{"title":"Influence of the Competitive Level and Weight Class on Technical Performance and Physiological and Psychophysiological Responses during Simulated Mixed Martial Arts Fights: A Preliminary Study.","authors":"Orlando Folhes, Víctor Machado Reis, Diogo Luís Marques, Henrique Pereira Neiva, Mário Cardoso Marques","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159453","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159453","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>This study aimed to analyze the influence of the competitive level and weight class on technical performance and physiological and psychophysiological responses during simulated MMA fights. Twenty MMA male athletes were divided into four groups: heavyweight elite (HWE; n = 6), lightweight elite (LWE; n = 3), heavyweight professional (HWP; n = 4), and lightweight professional (LWP; n = 7). All athletes performed four simulated fights of three 5-min rounds with a 1-min rest interval. Each fight was recorded using a video camera to analyze offensive and defensive actions. Moreover, the following measures were made: heart rate (before and after each round), blood lactate concentration (before and after the fight), readiness state (before each round), and the rate of perceived exertion (RPE) (after each round). The main findings were: i) LWE athletes applied more offensive touches than LWP athletes; ii) HWP athletes presented higher heart rate values than LWP athletes after the first round; however, LWP athletes presented greater heart rate changes than HWP athletes from the first to the second round; iii) no differences existed between groups in blood lactate concentration and readiness state; and iv) HWP and LWP athletes presented higher RPE values than LWE athletes in the first and third rounds; however, LWE athletes presented greater RPE changes than HWE, HWP, and LWP athletes from the first to the second and third rounds. This study shows that LWE athletes apply more offensive touches than LWP athletes during simulated MMA fights. Moreover, lightweight athletes tend to increase their physiological demand as the combat evolves, which is also reflected in their RPE.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"205-215"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170536/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9822832","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
José M Oliva-Lozano, Juan Cuenca-López, Javier Suárez, Paulino Granero-Gil, José M Muyor
{"title":"When and How Do Soccer Players From a Semi-Professional Club Sprint in Match Play?","authors":"José M Oliva-Lozano, Juan Cuenca-López, Javier Suárez, Paulino Granero-Gil, José M Muyor","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159964","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159964","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The aims of this study were to investigate the periods in which sprints occurred during official matches and analyze these sprints considering the effect of the playing position and different contextual variables. Electronic performance and tracking systems were used for the analysis of all sprints performed by players. Matches were recorded by video and synchronized with performance tracking data. A total of 252 sprints were analyzed. The greatest frequency of sprints was observed in the period 1 (0'-15'), followed by period 2 (15'-30') and period 6 (75'-90'), regardless of the playing position (χ<sup>2</sup> = 31.35; p = 0.051). Most sprints were non-linear (non-linear sprints: 97.6%; linear sprints: 2.4%) and without ball possession (without ball possession: 95.2%; with ball possession: 4.8%) for all playing positions, but the role of the sprint and the field area in which the sprint occurred were dependent on the position (p < 0.001). Specifically, players covered ~17.55 m per sprint, starting at ~10.34 km/h, reaching ~26.74 km/h, maximally accelerating at ~2.73 m/s<sup>2</sup>, and decelerating at ~3.61 m/s<sup>2</sup>. Overall, the playing position and contextual variables had no significant effect on physical performance variables analyzed during these sprints. Therefore, this study allows performance practitioners to have a better understanding of when and how soccer players sprint in match-play. In this regard, this study presents some training and testing strategies that may be considered to improve performance and decrease injury risk.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"195-204"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170543/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9469076","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
André Rebelo, João R Pereira, Diogo V Martinho, João Valente-Dos-Santos
{"title":"Effects of a Velocity-Based Complex Training Program in Young Female Artistic Roller Skating Athletes.","authors":"André Rebelo, João R Pereira, Diogo V Martinho, João Valente-Dos-Santos","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159654","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159654","url":null,"abstract":"Complex training consists of a near maximal strength effort followed by a biomechanically similar explosive exercise. One of many complex training methods that have been proposed is the French Contrast Method. The aim of this study was to analyze the effects of the French Contrast Method on maximal strength and power of young female artistic roller skating athletes with the help of velocity-based training to prescribe the intervention program. Eighteen female artistic roller skating athletes, divided into an experimental group (EG) and a control group (CG), participated in this study. The EG performed complex training via the French Contrast Method. The CG did not perform any additional training besides their regular roller skating practices. All participants were tested on the 1-RM back squat and hip thrust, the load-velocity profile assessment of both exercises previously stated, the countermovement jump, and the drop jump. A significant increase in mean concentric velocity (MCV) of the hip thrust exercise from 10 to 60% of 1-RM in the EG was observed. Significant differences between groups were observed for the MCV of the hip thrust from 10 to 90% of 1-RM. There were also significant increases in the 1-RM back squat and 1-RM hip thrust over time in the EG. For the vertical jump variables, there were significant differences between groups for both contact time and the reactive strength index with and without an arm swing. The results of this study suggest that a 6-week training intervention with the use of the French Contrast Method can significantly improve maximal strength and power.","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"217-234"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170548/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9839567","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jan Gajewski, Joanna Mazur-Różycka, Michał Górski, Krzysztof Buśko
{"title":"Reference Values of the Forearm Tremor Power Spectra for Youth Athletes.","authors":"Jan Gajewski, Joanna Mazur-Różycka, Michał Górski, Krzysztof Buśko","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159644","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159644","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The aim of the study was to determine reference graphs of power spectral density functions of forearm physiological tremor and to compare their parameters in the male and female population of young athletes from various sports. One hundred fifty-nine (159) female (15.7 ± 2.1 years, 59.8 ± 8.1 kg, 169.1 ± 7.5 cm) and 276 male (16.4 ± 1.9 years 72.7 ± 10.3 kg and 180.9 ± 8.7 cm) youth athletes participated in the study. Forearm tremor was measured accelerometrically in a sitting position. Power spectrum density (PSD) function was calculated for each individual tremor waveform. Because of right skewness of power distribution, the PSD functions were subjected to logarithmic transformation. Average log-powers in low (2-4 Hz) and high (8-14 Hz) frequency ranges and mean frequencies in those ranges were analyzed. Tremor log-powers for male were greater than for female athletes (p < 0.001), while frequencies of spectrum maxima did not differ from each other. Frequencies of spectrum maxima correlated (p < 0.001) with age (r = 0.277 and 0.326 for males and females, respectively). The obtained reference functions may be utilized in order to quantify and assess tremor size and its changes evoked by stress and fatigue, which can be applied for selection and training monitoring in sports, but also in medicine for detection and diagnosis of pathologic tremor in young individuals.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"133-143"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170535/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9469075","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Shahab Alizadeh, Leah Vardy, Garrick N Forman, Davis A Forman, Michael W R Holmes, Duane C Button
{"title":"Sex Difference in Lower-limb Electromyography and Kinematics when Using Resistance Bands during a Barbell Back Squat.","authors":"Shahab Alizadeh, Leah Vardy, Garrick N Forman, Davis A Forman, Michael W R Holmes, Duane C Button","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159585","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159585","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The aim of this study was to compare the muscle activity of the gluteus medius (GMe), gluteus maximus (GMa), biceps femoris (BF), vastus lateralis (VL), vastus medialis (VM) and erector spinae (ES) as well as medial knee displacement (MKD) while using varying stiffness resistance bands (red: 1.68 kg; black: 3.31 kg; gold: 6.44 kg) during a barbell back squat (BBS) among males and females. A total of 23 (females: 11) resistance trained people were recruited for this study. Muscle activity was measured using electromyography, and motion capture cameras tracked lower-limb kinematics and MKD. Three resistance bands were placed at the distal end of the femur while performing a BBS at their 85% repetition maximum (RM). Parametric and non-parametric statistical analyses were conducted with the alpha level of 0.05. The gold resistance band resulted in a smaller knee-width-index value (i.e., greater MKD) compared to other bands (p < 0.01). Males exhibited less MKD compared to females during the BBS for each resistance band (p = 0.04). Males produced greater VL activity when using the black and gold resistance bands during the BBS (p = 0.03). When using a gold resistance band, the GMe muscle activation was higher compared to other resistance bands (p < 0.01). VM muscle activity was reduced when using a gold resistance band compared to no band condition (p < 0.01). BF (p = 0.39) and ES (p = 0.88) muscle activity did not change when using different resistance bands. As a result, females may be at a biomechanical disadvantage when using resistance bands compared to males while performing the BBS hindering them from optimal performance.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"17-29"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170533/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9839565","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Posturographic Standards for Optimal Control of Human Standing Posture.","authors":"Janusz W Błaszczyk, Monika Beck","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159452","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159452","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Static posturography is a simple non-invasive technique commonly used in contemporary labs and clinics to quantify the central nervous system adaptive mechanisms involved in the control of posture and balance. Its diagnostic value, however, is quite limited due to the lack of posturographic standards for the stable posture. To solve this problem, in this research, we aimed to establish reference values for the stable human posture using our novel parameters of static posturography including the sway anteroposterior directional index (DIAP), the mediolateral directional index (DIML), the stability vector amplitude (SVamp), and the stability vector azimuth (SVaz). Towards this end, in a population of young (mean age 22 yrs), healthy able-bodied volunteers (50 males and 50 females), trajectories of postural sway, based upon the center-of-pressure (COP), were assessed. The experiment consisted of ten 60 s trials that were carried out 5 times while subjects were standing quietly on the force plate with eyes open (EO test) and 5 times with eyes closed (EC test). Results showed that in young healthy subjects, regardless of gender, the basic variables of COP remained at the following levels: SVamp = 9.2 ± 1.6 mm/s, SVaz = 0.9 ± 0.1 rad, and directional indices DIAP = 0.7 ± 0.05, DIML = 0.56 ± 0.06. Some of the measures were sensitive to visual input (EC trials), and showed a weak to moderate correlation with anthropometric features. These measures can be recommended as reference values that characterize the most stable erect posture.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"7-15"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170532/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9822831","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Madelin R Siedler, Megan H Lewis, Eric T Trexler, Priscila Lamadrid, Brian J Waddell, Sarah F Bishop, Gillian SanFilippo, Kaitlin Callahan, David Mathas, Gianna F Mastrofini, Menno Henselmans, Fredrik T Vårvik, Bill I Campbell
{"title":"The Effects of Intermittent Diet Breaks during 25% Energy Restriction on Body Composition and Resting Metabolic Rate in Resistance-Trained Females: A Randomized Controlled Trial.","authors":"Madelin R Siedler, Megan H Lewis, Eric T Trexler, Priscila Lamadrid, Brian J Waddell, Sarah F Bishop, Gillian SanFilippo, Kaitlin Callahan, David Mathas, Gianna F Mastrofini, Menno Henselmans, Fredrik T Vårvik, Bill I Campbell","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159960","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159960","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of intermittent versus continuous energy restriction on body composition, resting metabolic rate, and eating behaviors in resistance-trained females. Thirty-eight resistance-trained females (mean ± standard deviation age: 22.3 ± 4.2 years) were randomized to receive either six weeks of a continuous 25% reduction in energy intake (n = 18), or one week of energy balance after every two weeks of 25% energy restriction (eight weeks total; n = 20). Participants were instructed to ingest 1.8 g protein/kilogram bodyweight per day and completed three weekly supervised resistance training sessions throughout the intervention. There were no differences between groups for changes over time in body composition, resting metabolic rate, or seven of the eight measured eating behavior variables (p > 0.05). However, a significant group-by-time interaction for disinhibition (p < 0.01) from the Three-Factor Eating Questionnaire was observed, with values (± standard error) in the continuous group increasing from 4.91 ± 0.73 to 6.17 ± 0.71, while values in the intermittent group decreased from 6.80 ± 0.68 to 6.05 ± 0.68. Thus, diet breaks do not appear to induce improvements in body composition or metabolic rate in comparison with continuous energy restriction over six weeks of dieting, but may be employed for those who desire a short-term break from an energy-restricted diet without fear of fat regain. While diet breaks may reduce the impact of prolonged energy restriction on measures of disinhibition, they also require a longer time period that may be less appealing for some individuals.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"117-132"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170537/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9822834","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Concurrent and Angle-Trajectory Validity and Intra-Trial Reliability of a Novel Multi-View Image-Based Motion Analysis System.","authors":"Namgi Lee, Junghoon Ahn, Wootaek Lim","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159587","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159587","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Sports-related injuries are the most common in the lower extremities among physical regions. To evaluate impaired functional performance in sports training facilities and sports, a marker-less motion analysis system that can measure joint kinematics in bright indoor and outdoor environments is required. The aim of this study was to establish the concurrent and angle-trajectory validity and intra-trial reliability of a novel multi-view image-based motion analysis system with marker-less pose estimation during lower extremity tasks in healthy young men. Ten healthy young men participated voluntarily in this study. The hip and knee joint angles were collected using a multi-view image-based motion analysis system (marker-less) and a Vicon motion capture system (with markers) during the lower extremity tasks. Intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) analyses were used to identify the concurrent and angle-trajectory validity and intra-trial reliability of the multi-view image-based motion analysis system. In the concurrent validity, the correlation analysis revealed that the ICC3, k values on the hip and knee flexions during knee bending in sitting, standing, and squat movements were from 0.747 to 0.936 between the two systems. In particular, the angle-trajectory validity was very high (ICC3, 1 = 0.859-0.998), indicating a high agreement between the two systems. The intra-trial reliability of each system was excellent (ICC3, 1 = 0.773-0.974), reflecting high reproducibility. We suggest that this novel marker-less motion analysis system is highly accurate and reliable for measuring joint kinematics of the lower extremities during the rehabilitation process and monitoring sports performance of athletes in training facilities.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"31-40"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170539/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9822835","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jacek Wąsik, Dariusz Mosler, Dorota Ortenburger, Tomasz Góra, Robert Podstawski
{"title":"Differences in Velocities of Crucial Body Segments while Executing Roundhouse Kicks for Both Sides.","authors":"Jacek Wąsik, Dariusz Mosler, Dorota Ortenburger, Tomasz Góra, Robert Podstawski","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159451","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159451","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Lower limb kinematics of the roundhouse kick is a well-known topic studied by many researchers. However, there is a lack of data about the velocity of the core and upper limbs during the execution of this technique. The aim of this study was to evaluate the differences in velocities of all crucial body segments while executing roundhouse kicks for both sides of the body. Thirteen elite taekwon-do athletes participated in this study. They performed kicks to a table tennis ball three times using each leg. The spatial-temporal data of markers placed on toes, knees, hips, shoulders, elbows, hands, and sternum were captured with the use of the Human Motion Lab equipment composed of 10 infrared cameras NIR Vicon MX-T40. There were statistical differences in the maximal velocity of the sternum and opposite shoulder. There were different correlations between the time of acquiring maximal velocities of specific body segments and the maximal velocity of the toe marker for each kicking side. Higher correlations were observed for the left kick despite the participant's declaration of their preference for the right leg. The obtained results facilitate the conclusion that small non-resistant targets require different motor control depending on the kicking side, despite not revealing significant differences between maximal velocity. While such an indicator could be perceived as a suitable benchmark of an athlete's performance, more detailed analysis seems to be required for a better understanding of martial arts techniques.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"97-105"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170541/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9839569","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ben J Mckellar, Alexandra M Coates, Jeremy N Cohen, Jamie F Burr
{"title":"Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals.","authors":"Ben J Mckellar, Alexandra M Coates, Jeremy N Cohen, Jamie F Burr","doi":"10.5114/jhk/159652","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5114/jhk/159652","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Competitive rock climbing recently made its Olympic debut, but minimal published research exists regarding training and competition strategies. Time management strategies define the structured approach climbers take in bouldering competitions to successfully obtain a \"top\" or a \"zone\" hold. During finals rounds of the International Federation of Sport Climbing bouldering competitions, climbers are allotted 240 s to complete a boulder. Variables influencing a climber's time management strategies include their work-to-rest intervals, and the frequency of their attempts or rests. Video analysis of International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions was used to collect time management strategy data of professional climbers. Fifty-six boulders (28 female and 28 male boulders) over the 2019 International Federation of Sport Climbing season were analyzed. Time management strategies variables were compared between slab/slab-like and non-slab bouldering styles using generalized estimating equations with significance set to p < 0.05. Additionally, we determined trends in success rates for various styles of boulders. There were no differences in the number of attempts taken per boulder between slab/slab-like and non-slab boulders (3.7 ± 2.3 and 3.8 ± 2.4, p = 0.97), but climbers spent more time actively climbing on slab/slab-like (92 ± 36 s) compared to non-slab boulders (65 ± 26 s, p < 0.001). Trends in the success rate suggest climbers who take more than 6 attempts on any boulder style are unsuccessful. The results of this study provide practical information that can be used by coaches and athletes to guide training and competition strategy.</p>","PeriodicalId":16055,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Human Kinetics","volume":"86 ","pages":"165-174"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10170546/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"9469072","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}