Journal of Design History最新文献_第7页

Marie Neurath: Designing Bilston’s Housing Exhibition Marie Neurath：设计Bilston的住宅展览

IF 0.2 4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-03-11 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac051

P. Pedersen

引用次数: 0

In Between Breaths: Memories, Stories, and Otherwise Design Histories 在呼吸之间:记忆，故事和其他设计历史

4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-03-03 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac038

Sarah Cheang, Katie Irani, Livia Rezende, Shehnaz Suterwalla

引用次数: 0

Fashion and Image as Anthropographic Elements in Nineteenth-century Colombia 时尚与形象:19世纪哥伦比亚的人类学元素

4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac050

Jairo Bermúdez-Castillo, Astrid Barrios Barraza, Claudia Patricia Delgado Osorio, Maristela Verastegui

{"title":"Fashion and Image as Anthropographic Elements in Nineteenth-century Colombia","authors":"Jairo Bermúdez-Castillo, Astrid Barrios Barraza, Claudia Patricia Delgado Osorio, Maristela Verastegui","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epac050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epac050","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article is the product of a research project about the role of image in the creation of the Colombian nation during the nineteenth century. Part of that image depended on the individuals it identified, their social status, their lifestyle, and their occupation. The image of fashion as a characteristic social identifier, as an icon, was a bearer of anthropographic symbols. In nineteenth-century Colombia, those symbols were connected to a republican identity characterized by its colonial heritage, determined by race, and by garments distinctive of specific social classes: formerly subjects and, later, citizens. Thus, the image that fashion conveyed as the “skin of the skin” of the republican ancestors, the elite, and the people constitutes a legacy that encompasses everything, from the manufacture of textiles and the indigenous ruana, to a kind of textile mestizaje with aspects of European provenance. Items from collections in museums, libraries, and archives, were compared to texts composed by travelers and illustrators, in order to unveil elements of national identity in what emerges as the landscape of fashion in Colombia during the nineteenth century.","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135423808","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Picturing National History: Turkey’s Popular Nationalism on the Rise Through the 1950s New Print Culture 描绘民族历史:20世纪50年代新版画文化中土耳其民族主义的兴起

4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac057

Emin Artun Ozguner

{"title":"Picturing National History: Turkey’s Popular Nationalism on the Rise Through the 1950s New Print Culture","authors":"Emin Artun Ozguner","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epac057","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epac057","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article interrogates the role of print culture and visual communication design in the permeation of Turkish national consciousness into everyday practices. It seeks to understand the phenomenon of “banal nationalism,” argued by Michael Billig, in a broader context of cultural production advocated by Tim Edensor. It does this by looking into Turkey’s first liberalization period in the 1950s where a boosting print industry, a standard print language, and high literacy contributed to the daily reproduction of a collective historical past through representations. This period is analyzed through publications like Sunday comic strips, advertorial giveaways, and illustrated history journals that emulate popular American formats in the commodification of history. These are treated as material tools to present and disseminate an imaginary reconciliation of secular modernism with imperial history in a new print culture. This analysis reveals how representations in the foreground of everyday cultural artifacts are used to produce and reproduce difference that designates a distinct national consciousness detached from the realm of state. It also sheds light on the prevalence of identity negotiation and the commoditization of culture in the professionalization of visual communication disciplines in non-Western design paradigms.","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135423809","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

“Thrice Precious Tube!” Negotiating the Visibility and Efficiency of Early Hearing Aids “三次珍贵的导管！”协商早期助听器的可见性和效率

IF 0.2 4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-02-26 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac052

M. Zdrodowska

{"title":"“Thrice Precious Tube!” Negotiating the Visibility and Efficiency of Early Hearing Aids","authors":"M. Zdrodowska","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epac052","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epac052","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 In the nineteenth century, acoustic hearing aids (such as ear trumpets or conversation tubes) became ubiquitous attributes of deaf people from polite society. These prostheses were a visible sign of otherwise invisible deafness. Although some deaf people used hearing aids openly and proudly, and constantly attempted to convince others that using them was nothing to be ashamed of, others wanted to hide these stigmatizing devices. Therefore, they were equally (or even more) concerned with their visibility than with their performance when buying these devices. For this reason, manufacturers tried to design instruments to meet the needs of their customers.\u0000 This article investigates two design strategies that were used by ear trumpet producers to maneuver between the troubling visibility of these instruments and their performance: the first is hypervisibility—designing hearing aids as luxurious objects of conspicuous consumption; the second is invisibility, which was achieved with miniaturization and camouflage. Both these aesthetic strategies are considered in the context of Victorian technophilia and regimes of the body. As hearing aids became more accessible to the middle class, design patterns spread beyond elite consumption.","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-02-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42492164","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Special Issue of the Journal of Design History: Design History and Digital Material Culture 设计历史杂志特刊:设计历史与数字物质文化

IF 0.2 4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-02-22 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac059

Anna K Talley

引用次数: 0

Plastic MatterPlastic Legacies: Pollution, Persistence, and Politics 塑料遗产:污染、持久性和政治

4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-01-28 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac054

Damla Tonuk

引用次数: 0

Designing Modern Japan 设计现代日本

4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2023-01-24 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac053

Michelle L Hauk

引用次数: 0

Balenciaga, licensee of Maison Vionnet 巴黎世家，Vionnet之家的授权商

IF 0.2 4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2022-12-05 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac046

Ana Balda

{"title":"Balenciaga, licensee of Maison Vionnet","authors":"Ana Balda","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epac046","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epac046","url":null,"abstract":"Cristóbal Balenciaga’s initial period in Spain (1917–1936), when he was working to develop himself as a couturier and consolidate his business in the luxury sector, is less known than his Parisian period (1937–1968), due to the scarcity of available information. This article analyses the designer as a buyer of haute couture licenses during that initial period. His biographers claim that in the early years of his professional development Balenciaga would attend to the presentations of prestigious French Maisons where he acquired pieces that he later sold in his establishment in San Sebastián, and that he studied to improve his own technique. Among these Maisons is that of Madeleine Vionnet. However, the restrictive licensing policy applied by the French couturière, puts in doubt the idea that Balenciaga had once been authorized to acquire pieces from her collections. Based on research in the archives of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris and the Archives de Paris, and in the Spanish, French and North American press published between 1920 and 1930, this article provides new findings that confirm the existence of just such a commercial relationship. It reveals when it emerged, specifies which Vionnet pieces Balenciaga acquired and studies the influence of Vionnet’s technique and aesthetics on some of the Basque couturier’s creations prior to his establishment in Paris.","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-12-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138512361","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Craftworkers in Nineteenth-Century Scotland: Making and Adapting in an Industrial Age 19世纪苏格兰的工匠:工业时代的制作与适应

IF 0.2 4区艺术学

Journal of Design History Pub Date : 2022-11-16 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac044

T. Fisher

引用次数: 0