AATCC Journal of Research最新文献

{"title":"Process of Incorporation of Cerium Oxide in Viscose to Spin Infrared Reflecting Viscose Fibers","authors":"Esha Sharma, R. Agarwal, S. Ralebhat, Gurudatt Krishnamurthy, S. Bhagwat, R. Adivarekar","doi":"10.1177/24723444221084405","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221084405","url":null,"abstract":"The concept of leveraging the optical properties of cerium oxide into viscose fibers was demonstrated in this study. The process of dispersing cerium oxide particles uniformly into viscose dope prior to viscose fiber spinning was studied in detail. Cerium oxide powder was dispersed in the chosen media using mechanical treatments such as ball milling and ultrasonication. These experiments were carried out at two extreme pH values to replicate the viscose spinning bath (acidic pH 5) and viscose dope (alkaline pH 13). The dispersion was characterized for particle size and surface charge properties. A combination of the mechanical treatments synergistically reduced the cerium oxide particle size in acidic and alkaline pH from 1300 to 290 nm and from 1040 to 280 nm, respectively. Three surfactants of different ionic natures were evaluated for stabilizing the cerium oxide dispersions. The effects on the particle size of cerium oxide in two dispersion environments, that is, aqueous and polymeric media, were studied through conventional as well as novel visual characterization techniques. The phosphate ether-based anionic surfactant was found to significantly reduce the dispersed particle size and effectively stabilize the dispersion better, which was validated through a pressure buildup monitoring system during viscose fiber spinning. The surfactant-stabilized cerium oxide dispersion was used to get functional infrared reflecting viscose fibers. To characterize this effect, a direct visual evaluation was done through an infrared camera which indicated a significant improvement of infrared reflectivity and a 2.5–3°C surface temperature buildup of the cerium-oxide viscose fibers in comparison to regular viscose fibers. The infrared reflective property of cerium oxide imparts a thermal insulation effect which was found to increase to a thermal insulating value of 90 in the case of cerium oxide viscose fibers compared with a thermal insulating value of 79 in regular viscose fibers, as measured by the KESF Thermolabo II instrument. This study can very well be extended to many fiber-making processes where an understanding of interfacial interactions of additives with cellulose is critical to impart functionality to viscose fibers.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"163 - 175"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-04-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45644454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Effect of Orientation Degree of Electrospun Polystyrene Fiber on Filtration Performance of Fiber Membrane","authors":"Yuansheng Zheng, Jingyuan Gao, Kai Liu, Cheng Ge","doi":"10.1177/24723444221081457","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221081457","url":null,"abstract":"In this study, ultrafine polystyrene fiber membranes with different fiber orientation degrees were prepared by and electrospinning method, and two methods were used to characterize the fiber orientation degree. In addition, the effects of fiber orientation degree on the surface wettability and smoke filtration performance of fiber membrane were studied. The results showed that the water repellency and smoke absorption capacity of the polystyrene fiber membrane decrease with the increasing fiber orientation degree and the porosity. The orientation degree of the fiber has a significant influence on the smoke filtration performance of fiber membrane.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"90 - 97"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44973451","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Low Temperature Bleaching of Jute Using Peracetic Acid: A Novel Process","authors":"S. N. Chattopadhyay, N. C. Pan, A. N. Roy, K. Samanta","doi":"10.1177/24723444221081458","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221081458","url":null,"abstract":"Jute, a natural golden fibre, is renewable and widely available and mostly used for the packaging of agricultural crops and commodities in the form of sack bag. However, over a period of time it has secured its own market in the field of home textiles and other lifestyle products due to its ethnic colour, good strength and biodegradable properties. Recently, jute has also been used in apparel products, particularly meant for outer and winter garments. Bleaching of jute has thus become an essential operation for making a white glossy fabric, that is, the base material to be used for subsequent coloration. The conventional hot hydrogen peroxide bleaching process produces good white fibre with a high loss in tensile strength. The present peracetic acid bleaching of scoured jute produces a satisfactory whiteness index of 65.8–77.7 with minimum loss of bundle strength. The peracetic acid bleached jute fibre could retain 85% of its bundle strength, when the bleaching was carried out at 70°C with 20 g/l peracetic acid for 120 min. A satisfactory whiteness index of 77 (Hunter scale) can be achieved incurring a low weight loss of <4.2 using the optimized recipe. The peracetic acid bleaching process may be considered as energy efficient and environment friendly, as the process is carried out at a near neutral pH of 7.5–8 and lower temperature of 50–70°C, in comparison to the 85–90°C and pH level of 11–11.5 (highly alkaline) normally used in hydrogen peroxide bleaching. The changes in physical, morphological and chemical properties after the peracetic acid bleaching of jute at optimized conditions were evaluated in detail.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"98 - 105"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42559983","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Photochromic Microcapsules for Textile Materials by Spray Drying—Part 3: Application of Photochromic Microcapsules on Cotton Fabrics","authors":"S. Morsümbül, E. Kumbasar, A. Çay","doi":"10.1177/24723444221081449","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221081449","url":null,"abstract":"Photochromic textiles, a class of functional textiles, have a color build up feature under ultraviolet light irradiation. However, photochromic dye application onto textile materials by conventional finishing techniques has difficulties due to their low water solubility and low affinity to the textile materials. Encapsulation technology could be used to overcome these problems in the production of photochromic textile materials. This article, which is the third in a three-part series, deals with the application of photochromic dye microcapsules produced by a spray drying method onto cotton fabrics. The photochromic dye microcapsules were applied onto cotton fabrics by a pad–dry–cure process. Color build up and ultraviolet transmittance of the resultant photochromic fabrics were evaluated after the application and consecutive washing. Moreover, the fatigue resistance of the photochromic fabrics was studied and the effects of the incorporation of hindered amine light stabilizers into microcapsules were investigated. Ultraviolet protection factor values of the samples were found to be 50+ even after 20 washing cycles. It was shown that the photochromic fabrics have a loss of 10% in ultraviolet protection factor values and 20% in color values after 20 ultraviolet irradiation cycles and the fatigue resistance of the photochromic dye capsules improved with the use of hindered amine light stabilizer compounds during microcapsule production.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"63 - 73"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46764494","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Improved Gray Water Footprint Calculation and Assessment Method for Polyester Fabric Production","authors":"Ke Wang, Xiaopeng Wang, Xiang Feng, Laili Wang","doi":"10.1177/24723444221081455","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221081455","url":null,"abstract":"Gray water footprint has been widely used as an indicator to quantify the water environmental impact of textile products. Traditionally, gray water footprint values are determined by the largest gray water footprint value of the typical water pollutant. The performances of other critical compounds that coexist in wastewater are disregarded. To mitigate these shortcomings associated with gray water footprint accounting and assessment, an improved gray water footprint calculation and assessment framework is proposed in this study. The diffusion and attenuation process of pollutants in rivers was considered for the comprehensive accounting and evaluation of the impacts caused by various pollutants in discharged wastewater. Polyester fabric production was used to illustrate the application of the improved gray water footprint calculation and assessment method. The results revealed that chemical oxygen demand caused the most severe water eutrophication impact and antimony caused the most severe water ecotoxicity impact. The comprehensive evaluation of improved gray water footprint indicated that alkali peeling process caused the largest water environmental impact during polyester fabric production.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"74 - 80"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45346779","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dyeing and Some Fastness Properties of Novel Perlite-Containing Polyester Woven Fabrics","authors":"S. Omeroğlu, B. Becerir, E. Karaca","doi":"10.1177/24723444221081456","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221081456","url":null,"abstract":"This article is focused on the comparison of dyeing, and washing and light fastness properties of conventional and novel perlite-containing polyester woven fabrics via color measurements. All the production processes for the regular and perlite-containing polyester filament yarns were the same. The fabrics were dyed with three medium level energy disperse dyes of different hues in order to observe the shade change caused by the intrinsic yellowness of the perlite-containing fabric. Dyeing and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were evaluated by their corresponding lightness (L*), chroma (C*), color strength (K/S), and color difference (ΔEab*) results. The perlite-containing fabrics showed similar dyeing and fastness characteristics when compared with the regular fabrics. The perlite-added fabrics were dyed in darker color but had lower chroma values than the regular ones. The perlite-added fabrics also had better fastness results than the regular fabrics when the evaluation was performed in the group itself. Intrinsic yellowness of perlite-added fabrics must be taken into account for any attempt to dye the fabric to a pre-designed shade.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"81 - 89"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43096074","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Phenolic Compounds, Dyeing Potential, and Cytotoxic Activity of Alkanna orientalis L. Boiss (Boraginaceae)","authors":"A. S. Yaglıoglu, F. Eser, M. Dolarslan","doi":"10.1177/24723444221081464","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/24723444221081464","url":null,"abstract":"Dyeing of cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester/viscose blended fabrics has been carried out with the aqueous extract of the roots of Alkanna orientalis plant. Fastness properties and color strength values were investigated in terms of users. Phenolic compounds and cytotoxic activities of ethanol (EtOH) and water extracts were determined. It was found that cotton fabric dyed with the aqueous extract of the roots of A. orientalis plant in the presence of alum mordant gave better depth of shade (K/S). The toxicity studies reveal that the EtOH and the water extracts of the root of A. orientalis exhibited 0% cytotoxicity while the standard cancer drug 5-fluorouracil exhibited 6% cytotoxicity. The overall results of this study show that the roots of A. orientalis can be used in the textile industry, especially for dyeing cotton fabrics.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"106 - 114"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49246012","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Effect of Arm Postures and Garment Style on Local Mobility and Thermal Insulation","authors":"Zhaohua Zhang, Jun Ni, Ying Zhou","doi":"10.1177/23305517211060813","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/23305517211060813","url":null,"abstract":"Heat transfer in clothing can be influenced by posture change of the human body and garment pattern design. In this study, the volume of the air gaps and the contact area were investigated for different arm postures of a thermal manikin using a three-dimensional body scanner, and the effect of garment pattern design was analyzed. Furthermore, the local thermal insulation of different body parts of the thermal manikin was tested for six kinds of arm postures when the manikin was dressed in various experimental garments. Both arm postures and garment styles had a strong effect on the local air gap distributions. The air gap volume decreased, and the contact area increased with the growth of protraction angles of arms. The human tests also indicated that the range of arm motion was improved, and better flexibility was perceived compared with the original style. A significant positive correlation between thermal insulation and air gap volume (r = 0.753, p < 0.001) was found.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"12 - 22"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47403477","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Second-Order Derivation Fourier Transform Infrared Spectral Analysis of Regenerated Wool Keratin Structural Changes","authors":"Zhe Jiang, Wenjia Li, Yuxia Wang, Qiang Wang","doi":"10.1177/23305517211060778","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/23305517211060778","url":null,"abstract":"Keratin is a natural biopolymer with excellent biocompatibility and biodegradability properties. It is widely used in biomaterial construction. The secondary structure of keratin is essential in its applications. This structure is associated with its regeneration. In this study, the structure of regenerated keratin from wool was analyzed using the amide I, II, and III bands from second-order derivation Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The results showed that the regenerated wool keratin retained its molecular backbone with the cleavage of disulfide bonds. The amide I and II bands indicated that the content ratio of α-helix to non-α-helix structure was less in the regenerated keratin than that of raw wool. The amide III band confirmed the contents of α-helix/β-sheet/β-turn/random coil for raw wool (35%/31%/22%/13%) and regenerated keratin (26%/35%/23%/15%).","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"43 - 48"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42491116","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Perceptual Evaluations of Plant-Dyed and Industrial-Dyed Cotton Fabrics Based on Kansei Engineering","authors":"W. Yin, Bugao Xu","doi":"10.1177/23305517211060793","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/23305517211060793","url":null,"abstract":"This study explored the perceptual cognition of differently dyed fabrics among consumers and compared perceptual evaluations of dyed fabrics made of various materials using basic theoretical knowledge of Kansei engineering and clothing materials. SPSS software was used for statistical analysis of the survey data of 100 college students to determine the characteristics of dyed cotton fabric. The results of the perceptual evaluations of plant-dyed and industrial-dyed fabrics are discussed. The most representative characteristics of cotton fabrics, core evaluation vocabulary, and perceptual evaluation factors of plant-dyed and industrial-dyed cotton fabrics were determined by the semantic difference method and cluster analysis. The relationship between the perceptual image word pairs (i.e. vision, touch, smell, health, and value) and each type of dyed fabrics was studied.","PeriodicalId":6955,"journal":{"name":"AATCC Journal of Research","volume":"9 1","pages":"23 - 34"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45002579","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}