Journal of Material Culture最新文献

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In defense of materiality: Attending to the sensori-social life of things 捍卫物质性:关注事物的感官社会生活
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088501
D. Howes
{"title":"In defense of materiality: Attending to the sensori-social life of things","authors":"D. Howes","doi":"10.1177/13591835221088501","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221088501","url":null,"abstract":"This article presents a defense of the concept of materiality in the face of Tim Ingold’s critique of the concept as part of his “efforts to restore anthropology to life” in Being Alive and elsewhere. While acknowledging the forcefulness of Ingold’s stress on the “liveliness” of materials, and doctrine of perception “as action” (not representation), it critiques the way he neuters the perceiving subject, abstracts the senses, disregards the sensuous pleasures of making, and elides the sensori-social life of things. Three case studies are presented by way of illustration: the sensorial archaeology of perception, the “exuberant materiality” of the Byzantine bas-relief metal icon, and the tactility of “ladies’ craftwork” in the eighteenth and nineteenth century. In place of Ingold’s ideal-typical figures – the rootless wayfarer, the skilled craftsman – this article brings out the situatedness of the human subject within a particular tradition, or sensory and social regime, and how this mediates their construction and perception of things and other persons.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"313 - 335"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45672691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 8
Response to David Howes 对David Howes的回应
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221092084
T. Ingold
{"title":"Response to David Howes","authors":"T. Ingold","doi":"10.1177/13591835221092084","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221092084","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"336 - 340"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45750208","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Pith and power: Colonial style in France and French West Africa 髓与权力:法国和法属西非的殖民风格
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221090603
Victoria L. Rovine
{"title":"Pith and power: Colonial style in France and French West Africa","authors":"Victoria L. Rovine","doi":"10.1177/13591835221090603","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221090603","url":null,"abstract":"Through close analysis of interwar French representations of the pith helmet, both visual and textual, I trace the array of significations to which this single form of material culture was harnessed as it moved between France and Afrique Occidentale Française. Though born of a vulnerability specific to white, European bodies, this headwear's distinctive, recognizable form became an emblem of imperial power for those same bodies. This imperial connotation propelled the helmet into dress practices on the other side of the colonial divide, where West African consumers brought further layers of semantic complexity to this headwear's colonial connotations. A select few West Africans wore pith helmets to signify their status as adjuncts to the French administration, thus extending that power. Others took up the pith helmet in defiance of French sartorial norms, bringing its associations with elite status into their own dress systems. Wherever it appeared, the pith helmet alluded to an elsewhere. In France, the helmet conjured the steamy climate of the colonies; in the colonies this headwear invoked the metropole and its administration of colonial subjects. My analysis demonstrates the complex roles of this key element of colonial material culture, which moved between colony to metropole, both projecting European power and revealing the precarity of that power.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"280 - 312"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-05-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44646096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
The affective economy and fast fashion: Materiality, embodied learning and developing a sensibility for sustainable clothing 情感经济与快时尚:物质性,体现学习和发展可持续服装的情感
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-28 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088524
Joanie Willett, C. Saunders, F. Hackney, Katie Hill
{"title":"The affective economy and fast fashion: Materiality, embodied learning and developing a sensibility for sustainable clothing","authors":"Joanie Willett, C. Saunders, F. Hackney, Katie Hill","doi":"10.1177/13591835221088524","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221088524","url":null,"abstract":"Many commentators recognise the need to make clothing more sustainable due to its deleterious environmental and social ramifications. However, it is challenging to change the consumer behaviour that drives fast fashion markets because people have complex relationships with clothing. In this study, we illustrate how the relationships that people have with clothing can be shaped by workshops that immerse them in making, mending, and modifying garments. Such experiential learning can encourage adoption of more sustainable clothing choices, such as reducing consumption of new garments and prolonging the life of already owned items of clothing. We present findings on a strand of work from the Arts and Humanities Research Council funded S4S: Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing project, which explored the affective economy around clothing, and considered how emotive affects around garments operate as a conduit to self-sustain particular practices. Our significant contribution brings political analysis firmly into the debate about sustainable clothing by merging literatures on behaviour change and affect, through exploration of a novel longitudinal (9-months) qualitative data set. At the start of the project, participants generally thought of clothes as being low-cost (and therefore disposable) items. The workshops, in contrast, presented garments and the materials from which they are made as precious, complex and fluid – in a process of continual possibility. For pro-environmental behavioural change, we find that immersion in the materiality of clothing mobilised affective processes, enabling potentially transformative affective encounters. Further, we found that group learning environments need to do more than simply teach approved normative values and behaviours. Pro-environmental behaviour change initiatives need to provide people with the space to create and situate their own knowledges, enabling affect to be mobilised, activated and supported by appropriate cultural milieu.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"219 - 237"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49345546","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
Making a home in the world: Clothes as mnemonic devices through which refugees experience home in flight and resettlement 在世界上建立一个家:衣服作为记忆装置,难民通过它在逃亡和重新安置中体验家
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-24 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088512
Charlotte D. Schneider
{"title":"Making a home in the world: Clothes as mnemonic devices through which refugees experience home in flight and resettlement","authors":"Charlotte D. Schneider","doi":"10.1177/13591835221088512","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221088512","url":null,"abstract":"How do refugees experience home not just in the country of settlement but also along their journeys of flight? Departing from theories that see home as something which is left behind in displacement, this paper explores how clothes act as important mnemonic devices, storing and archiving memories from different times and places, whilst connecting people to new places en route. Through the in-depth analysis of two refugees’ stories, this paper highlights that home is not a onetime accomplishment but a lived experience that people are continuously involved in, especially in times of upheaval and transformation as they search for a safer place to be in the world. Clothes, as one of the few materials that refugees carry, become central to this lived experience not only as semiotic devices, carrying different narratives of home, but also as sensual materials through which different sensations of home are carried, transformed, and negotiated.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"28 1","pages":"287 - 301"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45980767","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Making masks: The women behind Ghana's nose covering mandate during the COVID-19 outbreak 制作口罩:新冠肺炎爆发期间,加纳口罩规定背后的女性
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086870
Abena Dove Osseo-Asare
{"title":"Making masks: The women behind Ghana's nose covering mandate during the COVID-19 outbreak","authors":"Abena Dove Osseo-Asare","doi":"10.1177/13591835221086870","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221086870","url":null,"abstract":"In 2020, Ghanaians adopted face masks, or “nose masks,” in public places to combat the spread of a novel coronavirus, SARS-CoV-2. Seamstresses and tailors quickly pivoted to manufacture nose masks by April, given the longstanding cottage sewing industry. While the country saw an influx of disposable face masks by the end of the year, cloth mask makers made a significant impact on public health at the start of the pandemic. This article considers how people were able to quickly popularize nose masks in 2020, noting the key role women seamstresses played alongside public leaders, the Ghana Standards Authority, and the police who used punitive punishments and coercive tactics to encourage sustained use as the pandemic continued. It marks one of the first studies on the history and cultural use of nose masks in an African country, comparing their use and adoption to other national mask responses, including those in the United States, Japan, and the Czech Republic.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48453076","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
In memory of future earthquakes: Controversial new form and function of a commemorative statue in 1920s Tokyo 纪念未来的地震:20世纪20年代东京一座有争议的纪念雕像的新形式和功能
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086874
J. Borland
{"title":"In memory of future earthquakes: Controversial new form and function of a commemorative statue in 1920s Tokyo","authors":"J. Borland","doi":"10.1177/13591835221086874","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221086874","url":null,"abstract":"Earthquake memorials dot the Japanese archipelago, marking its long history of destructive tremors. Today, many of these memorials are designed to serve the dual purpose of commemorating victims, and educating future generations. Almost a hundred years ago, however, this idea that a commemorative statue could also serve as a pedagogical tool proved to be novel and controversial. This article focuses on a case study of a memorial dubbed the Statue of Sadness. First unveiled to the public in 1929, the life-like figures of twelve children provoked an outcry. By exploring the conflicting hopes and expectations from the perspective of different stakeholders, I highlight the complicated issues surrounding earthquakes, commemoration, and children. I argue that the new form and function of the statue reflected the emerging desire of Japanese educators and government officials to educate future generations about the risk of earthquakes by reminding them about the tragic deaths of children, not to comfort bereaved families as many hoped. These issues are relevant today for communities endeavouring to construct memorials in order to save lives in the future.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"238 - 258"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48360014","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Money, memory objects and material practices in the everyday conduct of inter-ethnic marriages in Indonesia 印度尼西亚种族间婚姻日常行为中的金钱、记忆对象和物质习俗
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086862
Jony Eko Yulianto, Darrin Hodgetts, Pita King, James H. Liu
{"title":"Money, memory objects and material practices in the everyday conduct of inter-ethnic marriages in Indonesia","authors":"Jony Eko Yulianto, Darrin Hodgetts, Pita King, James H. Liu","doi":"10.1177/13591835221086862","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221086862","url":null,"abstract":"In the context of historical and ongoing tensions between different ethnic groups, inter-ethnic marriages are increasingly prevalent in Indonesia today. This article explores the social materiality of memory objects (money and related household items) in the negotiation of shared lifeworlds within two inter-ethnic marriages between Javanese and Chinese Indonesians. The research is based on detailed fieldwork conducted face-to-face in East Java over a 10 week period, and supported with further online interactions with participating couples. We demonstrate how a focus on money and related material practices can offer new understandings of how couples respond agentively to inter-cultural tensions in their marriages and strive towards harmony. In doing so we demonstrate how values of cooperation and prudence are articulated through things and related practices, and in the process are harnessed to support couples efforts to build mutually supportive lives together. In the process we document how objects, including money, an onion peeling machine and food emerge in these relationships as both practical things and objects of care, cooperation and affection. This research demonstrates that whilst still of crucial importance, a focus on inter-cultural tensions and the conflicts these can cause can be complimented with a focus on couple's agentive efforts to manage and contain such tensions as they build culturally hybrid lives together.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"28 1","pages":"131 - 154"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-03-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45111740","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
Art and anthropology: Twenty-five years of The Traffic in Culture 艺术与人类学:25年的文化交通
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-02-17 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221074151
Karin Zitzewitz, M. Ciotti
{"title":"Art and anthropology: Twenty-five years of The Traffic in Culture","authors":"Karin Zitzewitz, M. Ciotti","doi":"10.1177/13591835221074151","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221074151","url":null,"abstract":"Special issue introduction.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"3 - 9"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-02-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42483426","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Contemporary archaeology in conflict zones: The materiality of violence and the transformation of the urban space in Temuco, Chile during the social outburst 冲突地区的当代考古学:暴力的物质性与社会爆发期间智利特穆科城市空间的转变
IF 0.9 3区 社会学
Journal of Material Culture Pub Date : 2022-02-04 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221074167
Henrik B. Lindskoug, Wladimir Martínez
{"title":"Contemporary archaeology in conflict zones: The materiality of violence and the transformation of the urban space in Temuco, Chile during the social outburst","authors":"Henrik B. Lindskoug, Wladimir Martínez","doi":"10.1177/13591835221074167","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1177/13591835221074167","url":null,"abstract":"We have, during the Latin American spring, studied the material traces of state oppression and social movements in Temuco, Chile, and the transformation of the urban landscape with archaeological surveys. Our results demonstrate alterations in the urban landscape related to both police presence and protesters. Large amounts of teargas-projectiles and rubber bullets indicate strong police presence and repression of different social movements. We have also identified protection and resistance modes in the form of shields, paint bombs, and protective masks, often associated with graffiti's, barricades, and other alterations of the public space. Material vestiges combined with interviews have shown how state institutions have tried to cover up the traces of violence. We argue that archaeology can play a central role in this process and in recording the materiality of these events with the aim to hand over the information to human right associations to prevent state oppression.","PeriodicalId":46892,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Material Culture","volume":"28 1","pages":"63 - 86"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-02-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48759787","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
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