{"title":"Modification of dehydrated bacterial cellulose with glycerol and succinic acid by using padding method for textile applications","authors":"Hung Ngoc Phan, S. Okubayashi","doi":"10.1108/rjta-10-2023-0111","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-10-2023-0111","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Dehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC modification method using glycerol and succinic acid with catalyst and heat, applied via an industrially scalable padding method to tackle BC’s stiffness drawbacks and enhance BC properties.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Fabric-like BC is generated via mechanical dehydration and then finished by using padding method with glycerol, succinic acid, catalyst and heat. Comprehensive material characterizations, including international testing standards for stiffness, bending properties (cantilever method), tensile properties, moisture vapor transmission rate, moisture content and regain, washing, thermal gravimetric analysis, derivative thermogravimetry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and colorimetric measurement, are used.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The combination of BC/glycerol/succinic acid dramatically enhanced porous structure, elongation (27.40 ± 6.39%), flexibility (flexural rigidity of 21.46 ± 4.01 µN m; bending modulus of 97.45 ± 18.20 MPa) and moisture management (moisture vapor transmission rate of 961.07 ± 86.16 g/m2/24 h; moisture content of 27.43 ± 2.50%; and moisture regain of 37.94 ± 4.73%). This softening process modified the thermal stability of BC. Besides, this study alleviated the drawbacks for washing (five cycles) of BC and glycerol caused by the ineffective affinity between glycerol and cellulose by adding succinic acid with catalyst and heat.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The study yields an effective padding process for BC softening and a unique modified BC to contribute added value to textile and leather industries as a sustainable alternative to existing materials and a premise for future research on BC functionalization by using doable technologies in mass production as padding.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"35 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2024-01-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139449848","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Key terms and topics of muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for older adults using text mining and semantic network analyses","authors":"Wujun Tang, Jiwon Chung, Sumin Koo","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2023-0087","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2023-0087","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to conduct text mining and semantic network analysis of muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for the elderly to understand key terms related to the topic and to identify considerations for developing these types of clothing. Design/methodology/approach The authors searched and identified the key terms wearable robot, muscle-supportive, posture correction and elderly using the text-mining software Textom to extract terms as well as the network analysis software UCINET 6 to process and visualize the relationships among the terms. The authors compared and analyzed the term frequency (TF), the TF-inverse document frequency and the degree centrality of the terms, and the authors visualized and summarized the terms using NetDraw. Findings The key terms and their relationships in 3–4 groups were identified: wearable robot, muscle-supportive, posture correction and elderly. The authors identified the aspects of designing muscle-supportive and posture-corrective wearable robots for the elderly. Originality/value This study contributes to the field of muscle-supportive clothing and wearable robotics by deriving insights into what people are discussing and interested in, and by offering recommendations when developing these types of clothing for the elderly.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"3 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2024-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139124657","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Physical, thermal and mechanical properties of horse tail and mane hairs","authors":"Sümeyye Üstüntağ, N. Paşayev","doi":"10.1108/rjta-08-2023-0080","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2023-0080","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to comparatively reveal the physical, thermal and mechanical properties of horse tail and mane hairs, which have the potential to be used in many areas. Design/methodology/approach Physical properties of horsehairs such as diameter, density, moisture and water absorption were measured. Fourier transform infrared, field emission scanning electron microscopy and amino acid analyzes were applied to the hairs. Thermal stability of horsehair was investigated by thermogravimetric analysis and differential scanning calorimetry analysis. In addition, breaking strength and elongation values of mane and tail hairs were measured. Findings As a result of morphological analysis of horsehair, it was observed that there are usually gaps in the internal structure of horsehair, but the size and continuity of these gaps vary. It has been determined that there is a significant difference between the tenacity values of tail and mane hairs as well as geometric characteristics. In addition, amino acid analysis has shown that the amino acid contents of horse tail and mane hairs are similar and not much different from sheep’s wool. Originality/value Horsehair has been used for various purposes such as clothing, accessories, brushes, upholstery and reinforcement material. To use horsehair in accordance with its application area and performance characteristics, it is necessary to know its physical, thermal and mechanical properties. It is considerable to reveal the similar and different aspects of tail and mane hairs to determine whether they are alternatives to each other. Therefore, revealing the characteristics of tail and mane hairs comparatively constitutes the originality of this study.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"70 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-12-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139157206","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
P. Behera, K. N, Priyodip Paul, Sanjukta Aravind, Balaji S.
{"title":"Enzymatic easing of adhesion in honeydew-contaminated cotton for textile applications","authors":"P. Behera, K. N, Priyodip Paul, Sanjukta Aravind, Balaji S.","doi":"10.1108/rjta-06-2023-0064","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-06-2023-0064","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The textile sector struggles with cotton stickiness from honeydew contamination. It hurts agriculture and marketability. This study aims to examine how bacterial enzymes could reduce honeydew-contaminated cotton adherence in textile businesses sustainably.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Enzyme was extracted from bacteria isolated from the fermented bamboo shoots “Lung siej”. The enzyme was tested for α-glucosidase using p-nitrophenyl-α-D-glucopyranoside as a substrate. Design of experiments determined enzyme activity temperature and reaction time. Laboratory-prepared artificial honeydew was added to ginning mill cotton to show honeydew contamination. After enzyme treatment, sticky cotton was tested for microscopic examination, ultraviolet (UV), Benedict’s, Elsner colorimetric, high volume instrument (HVI) and viscosity tests.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The bacterial isolate is characterized as Lysinibacillus sp. as confirmed by 16S rRNA gene sequencing. The enzyme extracted was identified as α-glucosidase. The ideal temperature and reaction time for enzymatic activity were 32 °C and 35 min, respectively, using central composite design. The microscopic examination, UV test, Benedict’s test, Elsner colorimetric test, HVI test and viscosity test showed that bacterial enzyme treatment reduced cotton fiber adherence.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000Although few patents have examined the effect of yeast enzymes, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, a bacterial enzyme is investigated for the first time to reduce the adhesion of honeydew-contaminated cotton.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"90 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-12-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138957874","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Dyeing of some Egyptian cotton varieties using agricultural wastes (peanut outer skin)","authors":"Shereen O. Bahlool, Zeinab M. Kenawy","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0079","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Peanut skins are an agro-waste product with no commercial value. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate peanut skin as a natural dyestuff and to determine if this natural dye could be used in the dyeing of some Egyptian cotton cultivars.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The methodology consists of several steps; dye extraction procedure from peanut skin through aqueous extraction, then dyeing optimized using simultaneous mordanting using alum. Finally, dyed cotton has been subjected to different textile laboratory tests, for example, color measurements and mechanical properties. Color-fastness was determined on Egyptian cotton fabric. The peanut skin as a source of natural dye and the dyed cotton sample were characterized by fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000It was found that the natural dye extracted from peanut skin has an affinity for cotton samples and showed high dyeability with a unique color shade, good color strength and very good fastness.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The novelty of this paper is the extraction of color from the peanut's outer skin which is discarded as waste such as agro-waste of the agricultural process which can be used as a natural dye in the textile industry and applied to dyeing some Egyptian cotton fibers from different genotypes.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"14 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138633030","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Karen Desta Agulei, J. Githaiga, Benson Dulo, Eric Oyondi Nganyi
{"title":"Identification of bioactive compounds from onion (Allium burdickii) bulb using Raman, and FTIR spectroscopy","authors":"Karen Desta Agulei, J. Githaiga, Benson Dulo, Eric Oyondi Nganyi","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0070","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0070","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to identify the bioactive compounds in the Onion (Allium burdickii [A.B]) bulb using Raman and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) spectroscopy. It assessed the extraction conditions of bioactive compounds from A.B. while evaluating the best extraction conditions.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The research opted for an experimental qualitative approach. It examined the extraction conditions of A.B., namely, temperature (°C), time (min) and mass-to-liquor ratio (M:R) using ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometry. Identification of bioactive compounds present in the dye was performed using Raman spectroscopy and the validation of the results was done by FTIR spectroscopy.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The study determined the best extraction conditions (time, temperature, M:R) for A.B bulb. The study confirmed the presence of bioactive compounds.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000The limitation was quantification of bioactive compounds in A.B bulb.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The findings prove that the A.B. bulb can provide a sustainable source of bioactive compounds (functionalized compounds). The study provides suitable extraction conditions for A.B. and further elaborates on the techniques for identifying bioactive compounds in A.B. bulb extracts.\u0000\u0000\u0000Social implications\u0000The study provides A.B. as a source of bioactive compounds and a clean dye for textile coloration.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000To the best of the authors’ knowledge, there is no documented study on the qualitative analysis of bioactive compounds in A.B using Raman and FTIR. Therefore, the study fulfils the identified need to ascertain alternative procedures for the analysis of bioactive compounds.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"4 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138584288","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Characterization of cotton woven compression bandages with different structures","authors":"K. Seddik, M. A. Ali","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0077","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0077","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Nowadays, textiles play a striking role in various medical applications. Compression bandages are the most essential medical fabrics that help treat venous flow and edema. This study aims to investigate the characteristics of different woven compressive bandage structures produced using compact cotton and cotton/lycra.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Four samples were weaved by matt-plain2/2, twill2/2, stripe-stain4 and mock-leno structures. Several properties were tested that related to structural performance. Tensile strength, elastic and sub-bandage pressure are considered the main functional properties. Three different analysis tools were performed: chart-diagram, one-factor ANOVA and radar chart area.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138611682","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Apparel professionals’ perception of sustainability-related technology: a structural equation modeling approach","authors":"Md Arif Iqbal, Jin Su","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0040","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0040","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to examine the effects of the characteristics of apparel professionals on their attitude toward sustainability-related technology in the context of a developing country, Bangladesh. Design/methodology/approach A quantitative approach was used to investigate the apparel professionals’ perception of sustainability-related technology. A survey was conducted, and 204 valid responses were used in data analysis. The structural equation modeling technique was used to analyze the data. Findings The findings demonstrate that apparel professionals’ personal innovativeness positively impacts their knowledge of apparel technology. Knowledge of apparel technology and environmental issues in apparel manufacturing both significantly and positively impact their level of awareness of sustainability-related technology in apparel manufacturing. The findings also suggest that managers’ level of awareness of sustainability-related technology has a significant positive impact on their attitude toward sustainability-related technology. Originality/value Fishbein’s attitude theory was applied to examine how the various characteristics of apparel professionals (i.e. personal innovativeness in technology, knowledge of apparel technology, knowledge of environmental issues of apparel manufacturing) affect their awareness of and attitude toward sustainability-related technology. This study expands our understanding of the causal flow among cognitive variables of apparel professionals, including their innovativeness, knowledge, awareness and attitudes. The findings of the study can be helpful to the apparel industry to improve apparel professionals’ adoption of sustainable technology.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-11-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139241225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effect of technological parameters on the process of copper deposition on chemically and chemical-galvanically nickel-plated fibers","authors":"Aizhan Doshibekova, Indira Jurinskaya, Salikh Tashpulatov, Raushan Zhilisbayeva, Lazzat Sarttarova, Rustam Akbarov, Marzhan Kalmakhanova","doi":"10.1108/rjta-03-2023-0037","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-03-2023-0037","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This paper aims to study the possibility of electroplating copper coatings on chemically and chemical-galvanically nickel-plated acrylic fibers, to be further processed into yarn, fabrics, knitwear and nonwoven materials. Design/methodology/approach Electrically conductive fibers with different copper contents have been obtained, and the effect of electrolyte pH, its composition, current strength at the first and second cathodes, as well as the metallization time on the electrophysical, physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers, has been studied. Findings The studies have shown that with an increase in the copper content, the electrical conductivity, the uniformity of the coating and the uniformity of the electrophysical properties (for chemical-galvanically nickel-plated fiber) increase. In the case of copper plating of chemically nickel-plated fiber, the coefficient of variation in electrical resistance increases with increasing plating time, even though the copper content increases, and the coefficient of variation in copper content and electrical resistance decreases. The physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers differ slightly from the original (subjected to copper plating) and industrial Nitron fibers. With copper plating, the strength of the fiber practically does not decrease, and the elongation decreases somewhat, compared with the mass-produced Nitron fiber. Originality/value The physical and mechanical properties of copper-containing fibers are quite high, which makes it possible to be successfully further processed into yarn, fabrics, knitwear and nonwoven materials.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"455 ","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136018908","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Benjamin Eghan, Emmanuel Abankwah Ofori, George Kwame Fobiri, Alex Osei Afriyie, Richard Acquaye
{"title":"Sustainable traditional natural dyeing practice in Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana","authors":"Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Benjamin Eghan, Emmanuel Abankwah Ofori, George Kwame Fobiri, Alex Osei Afriyie, Richard Acquaye","doi":"10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0071","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-07-2023-0071","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana. The study further highlights the rich cultural heritage of traditional dyeing from these two communities. Craftsmen in West Africa especially Ghana, have sustained the traditional dyeing methods to produce textile products for consumers. Design/methodology/approach In this study, two sample fabrics were purchased from craftsmen at Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. These fabrics were analysed at the laboratory under standard test methods for their physical, UV, colour appearance and colour fastness properties. Findings Results showed that all the sample fabrics have good UV shielding performance (ratings above 50+). Daboya sample fabrics (dyed with indigo dyes) produced more colour stains than the sample fabrics from Ntonso (dyed with black “kuntunkuni” dyes). The K/S sum value or colour yield reduced after washing but that alternatively increased the calculated ultraviolet protection factor. Practical implications Findings from this study exposed the unique UV performance of dyed traditional fabrics (using natural dyes) from Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. This inspires and enforces the need for craftsmen to improve their production cycle to produce these fabrics in different sizes which provides the necessary UV shielding abilities for consumers in the wake of climate changes. Originality/value This study demonstrated that the natural dyeing process at the two communities produced relatively good UV and colour fastness properties of the sample fabrics. These eco-friendly dyeing practices have survived over time to maintain and promote the concept of sustainability within the textile and fashion industry in Ghana.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"34 2 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135219903","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}