Cosmetics最新文献

{"title":"Computational Methods as Part of Scientific Research in Cosmetic Sciences—Are We Using the Opportunity?","authors":"Laura Krumpholz, Sebastian Polak, Barbara Wiśniowska","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030079","url":null,"abstract":"In the field of the cosmetic industry, significant efforts are made to develop methods that are not only cost effective and time effective but are also environmentally friendly and cruelty free. Cosmetic tests using in vivo animal models are currently banned in the European Union. To fulfil regulatory requirements, new approach methodologies (NAMs) are implemented, and thereupon, in silico techniques have constantly acquired significance. This review aimed to show the general picture of the available computational methods and approaches, give some examples of their applications, present capabilities and limitations, and propose the way forward. The general information about in silico modelling and examples of its usage in the context of cosmetics and its legal regulation are presented. The review is divided with a focus on three endpoints of interest: (1) safety assessment, (2) exposure assessment, and (3) formulation characterization. With this comprehensive analysis, we try to answer the question as to whether we are using the opportunity.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140981474","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Contact Dermatitis Due to Hair Care Products: A Comprehensive Review","authors":"M. Cebolla-Verdugo, J. P. Velasco-Amador, F. Navarro-Triviño","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030078","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030078","url":null,"abstract":"Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider patch testing. Not all the products on the market are haptens. It is necessary to know how to patch your own products. When avoidance of the allergen is not possible, new treatments are evaluated to combat allergic contact dermatitis, mainly of the occupational type. In this manuscript, a complete and practical review of the main allergens and contact sources of hair cosmetic origin has been carried out.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140996388","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications","authors":"Mónica Serra, Eduardo J. Gudiña, C. Botelho, J. Teixeira, A. N. Barros","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030076","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030076","url":null,"abstract":"Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, and tailored molecular properties. Beyond its industrial applications, PGA exhibits unique properties that render it an attractive candidate for use in the cosmetic industry. The biocompatibility, water solubility, and film-forming characteristics of PGA make it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This article explores the extensive potential cosmetic applications of PGA, highlighting its multifaceted role in skincare, haircare, and various beauty products. From moisturizing formulations to depigmentating agents and sunscreen products, PGA offers a wide array of benefits. Its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and hair makes it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, conditioners, and hydrating masks. Moreover, PGA’s depigmentating properties contribute to the reduction in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, enhancing the overall complexion. As the demand for sustainable and bio-derived cosmetic ingredients escalates, comprehending the microbial production and cosmetic benefits of PGA becomes crucial for driving innovation in the cosmetic sector.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140998753","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effect of Fermentation and Extraction Techniques on the Physicochemical Composition of Copoazú Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum) as an Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry","authors":"Luisa L. Orduz-Díaz, Kimberly Lozano-Garzón, W. Quintero-Mendoza, R. Díaz, Juliana E C Cardona-Jaramillo, Marcela P. Carrillo, Diana Carolina Guerrero, M. S. Hernández","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030077","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030077","url":null,"abstract":"The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process and the diverse extraction techniques employed. In this study, the composition of this butter processed with and without seed fermentation was analyzed using two extraction techniques: expeller pressing and hydraulic pressing. Parameters such as lipid profile, quality indexes, melting point, and the content of phytosterols and glyceric compounds were compared with a highly sought-after commercial raw material assessed through standardized volumetric and spectroscopic methodologies. The results showed that non-fermentation and cold-pressing conditions preserved the properties of the butter. This analysis is the first step in a standardized process for developing high-quality cosmetic ingredients derived from Copoazú butter.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141001019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effects of Chlorinated Water on Neurite Length of Cultured Dorsal Root Ganglion Neurons and Semaphorin 3A Content of Cultured Epidermal Keratinocytes","authors":"Kazuhisa Maeda, Neneka Okumura, Aoba Ogawa, Hatsumi Takeda","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030075","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030075","url":null,"abstract":"The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation and itching in some people—especially those with sensitive skin or reduced skin barrier function. We investigated the effects of free residual chlorine on cultured dorsal root ganglion neurons and cultured epidermal keratinocytes. First, we measured neurite length in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Next, to evaluate the effects of chlorine on semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) and nerve growth factor (NGF) levels in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to measure NGF in the supernatant and polymerase chain reaction and Western blot to determine Sema3A and NGF levels. Chlorine elongated the neurite length and increased the number of projections in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Although there were no changes in NGF mRNA or protein levels in the supernatant of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of chlorine, Sema3A mRNA and protein levels decreased, and the ratio of Sema3A to NGF was also reduced.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141004141","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Adult Female Acne: Recent Advances in Pathophysiology and Therapeutic Approaches","authors":"Andreea Amuzescu, M. Tampa, C. Matei, S. Georgescu","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030074","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030074","url":null,"abstract":"Adult acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit characterized by the excessive production of abnormal sebum favoring an imbalance of the skin microbiota and the hyperproliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and other virulent microbial strains, leading to an inflammatory environment, innate immunity overactivation, and keratinocyte hyperproliferation in hair follicles pores. Degraded keratinocytes plug the pores, consequently forming microcomedons, which can later evolve to papules, nodules, pustules and scars. Distinct from juvenile acne, in adult female acne (AFA) the symptomatology occurs or persists in postadolescence (after age 25). Although hyperandrogenism or the excessive sensitivity of androgen receptors are the main causes, AFA can be triggered by multiple factors, either including or not including androgen disturbances. The prevalence in adult women is 15–20%. Hyperandrogenism is present in 50% of cases; 70% of hyperandrogenism cases feature polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), a complex endocrine and metabolic condition. Genetic susceptibility occurs in 80% of acne cases, often with familial inheritance. Beyond classical stepwise therapeutic protocols (topical agents, isotretinoin, antibiotics, hormonal therapy with estrogens, progestins, spironolactone), novel approaches include the highly effective topical antiandrogen clascoterone, the management of insulin resistance by diet, exercise, stress avoidance, and adjuvant therapies such as berberine. Vaccines against the pathogenic proinflammatory C. acnes hyaluronidase A are in development.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141013094","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Nicotinamide Riboside Ameliorates Hyperpigmentation on Photo-Irradiated Skin","authors":"Yeon Jae Lee, Seul Gi Jang, Min Jeong Ryu, Seung Hee Choi","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030073","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030073","url":null,"abstract":"Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) is one of the most important and essential components within an organism. Extensive ongoing research is aimed at harnessing its potential in managing diverse diseases by supplying various forms of NAD in its oxidized state, NAD+. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the most common environmental exposure factor, but also carries many risks. UVR affects the epidermis and contributes to sunburn, photo-allergy, DNA damage, and certain cancers, notably melanoma. Research has shown that NAD+ precursors, including nicotinamide riboside (NR), reduce melanogenesis in aged melanocytes. In this study, we used NR to determine whether melanin hyperpigmentation was suppressed after light stimulation. We found that melanogenesis was inhibited when B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone were exposed to specific doses of NR. Additionally, tyrosinase activity (a key step in melanin production) was suppressed. However, there was no difference in the expression level of melanogenic genes. Ultraviolet B light directly stimulated HaCaT cells, inducing the RNA expression of metalloproteinases. Treatment with NR suppressed the corresponding gene expression and reduced cytotoxicity. This study demonstrates the possibility of using NR as a new skin-whitening ingredient due to its inhibitory effect on hyperpigmentation and ability to maintain skin layers affected by UVR.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141012189","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmetic Formulations from Natural Sources: Safety Considerations and Legislative Frameworks in the European Union","authors":"Maame Ekua Manful, Lubna Ahmed, Catherine Barry-Ryan","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030072","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030072","url":null,"abstract":"Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout the supply chain, and substantiating their safety is essential. This review examines the safety and legislative requirements applicable to natural cosmetic ingredients in the European Union (EU). Cosmetic safety requirements include technical data based on the ingredient profile, presence of hazards and the risks associated with the intended conditions of use. The hazard analysis includes screening for microbial contaminants such as aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans; chemical contaminants such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, and mercury; and naturally occurring toxins, such as allergens. The toxicological assessment considers both local effects (such as skin sensitisation, eye/skin irritation, and photo-induced effects) and systemic effects (including acute dermal toxicity, sub-acute and sub-chronic toxicity, mutagenicity and carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and toxicokinetics). The EU legislative requirements prohibit the use of animal-based tests for the toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients, paving the way for alternatives termed as New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). The validation of NAMs is critical for their wider usage, and despite advancements, few have been validated, particularly for systemic toxicity testing. The use of NAMs in evaluating the safety of complex natural cosmetic ingredients is further examined.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141013628","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Artichoke Leaf Extract Effectiveness on the Skin Aging Exposome: Efficacy and Safety Results of a Split-Face Study","authors":"Gloria Roveda, Enza Cestone, Francesca De Gennaro, Andrea Poggi, Violetta Insolia, Vincenzo Zaccaria, Vincenzo Nobile","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030069","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030069","url":null,"abstract":"The skin is a barrier organ subjected to lifelong exposure to internal and external factors influencing both its biological response and appearance. A randomized split-face study was carried out on 22 adult female outdoor workers using an artichoke leaf extract (CynageTM). The product’s efficacy was measured before and after 28 days of use. The following skin parameters were measured: wrinkle depth, skin roughness, and radiance, to assess the product’s effect on the skin appearance; Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP), to assess the total antioxidant capacity; and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) levels, to assess the anti-inflammatory efficacy. These parameters were also integrated by the evaluation of the subjective perception of product efficacy. After 28 days of product use, the skin’s appearance improved as follows: wrinkle depth and skin roughness decreased by 5.2% and 7.0%, respectively, while the skin radiance increased by 19.0%. The total antioxidant capacity of the skin increased by 20.2%. The skin’s TNF-α levels decreased by 8.2%. The product efficacy was also perceived by the subjects participating in the study. The product was well tolerated. Our findings demonstrate the active role of the ingredient in decreasing the skin damage induced by the exposome.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141016835","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Advancing Lip Augmentation: State-of-the-Art 2D and 3D Analysis for Assessing Volume Enhancement and Lip Line Redefinition","authors":"Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Lucia Ricci, Eleonora Vardaro, Teresa Di Serio, Elena Morelli, S. Laneri","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11030070","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030070","url":null,"abstract":"Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume and distinct vermilion borders. Despite the proliferation of lip augmentation techniques, there remains a dearth of comprehensive investigations into their precise effects on the three-dimensional structural integrity of the lips. This research endeavors to address this gap by employing stereophotogrammetry as a quantitative tool to scrutinize lip augmentation outcomes and to appraise the efficacy of lip plumpers. The study methodology involves a comparative analysis of lip dimensions among subjects treated with a commercial lip plumper using multi-spectral imaging for lip dimension assessment, coupled with markerless tracking technology and 3D interpolating surface methodology to analyze lip volume and shape. Additionally, the study evaluated lip youth state, including moisture level, softness, firmness, and tissue density. The demand for lip augmentation procedures is driven by perceived advantages such as quick recovery and minimal risk. Therefore, it is crucial to substantiate their efficacy with robust findings. The investigation suggests that both 3D and 2D stereophotogrammetry techniques are reliable for evaluating lip size before and after augmentation, whether through cosmetic or aesthetic approaches. Overall, the study provides a comprehensive analysis of a lip treatment aimed at enhancing volume and redesigning lip lines. It demonstrates that stereophotogrammetry is effective for assessing 3D lip dimensions and their correlation with internal lip structure. This research could be particularly valuable for evaluating the efficacy and duration of various lip enhancement techniques, including dermal fillers, implants, and topical cosmetic formulations, offering quantitative and reproducible assessments over time.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141015946","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}