Alejandra Albarán Vega, Virgínia Tiradentes Souto, Ana Mansur de Oliveira
{"title":"Design de vestuário: estudo de caso das camisetas utilizadas em manifestações políticas no Brasil e na Colômbia entre 2012 e 2016","authors":"Alejandra Albarán Vega, Virgínia Tiradentes Souto, Ana Mansur de Oliveira","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15362022140","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15362022140","url":null,"abstract":"As camisetas tornaram-se parte de momentos importantes da moda, revelando-se como uma “bandeira” de conceitos e formas de pensar sobre determinados temas na sociedade. Nas manifestações políticas, elas ocuparam um lugar relevante como forma de divulgar o apoio ou o rechaço a uma temática significativa que teria potencial para afetar uma comunidade, alguns grupos específicos ou um país. Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo analisar o design das camisetas como veículo de mensagens em manifestações políticas. Para tanto, foi feito um estudo de caso das camisetas em manifestações políticas na Colômbia e no Brasil no período de 2012 a 2016. Uma proposta de análise no uso das camisetas é apresentada, com quatro aspectos principais: tipográficos, uso da cor, simbologia e discurso. Os resultados demonstram a importância do design para influenciar a tomada de decisão, além das semelhanças e diferenças dos dois casos analisados e como o elã no discurso ajuda a fortalecer e transformar uma mensagem gerando novas formas de abordagem, dessa forma impactando o cenário a sua volta.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"18 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132504059","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Industrial sewing as a creative resource in the clothing Surface Design project","authors":"Anabela Abreu, M. S. Menezes","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022249","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022249","url":null,"abstract":"The production of clothing has several operational steps, such as industrial sewing, which is used on textile surfaces as a materialization resource, that is, the union of two or more layers of fabrics by sewing points that makes the object tridimensional. In this context, the research seeks to explore the possibilities of industrial sewing to be considered as a creative resource to generate innovative surfaces in clothing, anchored on three pillars: in the design approaches of Surface Design, in the technical aspects of industrial sewing and in characteristics of materials textiles. For this, an exploratory investigation was carried out, with application of experiments using four straight industrial sewing techniques in three grammages of fabrics. The results were categorized through the effects obtained on the surfaces as graphic, structural and graphic structural function, demonstrating to be a creative resource that can be explored at the beginning of the design of clothing products.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121902719","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Textile materiality in the graduation of the fashion designer","authors":"Aline Moreira Monçores, D. Spada","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022203","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022203","url":null,"abstract":"The text presents a methodological experience lived in a Fashion Design course in the city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, made with students from the last semester during the development of their conclusion projects. It presents the study of a tool for the creative process and some results obtained. The text also reflects on the importance of textile material as a creative element and not just as a means for clothing","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"340 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127578062","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Cássia Cristina Dominguez Santana, Alberto Ricardo Pessoa
{"title":"Illustrated Sustainability","authors":"Cássia Cristina Dominguez Santana, Alberto Ricardo Pessoa","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022185","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022185","url":null,"abstract":"Brazil is a strong representative of world production in the textile sector. The fashion industry has economic benefits for the country, however it is responsible for negative impacts on the environment. In the search for sustainable alternatives, concepts and techniques emerge that aim to mitigate the impacts caused by the growing demand, including zero waste disposal. Fashion illustration is an area of fashion that has gained greater visibility, and presents concepts, meanings and symbologies through graphics. This article approaches fashion illustration as a way to disseminate reflections on the zero disposal of textile waste. Thus, it presents illustrations that give new meaning to waste, inserting in its graphic composition textile elements arising from the construction of fashion artifacts. Therefore, the illustrations can be explored through reflective symbologies providing contributions to a cleaner and more sustainable fashion.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"44 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117115280","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ana Cláudia de Abreu, Marizilda dos Santos Menezes
{"title":"A costura industrial como recurso criativo no projeto de Design de Superfícies do vestuário","authors":"Ana Cláudia de Abreu, Marizilda dos Santos Menezes","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022220","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022220","url":null,"abstract":"A produção dos produtos do vestuário conta com várias etapas operacionais como por exemplo a costura industrial que é emprega nas superfícies têxteis como recurso de materialização, ou seja, a união de duas ou mais camadas de tecidos por meio de pontos de costura que tridimensionalizam o objeto. Neste contexto, a pesquisa busca explorar as possibilidades da costura industrial para ser considerada como um recurso criativo para gerar superfícies inovadoras em vestuário, ancoradas em três pilares: nas abordagens projetuais do Design de Superfícies, nos aspectos técnicos da costura industrial e nas características dos materiais têxteis. Para isso, foi realizada uma investigação exploratória, com aplicações de experimentos por meio de quatro técnicas de costura industrial reta em três gramaturas de tecidos. Os resultados foram categorizados por meio dos efeitos obtidos nas superfícies como gráfica, estrutural e gráfica estrutural, demonstrando ser um recurso criativo que pode ser explorado no início do projeto de produtos do vestuário.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"142 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129785726","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Palestras sobre um sistema de moda e têxtil sustentável: uma análise qualitativa dos stakeholders","authors":"Martina Motta","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022097","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022097","url":null,"abstract":"Uma das muitas maneiras de descrever o sistema de moda italiano, é aquela que o define como a ação e interação das pessoas no processo de fazer: em seus artefatos, conhecimento, expertise reside a essência e o motor da indústria da moda. Na contemporaneidade, impulsionados pela mudança em direção à sustentabilidade, os designers estão trabalhando em conjunto com agricultores, processadores de matéria-prima, artesãos, fabricantes de roupas, fabricantes, varejistas e, quanto mais eles estão envolvidos e familiarizados com eles, mais podem intervir para trazer mudança e inovação para um futuro melhor e sustentável. Os fornecedores são os lugares onde a sustentabilidade acontece e, além disso, com seus esforços de décadas, recursos preciosos para aprender. O artigo relata uma investigação qualitativa sobre a cadeia de suprimentos da moda italiana, com o objetivo de detectar os pontos quentes onde a interação humana entre fabricantes e designers está promovendo práticas, processos e produtos sustentáveis.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"102 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116192660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Sbordone, R. Sanches, Alessandra De Luca, Carmela Ilenia Amato
{"title":"Capability based-approach: re-Invent people and materials viable relationships","authors":"M. Sbordone, R. Sanches, Alessandra De Luca, Carmela Ilenia Amato","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022018","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022018","url":null,"abstract":"Sustainability as an approach to the contemporary textile and fashion design; not only linked to the environmental vision but concerning the economy, respect for people's work and production. “A new dominant social paradigm (DSP) would focus on creating apparel products that are more efficient in material use, production and consumer utility, as well as better meeting the human needs of the consumer base, inherently more social than material needs. Similarly, clothing education in the dominant new social paradigm would promote the development of skills that would most likely include understanding human needs and ecosystem limitations, working collaboratively with the market rather than trying to dominate it and an understanding of local culture and tradition \" (LeHew, 2011).","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"27 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125948964","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Talks On A Sustainable Fashion And Textile System: A Qualitative Analysis On Stakeholders","authors":"M. Motta","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022129","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022129","url":null,"abstract":"One of the many ways to describe the Italian fashion system, is the one that defines it as the action and interaction of people in the process of making: on their artifacts, knowledge, expertise relies the essence and the engine of the fashion industry. In the contemporary time, driven by the shift towards sustainability, designers are working together with farmers, raw material processers, artisans, garment makers, manufacturers, retailers, and the more they are involved in and familiar with them, the more they can intervene to bring change and innovation towards a better and sustainable future. Suppliers are the places where sustainability happens, and moreover, with their decades-long efforts, precious resources to learn from.\u0000The article reports a qualitative investigation on the Italian fashion supply chain, with the aim to detect the hot spots where human interaction among manufacturers and designers is fostering sustainable practices, processes, products.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131150300","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashion Confronting Unrelated Sectors: The Ideal Model of Manufacturing Symbiosis Between Industrial Systems","authors":"M. Sbordone, B. Pizzicato, G. Montagna, S. Seixas","doi":"10.5965/1982615x15352022079","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022079","url":null,"abstract":"This study aims to reflect on a possible symbiosis between the fashion system and unrelated companies focused on reducing textile waste. Recent developments in the fashion system, in terms of the organizational network, highlight the importance of collaboration, or vice versa of competition enhancement mechanisms. The highly innovative and creative skills and tasks concentrate much of the value in the creation phase, characteristic of emerging sectors such as creative ones. The methodology will be carried out through a review of the reference literature, with a critical, constructive, and real analysis on strategies for the construction of this symbiosis. It is expected to contribute to a reflection on the development of collaboration and cooperation skills in an interdisciplinary, or even transdisciplinary approach, for the training and preparation of fashion design professionals, requiring a greater commitment from Academia in the creation of interactions and interrelationships with still very different disciplinary sectors.","PeriodicalId":417966,"journal":{"name":"ModaPalavra e-periódico","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125428942","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}