{"title":"Behind 11 million likes: Sustainable fashion on Instagram ‐ A critical analysis of actors and discourses on fashion, sustainability and social change","authors":"K. Vladimirova","doi":"10.1386/sft/0006_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0006_1","url":null,"abstract":"Social media has become an indispensable part of the daily lives of billions of people globally and, among its many functions, provides online space for conversations about socially important topics. Sustainability dimensions of the fashion system is a growing area of public interest,\u0000 both in terms of production and consumption practices. This study explores online conversations about sustainable fashion on Instagram and maps the ongoing discourse in terms of actors, themes and views of social change that is required to achieve more sustainability in the fashion system.\u0000 Instagram is a photo-sharing app owned by Facebook and a social media network of choice of the Millennial and Gen Z women, who are also main consumers of fast fashion, which makes it the perfect source of data for discourse analysis. Using the CrowdTangle tool, the 500 most influential Instagram\u0000 posts that contained references to sustainable fashion from March 2020 to February 2021 were analysed. The analysis revealed that Instagram discourse on sustainable fashion is dominated by product-promoting messages from brands that communicate directly using their accounts or via collaborations\u0000 with influencers. While the discourse is polycentric and there are many actors behind the most influential posts, the most numerous communications are from two brands: H&M (@hm) and Reliance Polyester (@r.elan.official). In terms of discussions about social change, these conversations\u0000 were present almost exclusively in non-sponsored posts of influencers, media, industry associations and non-profit organizations. Social change is discussed in relation to the production side of the fashion system, including nuanced reflections on the role of systemic racism and poverty in\u0000 fashion supply chains, moving towards local production and using new business models to scale down. However, the main emphasis in references to social change is on consumers’ actions and choices rather than on systemic change: buying less and refusing fast fashion, switching to second\u0000 hand and using garments for longer.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"43 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115250667","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"How to wear happiness: Impact of wearing clothing labelled sustainable or fast fashion on subjective well-being","authors":"Catriona Tassell, Aurore Bardey, Anke Schat","doi":"10.1386/sft/0004_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0004_1","url":null,"abstract":"This experiment aims to measure the psychological impact of wearing (un)sustainable clothing on emotions. Baseline levels of subjective well-being in a sample (N = 39) were used to allocate participants to conditions: Group 1: wearing plain T-shirts; Group 2: wearing ‘sustainable’\u0000 T-shirts and Group 3: wearing ‘unsustainable’ T-shirts. Analysis showed statistically significant differences in positive (H(2) = 11.600, p = 0.003) and negative (H(2) = 20.046, p < 0.001) feelings. Participants wearing sustainable clothing felt more\u0000 positive (Median [Mdn] = 26) than participants wearing unsustainable clothing (Mdn = 20, p = 0.002). Participants wearing unsustainable clothing felt more negative (Mdn = 15) than participants wearing sustainable clothing (Mdn = 7, p < 0.001) and\u0000 participants wearing a plain T-shirt (Mdn = 8, p = 0.004). This study highlights the existence of a relationship between what we wear and how we feel, reinforcing the importance of knowing the source of our clothing.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"6 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127865444","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Rescuing textile waste: Q&A with Dr Christina Dean, founder and board chair, Redress","authors":"Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas","doi":"10.1386/sft/0007_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0007_7","url":null,"abstract":"Environmental pollution caused by textile waste is an increasing and urgent issue for the global fashion industry. Redress is a pioneering NGO working since 2007 to minimize fashion’s negative impacts and promote a more sustainable industry through circular economy practices including\u0000 zero-waste design and upcycling. In this interview, Professor Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas of the British School of Fashion invites Redress Founder Dr Christina Dean to share insights into their innovative industry, consumer and education initiatives including the Redress Design Award, the world’s\u0000 largest sustainable fashion competition and a new luxury social impact business The R-Collective accelerating sustainability and circularity by rescuing, reusing and recycling luxury and premium waste materials.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130338078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}