Franklin Lozano, Sofia Tapía-Pacci, Ruth Ccopa, Arturo Quispe-Quispe, Juan C. Salazar-López
{"title":"Effect of mordants on colour variation in alpaca fibre dyed with dye extracted from the tankar stem (Berberis boliviana L.)","authors":"Franklin Lozano, Sofia Tapía-Pacci, Ruth Ccopa, Arturo Quispe-Quispe, Juan C. Salazar-López","doi":"10.1111/cote.12760","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12760","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The objective of the research was to evaluate the effect of mordants on colour variation, textile characteristics, colour fastness, and Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) bands in alpaca fibre dyed with tankar stem extract. The white alpaca fibre was obtained from the company Inka Tops S.A. The mordants used were: alum (KAl(SO<sub>4</sub>)<sub>2</sub>·12H<sub>2</sub>O) at 20% and iron(II) sulphate (FeSO<sub>4</sub>) at 3%. Prior to dyeing, a pre-mordanting process was carried out (86°C for 30 min), and dyeing was performed through thermal treatment at 70 and 86°C (30 and 60 min). The CIELab [<i>L</i>*, <i>a</i>*, <i>b</i>*, chroma (<i>C</i>*) and hue (h°)] coordinates and reflectance were evaluated using a spectrometer; textile characteristics were assessed with OFDA (optical fibre diameter analyser) 2000; chemical bands were analysed with an FTIR-attenuated total reflectance (ATR) spectrophotometer, and colour fastness (light, washing, and rubbing) was evaluated using international American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standards. The results showed that luminosity (<i>L</i>*) significantly decreased after dyeing and pre-mordanting with KAl(SO<sub>4</sub>)<sub>2</sub>·12H<sub>2</sub>O (81.47) and FeSO<sub>4</sub> (70.47). Additionally, the <i>b</i>* value and <i>C</i>* value significantly increased at higher temperature and longer dyeing time, resulting in slightly different shades and hues in each treatment. The coefficient of variation (CV) and curvature index (CU) presented significant differences, with CU increasing at 86°C/60 min with FeSO<sub>4</sub>. Colour fastness to washing and rubbing showed acceptable values on the greyscale. In conclusion, the mordants used had a significant effect on colour variation, textile characteristics, colour fastness, and FTIR spectrum. The most intense shades were observed in fibres pre-mordanted with FeSO<sub>4</sub> (dull yellow-green) and in dyeing without mordant (yellow).</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 1","pages":"54-62"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140074259","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Aminoddin Haji, Morteza Vadood, Merve Öztürk, İdil Yigit, Semiha Eren, Hüseyin Aksel Eren
{"title":"Prediction of colour strength in environmentally-friendly dyeing of polyester fabric with madder using supercritical carbon dioxide","authors":"Aminoddin Haji, Morteza Vadood, Merve Öztürk, İdil Yigit, Semiha Eren, Hüseyin Aksel Eren","doi":"10.1111/cote.12757","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12757","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The textile industry is one of the significant reasons for global water pollution, with dyeing processes being particularly environmentally detrimental. Researchers have explored alternative approaches to address this issue, such as using natural dyes, supercritical fluids and so forth. In addition to environment-friendly approaches, reducing the number of experiments in studies, accurate production straightaway and using artificial intelligence (AI), one of the technologies of the present and the future that will provide significant support. Reaching clearer results with AI technology will not necessarily contribute to environment-friendly technologies. However, AI techniques, including artificial neural networks (ANNs) and adaptive neuro fuzzy interface system (ANFIS) were employed to predict the colour strength (<i>K/S</i>) of the dyed fabric based on process parameters. A comprehensive experimental design involving pressure, temperature, and time variations was conducted, and the results were analysed using multi-factor analysis of variance (MANOVA). The study demonstrates that supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO<sub>2</sub>) dyeing with madder on polyester fabric is a promising and environmentally friendly approach. Additionally, the optimised ANN and ANFIS models, aided by genetic algorithms (GAs), exhibit high predictive accuracy (less than 3%), providing insights into the impact of process parameters on colour strength. This research underscores the potential of AI-driven automation in textile dyeing, offering solutions for dye formula prediction, colour matching, and defect detection, reducing the need for human intervention in these processes.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"141 1","pages":"44-53"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140026159","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Evaluation of the extracts of purple basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) as natural pH-indicator dyes anticipated to be utilised in intelligent food packaging—an optimisation study","authors":"Elif Erez, Beste Bayramoglu","doi":"10.1111/cote.12754","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12754","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Purple basil (<i>Ocimum basilicum</i> L.) extract has significant potential as a natural colorimetric pH-indicator material owing to its abundance in anthocyanins. This contribution is the first to optimise the ultrasound-assisted extraction of purple basil by response surface methodology in terms of maximum total monomeric anthocyanin (TMA) content and pH-dependent increase in green intensity (IGI) using a three-level, three-factor Box–Behnken design. The latter was considered as a measure of the pH-indicator ability of the extracts. The independent variables were ethanol concentration, solvent/solid ratio, and extraction time for two types of solvents [aqueous ethanol with 0.1% (v/v) acetic acid (Ac) or hydrochloric acid]. Optimum conditions were determined for single and combined responses. The extracts were further characterised according to total phenolic content (TPC), percentage polymeric colour (PPC), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) antioxidant, and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities. All models explained more than 93% of the variability. The combined response model for the Ac-acidified system gave more favourable optimal conditions [55.25% (v/v) ethanol, 30 mL/g solvent/solid ratio and 39.24 min] regarding lower ethanol consumption and shorter times. Validation experiments verified the model successfully predicted the responses. The corresponding TMA, IGI, PPC, TPC, ABTS, and DPPH values were determined as 4.83 ± 0.18 mg cyanidin-3-glucoside equivalent, 2.29 ± 0.05, 68.07 ± 3.17, 28.79 ± 1.54 mg gallic acid equivalent, 55.85 ± 1.71 mg Trolox equivalent, and 16.80 ± 1.08 mg ascorbic acid equivalent per gram dry weight, respectively.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 6","pages":"937-951"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12754","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139926263","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Dongxia Yao, Shaofeng Lu, Zhenheng Huang, Haizhu Wang
{"title":"Improving the coloration depth and fastness of poly(ethylene-vinyl acetate) foam dyed with disperse dye by carrier dyeing and film formation","authors":"Dongxia Yao, Shaofeng Lu, Zhenheng Huang, Haizhu Wang","doi":"10.1111/cote.12755","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12755","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In order to solve the problems of poor dyeing properties and the colour fastness to ageing of poly(ethylene-vinyl acetate) (EVA) foam, good dyeing performance was obtained by disperse dye carrier dyeing method, and the colour fastness to ageing was improved by surface film forming. The effect of dyeing process on dyeing properties was investigated by the single factor variable method. The effect of film formation on colour fastness to ageing was also studied. The results showed that disperse dye carrier dyeing could significantly improve the dyeing depth of EVA foam. Addition of carrier and prolongation of dyeing time could significantly improve the colour strength (<i>K/S</i>) values and dye penetration. However, the increase of the dosage of dyes and the concentration of the carrier could lead to a serious decrease of the colour fastness to ageing of EVA. The colour fastness to ageing of EVA could be obviously improved by film forming on the surface. Waterborne polyurethane film-forming agent could improve the colour fastness to ageing by 1.5 grades, but the rubbing fastness was poor. When waterborne polyurethane and acrylate film-forming agent were compounded, the colour fastness to ageing and the colour fastness to rubbing could be improved.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 6","pages":"925-936"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139764393","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Investigation of the effects of colour on the user's fabric handle perception and warm/cool feeling","authors":"Rıza Atav, Seda Keskin","doi":"10.1111/cote.12756","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12756","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Colour has been an indispensable element for humanity from past to present. Colour, which in the past was used only to add visual appeal and to differentiate from others, is now also used for various functional purposes (such as textiles that change colour with heat). The aim of this study is to investigate whether the fabric colour has an effect on the handle perception and warm/cool feeling of the user. Studies have shown that, in subjective evaluations, fabrics with warm colours (yellow, red and orange) cause softer and warmer feeling than those with cool colours (blue, green and purple). In fact, considering that there is no statistically significant difference between the handle and temperature values determined by objective test methods, it can be said that this perception may arise from the psychological effect of colour. All these results reveal that colour, beyond adding visual appreciation to the fabric, also has an effect on handle perception and warm/cool feeling, which play an important role in the purchasing process for customers.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 6","pages":"913-924"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139764310","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Khai Ly Do, Asim Mushtaq, Taswar Ahsan, Muhammad Yousaf, Feng Zhao, Miao Su
{"title":"Flavonoid-based yellow dye extract from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) combined with chitosan for anti-bacterial and ultraviolet-protective functionalisation of silk","authors":"Khai Ly Do, Asim Mushtaq, Taswar Ahsan, Muhammad Yousaf, Feng Zhao, Miao Su","doi":"10.1111/cote.12750","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12750","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In the modern period, scientists are interested in the functional properties of natural materials. The present study is the first report on the use of safflower (<i>Carthamus tinctorius</i> L.) yellow dye extract combined with chitosan bio-mordant for enhancing the anti-bacterial and ultraviolet-protective activities of silk. The presence of flavonoid-based compounds in the dye extract was verified using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry, Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy, and ultraviolet-visible techniques. Moreover, alum mordant was also utilised in the silk dyeing process to compare the efficiency of bio and metallic mordanting agents. Experiment outcomes revealed that the chitosan mordanted-dyed silk sustained adequate fastness after being tested by washing, light, wet-rubbing, and dry-rubbing. In addition, superb bacterial inhibition percentages of 89% and 76% against <i>Escherichia coli</i> and <i>Staphylococcus aureus</i>, individually, were accomplished. Furthermore, the ultraviolet-protective behaviour of this silk sample was demonstrated with a 50+ ultraviolet protection factor and low-grade ultraviolet transmittance. This study reveals the great performance of an organic flavonoid dye as a sustainable and environmentally-friendly substance for dyeing and functionalising silk, as well as the efficacy of a green mordant over a metallic mordant in increasing the dyeability and functional activities of silk.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 6","pages":"900-912"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139764315","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Karine Thaise Rainert, Carlos Rafael Silva de Oliveira, Brenno Henrique Siva Felipe, Heiderose Herpich, Rita de Cássia Siqueira Curto Valle, José Alexandre Borges Valle
{"title":"Textile printing: An integrated view of processes, properties, and future prospects","authors":"Karine Thaise Rainert, Carlos Rafael Silva de Oliveira, Brenno Henrique Siva Felipe, Heiderose Herpich, Rita de Cássia Siqueira Curto Valle, José Alexandre Borges Valle","doi":"10.1111/cote.12746","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12746","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Textile printing processes consist of the localised application of colour on textile substrates to obtain well-defined designs and patterns. Currently, there are many textile printing techniques; however, the limitations and selectivity of these techniques still keep the printing method of rotary screen printing the most important and used among them. One of the advantages of rotary printing is its excellent application versatility, which can be used for any fabric and non-wovens, fibre, or mixtures, with high production speed, quality, colour fastness, and definition. However, due to its high complexity, rotary printing requires great technical knowledge. Rotary printing requires specific application care depending on the fabric structure, fibrous composition, grammage, and type of intended effect. Regardless of the technique used, printed articles need to ensure that the colour remains attached to the substrate, either by direct dye–fibre or indirect pigment–binder–fibre bonding, to resist the conditions of use, that is, light, abrasion, stretching, and washing. The rise in recent publications reflects the search for economic and sustainable textile printing alternatives, focusing on screen printing variables. Based on this, this review aimed to present a comprehensive guide containing all the care and essential technical information for processes based on rotary printing.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 4","pages":"556-570"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-01-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139644666","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Valorisation of Napier grass through fibre extraction and coloration by natural dye from Rubia tinctorum","authors":"Harshal Patil, Suraj Yadav, Ashok Athalye","doi":"10.1111/cote.12747","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12747","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Agricultural biomass is a well-known renewable resource with a strong possibility of recycling. The current work focuses on extracting, preparing and colouring Napier grass fibre (NGF) with a colourant extracted from <i>Rubia tinctorum</i> (RT) (which is generally known as madder). NGF that had been water-retted was alkaline scoured and bleached using hydrogen peroxide to increase the material's whiteness index and water absorption capacity without degrading its breaking strength. After being mordanted with tannic acid, the bleached NGF was coloured with an aqueous extract of the colourant extracted from RT. The Box–Behnken response surface methodology design model was employed to optimise the dyeing concentration, temperature and time. The dyed fibre showed good colour strength (<i>K/S</i>) and adequate wash, rub and light fastness. Adopting the findings from the current study would increase the efficient utilisation of biomass for use in textiles, which is unnecessarily wasted.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 6","pages":"858-867"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2024-01-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139587977","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Qing Guo, Weiguo Chen, Dongming Qi, Pu Gao, Min Wang, Daquan Zhu, Jie Ling, Zhihua Cui
{"title":"Photostability of Mannich-type dyed silk fibroin with pyrazolone-containing aromatic primary amine dyes","authors":"Qing Guo, Weiguo Chen, Dongming Qi, Pu Gao, Min Wang, Daquan Zhu, Jie Ling, Zhihua Cui","doi":"10.1111/cote.12743","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12743","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Mannich-type dyeing of silk fibroin with aromatic primary amine dyes (APADs) is a novel reactive dyeing method that requires mild conditions and exhibits high selectivity and good wet fastness. However, the primary amine group in the APADs significantly decreases the photostability of Mannich-type dyed silk fabrics. To reveal the structure–activity relationship and photofading mechanism of the APADs by Mannich-type dyeing, six pyrazolone-containing APADs with similar structures were designed and synthesised. Variation in amino electron density among the dye analogues was related to differences in colour fixation of the Mannich-dyed fabrics, as determined from the calculated Mulliken charge densities. Using mass spectrometry to monitor the photodecomposition of the dyed silk, it is demonstrated that the Mannich-type dyed silk fabrics undergo photooxidative fading, in contrast to the conventional acidic-type dyed fabrics that undergo photoreductive fading. Furthermore, it is shown that the Mannich-type dyed silk fabric has a higher light fastness than conventional acidic-type dyed fabrics using the same pyrazolone-containing APADs. Evaluation of dye dipole moment and Mannich-type dyeing shows that the APADs with increased dipole moments generally demonstrated increased light fastness.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 5","pages":"757-768"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138518101","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Zhiqi Yu, Yang Xu, Yuanfei Wang, Yuekun Wang, Xiaowei Sheng
{"title":"Unsupervised fabric defect detection based on multiscale image reconstruction and structural similarity assessment","authors":"Zhiqi Yu, Yang Xu, Yuanfei Wang, Yuekun Wang, Xiaowei Sheng","doi":"10.1111/cote.12744","DOIUrl":"10.1111/cote.12744","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Fabric defect detection is a crucial aspect of the textile industry. Currently, deep learning methods have demonstrated exceptional performance in fabric defect detection tasks. However, their performance is greatly affected by the number of defect samples, which is a challenge to obtain during actual production. To address this issue, this article proposes an unsupervised anomaly detection method for fabric defects using image reconstruction networks. This method only requires defect-free samples for training. During the training phase, the model compresses defect-free samples to obtain a low-dimensional manifold and reconstruct them. During the inference phase, the method assesses whether a sample is defective by calculating the reconstruction error between the input and output images, and locates the defect region by computing the difference in various patches. Furthermore, since fabric contains rich texture features, with high correlation between neighbouring pixels, a structure similarity index measure combined with mean absolute error is introduced to evaluate the reconstruction error, which enhances the model's representation ability for defect-free samples. Additionally, considering the diverse texture backgrounds in fabric, a multiscale reconstruction module is designed to optimise the reconstruction effect. Experimental results demonstrate that compared with other related approaches, the proposed method achieves high accuracy (image-based area under the curve (AUC) up to 98.2% and pixel-based AUC up to 97.3%) on multiple datasets and has good generalisation ability for different fabric textures.</p>","PeriodicalId":10502,"journal":{"name":"Coloration Technology","volume":"140 6","pages":"827-842"},"PeriodicalIF":2.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138518102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}