Research journal of textile and apparel最新文献

{"title":"Evaluation of solanum tuberosum potato peel waste for use as an eco-friendly antibacterial finish for cotton fabrics","authors":"Nonsikelelo Sheron Mpofu, Josphat Igadwa Mwasiagi, Cleophas Achisa Mecha, Eric Oyondi Nganyi","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2023-0052","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2023-0052","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to investigate the potential use of potato peel extracts as antibacterial finishes for cotton fabrics against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli . Potato peels are abundant as waste and provide a natural, cheaper and sustainable alternative means of preventing the spread of bacterial infections on cotton fabric. Design/methodology/approach This research included the characterization of potato peel extracts, application of the extract onto cotton fabric and efficacy testing of the treated cotton fabric against bacteria. Phytochemical screening, agar well diffusion antibacterial test, minimum inhibitory concentration and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) tests were used to characterize the extract. Antibacterial efficacy of the treated fabric was determined qualitatively using the disc diffusion assay and quantitatively using the bacteria reduction test. Findings Phytochemical screening confirmed the presence of several secondary metabolites including phenols and flavonoids. Antibacterial tests revealed a positive response in Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus with a zone of inhibition of 6.50 mm and 5.60 mm, respectively. Additional peaks on the FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the presence of potato peel extract on the treated cotton fabric. The treated cotton fabrics showed efficacy against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli up to 20 washes. Originality/value This study introduced the application of potato peel extracts onto cotton fabrics and assessment of the antibacterial properties before and after washing. Results of this study suggest that potato peel extracts can be used as an organic eco-friendly antibacterial finish for cotton fabrics.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"75 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136078426","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development of a textile multilayered device with piezoelectric property using different knitted fabric structures","authors":"Gabriela Maestri, Claudia Merlini, Leonardo Mejia, Fernanda Steffens","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0047","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0047","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This study aims to develop two piezoelectric textile devices formed from different weft knitted fabric rapports (Jersey and Pique) to be applied in the renewable energy’s (RE) area. Design/methodology/approach Two different weft knitted rapports were produced with polyester (PES). The device developed has five layers: a central of poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) nonwoven, involved by two insulating layers of PES knitted fabric; and two conductive external layers, made of polypyrrole-coated PES knitted fabric. The piezoelectric textile devices were joined by sewing the five layers of the device. Findings The FTIR technique confirmed the β -phase in the PVDF nonwoven. This study produced and tested two different textiles devices with piezoelectric behavior, confirmed by the correlated pattern of voltage and tensile stress difference curves, showing the potential application in RE’s and sustainable energies field as smart textiles, such as devices incorporated in garments in the areas of high movement (elbow, knee, foot, fingers and hands, among others), and as an energy generator device Originality/value Textile materials with piezoelectric properties promise to advance RE’s developments due to their high material flexibility and sensitivity to the electrical response. The knitted fabric technology presents flexibility due to its construction process. Comparative studies analyzing the electrical response between knitted and woven fabrics have already been realized. However, there is a gap in terms of research scientific research regarding the comparison of the piezoelectric effect in a material that presents different knitted fabric rapports.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"3 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135804614","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"An analysis of the wool characteristics that determine wool price in South Africa","authors":"Mashford Zenda, Paul Malan, Antonie Geyer","doi":"10.1108/rjta-06-2023-0061","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-06-2023-0061","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose South Africa’s wool industry plays an important role in the agricultural sector. The wool industry provides a valuable source of income for farmers who practice sustainable farming practices. However, wool farmers face numerous challenges, such as wool contamination, dirty wool and producing good-quality wool. Good-quality wool is determined by fibre diameter, clean yield, vegetable matter and staple length. This study aims to address these challenges. Design/methodology/approach A multiple regression analysis of price (R/kg) of White wool and Merino wool was applied to four variables fibre diameter: vegetable matter, clean yield and staple length. The analysis was based on the data for the 2009–2019 data from Cape Wools auctions. Findings Fibre diameter, clean yield and staple length, with exception of vegetable matter, made a statistically significant contribution to the determination of wool price after all other independent variables were controlled for ( p < 0.05). A one-unit (micron) increase in fibre diameter resulted in a 0.404-unit decrease in wool price (R/kg). A one-unit (mm) increase in staple length resulted in a 0.022-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). There was no statistically significant association between vegetable matter and wool price. A one-unit increase in clean yield was associated with a 0.111-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). Research limitations/implications Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool. Practical implications Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool. Social implications In a developing country such as South Africa, this study is important for the following reason. It is understanding the wool characteristics that have the most significance influence on the determination of wool price for Merino wool and White wool might effectively help the wool farmers to adapt their production systems to improve the wool characteristics that determine wool price. Originality/value This study identified a need for a study to be conducted on all wool classes.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"136 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135963460","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Perceptions of the textile industry stakeholders on a multi-slab goods and services tax system in India","authors":"Ashutosh Pandey, Nitin Saxena, Udai Paliwal","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0046","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0046","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this paper is to present the perception of the textile industry stakeholders (manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, consumers and tax professionals) on India’s new goods and services tax (GST) system and find whether the introduction of GST has made doing business easier or not. Design/methodology/approach The researchers used interviews and surveys to capture the perceptions of the textile industry stakeholders at Surat, a major textile hub in India. To econometrically verify the perceptions, the researchers used a logit regression model. Findings The researchers found that the provision of monthly tax filing has increased textile businesses’ dependency on tax professionals, which increased business costs. Also, the GST system has made tax compliance easier and is user-friendly. However, tax refund-related issues are a significant factor that negatively impacts the ease of doing business post-GST. Research limitations/implications The findings of the research shall be helpful for the GST Council of India and policymakers to understand the problems faced by the textile businesses and cater to their problems. Originality/value To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is original as none of the available studies captures the perception of all the textile industry stakeholders, namely, manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, consumers and tax professionals, on the GST system applying econometric techniques to validate the perceptions.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135738517","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The potentials of plant-based colorants for sustainable textile dyeing industry","authors":"Lutamyo Nambela","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0043","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0043","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose The purpose of this study was to review the information on the scientific efforts and achievements in sustainable industrial textile applications of natural colourants. Then the paper suggests the ways of improving the industrial textile applications of plant-based colourants. Design/methodology/approach The literature on the chemistry, sources and extraction of plant-based natural colourants was reviewed. The reviewed information was analysed and synthesised to provide techniques for selecting sustainable extraction methods, possible sustainable textile applications of natural colourants and the challenges which hinder industrial textile applications of plant-based natural colourants. The ways of overcoming the challenges of the industrial textile applications of plant natural colourants were suggested. Lastly, the current situation of industrial application of natural dyes in textiles is presented. Findings Despite the scientific achievement to overcome the challenges of natural colourants for textiles, the global industrial application of natural colourants is still low. Inadequate knowledge of the dyers results into poor performance of the natural dyed textile. The natural dyed textiles are expensive due to the scarcity of raw materials for manufacturing of natural colourants. The selection of suitable extraction, application methods and type of substrate should consider the chemistry of the particular colourant. The society should be educated about the benefits of natural dyed textiles. Cultivation of colourant-bearing plants should be promoted to meet the industrial material demand. Originality/value The paper provides a synthesized collection of information about the source, chemistry, extraction, textile application and challenges of plant-based natural colourants. The reviewed information was analysed and synthesised to provide techniques for selecting sustainable extraction methods, possible sustainable textile applications of natural colourants and the challenges which hinder industrial textile applications of plant-based natural colourants. The ways of overcoming the challenges of the industrial textile applications of plant natural colourants were suggested.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"32 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135132779","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The behaviour of quasi-static puncture resistance property for textile body armor soft panels","authors":"A.I.H. Fayed, Y.A. Abo El Amaim, Ossama R. Abdelsalam, Doaa H. Elgohary","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0048","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0048","url":null,"abstract":"Purpose This paper aims to estimate the performance of protective clothing used to resist puncture (anti-stab property). Design/methodology/approach Seven single-layer (one layer) samples were investigated in this research. The first three samples were already used for the purpose of (anti-stab property), manufactured from Du-Pont product (commercial samples). The rest of the samples were locally designed and manufactured for the same purpose. These seven samples have then been examined after been added in conjunction with WL Kevlar XP (S 104) witness multilayers (eight layers) panel to create which are called multilayer samples. Findings The results of the statistical analysis for one-way ANOVA illustrated significant effect for single layer samples for all properties. While for multi-layer samples, the results showed a significant difference for all variables except displacement. The Tukey post hoc test observed a significant effect for some samples; also, other samples show a non-significant effect between samples. Originality/value It was observed that the locally manufactured samples serve the purpose as (anti-stab samples) compared with the commercial samples. The radar chart shows that for single-layer sample, the fifth sample fulfill the highest radar chart area, whereas for multi-layer samples, the sixth sample achieved the highest radar chart area.","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134990152","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The effects of product-brand fit and brand type on wearable smart masks","authors":"Zhenghao Tong, Soyeong Lee, Hongjoo Woo","doi":"10.1108/rjta-05-2023-0054","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-05-2023-0054","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This study aims to examine the effects of perceived product–brand fit and brand type on consumer evaluations of wearable smart masks’ technological, aesthetic and social attributes and how these affect consumers’ attitudes and intentions to use.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000Through an experimental approach, a total of 240 US consumers’ evaluations of smart masks are compared according to perceived product–brand fit (high vs low) and brand type (electronics vs fashion).\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000The results showed that high perceived product–brand fit increases consumers’ evaluations, while brand type did not significantly affect consumers’ evaluations. Among various attributes, social acceptability had the greatest influence on consumers’ attitude and intention to use. Perceived ease of use, however, positively influenced attitude but negatively influenced intention to use.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000As consumers’ interest in smart health-care wearables increases and air pollution is a serious issue across countries, research on wearable smart masks is being facilitated. Smart masks refer to the digitalized, reusable wearable masks that provide protection and health-care functions. However, their market penetration is still limited. To close this gap between smart mask technology and the market, this study examines how perceived fit and brand type can be used to enhance consumer evaluations.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-09-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46979260","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Host-guest complexes application in textile industry","authors":"Farish Armani Hamidon, F. L. Supian, Mazlina Mat Darus, Yeong Yi Wong, Nur Farah Nadia Abd Karim","doi":"10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0044","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-04-2023-0044","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000The host–guest molecules are often used in various fields and applications. This paper aims to discuss the role of host–guest complexes in the textile industry, focusing on calixarenes as a potential adsorbent for hazardous dyes. The paper begins with an introduction to nanotechnology and its many uses, including textiles.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000The risks associated with the utilisation of dyes and its adverse effects on the environment are then also highlighted. This paper also discusses the structure and characteristics of calixarenes and their potential use as an adsorbent to extract toxic metals from aqueous solutions. The paper also explains the molecular structure of calixarenes, especially the ability of its upper and lower rims, which can be altered to yield derivatives with various selectivities for diverse guest ions and small molecules. In addition, the application of various host–guest molecules in the textiles industry to extract dyes also had been discussed.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000In conclusion, the paper highlights the essential in establishing a systematic review on the significance of selective adsorbents, such as calixarenes, to isolate particular targets from diverse matrices in the textile industry.\u0000\u0000\u0000Research limitations/implications\u0000Only discussing several applications for several host–guest molecules.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The paper concisely describes various host–guest molecule applications in the textile industry, with each molecule being elaborated upon in detail.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-09-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44847167","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Garment sizing system development for Amhara policemen uniforms using data mining techniques","authors":"Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Fasika Hailu, Solomon Tsegaye, Bizuayehu Mamo","doi":"10.1108/rjta-02-2023-0023","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-02-2023-0023","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000Sizing system is a fundamental topic in garment fitting. The purpose of this study was to assess the fit of existing police uniforms (shirt, jacket, overcoat and trousers) and develop a sizing system for upper and lower body uniforms of Amhara policemen in Ethiopia.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000In total, 35 body dimensions of 889 policemen were taken through a manual anthropometric survey following the procedures in ISO 8559:1989 after each subject was interviewed on issues related to garment fit. The anthropometric data were pre-processed, key body dimensions were identified by principal components analysis and body types were clustered by the agglomerative hierarchical clustering algorithm and verified by the XGBoost classifier in a Python programming environment. The developed size charts were validated statistically using aggregate loss and accommodation rate.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000About 44% of the subjects encountered fit problems every time they own new readymade uniforms. Lengths and side seams of shirts, and lengths and waist girths of trousers are the most frequently altered garment sites. Analysis of the anthropometric measurements resulted in 13 and 15 sizes for the upper and lower bodies, respectively. Moreover, the comparison of the developed upper garment size chart with the existing size chart for a shirt showed a considerable difference. This indicates that inappropriate size charts create fit problems.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000The study considers the analysis of fit problems and sizing system development in a less researched country. Moreover, the proposed data mining procedure and its application for size chart development is unique and workable.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-08-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47231315","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Post-COVID assessment of small business weavers in an Indian handloom industry: identifying and prioritizing key challenges","authors":"M. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj, Vinaytosh Mishra","doi":"10.1108/rjta-03-2023-0028","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/rjta-03-2023-0028","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000Purpose\u0000This paper aims to identify and analyze the challenges for the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic by considering their impact on different sections of the weavers and subsequently suggest the best possible solution for the same.\u0000\u0000\u0000Design/methodology/approach\u0000A combined approach of expert opinion and in-depth literature reviews are used to identify the challenges, and a multicriteria decision-making tool is used to rank the challenges for the type of weaver.\u0000\u0000\u0000Findings\u0000This research provides an elaborated view of the problems faced by the handloom industry after the COVID pandemic and suggests that the success of the handloom business is subjected to the eradication of a wide number of challenges according to the type of weaver.\u0000\u0000\u0000Practical implications\u0000The findings of this research will help the policymakers to make and align their policies and strategies for the upliftment of the Varanasi handloom industry efficiently and effectively.\u0000\u0000\u0000Originality/value\u0000To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first kind of study that focuses on identifying and prioritizing the barriers affecting the success of the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic. Furthermore, the uniqueness of this research lies in its ability to study all three independent sections of the handloom industry, having different capabilities and limitations.\u0000","PeriodicalId":21107,"journal":{"name":"Research journal of textile and apparel","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.5,"publicationDate":"2023-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42283434","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}