{"title":"Inheritance and Innovation of Folk Textile Mending Techniques under the Traditional Concept of Cherishing Things","authors":"Xin Wu, Yu-chien Shen","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.6467","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.6467","url":null,"abstract":"Economised, thorough and skilful utilisation with the concept of cherishing things as its core thought is the basic design concept of traditional creation activities, implying profound philosophical thinking and life philosophy. This article, based on a theoretical interpretation of the traditional concept of cherishing things and combining methods including documents, material objects, manual restoration, etc., firstly expounds the influence and meaning of traditional Chinese folk textile mending in carrying out the concept of cherishing things in the contemporary era; secondly, it focuses on summarising the origin and development of the textile mending industry, pointing out the application prospects of hand darning techniques in nowadays market; and finally, via interpreting the comprehensive design of materials technology, pro-phase protection of preventive mending “smart creation” mode innovation of textiles, etc., this study specifically analyses the inheritance and innovation of folk textile mending techniques, so as to provide references for relevant industries and handicraft enthusiasts in the future.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-02-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79924408","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pengpeng Cheng, Jianping Wang, Xianyi Zeng, P. Bruniaux, Daoling Chen
{"title":"Intelligent Prediction Model of the Thermal and Moisture Comfort of the Skin-Tight Garment","authors":"Pengpeng Cheng, Jianping Wang, Xianyi Zeng, P. Bruniaux, Daoling Chen","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.6461","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.6461","url":null,"abstract":"In order to improve the efficiency and accuracy of predicting the thermal and moisture comfort of skin-tight clothing (also called skin-tight underwear), principal component analysis(PCA) is used to reduce the dimensions of related variables and eliminate the multicollinearity relationship among variables. Then, the optimized variables are used as the input parameters of the coupled intelligent model of the genetic algorithm (GA) and back propagation (BP) neural network, and the thermal and moisture comfort of different tights (tight tops and tight trousers) under different sports conditions is analysed. At the same time, in order to verify the superiority of the genetic algorithm and BP neural network intelligent model, the prediction results of GA-BP, PCA-BP and BP are compared with this model. The results show that principal component analysis (PCA) improves the accuracy and adaptability of the GA-BP neural network in predicting thermal and humidity comfort. The forecasting effect of the PCA-GA-BP neural network is obviously better than that of the GA-BP, PCA-BP, BP model, which can accurately predict the thermal and moisture comfort of tight-fitting sportswear. The model has better forecasting accuracy and a simpler structure.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"6 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-02-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88794407","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ateeq ur Rehman, A. Rasheed, Zafar Javed, M. Naeem, M. Ramzan, M. Karahan
{"title":"Geometrical Model to Determine Sewing Thread Consumption for Stitch Class 406","authors":"Ateeq ur Rehman, A. Rasheed, Zafar Javed, M. Naeem, M. Ramzan, M. Karahan","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2726","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2726","url":null,"abstract":"This study aimed at developing a geometrical model for predicting the sewing thread consumption of stitch class 406. Stitch class 400 is a multi-thread chain stitch which consumes a less amount of thread as compared with stitch class 500 but more thread as compared with stitch class 300. Sewing thread calculation plays a significant role in determining the exact amount of thread for completing a garment and predicting the right quantity of thread for bulk production. The geometrical model developed was used for predicting sewing thread consumption by using different factors like stitch density (8 and 12 SPI), material thickness (2, 4 and 6 layers of fabric), and type of material (denim, knitted and fleece). The model was validated with a total of 18 samples sewn with different kinds of fabric, SPI, and material thickness. It was concluded that the model could predict sewing thread consumption with more than 97.18% accuracy.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"13 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74113506","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Repon, T. Islam, Mahbubur Rahman, A. Malek, Mohammad Abdul Jalili
{"title":"Characterisation of CVC Yarn with Different Drafting Ratios in Vortex Spinning","authors":"M. Repon, T. Islam, Mahbubur Rahman, A. Malek, Mohammad Abdul Jalili","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2723","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2723","url":null,"abstract":"This study focuses on the impacts of the draft on the characteristics of MVS produced CVC blended yarn. The output of a finisher drawn sliver with a linear density of 3.54 ktex was converted into yarns of 18.45 tex (32 s/1 Ne) with the help of two separate delivery speeds: 350 and 410 m/min when possessing all constant spinning parameters. The properties of the yarn such as yarn anomaly, imperfections, tensile behaviour, and hairiness were investigated. The significance of independent variables and their relations with the physico-mechanical characteristics of CVC yarn was examined using two-way ANOVA at a 95% level of confidence.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"15 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85243953","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Rana Faizan Gul, Dunnan Liu, K. Jamil, Zahid Hussain, Fazal Hussain Awan, Aliya Anwar, G. Qin
{"title":"Causal Relationship of Market Orientation and Customer-Based Performance of Fashion Apparel Brands","authors":"Rana Faizan Gul, Dunnan Liu, K. Jamil, Zahid Hussain, Fazal Hussain Awan, Aliya Anwar, G. Qin","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2716","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2716","url":null,"abstract":"This study was conducted to determine the impact of market orientation on the consumer-based performance of fashion apparel brands. The study also reveals the moderating effect of employee orientation on market orientation and consumer-based performance. The sample of 270 respondents of this study consists of managerial staff who have decisive power with regard to apparel brands in Pakistan . The findings of this study express that all three dimensions of market orientation have a significant and positive impact on the consumer-based performance of fashion apparel brands. Furthermore, the study finds no moderation between customer orientation and consumer-based performance, while for the remaining two dimensions, there is a positive moderation. The management of fashion apparel firms must give considerable importance to market orientation to enhance overall consumer-based performance. This study contributes valuable literature because it focuses on the fashion apparel industry, which is most important for very nearly everyone in the present era.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"207 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73772399","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Study of Parameters Influencing the Production and Improvement of the Launch System in a Production Department: Case Study in the Clothing Industry in Tunisia","authors":"Lakhal Amira, Sejri Néjib","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2715","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2715","url":null,"abstract":"This study was carried out in a clothing company to determine the parameters that influence the decline in production. The results showed that the parameter “Machine failures” had a 34.6% effect on production, and “lack of versatility” 19.7%, while the parameter “heavy launch” had an effect of 17.1%, “lack of supplies” 9%, touch-ups 3%, and “lack of cut parts” 2%. Indeed, the application of lean and six sigma tools and especially the D.M.A.I.C and TPM methods are two tools that improve efficiency and productivity in a production workshop. Thus, a grid was developed to monitor and maintain the effectiveness of improvement actions and for the continuity of the spirit of improvement within the production department without forgetting that teamwork makes it possible to improve the result.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"19 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77769715","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Influence of Temperature on the Properties of Cellulose Iβ based on Molecular Dynamics Simulations","authors":"Shuang Huang, Xin Wu, Peixing Li","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2719","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2719","url":null,"abstract":"Natural plants, such as cotton and linen, are rich in cellulose Iβ. The properties of cellulose Iβ under different temperatures was studied using molecular dynamics simulations. Firstly, the crystal of cellulose Iβ was built. To verify the model, the X-ray fibre diffraction and thermal expansion coefficients were calculated, which were found to agree with experimental results. Then the Mulliken population of the bonds were computed and the movement of the centre chain and hydrogen bonds studied over the range 300-550 K using a PCFF force field. The results of the Mulliken population reveal the three steps of pyrolysis. The higher the temperature is, the more intensely the movement of the centre chain is. However, the impact of temperature on the movement of the centre chain is not obvious. From 300 K to 550 K, the total number of hydrogen bonds decreased by only 20%. Moreocer, the rupture of intrachain hydrogen bonds and the formation of interchain hydrogen bonds at 400 K ~ 450 K temperature occurred.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91494588","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effect of Industrial Washing and Laundering on the Colour Values of Knitted Denim","authors":"S. Mezarcıöz","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2725","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2725","url":null,"abstract":"One of the most distinctive features of denim is that the warp yarn is dyed with indigo dye and the weft yarns are not dyed, i.e. white. Although warp yarns dyed with indigo dye are woven with different woven fabric weaves, classical denim fabrics weave are produced with 3/1 Z twill weave. The search for new products in denim has led businesses to produce denim-looking knitted fabrics. Denim-looking knitted garments are subjected to industrial washing at the production phase and repetitive household washing processes in daily life. Repeated washing and drying processes cause changes that can affect user satisfaction in terms of losing the colour of the fabric. Therefore, in this study, the colour values of knitted denim fabrics produced as an alternative to denim fabrics manufactured by traditional methods after various industrial (rinse, enzyme and stone washing) and home washes (5, 10, 20 times) were examined. For this, the CIELab colour system was taken as the basis for colour analysis on a spectrophotometer device. As a result of the washing processes performed on each fabric sample (household washing and rinse, enzyme, stone washing applications), it was observed that there were differences in colour values depending on the fibre type, loop yarn length, fabric construction and washing process.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"7 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84007538","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Z. Czaplicki, Edyta Matyjas-Zgondek, S. Strzelecki
{"title":"Scouring of Sheep Wool Using an Acoustic Ultrasound Wave","authors":"Z. Czaplicki, Edyta Matyjas-Zgondek, S. Strzelecki","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2721","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2721","url":null,"abstract":"The paper describes a method of scouring sheep wool using ultrasound.The inspiration to start work on the use of ultrasound in the process of scouring sheep wool was positive results that had already been achieved for alpaca wool. Due to the fact that sheep wool has many more impurites than alpaca wool, the scouring process is divided into two stages. The first involves the removal of faeces from the wool, which may be up to about 35% of the impurities of sheep wool, while the second stage involves the scouring cycle, wherein the remaining impurities are removed. The ultrasonic scouring process uses domestic merino wool heavily clad, particularly, by faeces. In this study, detergent solutions, alkali soap and sodium carbonate were used. The scouring of wool was carried out with a special apparatus equipped with an ultrasonic generator, at a frequency of 40 kHz. To determine the optimal conditions for scouring sheep wool that could affect the amount of impurities removed, the following parameters were examined: the effect of the scouring time, the concentration of detergents, and the scouring bath ratio. The study resulted in achieving optimal scouring parameters that ensured a satisfactory level of the removal of wool impurities.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"3 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90018326","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Numerical Investigation of the Air Gap Distribution of Jackets with Different Fits and its Influence on Human Temperature","authors":"M. Awais, S. Krzywinski, Y. Kyosev","doi":"10.5604/01.3001.0015.2727","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2727","url":null,"abstract":"The air gaps underneath clothing have a great influence on the thermal regulation of the human body. The distribution of the air gaps depends on the shape of the human body as well as on clothing style, fit, and deformation properties. This paper reports on the influence of clothing fit on thermophysiological parameters of the human body through thermal simulation. Four different fits of jacket and a test person were considered for the investigation and for simulation purposes. The results of the simulation concluded that different thermal regulations of the human body were exhibited for different fits of the jacket, which is due to distinct air gaps between the human body and clothing for each fit of the jacket. This research work presents a fast method to predict the influence of clothing fit on thermal comfort, which is usually studied by a time-consuming, laborious method – the wear trial.\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"26 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88188921","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}