{"title":"Tackling Overproduction? The Limits of Multistakeholder Initiatives in Fashion","authors":"A. Payne, Zoe Mellick","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2424","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2424","url":null,"abstract":"Within global value chains, multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) have become the chief means to address the environmental sustainability concerns rife throughout fibre, textile and garment production. MSIs include a wide array of non-governmental organisations, voluntary sustainability standards and reporting tools. However, MSIs can be critiqued as an incremental rather than transformative approach to environmental sustainability, firmly embedded within a green-growth paradigm. This article examines the limits and opportunities of MSIs in aiding a systemic transformation for sustainability within the fashion system. By analysing fashion-specific MSIs at two time points, 2017 and 2021, we identify that while MSI membership is growing and a degree of consolidation and harmonisation is occurring, environmental gains are offset by unrelenting growth in production. Drawing upon principles of degrowth, we propose that a scenario in which an MSI construct could have transformative power is one in which overproduction is explicitly addressed.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88314917","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Leanne Weber, Jarrett Blaustein, Kathryn Benier, Rebecca Wickes and Diana Johns (2021) Place, Race and Politics: The Anatomy of a Law and Order Crisis. UK: Emerald Publishing","authors":"Justin R. Ellis","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2389","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2389","url":null,"abstract":"Justin R. Ellis reviews Place, race and politics: The anatomy of a law and order crisis","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84417862","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Change of Mind: Marketing Social Justice to the Fashion Consumer","authors":"H. Heim","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2405","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2405","url":null,"abstract":"Marketing aims to influence consumers to buy more; however, buying more is at the very core of the fashion industry’s current malaise. A new system of marketing has arisen in the past decades that promises to offer an alternative solution: supporting the viability of brands while increasing awareness of social issues in the fashion industry and changing consumer behaviour for the better. The marketing of social justice issues or social marketing (SM) (not to be confused with social media marketing) aims to educate, influence and, ultimately, move the consumer to change their purchasing behaviour and make choices for good. Drawing on behavioural change theories and using case study methodology, this paper examines how, through crafting a desired position away from ‘product push’ and towards a social justice ‘pull’, fashion brands are experimenting with SM strategies that propose to transform buying behaviour. The findings indicate that while SM is an emerging marketing strategy for fashion brands, it results in an elevated perception of the brand and, ultimately, an increase in consumption.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83149802","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Systemic Fashion Change and Wardrobe Research–Related Tools for Supporting Consumers","authors":"Monika Holgar","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2373","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2373","url":null,"abstract":"With strong consensus around the need for holistic, systemic change to the dominant fashion paradigm across the Global North, this article aims to generate practical strategies for better engaging and supporting fashion consumers as one key stakeholder group. It critiques the prevailing discourse of ethical fashion consumption—narrowly focused on fast fashion consumption—as both unjust and considerably limiting the scope of broader consumer awareness and action. Wardrobe research facilitates rich empirical evidence of consumers’ ordinary clothing practices and can support more fair and helpful representations of fashion consumers and consumption. Proposing wardrobe research as a tool to create a more engaging and supportive discourse, the article considers how evidence from wardrobe research might enter circulation and extends to consider everyday wearers engaging in and sharing wardrobe research in ‘amateur’ forms. The article examines large public ‘garment storytelling’ projects as an example and proposes that such accessible and appealing wardrobe research–related tools could be further used and developed.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91090333","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Linear to Circular Waste Policies: Breathing Life into the Polluter Pays Principle?","authors":"Elizabeth Gachenga","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2351","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2351","url":null,"abstract":"Recycling clothes is lauded as a sustainable textile waste management strategy. A significant percentage of recycled clothes are exported to the Global South as second-hand clothing. Increased exports result in the accumulation of second-hand clothing waste in these countries. The result is a shift in responsibility for textile waste from consuming nations in the Global North to ‘recycling’ nations in the Global South. However, this ‘recycling fallacy’ perpetuates a form of fashion injustice. Waste laws, founded on the ‘polluter pays principle’, are ineffective at addressing the second-hand clothing waste problem in receiving countries. Therefore, the circular economy framework is influencing the redesign of waste laws. The circular economy could redress the problem by revitalising the polluter pays principle and extended producer responsibility policies and embedding life cycle approaches. This paper explores this possibility, using examples from Kenya (a major importer of second-hand clothing) and the European Union (a key exporter of reused clothing with emerging circular economy regulatory frameworks).","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76001182","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Finding Social and Environmental Justice in the Fashion Production Chain in Brazil: When Fashion is Created with Nature by Women in Their Communities","authors":"Evelise Anicet Rüthschilling, Eloisa Artuso","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2402","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2402","url":null,"abstract":"Brazil covers a large territory, and although only 15% of its population is distributed in rural areas (IBGE Educa 2015), rural dwellers take on the chief responsibility for conserving local biodiversity. This article uses empirical research with a qualitative approach to present four cases of consolidated communities working with Amazonian rubber, regenerative cotton, weaving and lacework. It shows how rural communities pursue solutions for sustainable livelihoods in their own place of origin through the production of raw materials and products for the fashion chain, ensuring food security, income generation, maintenance of local biomes and gender justice. Particularly, this study examines the role of women beyond their families in ensuring work equity and better income distribution. Design appears as a positive agent, transforming ancestral and artisanal culture and knowledge into product innovation with added value to ensure production viability as well as enhancing community wellbeing.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76181978","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Visible Mending, Street Stitching, and Embroidered Handkerchiefs: How Craftivism is Being Used to Challenge the Fashion Industry","authors":"A. McGovern, Clementine Barnes","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2352","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2352","url":null,"abstract":"The contemporary practice of ‘craftivism’—which uses crafts such as knitting, sewing and embroidery to draw attention to ‘issues of social, political and environmental justice’ (Fitzpatrick 2018: 3)—has its origins in centuries of radical craft work where women and marginalised peoples, in particular, have employed crafts to protest, take a stand or comment on issues that concern them. Recently, craftivist actions have targeted the fashion and textile industry in an effort to highlight and address some of the social and environmental impacts of the global fashion industry, from the throwaway culture of fast fashion through to the unethical pay and working conditions of ready-made garment workers. Drawing on examples of both individual and collective forms of craftivism, this paper explores the ways that craftivism is being deployed not only as a means by which to mobilise the ethical use, consumption and production of fashion and textiles across the globe but also to hold the fashion industry to account against key concerns highlighted by the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. In canvassing these examples, the paper considers the utility of craftivism as a model for challenging the fashion industry to effect change.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90337056","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Evading Responsibility: A Structural Critique of Living Wage Initiatives and Methodologies","authors":"Justine Coneybeer, R. Maguire","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2406","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2406","url":null,"abstract":"Despite the existence of multiple living wage initiatives and methodologies for calculating a living wage, there has been limited improvement in increasing garment workers’ incomes. This paper applies Iris Marion Young’s responsibility for structural injustice theory to connect apparel brands and retailers as the actors with power, privilege and capacity to enact change to improve poverty wages. This paper critically analyses two living wage methodologies and three living wage initiatives, drawing upon Young’s theory to understand why progress on living wage has stagnated. The analysis also considers whether gender has been incorporated, finding that most methodologies and initiatives fail to adequately embed gendered considerations. Findings reveal that the most powerful actors in apparel global values chains (brands and retailers) evade responsibility through performative membership with initiatives that prioritise profit, ignore gendered considerations and require minimum changes from businesses as usual.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-06-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83275727","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Motivations to enter the Police Profession in the Caribbean: Evidence from a Cohort of Jamaican Police Recruits","authors":"W. C. Wallace, Malisa Neptune-Figaro","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2066","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2066","url":null,"abstract":"While the topic of motivation to enter policing has proliferated in the Global North, there are limited studies examining recruit’s motivations to enter policing in the Caribbean. As a result, the current effort was designed to analyze the motivations for entering the police profession by gathering data from police recruits in training at the National Police College in Jamaica via standardized, self-administered questionnaires. Data were gathered from one hundred and sixty-one (n=161) police recruits and analyzed using Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS). The analyses were based on gender, age, marital status and educational level and sought to determine the motivations of police recruits who entered the Jamaica Constabulary Force (JCF). The findings indicated that the major motivations for entry into policing in Jamaica were: (1) the desire to assist others, (2) the opportunity to further education, and (3) the opportunity to enforce laws. This study provides insights into the motivations behind motivations for entry into policing in Jamaica and is a starting point for future research on motivations to enter the police profession in the Caribbean. \u0000 \u0000 ","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-05-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73712029","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jack Beetson, P. Anderson, Sophia Lin, Frances Williamson, Rose Amazan, B. Boughton, S. Morrell, Richard Taylor, Melanie Schwartz
{"title":"Impact of a Community-Controlled Adult Literacy Campaign on Crime and Justice Outcomes in Remote Australian Aboriginal Communities","authors":"Jack Beetson, P. Anderson, Sophia Lin, Frances Williamson, Rose Amazan, B. Boughton, S. Morrell, Richard Taylor, Melanie Schwartz","doi":"10.5204/ijcjsd.2201","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5204/ijcjsd.2201","url":null,"abstract":"Using qualitative self-reported and observational evidence combined with a quantitative breakdown of linked administrative justice system data, this before-and-after study demonstrates the beneficial impacts of a First Nations community-controlled adult literacy campaign in six rural and remote communities in New South Wales, Australia. The most significant quantitative finding is a 50% reduction in reported serious offences in a sample of 162 campaign participants. Qualitative data from interviews found an increased use of legal assistance services following the campaign.. These findings are contextualised through the lived experiences and perceptions of First Nations campaign staff and participants, community leaders and government and non-government agency personnel.","PeriodicalId":51781,"journal":{"name":"International Journal for Crime Justice and Social Democracy","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.3,"publicationDate":"2022-05-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88645910","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}