International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles最新文献

{"title":"Upcycling for sustainability: Q&A with Yolande Klaassen, founder and CEO, Revive Clothing Lab","authors":"G. Roberts","doi":"10.1386/sft_0015_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_0015_7","url":null,"abstract":"Upcycling is now a well-established business model in the sustainable fashion sector. French company Revive (https://www.reviveclothinglab.com/) is an excellent example of this trend. Founded in 2020 by entrepreneur\u0000 Yolande Klaassen, the Lille-based company gives retailers’ unsold inventory a second life. Although it was launched at a difficult time economically, Revive has already operated pop-up stores in several branches of the French luxury department store Le Printemps, as part of that retailer’s\u0000 circular fashion initiative. The company is now an important part of Fashion Green Hub, the sustainable fashion association based in Roubaix, the birthplace of France’s fashion industry. In this interview, Klaassen explains the circumstances that led her to found her company. More specifically,\u0000 she shares her insights into the challenges of going to market in the middle of a pandemic, as well as the opportunities provided by recent French anti-waste legislation.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"22 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127233670","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"For waste’s sake: Stakeholder mapping of circular economy approaches to address the growing issue of clothing textile waste","authors":"T. Brydges, C. Henninger, Eri Amasawa, M. Hanlon, Celina Jones","doi":"10.1386/sft_0010_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_0010_1","url":null,"abstract":"By now, it is well established that the fashion industry faces several social and environmental sustainability issues, including the growing problem of clothing textile waste. In recent years, the concept of circular economy (CE) has been put forth as a solution to drive the industry\u0000 towards a more sustainable future, including as a strategy to reduce clothing textile waste. However, currently there is a gap in our understanding of how circular approaches are enacted by different stakeholders and if/how stakeholders are working together, especially when it comes to post-consumer\u0000 clothing textile waste. To remedy this gap, this conceptual article draws on a wide range of secondary resources to propose a conceptual framework based on stakeholder mapping. The framework aims to help understand who is responsible for post-consumer textile waste and how they interact and\u0000 work together, driven by three key questions: where do responsibility(ies) lie in addressing the growing challenge of textile waste, what actions are currently being taken across supply chains and stakeholders to address textile waste and what are the opportunities and challenges in conceptualizing\u0000 CE practices through a stakeholder mapping approach? In exploring actions across four key stakeholder groups (policy-makers, fashion industry, clothing textile recyclers and actors from the not-for-profit sector), the need for engagement and collaboration across stakeholders, investment in\u0000 recycling technology and infrastructure, and policy leadership are identified as key challenges facing the industry as it seeks to redress social and environmental challenges.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"22 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132655228","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Slow fashion and sustainable entrepreneurship: A case study evaluation of the micro-factory model","authors":"B. Trippeer, H. Gam","doi":"10.1386/sft_0014_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_0014_1","url":null,"abstract":"A growing number of studies in sustainable fashion suggest that small-scale manufacturers have begun to gain momentum as a viable strategy for sustainable apparel development. Some of these smaller organizations have turned to a ‘micro-factory’ model, in which localized,\u0000 vertically oriented operations allow for more control over the supply chain and development. Others have chosen to focus on ‘slow-fashion’ models, which emphasize value, such as quality over quantity, as the means of achieving sustainable development goals. This article evaluates\u0000 the case study of an American south-west based micro-factory, which utilizes slow-fashion methodologies, against the current literature. This study aims to see if the micro-factory framework is a viable alternative business strategy of sustainable entrepreneurship that could be incorporated\u0000 into the fashion design curriculum. The case study documentation, a blend of interviews and observations, was guided by Brush’s model (1992) of female entrepreneurship. The data analysis identified opportunities and challenges in practising the micro-factory model in women’s performance\u0000 apparel clothing through a slow-fashion model. Based on this research, the authors propose the framework of the micro-factory as one alternative to meet the needs of apparel design product development. This research indicates successful approaches to sustainable design and production and tertiary\u0000 elements involved in sustainability, such as mental health and financial well-being, identified as benefits of the slow-fashion approach.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"76 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127473867","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The approach to circular fashion design: An exploration of designing for otherways[project]","authors":"Sabine Lettmann","doi":"10.1386/sft_0011_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_0011_1","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this article is to provide information about the approach to developing circular fashion collections concepts built from scratch. I documented my approach to design my collection otherways[project], launched in 2020, to understand and analyse the challenges and\u0000 barriers stemming from applying circular design strategies. Current literature highlights organizational but also individual factors as instrumental in hindering the transition from a linear industry into a new one that embraces the circular economy as a solution to tackle environmental and\u0000 societal issues. Bridging the various design stages and production, fashion designers play a major role for the urgent industry shift. However, limited time availability and a lack of knowledge and guidance often influence the adoption of new skills that can foster circular fashion design.\u0000 To address this, I exemplarily applied circular design strategies and used reflective practice as a research method to analyse the technical as well as the cognitive impact of designing for a closed-loop business model. By using a visual diagram of a core loop with four additional satellites\u0000 to map my design decisions against, I identified opportunities of designing with a circular strategy affecting all aspects from material sourcing to collection production and distribution, repair, reuse/closing the loop. The consideration of external factors such as customers (here users)\u0000 enriches the value of circular design; hence, I conducted a free pilot with five users to test the effectiveness of my prototype collection. Open-ended questionnaires revealed their experience of wearing a garment of their choice and enabled a user-centric iteration process resulting in improving\u0000 my collection for lease. Flexibility and systems thinking were main internal factors that I defined as essential for creating my circular collection concept alongside expanding the designer’s role from garment developer to facilitator of closed fashion loops.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123637668","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Design for circularity through Aesthetic Surgery","authors":"Louise Ravnløkke, Ulla Ræbild","doi":"10.1386/sft_0012_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_0012_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article introduces the term Aesthetic Surgery as a strategy for the designer to contribute to circular economy. Our aim is to discuss this strategy as a way for designers to employ their core competencies to create and innovate the potential of irrelevant materials (waste) through\u0000 aesthetic means and a material-driven design process. We argue that designers have the skills and experience to seek opportunities in unwanted materials and keep them in a loop of relevance and at a high value. In recent years, mechanical recycling has been gaining footing in the industry.\u0000 Recycling has, therefore, primarily been concerned with material recovery at fibre level. This can appear to be an easy way to continue business as usual. Yet, this approach is not suitable for all types of materials and material blends and requires further innovation to develop solutions\u0000 for these situations. Furthermore, these recycling methods use external resources in the process of bringing the material to a point zero and do not utilize the existing parts, components and material qualities. At the same time, sustainable transition requires a break with traditions of large\u0000 volume productions and fast fashion. Therefore, we argue that we need to broaden the understanding and perspective of recycling and upcycling. The research presented in this article explores fashion and textiles methods of working with aesthetics by proposing Aesthetic Surgery as a material-driven\u0000 design strategy for recycling and upcycling. Working with aesthetics is well known as a powerful means to create desires and spark imaginations, in this article we suggest turning the attention towards these powerful aesthetic competencies to substantiate the potential of irrelevant (waste)\u0000 materials. The discussion emerging from this practice-based research offers the potential to further explore the possibilities in design for circularity through an Aesthetic Surgery strategy which may empower designers to contribute to circular economy.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131847382","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Circular economy in fashion and textiles","authors":"Debbie Moorhouse","doi":"10.1386/sft_0009_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_0009_2","url":null,"abstract":"This second issue of the International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles (SFT) is presented as a themed issue on the circular economy relating to the fashion and textile industries. Now widely accepted that the largely current linear model of take‐make‐-dispose\u0000 within the fashion and textile industry is no longer sustainable, brands and researchers are looking at innovative new ways of producing fashion and textile items which embrace circular economy principles. Extending the life of any product reduces the depletion of natural resources and consequently\u0000 reduces the amount of waste produced contributing to a more sustainable society. After another overwhelming response to the call for papers for this themed issue on the circular economy, five research articles were decided to be published along with an industry interview by an independent\u0000 sustainable designer as well as a book review on circular fashion.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121122906","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Love letters to Patagonia: Fostering sustainable consumption via consumer‐brand relationships","authors":"C. Singh, H. Park, Cosette M. Joyner Martinez","doi":"10.1386/sft/0003_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0003_1","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this study was to investigate how consumers’ meaningful experiences with an apparel brand’s quality products can result in a strong consumer‐brand relationship, fostering product longevity and sustainable consumption behaviours. Consumer‐brand\u0000 relationship theory was used as a theoretical lens to examine consumer‐brand relationships developed via the use of a brand’s quality products. In this analysis, an outdoor apparel brand, Patagonia, was selected as a representative brand because of its effort to deliver quality\u0000 products and initiatives to foster meaningful consumer‐brand relationships and sustainable consumption. Netnography, an interpretive analysis of online textual discourse, was used to collect the consumers’ essays from Patagonia’s website. These essays were about the consumers’\u0000 experiences with Patagonia products. The essays were analysed using a theory-driven content analysis based on the consumer‐brand relationship theory. Results revealed six types of consumer‐brand relationships with three dominant relationships, including ‘partner quality’,\u0000 ‘love and passion’ and ‘interdependence’. It was also found that a strong relationship with the brand positively affects consumers’ emotional attachment with the brand’s products, reducing the disposal of garments and resulting in product longevity. Theoretically,\u0000 this study furthers our understanding of the relationship that consumers develop with a sustainable apparel brand by providing empirical evidence about the formation of product attachment in the context of the consumer‐brand relationship. The findings also offer managerial suggestions\u0000 to apparel brands by providing insights into how to develop a meaningful, persistent consumer‐brand relationship in a sustainability context.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"267 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122180454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"When mortality knocks: Pandemic-inspired attitude shifts towards sustainable clothing consumption in six countries","authors":"S. Iran, Cosette M. Joyner Martinez, K. Vladimirova, Stephan Wallaschkowski, Sonali Diddi, C. Henninger, H. McCormick, K. Matus, K. Niinimäki, M. Sauerwein, Renu Singh, Loredana Tiedke","doi":"10.1386/sft/0002_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0002_1","url":null,"abstract":"Unsustainable clothing consumption patterns, especially prevalent in the Global North, have come to the spotlight of media, policy-makers and the academic community in recent years. Recently, the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted the routine lives of citizens globally, which has impacted\u0000 some consumers’ attitudes towards fashion and consumption practices. This study employs terror management theory and voluntary simplicity to explore the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on consumers’ attitudes towards clothing consumption across six different countries, from the\u0000 Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe and North America. A structured qualitative study with closed, open-ended and multiple-choice questions was completed by a sample of consumers (N = 3748) across these countries. Among all participants of this study one-third reported that the pandemic\u0000 had affected their attitude towards clothing and this study was mainly conducted to investigate the nature of those attitude changes. Qualitative analysis identified patterns of change in consumers’ attitude towards clothing (e.g., minimalism, grateful mindset, conscious mindset, decreased\u0000 fashion desire, longevity and style confidence), which reveal potential for a lasting shift towards more sustainable consumption patterns. The results of this study highlight valuable managerial implications: the industry needs to respond to this shift in consumers’ attitude and move\u0000 towards more sustainable business models and processes. Sufficiency-oriented business offerings, in particular, are becoming more accepted in the fashion industry. Moreover, these results are relevant for predicting future consumption patterns, especially considering that pandemics may become\u0000 a more regular part of life.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"50 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124585294","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sustainability in fashion and textiles","authors":"Debbie Moorhouse","doi":"10.1386/sft/0001_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0001_2","url":null,"abstract":"This first issue of the International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles (SFT) presents a collection of five research articles, an industry interview and a book review, dedicated to the field of sustainable fashion and textiles, ethically made, retail and consumption and education. Positioning itself from both an academic research and industry practitioners’ perspective, the journal aims to provide a platform to raise awareness of issues within the fashion industry and the need for innovation. Articles for this first issue from international academics and industry professionals cover pertinent topics such as textile waste reduction, concepts to change attitudes towards more sustainable clothing consumption and well-being as a catalyst for change.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"109 6 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128733049","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Holistically embracing mindfulness: Enriching slow fashion for enhanced well-being","authors":"Hayley Alyce Thompson","doi":"10.1386/sft/0005_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0005_1","url":null,"abstract":"This research explores slow fashion in relation to its capacity to holistically embrace mindfulness in order to enrich the sustainable approach to fashion for enhanced well-being. Slow fashion seems to embrace a concept at the heart of mindfulness practice: awareness. Mindfulness is\u0000 a state of awareness that involves accepting a clear focus on present realities. The emerging phenomenon of mindfulness is developing as a potential force for cultural change. The current predominant fashion system supports growth-focused, fast fashion, which has been destructive to environmental\u0000 and human well-being. Existing scholarly discourse has identified the urgency for a significant cultural shift to alternative approaches, resulting in the emergence of a sustainable and ethical fashion space. Slow fashion, within this space, is considered through a lens of mindfulness as a\u0000 conceptual framework for both practices within a fashion context. The research aims to examine key components of the two movements and discuss how the practices unite or vary and the implications of their union within the fashion system. A close examination revealed a further intertwined relationship,\u0000 identifying select components of mindfulness that contradict elements of slow fashion and other components theoretically congruent with slow fashion criteria. Slow fashion has the capacity for a more conscious and holistic embrace involving the theory and practice of mindfulness. In doing\u0000 so, an enriched slow fashion approach, encompassing design, production and consumption, would be enabled within the current fashion system to improve outcomes for the environment and human well-being amongst the wider community. Critically, an alignment between slowness and mindfulness intrinsically\u0000 guides us towards a collective consciousness of each other, our interconnection with the environment and our internal and external realities, signifying strength in connecting interdisciplinary theories that unite in methods and mindsets that may allow thriving within natural limits.","PeriodicalId":417353,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles","volume":"30-31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117190362","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}