institutions will in coming decades need to reconfigure agro-food systems, implement renewable energy sources, and reinvent housing, modes of mobility, and lifestyles for the current century and beyond. These innovations will need to be formulated in ways that enhance global equity, reduce unequal access to resources, and enable all people on the planet to lead flourishing lives within biophysical constraints. The journal seeks to advance scientific and political perspectives and to cultivate transdisciplinary discussions involving researchers, policy makers, civic entrepreneurs, and others. The ultimate objective is to encourage the design and deployment of both local experiments and system innovations that contribute to a more sustainable future by empowering individuals and organizations and facilitating processes of social learning.
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