Cosmetics最新文献

{"title":"Optimization of Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Formulation for Cosmetic Application Using Design of Experiments, PART II: Physical Characterization and In Vitro Skin Permeation for Sesamol Skin Delivery","authors":"Margot Cassayre, Auriane Oline, C. Orneto, Emmanuel Wafo, Lydia Abou, Alexandre Altié, Magalie Claeys-Bruno, C. Sauzet, Philippe Piccerelle","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040120","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040120","url":null,"abstract":"Our research focuses on evaluating the preliminary stability of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) in order to identify an optimal formulation for studying the skin penetration of SLNs loaded with sesamol, with a view to developing potential cosmetic applications. For this study, SLNs were prepared with varying lipid and surfactant compositions and produced through homogenization and ultrasonication. The particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential (ZP), and encapsulation efficiency (EE) were analyzed for the different formulations. We identified OP2Se as the optimal formulation for skin penetration assessment due to its stable PS, PDI, ZP, and EE over time, with a Turbiscan Stability Index (TSI) below 1 after a month, indicating favorable stability conditions. The in vitro skin permeation study compared sesamol-loaded SLNs with a control sesamol hydrogel, revealing controlled release characteristics ideal for localized skin effects without significant bloodstream penetration, attributed to the SLNs’ 200 nm particle size. Further exploration could enhance skin retention and targeting, potentially extending penetration studies and reducing particle size to improve accumulation in hair follicles. Exploring SLN applications beyond sesamol, such as incorporating mineral filters for suncare, offers promising avenues, underscoring SLNs’ versatility in cosmetic formulations and skincare applications.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141648981","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Regenerative Cosmetics: Skin Tissue Engineering for Anti-Aging, Repair, and Hair Restoration","authors":"Paula Pleguezuelos-Beltrán, Sara Herráiz-Gil, Daniel Martínez-Moreno, Iria Medraño-Fernandez, Carlos León, S. Guerrero-Aspizua","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040121","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040121","url":null,"abstract":"The quest for youthful, healthy skin and full, vibrant hair has long been a driving force in the dermocosmetics field. However, traditional approaches often struggle to address the underlying causes of aging, damage, and hair loss. Regenerative cosmetics powered by skin tissue engineering offer a transformative alternative. This review explores the emerging field of using engineered skin tissues for cosmetic purposes, focusing specifically on their potential for anti-aging, repair, and hair restoration applications. We discuss how these technologies aim to rejuvenate aging skin by promoting collagen production, reducing wrinkles, and improving overall skin function. Additionally, the use of engineered skin for wound healing and scar reduction is examined, highlighting their potential to improve the appearance and functionality of damaged skin. Finally, we advance the exciting prospects of utilizing skin tissue engineering techniques to regenerate hair follicles, potentially offering solutions for hair loss and promoting denser hair growth.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141647990","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Effect of an Oral Probiotic Mixture on Clinical Evolution and the Gut and Skin Microbiome in Patients with Alopecia Areata: A Randomized Clinical Trial","authors":"M. Navarro‐Belmonte, Ángel Aguado-García, Pedro Sánchez-Pellicer, Eva Núñez-Delegido, Laura Navarro-Moratalla, María Martínez-Villaescusa, Alejandro García-Navarro, V. Navarro-López","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040119","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040119","url":null,"abstract":"(1) Background: Given the autoimmune nature of Alopecia Areata (AA) and the immunomodulatory properties of probiotics, this trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a probiotic mixture, consisting of Lactobacillus rhamnosus and Bifidobacterium longum strains, as an adjuvant treatment in a group of AA patients. (2) Method: This study was a 24-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Twenty-six patients with AA were included in this study, and their clinical progression, along with changes in gut and skin microbiota, were analyzed. (3) Results: A higher proportion of AA patients treated with the probiotic formula showed improvement compared to the placebo group, based on both the reduction in the number of AA plaques (56% vs. 30%) and the affected scalp surface area (45% vs. 20%). For “activity”, “inactivity”, and “regrowth”, an improvement in 55%, 67%, and 55% of patients was, respectively, observed in the probiotic group, compared to 50%, 40%, and 30% in the placebo group. No changes were observed in the gut microbiota during the intervention period. Regarding skin microbiota, changes were detected in the probiotic group, with reductions in characteristic genera during the study. (4) Conclusions: To our knowledge, this is the first clinical trial assessing the efficacy of a probiotic product in patients with AA. This probiotic mixture in a routine clinical practice setting appears to improve the course of patients. In addition, the skin microbiota of scalp lesions was modified using the probiotic treatment.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141651233","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives","authors":"T. T. T. Nguyen, E. Yi, Xiangji Jin, Qiwen Zheng, Se-Jig Park, Gyeong-Seon Yi, Su-Jin Yang, Tae-Hoo Yi","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040118","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040118","url":null,"abstract":"Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) complex inhibition prompt the exploration of safer, non-invasive alternatives. This review critically assesses recent innovations in non-invasive effects, with a focus on peptides and botanical extracts that exhibit a diverse array of mechanisms including SNARE complex inhibition, modulation of calcium and sodium channels, and interactions with acetylcholine receptors, contributing to their effectiveness in muscle relaxation on dynamic wrinkle approaches. Noteworthy peptides such as Argireline and SYN-Ake replicate the neuromodulatory effects of Botox, achieving up to a 52% reduction in wrinkles within four weeks without injections. Moreover, botanical extracts meet the rising demand for clean beauty solutions by enhancing skin elasticity and health through gentle yet potent mechanisms. However, the main concern with peptides is their low absorption rate, with only six clinical validations regarding Botox-like peptide anti-wrinkle efficacy available. These advancements not only deepen our understanding of cosmetic dermatology but also significantly influence market dynamics and consumer behavior, underscoring their pivotal role in redefining the future landscape of anti-aging effects.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141655935","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Preliminary Experience with a Cleansing Mousse and a Non-Steroidal Emulsion for the Prevention and Treatment of Acute Radiation Dermatitis in Breast Cancer Patients Undergoing Adjuvant Radiotherapy","authors":"A. Viola, E. Martorana, Valentina Zagardo, G. Ferini","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040117","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040117","url":null,"abstract":"Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which is generally managed with emollients, moisturizers, or corticosteroids. We conducted a prospective observational study to evaluate the rate and grade of RD with the application of a cleansing mousse and a non-steroidal emulsion during the adjuvant RT program in patients with breast cancer submitted to surgery. Materials and Methods: A cleansing mousse containing vegetable glycerin (12%), phytoextract of chamomile (0.5%), yarrow phytoextract (0.5%), sweet almond (0.1%), Oenothera oil (0.1%), and rice protein hydrolyzate (0.1%), and an emulsion containing micronized zinc oxide (3.7%), rapeseed phytosterols (1.7%), aloe (0.5%), 18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid (0.5%), alpha bisabolol (0.5%), and zanthalene (0.5%) were offered to breast cancer patients undergoing adjuvant RT to prevent the onset of RD and mitigate its severity. These specific ingredients were selected for their well-known anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties. Skin toxicities were recorded photographically and graded according to the RTOG scoring system. Results: From March 2023 to July 2023, a total of 24 patients with a median age of 59 years (range 42–75) were enrolled. Halfway through the RT treatment, 20 patients (83.3%) had G0 skin toxicity, three (12.5%) G1, one (4.2%) G2. None showed G3–G4 toxicity. At the end of RT, seven patients (29.2%) exhibited G0 skin toxicity, 14 (58.3%) G1, two (8.3%) G2, one (4.2%) G3. No patient developed G4 toxicity. Fifteen days after the end of RT, 13 patients (54.2%) had G0 skin toxicity, 10 (41.1%) G1, one (4.2%) G2, with none showing G3–G4 toxicity. Conclusions: Our data suggest that the tested topicals might be an effective option for preventing and alleviating RD. Further prospective randomized studies are needed to confirm our findings.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141655792","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Plant Essential Oil Nanoemulgel as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient: A Review","authors":"Xing Fui Yap, S. H. Saw, Vuanghao Lim, C. X. Tan","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040116","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040116","url":null,"abstract":"Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their high volatility often poses a challenge to the transdermal delivery of their bioactive constituents. Additionally, the direct application of pure EOs on the skin may result in irritating effects. Hence, various novel carrier systems have been explored for the topical application of EOs. Among these, nanoemulgel has received particular attention from the cosmeceutical industry. It is a hybrid technology combining nanoemulsion and a gelling phase, which can enhance the bioadhesivity of EOs, at the same time minimizing their irritating effects. This review summarizes the methods of EO extraction, steps and factors influencing the preparation of EO nanoemulgel, and characterization parameters for nanoemulgel studies. The potential cosmeceutical applications of EO nanoemulgels as an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and penetration enhancer are also compiled and discussed.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141660769","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Strategic Approaches in Formulation Development for Atopic Dermatitis","authors":"Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, Khanh Phan, Ayyah Abdoh, N. Andréo-Filho, Patricia Santos Lopes, Y. Mohammed, V. R. Leite-Silva","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040113","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040113","url":null,"abstract":"Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141664042","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A Spotlight on the Potential of Microscopic Motile Algae as Novel Sources for Modern Cosmetic Products","authors":"Maya P. Stoyneva-Gärtner, Blagoy A. Uzunov, G. Gärtner","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040115","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040115","url":null,"abstract":"The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of them are utilized commercially. Flagellates from different taxonomic groups occupy various habitats and contain bioactive high-value multifunctional compounds, some of which are novel. Moreover, they may simultaneously produce different substances, which together with the development of downstream processing technologies, makes them a promising source for modern biotechnology. The present review covers data on 411 strains, 251 species from 110 genera from 6 phyla, and is oriented generally towards less explored flagellates. It demonstrates their great potential as bearers of interesting novel compounds that can be beneficially applied in modern cosmetics. Safety aspects of both sources and products are also discussed. Considering the gaps in the knowledge, the necessity to expand the research on both well-known and yet unexplored microalgae is shown, encouraging the development of upstreaming processes, including phycoprospecting. Last but not least, this paper outlines the role of living culture collections and of using good taxonomic expertise before running the biochemical tests, cultivation, and bioengineering experiments.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141663741","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Itch-Relieving Cosmetics","authors":"Ju Hee Han, Hei Sung Kim","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040114","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040114","url":null,"abstract":"This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to control itch. Highlighted are ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal, postbiotics, menthol, peppermint, cryosim-1, capsaicin, asivatrep, polidocanol, pramoxine hydrocholoride, and palmitoylethanolamide, which are recognized to reduce itch. Special attention is also given to phytochemicals that can modulate the Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription signaling pathway and carry the potential as an itch-relieving cosmetic ingredient. This review encompasses clinical studies that verify the itch relieving effect of these cosmetic ingredients. By integrating current scientific evidence, we aim to shed light on the potential of anti-itch cosmetics as an adjunct to standard itch treatment, thereby broadening our understanding of their role in dermatological care.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141665974","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Antioxidative Potentials of Eleutherine bulbosa Bulb and Its Utilization in Topical Cosmetic Emulsion","authors":"Nattakan Panyachariwat, Ampa Jimtaisong, N. Saewan","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11040111","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040111","url":null,"abstract":"The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in cosmetic formulation, were employed as green and sustainable extraction solvents. EtOH and PG displayed better candidacy to extract active components from E. bulbosa bulbs than using water, and the mixture of EtOH and PG (EtOH/PG) resulted in the extract with higher bioactive compounds and biological activities compared with using EtOH or PG. The total phenolic content of the EtOH/PG extract was 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL which was about an 18–23% increase from when using single EtOH or PG (70.91 ± 2.30, 74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL). UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis showed that the E. bulbosa bulb extracted in EtOH/PG was composed of naphthalenes, naphthoquinones, anthraquinones, myricetin, quercetin, epicatechin, catechin, epigallocatechin, and their derivatives. The ethanolic crude extract exhibited anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity with the IC50 of 7.76 ± 0.35 and 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL, respectively, and was non-cytotoxic to human dermal fibroblast cells at 0.0001–1 mg/mL. The emulsion cream containing 2%(w/w) E. bulbosa bulb concentrated extract was found cosmetically stable after a one-month stability test under 4 °C, ambient temperature (30–35 °C), 45 °C, fluorescent light, and daylight. However, exposure to sunlight during daytime caused changes in the emulsion’s color with ΔE* of 3.85 ± 0.08, and at 45 °C caused the 12% decrease in DPPH activity of emulsion. The finding of this work heightens the antioxidative and safety potentials of the E. bulbosa bulb in cosmetic preparations.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.4,"publicationDate":"2024-07-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141672163","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}