Perspective Magazine最新文献

{"title":"Les \"estampes habillées\": acteurs, pratiques et publics en France aux XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles","authors":"Pascale Cugy, Georgina Letourmy-Bordier, V. Selbach","doi":"10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6320","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6320","url":null,"abstract":"Difficiles a dater et souvent mal repertoriees, les « estampes habillees » constituent un phenomene complexe et peu etudie, relevant tant de pratiques individuelles d’appropriation que d’enrichissements collectifs ou institutionnalises, voues a transformer des œuvres imprimees sur papier a plusieurs milliers d’exemplaires en riches objets de decor, sources d’emerveillement parfois d’un grand luxe et raffinement. Ce court article souhaite faire le point sur ces pratiques et les pistes a explorer, en evoquant tant les images de devotion que les images profanes et les accessoires ainsi ornes de fragments textiles, a partir d’exemples essentiellement produits en France aux xviie et xviiie siecles.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115073045","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"L’art d’entremêler : une problématique du temps. Une discussion entre Marie-Hélène Dali-Bersani, Pierre Frey et Sophie Mallebranche, menée par Marc Bayard","authors":"M. Bayard, Marie-Hélène Dali-Bersani, Pierre Frey, Sophie Mallebranche","doi":"10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6292","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6292","url":null,"abstract":"When markets were opened up by globalization, the more traditional sectors of the European economy, such as textiles, were plunged deep into crisis. Entire regions saw their industries and skills disappear, and with them a social fabric that was in some cases centuries old.However, the last few years have brought a resurrection of traditional skills and a new expansion of industrial and artisanal manufacturing. This upturn is clearly apparent in garment production, interior decoration, architecture and the transport industry (on land, air and sea). So old production tools and skills that might have seemed a burden just a few decades ago now increasingly appear as the drivers of a revival.The opportunity this represents has been only recently understood and places the various actors in a relationship to time and heritage that goes beyond simple issues of production costs. The contributions of three very different individuals engaged in contemporary textile creation in the field of the decorative arts enable us to demonstrate here that heritage is key to the creative process. Marie-Helene Dali-Bersani, Production Director of the Mobilier national (Manufactures nationales des Gobelins, de Beauvais, de Savonnerie et des dentelles du Puy et d’Alencon) clearly shows how the tradition of weaving, a process unchanged since the establishment of the Garde-Meuble in the 17th century, can serve contemporary artists. Sophie Mallebranche uses period production tools to create new textures in woven metal. Meanwhile Pierre Frey, Communications Director at Maison Pierre Frey and grandson of the founder, explains that designers adapt more effectively to changing fashions in decorative fabrics when they can draw on the heritage of the firm. So heritage is about far more than simply managing the legacy of the past; it has become the driver of modernity and renewal.In their relationship to time (in terms of both manufacture and heritage) textiles are no longer regarded solely as material to cover or dress an object. Their traditional or innovative esthetic characteristics give them greater legitimacy. They are not simply industrial products, but can be elements in an art of living or components of social distinction. This development notably occurs through a new importance given to their historic dimension, known as “storytelling” in marketing circles, in which a particular product is intertwined with history. So it is that time and history seamlessly combine and work together in the service of contemporary design.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125804374","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"When Modernity and Nationalism Intersect: Textiles for Dress in Republican China","authors":"Mei Mei Rado","doi":"10.4000/perspective.6374","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/perspective.6374","url":null,"abstract":"This essay examines the multivalent political and cultural meanings embedded in the production, design, materiality, and representations of clothing textiles in the Republic of China (1912-1949). Undergoing industrialization and design reform, Republican textiles were an important marker of Chinese modernity and played a prominent role in fashioning new Chinese appearances. At a time when China was going through intense national crises, ideas and discourses on Republican textiles crystalized the inherent paradox between China’s endeavor for modernization in the Western mode and resistance to foreign imperialism.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"34 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128930680","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Entretien avec Jean-Paul Leclercq par Rémi Labrusse","authors":"J. Leclercq, R. Labrusse","doi":"10.4000/perspective.6303","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/perspective.6303","url":null,"abstract":"Remi Labrusse. Quel est votre itineraire de chercheur ? Comment vous-a-t-il conduit vers le textile ? Jean-Paul Leclercq. De 1994 a 2006 j’ai ete conservateur des collections anciennes de mode et de textile aux Arts decoratifs, a Paris, et j’en ai repris l’enrichissement. Mettant en œuvre la concertation entre musees que je pronais, j’ai constitue le dossier qui a permis au musee des Tissus de Lyon d’acquerir les cent quatre-vingt-dix Grands livres de fabrique de la maison lyonnaise Bianchini...","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"32 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132631665","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Une robe de femme d’origine préhispanique dans l’extrême Nord des Andes du Pérou : l’anaco","authors":"F. Cousin, A. Hocquenghem","doi":"10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6388","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6388","url":null,"abstract":"La robe de femme collectee dans les annees 1980 par Anne Marie Hocquenghem au nord du Perou dans le departement de Piura, province andine de Huancabamba, constitue une survivance exceptionnelle d’un vetement prehispanique. L’article decrit son tissage, son montage et son assemblage. Il s’agit ensuite de la comparer aux pieces archeologiques et aux descriptions des robes des Indiennes de la conquete espagnole a nos jours, pour proposer des hypotheses sur les origines ethniques de cette piece vestimentaire.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114384927","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Le textile derrière la grille : une abstraction impure ?","authors":"Lucile Encrevé","doi":"10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6440","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6440","url":null,"abstract":"Rapprocher la grille peinte et dessinee du textile (structure, matiere et motifs) permet de comprendre cet outil de predilection de l’abstraction, du debut du xxe siecle a aujourd’hui, comme l’image d’une forme originelle, celle produite des le neolithique par le tissage, point de depart de tout art pour Gottfried Semper. Dans cette forme premiere, apparemment detachee du reel (pure visibilite), se revele paradoxalement, a travers le lien au textile, la presence d’un corps (impure tactilite) – corps qui fait l’œuvre, reprenant un geste ancestral, artisanal et souvent feminin (maternel), corps de l’œuvre (sa materialite), corps qui pourrait s’y inscrire (la grille comme espace de transfert, d’apparition, d’evocation et d’incarnation, mais aussi comme interdit). Ce dialogue avec le textile invite ainsi a une nouvelle lecture de la grille revelant, abstraite et impure, sa dimension memorielle.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"1031 ","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"120860373","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fabrications: race, genre et travail du textile","authors":"Julia Bryan-Wilson","doi":"10.4000/perspective.6447","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/perspective.6447","url":null,"abstract":"Peut-on dire que nous sommes tous des experts en textiles, et que signifierait pareille declaration ? L’article examine plusieurs œuvres-clefs realisees dans les annees 1970 par des artistes americaines de couleur qui representent ou utilisent des pieces de tissu afin de mettre en evidence la place centrale qu’occupent les textiles dans les questions de race, de genre et de travail. A travers un souvenir personnel – la rencontre avec The Dinner Party de Judy Chicago – l’auteur plaide en faveur de l’etude des textiles par le biais d’une methodologie intime qui s’ancre dans une politique de la sensation.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"69 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121306810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Les « teintures de l’Inde » : les textiles sud-asiatiques dans la Bible","authors":"Blake Smith","doi":"10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6315","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6315","url":null,"abstract":"Les tissus aux couleurs vives importes d’Asie du Sud, produit phare des echanges commerciaux entre l’Empire romain et les pays lointains, deviennent rares en Europe a la fin de l’Antiquite. Ils restent pourtant tres presents dans la pensee europeenne, grâce en grande partie a saint Jerome (347-420) qui, dans sa traduction latine du Livre de Job, insere une reference erronee aux « teintures de l’Inde » Le passage est glose par divers grands penseurs, notamment par Gregoire le Grand (540-604), et inspire differents changements de la politique de l’Eglise. Retracant les contextes romain, puis medieval, du lapsus de Jerome, l’article montre que, malgre l’interruption des echanges entre l’Inde et l’Europe, les textiles sud-asiatiques continuent a occuper une place significative dans la culture europeenne.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"42 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126031035","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"L’ordre et le chaos : le lit comme espace pictural et matériel textile","authors":"Anika Reineke, Anne Röhl","doi":"10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6352","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/PERSPECTIVE.6352","url":null,"abstract":"L’article examine le lit en tant qu’objet textile et en tant qu’espace pictural dans la periode allant du xviiie au xxe siecle. Contrairement aux vetements, les lits ont jusqu’ici ete delaisses par la recherche en histoire de l’art. Nous abordons les questions touchant a la nature meme du textile, qui oscille entre absence de forme et ordonnancement regulier. En commencant par le lit vide et defait, qui devient un sujet de representation dans la premiere moitie du xixe siecle (Adolph Menzel, Eugene Delacroix, Joseph Mallord William Turner), nous retracons les liens entre absence de forme et modernite, et analysons les diverses permutations entre les modes textiles de l’ordre et du chaos (Jean-Honore Fragonard, Lit a la Polonaise, Adolf Loos, Tracey Emin). La conclusion propose un rapprochement entre les draps froisses, l’abstraction et l’image postmoderne (Robert Rauschenberg, Sonia Delaunay).","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"263 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116549564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mise en œuvre d’une approche globale des textiles anciens au Centre de recherche sur les textiles de Copenhague","authors":"E. A. Strand, Ulla Mannering, M. Nosch","doi":"10.4000/perspective.6305","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/perspective.6305","url":null,"abstract":"La recherche scandinave sur les textiles, qui s’appuie sur les traditions de l’archeologie experimentale, a beneficie de l’excellent etat de conservation des textiles anciens. L’article evoque tout d’abord les origines de la discipline au xixe siecle et decrit son evolution. Les disciplines concernees par les recherches actuelles sont ensuite etudiees sous l’angle des nouvelles methodologies, des sources et de la collaboration entre chercheurs, ce qui permet de discuter les fondements theoriques de l’investigation. Le Centre de recherche sur les textiles (CTR) a developpe des traditions et des reseaux de recherche etablis en apportant ses propres innovations. Il a notamment contribue a consolider le champ d’etudes en encourageant l’interdisciplinarite et les nouvelles methodes d’enseignement et de recherche. Les etudes sur les textiles s’ancrent desormais dans diverses disciplines qui touchent aux humanities et aux sciences sociales, ainsi qu’aux sciences de la nature. De nouvelles questions sont posees, donnant naissance a de nouvelles reflexions. En conclusion, nous abordons les orientations futures a l’attention des prochaines generations de chercheurs confrontes a de nouveaux cadres theoriques et a l’accumulation croissante de donnees sur les textiles.","PeriodicalId":231148,"journal":{"name":"Perspective Magazine","volume":"25 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2016-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128324025","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}