Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe最新文献

{"title":"List of Contributors","authors":"","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-011","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-011","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"239 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122570293","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Everything in its Right Place?","authors":"B. Gissibl","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-010","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-010","url":null,"abstract":"Have leisure times? Read everything in its right place writer by Why? A best seller publication in the world with excellent worth and material is combined with intriguing words. Where? Merely right here, in this site you can review online. Want download? Of course readily available, download them likewise right here. Available data are as word, ppt, txt, kindle, pdf, rar, and zip. Searching for competent reading resources? We have everything in its right place to review, not only read, however also download them and even review online. Locate this great book writtern by now, simply here, yeah only here. Obtain the reports in the kinds of txt, zip, kindle, word, ppt, pdf, as well as rar. Again, never miss out on to read online and also download this publication in our site below. Click the web link. Our goal is always to offer you an assortment of cost-free ebooks too as aid resolve your troubles. We have got a considerable collection of totally free of expense Book for people from every single stroll of life. We have got tried our finest to gather a sizable library of preferred cost-free as well as paid files. GO TO THE TECHNICAL WRITING FOR AN EXPANDED TYPE OF THIS EVERYTHING IN ITS RIGHT PLACE, ALONG WITH A CORRECTLY FORMATTED VERSION OF THE INSTANCE MANUAL PAGE ABOVE.","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"258 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122809733","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Emergence of a Polish National Dress and Its Perception","authors":"Beata Biedrońska-Słota, M. Molenda","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-007","url":null,"abstract":": This article examines the evolution of an early modern Polish national dress called the kontusz ensemble. It differed from the fashion of the West both in cut and look. The garment was mostly worn by the Polish nobility and was one of the distinguishing features of this estate and its ideology. It started forming in the sixteenth century, when knighthood was gradually abandoned and eventually replaced by an estate of landowners mainly involved in agriculture. These noblemen identified with the Sarmatian tradition and tried to prove their Sarmatian origins. Throughout the early modern period this garment was subject to modifications, but it retained its essential Eastern form.","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"43 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115997880","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Jewish Travelers in Early Modern Italy: Visible and Invisible Resistance to the Jewish Badge","authors":"Flora Cassen","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-005","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"27 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115606965","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Contents Contents","authors":"Niklaus Mannhart","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-toc","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-toc","url":null,"abstract":"National Treasury Strategic Plan is compiled with the latest available information from departmental and other sources. Some of this information is unaudited or subject to revision.","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126889018","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Shawls and Sable Furs: How to Be a Boyar under the Phanariot Regime (1710–1821)","authors":"Constanța Vintilă-Ghițulescu","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-008","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-008","url":null,"abstract":": Wallachia and Moldavia, as peripheries of the Ottoman Empire, were ruled by Phanariot princes throughout the eighteenth century. These “ Greeks ” were dragomans at the sultan ’ s court or high dignitaries of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Constantinople and governed the two Danubian Principalities in the name of the sultan. My article examines how the local nobility, the Orthodox elite of the countries, reacted and adapted to the Oriental ways of the Phanariot courts. It reveals how the local elites adhered to the Phanariot political regimes and tacitly adopted the new fashions and lifestyles, which would eventually be instrumental in the fashioning of their identity. The available primary sources consist of dowry lists, probate inventories, sumptuary laws, and visual documents (engravings and prints published in travelogues, paintings, and costume books), and they show in great detail the process of self-fashioning and self-display through clothes and costumes. Ottoman region","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"153 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121497794","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Frontmatter","authors":"","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-fm","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-fm","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"39 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131585217","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Imperial Fashions: Cashmere Shawls between Istanbul, Paris, and Milan (Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries)","authors":"G. Calvi","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-009","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-009","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"46 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129917850","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"From Noble Dress to Jewish Attire: Jewish Appearances in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Holy Roman Empire","authors":"Cornelia Aust","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-006","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the different styles of attire that had emerged by the eighteenth century among Jews in Poland and German-speaking lands. It argues that Jews in both regions developed their attire from older styles of dress that had fallen out of fashion among German burghers and Polish noblemen, respectively. Nevertheless, the distinguishability of Jews and Christians and distinctions among Jews according to social status, gender, and geographic origin were never clear-cut issues. Picturing a Hasidic Jew in Jerusalem or New York today, with a long black coat, a silk or satin caftan on Sabbath, and a black (fur) hat, many believe that this or similar attire has been the typical dress of (East European) Jews throughout time. However, dress and appearance have always undergone continual change and are a rather fluid marker of identity and belonging. Though Jewish law traditionally prescribes that Jews be distinguishable from their non-Jewish neighbors, and Christian and Jewish authorities have since the thirteenth century explicitly stipulated distinctive dress, such normative prescriptions do not allow for the conclusion that Jewish men and women have always been recognizable by their dress. Likewise, the fact that Jews were sometimes forced to wear distinctive signs does not mean that they were otherwise invisible as Jews or could pass as Christians when not wearing a discriminatory sign. Nevertheless, by the end of the eighteenth century there seems to have been a clear sense of a “Jewish attire”. 1 On today’s Hasidic dress see: Eric Silverman: A Cultural History of Jewish Dress. London 2013, 112–131. 2 On discriminatory signs in late medieval Italy see: Flora Cassen: Marking the Jews in Renaissance Italy. Politics, Religion, and the Power of Symbols. Cambridge 2017. For passing as a non-Jew see for a modern example: Kerry Wallach: Passing Illusions. Jewish Visibility in Weimar Germany. Ann Arbor 2017. Open Access. ©2019 Cornelia Aust, published by De Gruyter. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-006 In this article, I trace some developments concerning the dress and appearance of Jews, mostly men, of the early modern period in German-speaking lands, with a particular emphasis on Fürth (near Nuremberg) in Middle Franconia and Frankfurt am Main, and compare them with similar developments in early modern Poland. I ask how and when such a general term like “Jewish attire” emerged and what it meant for those who wore so-called “Jewish attire” or “Jewish dress”. Did they even conceive it as “Jewish dress”? Where and when did visual difference play a particular role? Looking at such different sources as sumptuary laws, inventories, “ethnographic” descriptions, and costume books, I sketch out a highly complex picture in which perceived differences intersected, not only between Jews and Christians, but also among Jews themselves, conc","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"90 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114456459","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"“He knows them by their dress”: Dress and Otherness in Early Modern Spain","authors":"Thomas Weller","doi":"10.1515/9783110635942-004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942-004","url":null,"abstract":": In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries people perceived themselves as members of particular ethnic groups and considered dress to be an important marker of, alternatively, similarity or otherness. Whereas the construction of self and other in literary texts and costume books has been widely discussed, relatively little is known about the relevance of “ national ” dress in social practice. Against this backdrop, this article discusses the extent to which people in early modern Spain and Spanish America were able to recognize foreigners and ethnoreligious others by the way they dressed. Focusing on two groups, moriscos (Muslims converted to Christianity) within the Spanish realms and foreign Protestants, it demon-strates how a person ’ s outward appearance could reveal, but also conceal, his or her origin. Dress served as an important marker of ethnic and religious difference, but it always remained an ambiguous signifier.","PeriodicalId":131345,"journal":{"name":"Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114861674","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}