Journal of Coastal Research最新文献

{"title":"Wave Group Effects on Breaker Height on a Uniform Slope","authors":"T. Shand, W. Peirson, R. Cox","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-143.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-143.1","url":null,"abstract":"SHAND, T.D., PEIRSON, W.L. AND COX, R.J., 2007. Wave group effects on breaker height on a uniform slope. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 767 – 772. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The maximum wave height that can be achieved during shoaling is of key importance in the design of coastal structures and the assessment of near shore currents and water levels. Previous investigations, upon which current design guidelines are based, have tended to focus on regular, monochromatic waves thereby neglecting group effects. Studies incorporating random wave testing include these group effects but may require prolonged testing periods to achieve the design condition. The shoaling transformations of wave groups as they progress into shallow water and break has been investigated in laboratory wave flume experiments. The water surface elevations were recorded by capacitance type wave probes. The type and position of breaking was recorded and video imaging used to observe wave kinematics during shoaling and breaking. Results show that the interaction of horizontal (intra-group) and vertical (depth-induced) energy fluxes plays a key role in the shoaling and breaking processes of the wave group. Notably, the evolutional stage of the wave group as it approaches a critical threshold depth facilitates the emergence of two distinct shoaling cases – an early shoaling case and a delayed shoaling case. These distinctive shoaling cases appear to cause significant variation in the wave breaking properties (breaker type and breaking position) and in the maximum depth limited wave heights (Hb/d) observed. In particular, the delayed shoaling case appeared to stabilise the wave groups, delaying breaking and yielding Hb/d ratios in excess of current design guidelines. These preliminary results indicate that current design guidelines based on monochromatic waves may underestimate the ‘worst case’ scenarios associated with wave groupiness with consequent implications for engineering design, coastal modelling and hazard mapping and planning. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Wave group, depth-limited wave breaking, shoaling, wave kinematics","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"11 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365843","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wet Dune Slacks, Sea-level and Coastal Evolution in the South-western Portuguese Façade","authors":"M. C. Freitas, C. Andrade, T. Ferreira, A. Cruces, M. F. Araújo","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-045.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-045.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"43 6","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365950","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Integrated Coastal Zone Management Strategies on Small Islands","authors":"H. Calado, A. Quintela, J. Porteiro","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-025.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-025.1","url":null,"abstract":"CALADO, H., QUINTELA, A. and PORTEIRO, J., 2007 Integrated Coastal Zone Management Strategies on Small Islands. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9 th International Coastal Symposium), 125 - 129. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 In 2002 the European Parliament and Council indicated the general principles and options for an Integrated Coastal Management Strategy for Europe (Recommendation 2002/413/CE). In 2005, due to the lack of contributions by each State member, the European Council invited all the EU countries to establish the ground rules for that strategy by presenting the national efforts on the field and by establishing their one Integrated Coastal Zone Management Strategies (ICZMS). The document had a deadline of February 2006. The National Strategies then presented are now being evaluated. What is proposed in this paper is not a quantitative structured analysis but a comprehensive one applied to small islands. For sure we know that small islands problems and needs are different from the mainland countries. So, is there a true need for ICZM guidelines with a scale and operational contexts often applied to larger territories? Are there specific features to small island ICZM Strategies? Based on the analysis of the Macaronesian Archipelagos of Azores, Madeira and Canary Islands the discussion is presented and some conclusions are drawn.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"30 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365972","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Australian National Surfing Reserves – rationale and process for recognising iconic surfing locations","authors":"Brad Farmer, A. Short","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-020.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-020.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"96 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366146","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dynamics of the Karwar Coast, India, with special reference to study of Tectonics and Coastal Evolution using Remote Sensing Data","authors":"P. T. Hanamgond, D. Mitra","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-157.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-157.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"70 10","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366258","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Influence of an Artificial Channel in a Well-Preserved Sub-Tropical Estuary","authors":"J. J. Barrera-Alba, S. Gianesella, Flávia M. P. Saldanha-Corrêa, G.A.O. Moser","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-206.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-206.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"85 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366376","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Geomorphologic evolution and mobility of sand barriers in the Nakdong estuary, South Korea","authors":"H.S. Yoon, C.I. Yoo, W.B. Na, I.C. Lee, C.R. Ryu","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-070.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-070.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"78 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366566","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Video-derived mapping of estuarine evolution","authors":"B. Morris, G. Coco, K. Bryan, Ian L Turner","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-079.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-079.1","url":null,"abstract":"MORRIS, B.D., COCO, G., BRYAN, K.R. AND TURNER, I.L., 2007. Video-derived mapping of estuarine evolution. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 410 – 414. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Coastal changes are being monitored around Australia and New Zealand using a network of state-of-the-art coastal imaging stations. These systems are being used to build a database of frequent, long-term, spatiallyextensive observations of coastal behaviour across a diverse range of coastal environments. The focus of the research detailed herein is the application of this technology to the investigation of estuarine systems. Boat-based surveying of estuaries is generally both difficult (e.g. shallow mudflats) and time-consuming. The ability to complete regular and repeated surveys within highly dynamic and fast-changing systems is usually limited. In contrast, image-derived methods provide a practical solution. Digital images are analysed to detect successive (hourly) waterlines at measured water levels through a single tidal cycle and then processed to generate intertidal bathymetries. Repeating these ‘virtual’ surveys enables the quantification of key processes such as channel infilling, growth of intertidal mudflats and response of the estuary to extreme forcing events. A particular advantage of this approach is that archived images may be used to complete ‘surveys’ retrospectively. Application of these research techniques are illustrated at two contrasting field sites in Australia and New Zealand. The first is a dynamic and small-scale inlet system dominated by the ingress of beach sediment (Narrabeen Lagoon, Australia) and the second is a large-scale and more slowly evolving mudflat system (Raglan Estuary, New Zealand). Results presented illustrate the practical application of video-derived methods to the monitoring and quantification of estuarine processes and evolution, and provide a unique dataset that can now be used for comparison with model simulations.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"7 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140367773","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Shoreline Change of the Mucuripe Harbour Zones (Fortaleza-Ceará, Northeast of Brazil) 1972 - 2003","authors":"M.O. Bezerra, L. Pinheiro, J.O. Morais","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-210.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-210.1","url":null,"abstract":"BEZERRA, M.O., PINHEIRO, L. and MORAIS, J.O. 2007. Shoreline Change of the Mucuripe Harbour Zones (Fortaleza-Ceará, Northeast of Brazil) 1972 2003. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 1163 – 1167. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 This study analyses the space-time evolution along the Fortaleza coast over the past 31 years (1972-2003) with a special emphasis on the Mucuripe port area (Fortaleza, Ceará, Brazil) examining changes in the coastal dynamics produced by the building of the city’s port. The construction of the port’s jetty interrupted the natural feeding process of the beaches with sediment moving east to west. Sediment was blocked east of this structure leading to an erosion process to the west. This multi-temporal study is based on the analysis of aerial photographs and images from the Quickbird satellite. The objective is to determine the recent evolution of this coastline through calculation of the variation in retrograding and prograding areas. The variation of the city of Fortaleza's dunebeach interface shoreline, which concerns an extension of approximately 30 km of shoreline, revealed a prograding rate of 0.8284 km/31 years (1972/2003) and a retrograding rate of 0.0701 km/31 years (1972/2003). Analysis of images of Mansa Beach, located in the Mucuripe port basin, showed that in 1972 Mansa Beach had an area of 0.13843 km, in 1998 it increased to 0.15307 km and in 2003 it reached 0.15455 km. The analysis revealed that the changes in the shoreline are more subject to shoreline accretion. The analysed period shows a 92% accretion rate and an 8% erosion rate. The results contribute to the improved management of the Fortaleza coast. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Changes in the shoreline, Prograding, Multi-temporal study","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"57 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368068","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Estimation of Anoxic Water Distribution in Hiroshima Bay using Satellite Thermal Image","authors":"Y. Sakuno","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-185.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-185.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"43 19","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368083","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}