可见缝补、街头缝合和绣花手帕:如何用工艺主义挑战时尚产业

IF 1.8 Q2 CRIMINOLOGY & PENOLOGY
A. McGovern, Clementine Barnes
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引用次数: 0

摘要

当代的“工艺主义”实践——使用编织、缝纫和刺绣等工艺来引起人们对“社会、政治和环境正义问题”的关注(Fitzpatrick 2018: 3)——起源于几个世纪以来的激进工艺工作,尤其是女性和边缘化人群,他们利用工艺来抗议、表明立场或评论与他们有关的问题。最近,手艺人的行动已经瞄准了时尚和纺织行业,以强调和解决全球时尚行业的一些社会和环境影响,从快时尚的一次性文化到成衣工人不道德的工资和工作条件。本文以个人和集体形式的工艺主义为例,探讨了工艺主义不仅是一种动员全球时尚和纺织品的道德使用、消费和生产的手段,也是一种让时尚产业对联合国可持续发展目标所强调的关键问题负责的方式。在游说这些例子,本文认为实用的工艺主义作为一个模式,挑战时尚产业的影响变化。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Visible Mending, Street Stitching, and Embroidered Handkerchiefs: How Craftivism is Being Used to Challenge the Fashion Industry
The contemporary practice of ‘craftivism’—which uses crafts such as knitting, sewing and embroidery to draw attention to ‘issues of social, political and environmental justice’ (Fitzpatrick 2018: 3)—has its origins in centuries of radical craft work where women and marginalised peoples, in particular, have employed crafts to protest, take a stand or comment on issues that concern them. Recently, craftivist actions have targeted the fashion and textile industry in an effort to highlight and address some of the social and environmental impacts of the global fashion industry, from the throwaway culture of fast fashion through to the unethical pay and working conditions of ready-made garment workers. Drawing on examples of both individual and collective forms of craftivism, this paper explores the ways that craftivism is being deployed not only as a means by which to mobilise the ethical use, consumption and production of fashion and textiles across the globe but also to hold the fashion industry to account against key concerns highlighted by the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. In canvassing these examples, the paper considers the utility of craftivism as a model for challenging the fashion industry to effect change.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.70
自引率
7.70%
发文量
50
审稿时长
9 weeks
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