{"title":"‘New’, ‘modern’ and ‘fake’. Embodying different standards of quality in ‘non-precious jewel’ manufacturing in Northern Italy during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries","authors":"Barbara Bettoni","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273172","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"93 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-12-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138600161","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Towards a bourgeois public sphere of consumption: the language of consumption as found in auction advertisements in late eighteenth-century Paris (1760–1778)","authors":"Charris De Smet","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273171","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273171","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTThis article revisits the world of goods of late eighteenth-century Parisian households through the lens of auction advertisements which offer a unique and challenging view on early-modern material culture and consumption. The advertisements' relative disadvantages are outweighed by the presence of additional layers of information such as the appearance of descriptive adjectives that associate these objects with broader concepts of value. In order to explore the potential of these sources for re-examining the question whether a ‘bourgeois public sphere of consumption' guided by ‘notions of civic equality' was arising in eighteenth-century France, this case study has looked at the evolution of Parisian auction advertisements between 1760 and 1778, focusing on three elements: the objects featured in the advertisements, the social distribution of auctioned estates and the descriptions given to the advertised goods as they often convey sensibilities other than those expressed by inventories. The findings reveal the presence of a hybrid consumer model, in which bourgeois and aristocratic households displayed increasingly converging consumer habits, an evolution that was, moreover, accompanied by an advertising discourse that gradually shifted from being based on elite-based, distinction-promulgating aesthetic values to emphasising more bourgeois and middling sorts’ sets of consumer values of quality-consciousness and prudence.KEYWORDS: Material cultureconsumer revolutionauctionsadvertisingenlightenmentFrance AcknowledgementsThe author thanks Natacha Coquery, the guest editors of this special issue and the anonymous peer reviewers for reading and commenting on earlier drafts of this paper.Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s ).Notes1 Blondé and Ryckbosch, “Material Cultures,” 184.2 McKendrick, Brewer, and Plumb, The Birth of a Consumer Society, 19–22 and 31.3 Blondé and Ryckbosch, “Material Cultures,” 183.4 Roche, “Vingt ans après,” 27.5 See for a recent and nuanced reappraisal of the works of Daniel Roche: Kwass, The Consumer Revolution, 6–7 and 105.6 Roche, People of Paris, 128.7 Roche, History of Everyday Things, 2–5.8 See for a comprehensive overview of the existing literature on the political consequences of the early-modern consumer revolution: Kwass, The Consumer Revolution, chapter 7.9 Pardaillhé-Galabrun, Naissance de l’intime; Roche, Histoire des choses banales; Coquery, Tenir boutique.10 Blondé and De Laet, “New and Old Luxuries,” 51.11 De Munck and Lyna, “Locating and Dislocating Value,” 9. For a more elaborate discussion and overview of the historiography of the concept of ‘regimes of value’ originating in the work of Arjun Appadurai see: Murakami, “Materiality, Regimes of Value,” 60–1.12 The method of distant reading applied in this study consisted of a quantitative content analysis, counting the occurrences of objects and their material finishes that have been identified by existing s","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":" 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135192999","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Between aesthetics and a culture of decency. A comparative analysis of the vocabularies of consumption on the secondary markets of eighteenth-century Amsterdam and Antwerp","authors":"Bruno Blondé, Jeroen Kole, Bas Spliet","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273173","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273173","url":null,"abstract":"While detailed accounts of ownership patterns of material culture buttress major narratives on the critical consumer transitions of the late early modern era, still surprisingly little is known about the specific consumer mentalities that went along with the rapidly expanding empire of goods. On the basis of newspaper advertisements for auctions of household estates in Amsterdam and Antwerp, this contribution maps the language of consumption on the high-end secondary markets. Unsurprisingly the language of consumption in both (former) commercial metropoles evolved as the eighteenth century progressed, with product qualities such as ‘modern’ gaining in prominence. Yet, strange as it may seem, the boundaries between the mentalities of new, affordable luxuries and traditional old luxuries were by no means clear-cut. Moreover, in Antwerp as well as in Amsterdam, it was first and foremost the aesthetics of the rich material culture that were invoked to lure potential customers to an auction. Even though both societies were marked by a rather frugal and commercially oriented mentality, the elitist vocabulary of consumption relied heavily on ‘taste’ formation, hence contributing to the rising material inequalities that marked the eighteenth century.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"2018 18","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135813578","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"<i>Nostrana, frustra, fiorata</i> : migration patterns and the semantics of consumption in the Alps, mid-17th to late 18th centuries","authors":"Riccardo Rossi","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273168","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2273168","url":null,"abstract":"Labour migrants were a widespread phenomenon in the Alps during the early modern period and impacted the materiality of everyday life in the mountains. This article investigates traces of these movements in linguistic usage by exploring the way in which goods were described by actors from the Three Leagues, in present-day Switzerland and Italy. Provenances of goods were given by using toponyms that indicated the place of origin the more precise, the closer the location was to the Alps. These geographical terms informed about specific visual and tactile qualities and were introduced together with other technical vocabulary via specialized merchants and spread via shops to customers of the upper echelons. Small-scale retailers and occasional dealers made use of less detailed descriptions that can also be found in the accounts of their clients which resembled the language used in informal correspondences. These channels could be activated to gain more detailed information and thanks to the wide-spread networks of migrant labourers, knowledge was exchanged with and via the Alps. This exchange of information appears, however, to have become less intense when migration patterns changed in the aftermath of the French Revolutionary Wars.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"458 2","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134906531","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Pawning and pawners in the industrial era: evidence from Sweden, 1870 to 1950","authors":"Sofia Murhem, Göran Ulväng","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2259273","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2259273","url":null,"abstract":"Many people, both the poor and from the middle-classes, depended on pawn-broking. We have used a unique material, the daily ledgers from a Swedish pawnshop in naval town Karlskrona, during a long period of time 1880-1950. We find that the number of loans in relation to population did decline, especially after 1910, but in no year was the value of the average loan less than that of a day's work for a day labourer, meaning that the average loans did not show signs of being the act of a very impoverished person. The main objects being pawned was clothes, and among them coats. Most of them were pawned in May, which would support an idea of seasonal pawning, rather than weekly pawning. A majority of the pawners consisted of military men and workers. Women made up a small part of the sample, between ten and twenty per cent. In general, workers pawned mostly clothes and shoes, but they also pawned rings. Likely, the national context does affect when shifts and changes occur. pawnbroking Sweden working class middle class.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"183 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136314853","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Middle-ranking household food acquisition: the impact of marketplaces on purchasing patterns and networks of supply in eighteenth-century Bristol and Boston","authors":"Catherine Ann Talbot","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2214053","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2214053","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47103455","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The great new shopping idea: introducing self-service retailing in the British Isles","authors":"K. Morrison","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2207861","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2207861","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42141421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Did eighteenth-century shopkeepers use newspapers to promote their goods? – A comparison of Manchester and Norwich 1765–1805","authors":"Dinah Reed","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2168847","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2168847","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-02-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48673006","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Review of Kaufmann’s: that family that built Pittsburgh’s famed department store <b>Review of Kaufmann’s: that family that built Pittsburgh’s famed department store</b> , by Marylynne Pitz and Laura Malt Schneiderman, Pittsburgh, University of Pittsburgh Press, 2022, 280 pp., Cloth Price $26.95, Paper price $17.00, ISBN: 0822947455","authors":"Sarah Elvins","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2259271","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2259271","url":null,"abstract":"\"Review of Kaufmann’s: that family that built Pittsburgh’s famed department store.\" History of Retailing and Consumption, ahead-of-print(ahead-of-print), pp. 1–2","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135798447","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Jewish consumer cultures in nineteenth and twentieth-century Europe and North America <b>Jewish consumer cultures in nineteenth and twentieth-century Europe and North America</b> , edited by Paul Lerner, et al., Cham, Palgrave Macmillan, 2022, XII, 310 pp., $129.99 (Cloth), $129.99 (Paper), ISBN: 978-3-030-88960-9","authors":"Laura Yares","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2023.2259270","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2023.2259270","url":null,"abstract":"\"Jewish consumer cultures in nineteenth and twentieth-century Europe and North America.\" History of Retailing and Consumption, ahead-of-print(ahead-of-print), pp. 1–2","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"15 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135798460","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}