{"title":"Applicability of ocean wave measurements based on high-frequency radar systems in an estuary region","authors":"Tomoya Kataoka, Takashi Fujiki","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2275469","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2275469","url":null,"abstract":"The applicability of high-frequency (HF) radar systems for wave measurement in an estuary was explored by extracting the significant wave height (Hsr) using a traditional Barrick equation from the Doppler spectra observed by three radar systems installed in Ise Bay, Japan. The minimum value of Hsr estimated around each grid point was relatively consistent with the wave height observed with a wave gauge/buoy, except for a deterioration of wave measurement accuracy caused by a decrease in seawater conductivity from the freshwater inflow after flooding. Furthermore, the relationship between the accuracy and the signal-to-noise ratios for the first- and second-order peaks (SNR1 and SNR2, respectively) highlighted the difficulty in determining the threshold values of SNRs in the bay. Thus, we suggest the use of Hsr as a criterion for quality control when applying a nonlinear inversion method for estimating ocean wave spectra based on the Bayesian possibility theorem (BIM). Our suggestion is to select the appropriate Doppler spectra and increase the acquisition rates of wave data with low relative error compared to BIMs using SNR1 and SNR2. These results can promote the applicability of the nonlinear inversion in estuary regions.","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":"83 6","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135271775","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tsubasa Kodaira, Tomotaka Katsuno, Takehiko Nose, Motoyo Itoh, Jean Rabault, Mario Hoppmann, Masafumi Kimizuka, Takuji Waseda
{"title":"An affordable and customizable wave buoy for the study of wave-ice interactions: design concept and results from field deployments","authors":"Tsubasa Kodaira, Tomotaka Katsuno, Takehiko Nose, Motoyo Itoh, Jean Rabault, Mario Hoppmann, Masafumi Kimizuka, Takuji Waseda","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2249243","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2249243","url":null,"abstract":"In the polar regions, the interaction between waves and ice has a crucial impact on the seasonal change in the sea ice extent. However, our comprehension of this phenomenon is restricted by a lack of observations, which, in turn, results in the exclusion of associated processes from numerical models. In recent years, availability of the low-cost and accurate Inertial Motion Units has enabled the development of affordable wave research devices. Despite advancements in designing innovative open-source instruments optimized for deployment on ice floes, their customizability and survivability remain limited, especially in open waters. This study presents a novel design concept for an affordable and customizable wave buoy, aimed for wave measurements in marginal ice zones. The central focus of this wave buoy design is the application of 3D printing as rapid prototyping technology. By utilizing the high customizability offered by 3D printing, the previously developed solar-powered wave buoy was customized to install a battery pack to continue the measurements in the high latitudes for more than several months. Preliminary results from field deployments in the Pacific and Arctic Oceans demonstrate that the performance of the instruments is promising. The accuracy of frequency wave spectra measurements is found to be comparable to that of considerably more expensive instruments. Finally, the study concludes with a general evaluation of using rapid prototyping technologies for buoy designs and proposes recommendations for future designs.","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":"39 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136157522","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Projections of future beach loss along the Chinese coastline due to sea level rise","authors":"Shuai Xiao, Keiko Udo, Yi Zhang","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2265683","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2265683","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTBeach loss caused by sea level rise (SLR) has become one of the most severe worldwide issues. China is also affected because of its dense population and developed economy along the long coastline. For a better understanding of the beach loss situation due to future SLR, this study developed a database of beach length and width along the Chinese coast and then projected the future beach loss along the Chinese coastline by using the Bruun rule against future projection datasets (CMIP5/CMIP6) of SLR. The total beach length along the Chinese coastline is 1731.3 km, while Hainan, Guangdong, and Fujian have the most account of sandy beaches, with 34%, 28%, and 15%, respectively. The worst-case projections along Chinese coasts show future beach loss of 61% and 63.7 km2 for the RCP 8.5 scenario, and 71% and 74.9 km2 for the SSP5_8.5 scenario. The difference in beach loss rate projections is 1% between the global sea level rise (GMSLR) for the RCP 8.5/SSP5_8.5 scenario in 2100. Under the worst-case scenario (SSP5_8.5), 43% of the sandy beach coastline will lose all the beaches. Adaptation measures considering the characteristics of each zone are needed for better coastal management.KEYWORDS: Sea level risesandy beachBruun ruleshoreline retreatbeach loss AcknowledgmentsThis study was supported by the Tohoku University-Tsinghua University Collaborative Research Fund.Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationFundingThis work was supported by the Tohoku University-Tsinghua University Collaborative Research Fund.","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135146736","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Coastal adaptation to climate change in Japan: a review","authors":"Fuminori Kato, Yoshimitsu Tajima","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2259187","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2259187","url":null,"abstract":"In parallel with many other countries, the government of Japan has started to tackle coastal adaptations to climate change. In 2020, the national Basic Policy for Coastal Protection was revised to add the statement that coastal management should account for future changes in coastal hydrodynamic conditions due to climate change. Following this policy, the management body of each coast is requested to revise the Basic Plan for Coastal Protection by 2025. This paper first reviews the current legal frameworks and measures of coastal protection and conservation, such as disaster prevention and mitigation against stormy waves, storm surges and tsunamis, beach conservation, and maintenance of coastal protection facilities. Second, the paper outlines the recent actions taken for coastal adaptation to climate change. With example cases in Osaka and Tokyo bays, it is described how design conditions such as design waves and water levels should account for the influence of climate change. It is also described how adaptive beach management should be implemented accounting for projections of future beach changes. Finally, the paper discusses future challenges in coastal adaptation strategies to climate change in Japan, such as introduction of integrated coastal zone management and other potential options that have not been implemented in Japan.","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":"52 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135482086","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Estimation of air-bubble-induced wave height and set-up using representative wave approach","authors":"Md. Nur Hossain, S. Araki","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2246282","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2246282","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47196682","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A numerical model for predicting waves run-up on coastal areas","authors":"H. Karjoun, A. Beljadid","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2236345","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2236345","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46096952","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Y. Androulidakis, C. Makris, Z. Mallios, Y. Krestenitis
{"title":"Sea level variability and coastal inundation over the northeastern Mediterranean Sea","authors":"Y. Androulidakis, C. Makris, Z. Mallios, Y. Krestenitis","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2246286","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2246286","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43877943","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
N. Takagaki, N. Suzuki, K. Iwano, Kazuki Nishiumi, Ryota Hayashi, N. Kurihara, Kosuke Nishitani, Takumi Hamaguchi
{"title":"Fetch effects on air-sea momentum transfer at very high wind speeds","authors":"N. Takagaki, N. Suzuki, K. Iwano, Kazuki Nishiumi, Ryota Hayashi, N. Kurihara, Kosuke Nishitani, Takumi Hamaguchi","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2244751","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2244751","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42177177","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
F. Feddersen, Andreia Amador, Kanoa Pick, A. Vizuet, Kaden Quinn, Eric Wolfinger, J. MacMahan, A. Fincham
{"title":"The wavedrifter: a low-cost IMU-based Lagrangian drifter to observe steepening and overturning of surface gravity waves and the transition to turbulence","authors":"F. Feddersen, Andreia Amador, Kanoa Pick, A. Vizuet, Kaden Quinn, Eric Wolfinger, J. MacMahan, A. Fincham","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2238949","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2238949","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45587483","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Prediction of wave overtopping discharges at coastal structures using interpretable machine learning","authors":"Tae-Yoo Kim, Woo-Dong Lee","doi":"10.1080/21664250.2023.2233312","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2233312","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Appropriate estimation and prediction of wave overtopping discharges are very important in terms of economics, port structure stability, and port operation. In recent years, machine learning (ML) techniques, which predict by finding statistical structures from input/output data using computers, have generated interest. However, as the complexity of ML models increases, interpreting their results becomes increasingly difficult. Interpretation of ML results is an important part in developing an efficient structure design strategy for improved wave overtopping discharge estimation. Therefore, in this study, eight linear/nonlinear ML models were applied to the same data, and a pipeline model for selecting an ML model suitable for data characteristics was developed. In addition, the importance of variables related to the prediction of wave overtopping discharges and their correlations were analyzed by interpretable ML. The research results showed that the extreme gradient boosting model had the highest prediction accuracy and significantly reduced the error. Accordingly, a data-based model can be a new alternative for analyzing the complex physical relationships in the field of coastal engineering and used as a starting point toward structure design and development for coastal disaster prevention.","PeriodicalId":50673,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering Journal","volume":"65 1","pages":"433 - 449"},"PeriodicalIF":2.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47290403","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}